Bears of Katmai: A Backpacking Adventure, Alaska
Sierra Club Outings Trip | Backpack
Highlights
- Watch grizzly bears fish for salmon at Brooks Falls
- Backpack in the volcanic Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes
- Traverse a geologic wonderland of volcanic ash and rock
Includes
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Round-trip flights from King Salmon to Brooks Camp
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Campground fees, all meals and snacks
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Shuttle to and from the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes
Overview
The Trip
In a state known for its superlatives, Katmai National Park stands alone. It is home to the largest protected grizzly bear population in the world, the spawning ground of literally millions of salmon, and the location of one of the largest volcanic eruptions in modern times. But mostly, Katmai is known for its bears. Because of the abundance of food and the management of the rangers, the bears in Katmai Park are uniquely uninterested in humans and will allow people to approach (and photograph) much more closely than bears elsewhere. The Park Service has set up a system of walkways and platforms to allow us to safely watch these magnificent creatures feeding on salmon as they make their way up and over Brooks Falls
The Trip
In a state known for its superlatives, Katmai National Park stands alone. It is home to the largest protected grizzly bear population in the world, the spawning ground of literally millions of salmon, and the location of one of the largest volcanic eruptions in modern times. But mostly, Katmai is known for its bears. Because of the abundance of food and the management of the rangers, the bears in Katmai Park are uniquely uninterested in humans and will allow people to approach (and photograph) much more closely than bears elsewhere. The Park Service has set up a system of walkways and platforms to allow us to safely watch these magnificent creatures feeding on salmon as they make their way up and over Brooks Falls.
But there is more to Katmai than bear watching. We will travel into the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes to see the park in a much different setting. The Valley was created in 1912 by one of the greatest volcanic eruptions in recorded history. Ash flowing from the volcano buried the Ukak River valley up to 700 feet deep, creating a large plain that is now the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, a 300-square-mile moonscape of richly colored yellow, red, and tan ash. The valley no longer has “ten thousand smokes,” created by steam from the cooling lava, but it remains a geologic wonderland, with active fumaroles amid immense ash flows, active glaciers, and flowing rivers. A major attraction to the area is the plug dome of Novarupta volcano, which we will visit.
Itinerary
Day 1: Your trip begins and ends in King Salmon, but since all flights to King Salmon originate in Anchorage we will try to coordinate our travel so that we fly together from Anchorage to King Salmon, and back to Anchorage. From King Salmon we take a float plane to Brooks Camp in Katmai National Park. The flights to/from King Salmon and Brooks Camp are included in the trip price and will be arranged by the trip leaders. At Brooks Camp we’ll stay in a NPS campground and have the opportunity for a short hike to Brooks Falls to get our first look at the bears fishing for salmon
Day 1: Your trip begins and ends in King Salmon, but since all flights to King Salmon originate in Anchorage we will try to coordinate our travel so that we fly together from Anchorage to King Salmon, and back to Anchorage. From King Salmon we take a float plane to Brooks Camp in Katmai National Park. The flights to/from King Salmon and Brooks Camp are included in the trip price and will be arranged by the trip leaders. At Brooks Camp we’ll stay in a NPS campground and have the opportunity for a short hike to Brooks Falls to get our first look at the bears fishing for salmon.
Days 2-7: Our morning starts with a shuttle to the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes where we begin our seven-day backpack trip. We plan to backpack at a moderate pace, covering no more than six miles per day. There are no trails in this wilderness area. We will have the freedom to choose our own route! Our current plan calls for a trip of no more than 30 miles, going along the Lethe River heading toward the lakes at the base of Mt. Mageik. We will visit the Novarupta volcano, hike alongside the Knife Creek Glaciers, and have great views of Mt. Katmai (elevation 6,715 feet). Depending on the strength of our group and our final itinerary, we may have several layover days during the loop. Possible optional side trips include: summiting Broken Mountain, Trident Volcano, and exploring the areas around Mt. Juhle, Mt. Ikagluik, and the Ukak River.
Days 8-9: We return to Brooks Camp and stay in the NPS campground. Hot showers are available! We have another opportunity for extensive bear viewing and photography of grizzlies and their fishing activities at Brooks Falls. If the weather is clear, an optional day hike up Dumpling Mountain will provide us with great views of the surrounding area. Optional activities not included in the trip price: visiting a pre-historic housing site, fishing, and flightseeing trips of the area. Trip leaders will provide details.
