Cruising the Galápagos Islands Plus Cloud Forests and Cocoa Plantation, Ecuador

The Trip

"The natural history of these islands is eminently curious," wrote Charles Darwin of the Galápagos.

It is an apt description; from its unique landscapes to its comical birdlife, this volcanic archipelago has both puzzled and stunned its visitors for more than 400 years. Here animals live without fear of human beings and are very approachable, due to their isolation from natural predators, a condition created by the very processes of evolution that first stirred Darwin to speculation in 1835.

The Galapagos Islands are among the world’s foremost wildlife preserves, providing us with unique and amazing experiences. In fact, a full 50 percent of the species here are not found anywhere else in the world. Such creatures include the three-foot-long vegetarian marine iguana, which is the only known sea-feeding lizard on earth, and the Galápagos tortoise, which can grow to six feet in length, weigh 600 pounds, and live for 150 years. The archipelago also boasts Sally Lightfoot crabs, sea lions, lava lizards, and a prolific bird population that includes the magnificent frigate bird, Galápagos penguins, and the blue-footed booby, just to name a few.

Darwin, of course, was the archipelago's most famous visitor; his chapter on the Galápagos in "The Voyage of the Beagle" remains a classic, and is well worth reading. He made extensive collections of plants and animals and observations of their natural history. This gave him sufficient material to support more than a quarter century of research. Twenty-four years later, he published the classic "The Origin of Species," which shook the foundations of biological thought and led to profound changes in man's philosophy of nature. These are the very islands that inspired Charles Darwin in 1835. We will visit the Darwin Research Center.

The Galapagos—“the Enchanted Islands”—is a world-class destination! Darwin wasn't the only one to find inspiration in the Galapagos. During the whaling era, Herman Melville made landfall here, and he perpetuated the sailor's nickname: "the Enchanted Islands." The swirling fogs that surround the islands at certain times of year gave rise to the legend that these were floating islands.

Observe the dynamic landscape of this volcanic archipelago with its fascinating geologic features. Watch blue-footed boobies in a mating dance ritual. Witness frigate birds soaring just inches away. With our certified Galapagos Naturalist Guide, we can walk right through bird rookeries, observe the parting ritual of the albatross as it prepares to leave for its life at sea, watch the vegetarian marine iguana (the only known sea-feeding lizard on earth), photograph the Galapagos tortoise, and snorkel among the sea lions and penguins.

During our visit, we island-hoppers will have opportunities to do mild to moderate hikes to surreal lava flows and vista points, watch giant tortoises, explore tidal pools, snorkel, go birding, or hang out at the beach.

You will arrange your own international flight to Ecuador that will land in the coastal City of Guayaquil on the mainland. Here we will visit the sites in the city, the famous river walk and a cocoa plantation, before we transfer to the Galapagos Islands on a flight that is included in your trip price. Our return flight to the mainland after the Galapagos lands near the city of Quito high in the Andes Mountains. We travel directly from the airport. After several hours, we arrive in a magical cloud forest full of birds on the western slope of the Andes and we check into the Bellavista eco-lodge and forest reserve for the next several days. Here we will go on guided forest and birding walks and learn about the area's fascinating wildlife and history. We enjoy a final morning with the myriad hummingbirds that frequent the area before we travel and make a visit to the Equatorial Museum, situated directly on the “line.” After a fascinating tour we arrive at our modern hotel near downtown Quito. There is a great opportunity nearby to shop in a local artisan’s center before we enjoy our farewell dinner at one of Quito’s fine restaurants.

Our home in the Galápagos will be a comfortable live-aboard motor yacht. With our certified naturalist guide, we will explore the different islands, as well as visit the Charles Darwin Research Station on the island of Santa Cruz. While on the islands we’ll take mild to moderate hikes to scenic points past nesting birds, explore stark lava formations and tidal pools, and snorkel with sea lions, penguins, flightless cormorants, and tropical fish.

Day 1: Arrive in Guayaquil, a modern city and the major sea port of Ecuador. You will be met upon arrival and transferred to the hotel. As most flights arrive late in the day, we will not meet as a group this evening but the leader will greet you at the hotel.

Day 2: After breakfast and a short orientation meeting, we will have a brief city tour and some time to walk on the “Malecon”—the famous River Walk in Guayaquil. The final part of the day is a visit to a cocao plantation to see cacao trees and learn how real chocolate is made—and, of course, to taste it. We will return to our hotel to relax and enjoy a welcome dinner.

