Hiking the Dolomites: Hut to Hut in South Tyrol, Italy
Sierra Club Outings Trip | International
Highlights
- Hike amid stunning mountains
- Enjoy Italian and Tyrolean cuisine
- Stay three nights in remote mountain huts
Includes
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All lodging and meals
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Cable cars and on-trip transportation
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All gratuities
Overview
The Trip
Once known as the Pale Mountains, the Dolomites are famous for their surreal beauty, with rugged white, gray, and pink peaks rising abruptly from rolling green valleys. Geologically they have strong contrasts, being composed of both dolomitic limestone and volcanic formations. The cultural heritage of the area also has contrasts; with Italian, Ladin, and Tyrolean influences. In fact, most villages and towns have three names, in Italian, German, and Ladin. The Ladins were in the region before Roman time and were never totally absorbed by Roman culture.
Thousands of years of human occupation has altered the land, diminishing the forest cover but creating expansive upland meadows used as summer pastures
The Trip
Once known as the Pale Mountains, the Dolomites are famous for their surreal beauty, with rugged white, gray, and pink peaks rising abruptly from rolling green valleys. Geologically they have strong contrasts, being composed of both dolomitic limestone and volcanic formations. The cultural heritage of the area also has contrasts; with Italian, Ladin, and Tyrolean influences. In fact, most villages and towns have three names, in Italian, German, and Ladin. The Ladins were in the region before Roman time and were never totally absorbed by Roman culture.
Thousands of years of human occupation has altered the land, diminishing the forest cover but creating expansive upland meadows used as summer pastures. We will be hiking in three distinct areas, set aside as human-occupied Nature Parks to preserve both natural beauty and traditional cultural mountain landscapes: Naturpark Schlern-Rosengarten (Sciliar-Catinaccio), Naturpark Puez-Geisler (Puez-Odle), and Naturpark Fanes-Sennes-Prags (Fanes-Sennes-Braies). On three nights we will stay in mountain huts that are sited in dramatic locations at the foot of peaks or deep in remote valleys.
Carrying only our day packs (taxis will transport our luggage when necessary), we’ll be free to hike and enjoy the scenery and villages of this captivating and historical area. As a hut-to-hut trip, we can spend more time up high in the craggy mountains than on most day-hike trips. We’ll descend into a mountain resort village midway through the trip in order to reunite with our luggage and enjoy a comfortable stay at a 4-star hotel before setting out for our next hut. Our experiences throughout the trip will be made extra special by the welcoming and friendly nature of the people of this relatively remote and beautiful region of Italy.
Our adventure will entail moderate to strenuous hikes that have some extended uphill and downhill sections. Most days we will carry everything we need with us, but that doesn’t mean heavy packs. The huts provide beds, blankets, showers, and hot meals, so besides standard day hike gear, we only need a sleep sheet and toiletries.
Itinerary
Day 1: Meet this afternoon at our hotel in downtown Bolzano (Bozen), the capital city of South Tyrol, a province of northern Italy. Bolzano's arcaded, pedestrian main street dates from 1180. Arrive early and you can visit the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology (not included) and see its fascinating exhibit about Ötzi, the Iceman, whose 5,300-year-old frozen body was discovered not far from here in 1991. After meeting, and a brief orientation, we’ll walk to a nearby restaurant for a traditional Tyrolean dinner
Day 1: Meet this afternoon at our hotel in downtown Bolzano (Bozen), the capital city of South Tyrol, a province of northern Italy. Bolzano's arcaded, pedestrian main street dates from 1180. Arrive early and you can visit the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology (not included) and see its fascinating exhibit about Ötzi, the Iceman, whose 5,300-year-old frozen body was discovered not far from here in 1991. After meeting, and a brief orientation, we’ll walk to a nearby restaurant for a traditional Tyrolean dinner.
Day 2: Taxis will take us to our trailhead in Alpe Siusi, the largest alp in Europe. We’ll make our way gradually upslope, surrounded by miles of rolling green meadows with views of the Schlern massif looming above. After stopping for a picnic lunch we’ll proceed much more steeply up the switchback trail to a mountain pass where the red roof our first mountain hut (rifugio in Italian) springs into welcomed view. We arrive at our rifugio after a short traversing descent. No access to luggage tonight. 5 miles; up 2,000 feet, down 200 feet.
Day 3: We continue our walk east, passing through a mix of alps and the rocky mountain slopes. Our start is easy, with open terrain on both sides as we contour along the long side of Sasso Piatto (Dish Rock). After a while we slowly work our way higher up the mountain until we finally top a small pass; in the saddle of which is our new rifugio. A high hill is on the right, and the steep slopes of Sasso Piatto are on the left. The rifugio has an excellent restaurant. Overnight in the rifugio. No access to luggage tonight. 8 miles; up 1,000 feet, down 1,000 feet.