Day 10: On our last day together, we will fly from Brooks Camp to King Salmon. From there you can plan to continue on to Anchorage and home.
Logistics
Getting There
Although our trip officially starts and ends in King Salmon, we are all going through Anchorage. You should plan on arriving in Anchorage at least one day early to allow for flight and baggage delays and to do some exploring. Two days early is better. There will be a pre-trip meeting on Thursday late afternoon in Anchorage. This is a good opportunity to meet the other trip participants, go over some logistics, and solve any last-minute gear challenges (e.g. rain gear).
Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip staff
Getting There
Although our trip officially starts and ends in King Salmon, we are all going through Anchorage. You should plan on arriving in Anchorage at least one day early to allow for flight and baggage delays and to do some exploring. Two days early is better. There will be a pre-trip meeting on Thursday late afternoon in Anchorage. This is a good opportunity to meet the other trip participants, go over some logistics, and solve any last-minute gear challenges (e.g. rain gear).
Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip staff.
Accommodations and Food
In Brooks Camp we will be staying at a National Park Service campground. The campground is surrounded by an electric fence that is meant to discourage any curious bears from interacting with campers. In addition, the campground has storage cabins for food and gear. While backpacking, we will store food in bear-proof containers and avoid bear trails. All meals and snacks are included in the trip fee, beginning with lunch on the first day and ending with lunch on the last day. As usual on Sierra Club outings, all members help with cooking and cleanup chores. Any special diet requirements should be discussed with the leaders well in advance to be sure they can be accommodated. Trip members and leaders will all share in carrying group food and commissary equipment.
Trip Difficulty
This trip is rated as moderate in difficulty. The elevation gain and loss generally will not be more than several hundred feet per day, though optional day hikes may involve more climbing. There are no trails in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, so our travel will be cross-country.
Please understand that the weather in Alaska is unpredictable. It may rain, it may be windy, and we may have to modify the following itinerary. In order to see such an extraordinary place, it is necessary to take some chances. Rain is likely at any time and the temperature can range from the 40s to the 70s.
Equipment and Clothing
The Sierra Club will provide stoves, cooking pots and utensils, cooking tent, first aid, repair kit, food, and an emergency satellite phone. Participants are expected to supply their own standard backpacking gear.
A complete equipment list will be sent to participants before the trip. Your backpack should weigh no more than 35 pounds without group food and gear. You will be expected to carry food in a bear-proof container along with a share of the group commissary equipment.
References
Maps:
- Trails Illustrated Map of Katmai National Park. It is waterproof and is available from Alaska Geographic (https://alaska-geographic.mybigcommerce.com/map-ti248-katmai-np-p/), Amazon.com, and many local outdoor stores.
Books:
- Bodeau, Jean, Katmai National Park and Preserve. Alaska Natural History Assn, 1995.
- Bohn, Dave, Rambles Through an Alaskan Wild: Katmai and the Valley of the Smokes. Capra Press, 1979.
- Pratt, Verna, Field Guide to Alaskan Wildflowers. Alaskakrafts Inc, 1990.
- Smith, Dave, Backcountry Bear Basics. Mountaineers Books, 2nd edition, 2006.
- Breiter, Matthias, The Bears of Katmai: Alaska’s Famous Brown Bears. Graphic Arts Books, 2000.
- McPhee, John, Coming into the Country, Farrar, Straus and Giroux; Reissue edition, 1991.
Conservation
The proposed Pebble Mine -- a large scale, open pit, strip mine -- would literally be on the doorstep of Katmai National Park. The mine threatens the salmon that are the underpinning of the Katmai ecosystem. The Environmental Protection Agency has warned that the mine could have devastating consequences for rivers and streams and wipe out habitat for fish. By visiting Katmai, we will have a better understanding of what is being threatened. The proponents of the mine point to the jobs that would be created. Our visit will support sustainable ecotourism jobs.
Participants may have conservation stories from home and will be invited to share hometown issues with the group.
Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.
Staff
Important Notes
- Carbon Offsets
- Carpooling
- Electronic Billing and Forms
- Electronic Devices
- Equipment
- Essential Eligibility Criteria
- How to Apply for a Trip
- Leader Gratuities
- Medical Issues
- Non-discrimination Statement
- Participant Agreement
- Seller of Travel Disclosure
- Single Supplements
- Terms and Conditions
- Travel Insurance
- Trip Feedback
- Trip Price
- Wilderness Manners