Day 3: On to the Galapagos Islands! The flight to and from the Galapagos Islands is included in the trip price. Tickets for this flight will be issued to you at the Guayaquil Airport before we leave for the islands. After our flight from Guayaquil to Isla Baltra, we will meet our Certified Galapagos Naturalist Guide at the airport. We will collect our luggage, and on the way to our boat we stop at a highland ranch and walk amount giant tortoises and then enjoy lunch. Our travels continue on to our floating home-sweet-home! We will board our comfortable motor yacht for the duration of our tour on these fascinating islands. Our lodgings while cruising around the islands will be double staterooms with private bathrooms. We'll feast on gourmet meals prepared by the dedicated staff on board our yacht.

Days 4-9: We will spend these days cruising and exploring the various islands in the southern route: The islands of Baltra, Santa Cruz, Floreana, San Cristobal, Espanola, Santa Fe Island, Plaza Sur Island, North Seymour, Bartholome, Santagio, Rabida, Santa Cruz, and back to Baltra. Depending on the schedule assigned to our boat by the Ecuador National Park Service, we may visit some but not all of these places:

El Chato Tortoise Reserve: El Chato is a reserve in the highlands of Santa Cruz, where giant tortoises can be observed in the wild during the dry season. It is also a good place to spot short-eared owls, Darwin’s finches, yellow warblers, Galapagos rails, and paint-billed crakes.

Gemelos: Los Gemelos, Spanish for "The Twins," are two volcanic depressions on the highest part of Santa Cruz. They are approximately 30 meters deep and located on either side of the road. The holes could've been created because of a volcanic explosion or because of magma chambers inside the earth caused the collapse. It's a good place to see the Galapagos hawk and barn owl. The surrounding forest is full of birds, such as the vermilion flycatcher or the yellow warbler.

Asilo de la Paz: The Asilo de la Paz is a hill 1,350 feet high on Floreana Island. The main attractions are of an historic nature: one is the cave of pirates and the other is the freshwater spring. Near Asilo de la Paz, the National Park Service built a corral where you can see Galapagos tortoises (from various islands).

Bahía del Correo (Mail Bay): Located on northern Floreana Island. It is called this because in 1793, Captain James Colnett installed an empty rum barrel, so that it could serve as a post office for the whale catching crafts that frequented the Galapagos Islands for a long time. Today, visitors carry on this tradition. The bay has a beautiful light-brown colored beach. Behind it is the famous barrel mailbox.

Punta Cormorán: Located on the west side of Floreana. Access to this place is very easy. It has a dark green beach. At and between the rock edges, you can see many sea invertebrates; sea iguanas and sea lions, as well. At a foothill, over the saint stick trees at the seashore, pelicans and frigates fly. There is asmall saltwater lake where flamingos and ducks nest. Mangrove and other plants, which just exist in this island, surround the small lake. On the other side of the point, there is a beach called Picona, where manta rays of the pan type live. For this reason, swimming is forbidden. This is also one of the most important beaches for sea turtle reproduction.

Corona del Diablo (Devil Crown): Half a mile from Punta Cormorán. This is a satellite islet of the Floreana Island. Now it is a group of rocks in the shape of a crown, due to the constant erosion caused by the ocean. Inside and outside of the crown there are perfect places to snorkel due to the variety of fishes—as well as the excellent water visibility!

Punta Suarez: The southernmost island, Española, is one of the richest wildlife locations in the Galapagos. Located on the western tip of Española is Punta Suarez. A 1.5-mile hike provides incredible views along the cliffs, through blue-footed booby colonies and a beach with sea lions and marine iguanas. Punta Suárez, is a rocky point that sustains one of the most impressive and varied colonies of sea birds in Galapagos. It is also home to a magnificent blowhole that can shoot water 50 to 60 feet in the air, providing opportunities for spectacular pictures.

Bahía Gardner (Gardner Bay): Located at the eastern coast of Hood/Espanola Island. There is a lovely white-sand beach, said to be the longest in the Galapagos. This island has its own endemic species of animals, such as the Española Mockingbird, the Española Lava Lizard, and the Española Marine Iguana. Here there are also boobies, Swallow-tailed Gulls, and other tropical birds. After a wet landing the extroverted mockingbirds may sit on top of your hat, peck at your feet, and investigate your belongings. The location's rocky shores make this site a great place for snorkeling, including the possibility of spotting the harmless white-tipped reef sharks. Gardner Bay is the breeding site of nearly all of the world's 12,000 pairs of Waved Albatrosses. It has an ample white sandy beach with a myriad of sea lions, perfect for relaxing.

Cerro Brujo: Located on San Cristobal Island. It is a quite eroded antique cone that shows itself as a majestic and monumental sight, with many forms and contrasts. The landing beach is big and has fine white sand. It is an excellent place to go swimming, generally with a calm sea. Behind the beach, there are small lakes surrounded by mangrove plants. This is a good place to see coastal and lake birds.