Day 4: Taxis will take us to Passo Gardena and a lift up onto the slopes of Gran Cir, in the Puez-Odle Nature Park. We begin hiking at the top of the lift, gently descending until we intersect the Alta Via 2—a famous north/south trekking route that runs the length of the Dolomites. Turning onto the Alta Via, we’ll ascend steeply to a couple of high passes, and then across a broad upland plain below Sas Ciampac, with views down into the glacial valley on the other side of divide. Eventually we’ll turn off the Alta Via, looping back down a descending traverse and steep switchbacks along the southern flank of the hulking peak, Sassongher. There is a lift along the way that could save us from some of the downhill descent into Corvara, where our luggage will await us at the hotel. 8.5 miles; up 1,200 feet, down 3,700 feet.
Day 5: Our day begins with another taxi shuttle, winding up a narrow country road to our trailhead. After a short distance, we begin our climb steeply up a scree-covered slope. The footing is loose, but the reward is great as we eventually emerge onto a lunar-like landscape of barren limestone stretching for miles in all directions. We are now in the middle of the Fanes-Sennes Natural Park. This is a very empty stretch, so we'll likely be alone as we walk the now gentler path through the open valley. We know we've reached our destination when we make a last steep but short descent to the rifugio. Overnight at the rifugio and no access to luggage. 6 miles; up 3,000 feet, down 1,800 feet.
Day 6: Our return route is on a less rocky path, a portion of which is part of the Alta Via 1 route, the other main north/south trekking route of the Dolomites. Our start is crossing the shallow valley, looking for firm ground on the sometimes boggy soil. Then a half mile of steep but good trail takes us up to a plateau, which we then walk along. With ups and downs, eventually we come to the edge of the plateau and descend a steep, switchbacking wooded trail to our lunch stop at a hut where the trail meets the highway. Meeting the taxi, which already has our luggage, we ride all the way back into Bolzano, arriving in time to check into our hotel, clean up, and enjoy a farewell dinner. 7 miles; up 1,100 feet, down 2,300 feet.
Day 7: The trip ends after breakfast. Ciao!
Logistics
Getting There
The trip starts and ends in Bolzano, in northeastern Italy. Bolzano is on the main train route north to Germany. If you arrive at either Milan or Venice airports, you can take the train to Verona (a great place to visit for a day or two) and change for Bolzano. There is also train service from Munich, another fine place to spend a few days getting over jet lag before the trip starts. Allow about 4 hours for the journey from either the Milan or Venice airports and add an extra 30 minutes if you arrive in Munich
Getting There
The trip starts and ends in Bolzano, in northeastern Italy. Bolzano is on the main train route north to Germany. If you arrive at either Milan or Venice airports, you can take the train to Verona (a great place to visit for a day or two) and change for Bolzano. There is also train service from Munich, another fine place to spend a few days getting over jet lag before the trip starts. Allow about 4 hours for the journey from either the Milan or Venice airports and add an extra 30 minutes if you arrive in Munich.
Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.
Accommodations and Food
In Bolzano and Corvara we will be staying at four-star hotels with double-occupancy rooms. Solo travelers will be assigned a roommate of the same gender. Single supplements are usually available at additional cost; check with the leader. Otherwise we stay at mountain huts, called rifugi in Italian (singular is rifugio). These have dorm rooms with bunk beds, usually 4 to 16 persons per room. Toilets and showers are down the hall. The attached dining room is actually just like a restaurant, with a menu to order from, including local specialties such as pasta, polenta, and stews.
We’ll eat breakfasts and most dinners at our lodgings. In Bolzano, the hotel does not serve dinner, so we’ll eat at a nearby restaurant. The group eats together as a whole. Breakfasts vary from simple continental buffets of breads and coffee, to hearty German selections featuring cheese, cold meats, yogurt, and fruit. At the hotels in the towns, eggs also are usually available, though not always. Rifugi breakfasts are very simple, usually only breads, butter, jam, and coffee.
On some days we will stop at huts along the way for lunch. The huts serve sandwiches, soups, pastas, polenta, and stews. On other days, we will carry our lunches and have a group picnic, ideally on the top of a mountain ridge or some other scenic spot. Mostly these will be sack lunches ordered the night before at the rifugio and will typically be a sandwich (ham & cheese or just cheese) a piece of fruit, and a treat.
For our dinners in Bolzano we will be ordering a la carte from the standard menu. Local specialties include pasta or polenta dishes, meats (typically veal, pork, fish, or chicken), and tasty desserts such as tiramisu. In the rifugi our dinners will be very similar to lunches as described above, though often with the addition of a salad. While vegetarian meals are not the norm in this area, our hosts are willing to make a special effort to accommodate guests. Usually omelets, cheese dishes, vegetable soup, risotto with mushrooms, or pasta with tomato sauce are available.
Trip Difficulty
This is a moderate to strenuous hiking adventure with some short, but challenging, sections. We will be hiking well into the mountains above tree line. It is intended for experienced hikers who are able to walk five to seven hours every day. Our maximum daily hiking distance will be 8.5 miles, with more than 3,000 feet of elevation gain and/or loss on some days. Our terrain includes pastoral rolling hills, broad meadows, some steep ascents and descents, a couple of areas of scree, and rocky paths, where we might encounter patches of snow even in mid-summer. Valley elevations are 4,000-5,000 feet and hikes will normally take us no higher than 9,000 feet.
Everyone should plan on carrying day packs with water, rain gear (tops and bottoms), a warm layer, toiletries, sleep sack (a single sheet sewn into a sleeping bag shape), and personal items, plus room for lunch supplies. Expected daily distances and elevation gains are listed in the itinerary above, but may have to be changed depending on group abilities, weather, lift closures, etc. The distances in the itinerary include, where applicable, the occasional use of cable cars to avoid the steeper and less interesting sections of trail.
The trip leader recommends that you prepare for this outing by taking regular day hikes at altitudes similar to the ones we will encounter, with your day pack and two liters of water. We will be hiking at a moderate pace, just over 2 miles per hour on level terrain and slightly slower going up hill, and taking short water breaks, but seldom long rest periods, except at the top of steep passes and while waiting for lifts. At a minimum, you should be hiking 4-5 miles 3 times per week in your boots with a weighted pack. Increase one of the days up to 8 miles with elevation gain/loss of at least 1,000 feet in order to be ready for our longer hikes. You should include hill- or stair-climbing with a pack in your regular exercise routine. The trip leader also advises adding resistance training (weights or machines) for your legs and back.
Equipment and Clothing
No special equipment is required. You will need the gear you normally use on day hikes. Medium-weight broken-in boots are the most important item. Besides that, bring a day-pack with your hiking essentials, including water, rain-gear, and something to keep you warm should the weather turn unexpectedly. The leader will provide a more detailed list later. Be sure you have enough extra room for your share of the picnic lunches.
It is important to have good-quality equipment in good condition, including boots, rain gear (tops and bottoms), day packs with rain covers, non-cotton clothing, and waterproof hats, and the willingness to hike with them every day. Remember, there is no such thing as bad weather, just wrong clothing. If one person doesn’t bring adequate protective clothing, it can significantly impact the whole group and the hiking plan for the day. Hiking poles are highly recommended and well-broken-in yet sound boots are an absolute necessity.
Because we use taxi services for some of our moves, you are limited to one bag of 40 pounds or less. Soft-sided luggage, such as a duffel, is strongly preferred: it’s easier to fit into the taxis -- and European vehicles are smaller than those in the U.S. Everyone should also be prepared to carry his or her own luggage up steep and possibly narrow stairs.
References
Maps:
- Kompass Map nos. 616; available in Bolzano upon arrival or online from http://www.stanfords.co.uk/kompass
Books:
- Price, Gillian, Walking in the Dolomites.
- The Lonely Planet Guide to Walking in Italy.
- Goldsmith, James and Anne, The Dolomites Of Italy, A Travel Guide. (Out of print, but worth the effort if you can find a used copy).
Websites:
- http://www.sudtirol.com/
- http://www.valgardena.it/
- http://www.altabadia.org/
- http://www.dolomiti.org/
Conservation
The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward understanding environmentally parallel concerns at home and abroad.
This mountainous region has been a center of human activity for thousands of years, since the days when hunters established seasonal camps in the valleys. Petroglyphs that are 20,000 years old are to be found nearby. Ötzi the Iceman, a 5,300-year-old man frozen in a glacier, was found here along the Austrian border. Beginning in the middle ages, early land managers instituted programs to protect grazing and woodcutting rights. Today, more and more tourists are attracted to this beautiful area, both in summer and during the ski season, and the Italian government is working to preserve the area and develop tourism. The impact of tourism is readily visible and the local concept of wilderness is very different than our own. We hope to have a local naturalist accompany us on one day, but cannot guarantee it because few of the available naturalists speak English.
Evacuation and Travel Insurance
The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.
Staff
Important Notes
- Carbon Offsets
- Carpooling
- Electronic Billing and Forms
- Electronic Devices
- Equipment
- Essential Eligibility Criteria
- How to Apply for a Trip
- Leader Gratuities
- Medical Issues
- Non-discrimination Statement
- Participant Agreement
- Seller of Travel Disclosure
- Single Supplements
- Terms and Conditions
- Travel Insurance
- Trip Feedback
- Trip Price
- Wilderness Manners