Leon Dormido: A rock formation located off the coast of San Cristobal island. It is the remains of a lava cone and the home to sea lions, blue-footed boobies, masked boobies, and magnificent frigate birds on the cliffs.

Centro de Interpretation: The Interpretation Center was opened in 1998 as a phase of the project “Interpretation and Environment Education Project.” You will enjoy expositions on natural history, human history, and conservation. The conservation efforts represent the movement to protect the wildlife and natural environment through means of population and tourist control. This will emphasize the importance of the Galapagos ecosystem fragility and its protection.

Santa Fe Island: Located south of the archipelago and between Santa Cruz and San Cristóbal, the island has a beautiful bay that's protected by natural formations against the wave strength by a rocky front. It has two small beaches abundant with sea lions. Snorkeling is good, since white-fin sharks, gold and leopard mantas, sea turtles and different types and sizes of fishes are found here. From the highest part of the island, one can observe the most beautiful views of the bay. You will see a good amount of cactus, the feeding source of the Santa Fé Island exclusive land iguanas. Lava lizards, terrestrial pigeons, a special type of non-poisonous snake, chaffinches, fly-trappers, and hawks are found here, too.

Plaza Sur Island: Plaza Sur Island is located east of Santa Cruz Island, and forms part of two islands known as Islas Plazas. The succulent plant, common in Plaza Sur, is the second-favorite food of land iguanas. About 1,000 sea lions that inhabit this island. Land iguanas on Plaza Sur are smaller than those at other sites. Throughout the island are several hybrid iguanas, a result of crossing a male marine iguana and a female land iguana. These iguanas are unique, recognizable at first glance by their black or gray color, with the crest of a land iguana, but the face and tail of the marine iguana.

Seymore Norte (North Seymour Island): A narrow 1,000-meter canal separates the island from Baltra. Saint sticks and salty scrublands are predominant in Seymour. Frigates nest over these plants. Blue-footed boobies profit from the island conditions, since there are big spaces among their bushes so that they can reproduce. The seagulls have their nest at the seashores, over small well-protected ravines. Marine iguanas have a special feeding behavior. Their diet is not limited to seaweed, like with the other iguana varieties of the island; they feed from the sea batis, a plant that tolerates the high salt concentration and lives at the seashore.

Bartholome Island: Home of the famous Pinnacle Rock, Bartholomew consists of an extinct volcano with a variety of red, orange, black, and even green volcanic formations. A trail of stairs leads to the summit of the volcano, boasting one of the best views of the islands. The beach is perfect for snorkeling and possible sightings of the Galapagos Penguin. It is a very young island.

Bahia Sullivan: Sullivan Bay on Isla San Salvador’s (Santiago) eastern coast is a barren landscape with lava fields left from a 100-year-old volcanic eruption. Here one can see uneroded lava formations such as pahoehoe and schrict, as well as ‘hornitos’ (little ovens) that are created when bubbles escaped from the hot lava. One can also find a number of colonizing plants here, such as Brachycereus cactus and Mollugo carpetweed.

Rabida Island: Located at the center of the archipelago, among Santiago, Santa Cruz and Isabella islands. You will land at the only beach of the island. This beach has an unusual and beautiful red color, with a green coastal vegetation color as a background -- which the pelicans nest over during reproduction time. Behind the beach is a lake, which changes its color depending of the microorganisms inhabitting them. Generally, flamingos and other bird lakes are found here. Following the path you will reach 30 meters above sea level, where you will be able to appreciate the general landscape. You will see different finches species and other terrestrial birds along the way. The beach is safe, and it is a sight to swim among the sea wolves, just like swimming underwater with snorkeling equipment and seeing the fish of different sizes and colors. Northwest of here, in the ravines and over the waves, it's possible to observe the furrier wolves—but it requires silence. Hawks, pelicans, boobies, herons, crabs, and others will only be seen from the boat with outboard motor.

Caleta Tortuga Negro: Black Turtle Cove is a red mangrove lagoon on Santa Cruz and a nursery for many sharks and rays. It is also a great location for observing mating sea turtles; after all, the site takes its name from the black sea turtles that mate in these calm waters. There are large groups of resting white-tip reef sharks, schools of golden rays and spotted eagle rays, and a few juvenile scalloped hammerhead sharks and black-tip sharks.

Day 10: This morning we travel back to Baltra. We leave our island paradise by plane this afternoon and fly to Quito, the capital city of Ecuador. From the airport we travel by motorcoach to Bellavista Lodge and Cloud Forest Reserve on the western slope of the Andes Mountains at about 7,000 feet elevation. This area is famous for having a large number of hummingbirds and having the largest number of birds ever recorded in one day in Ecuador. We will have a guided introduction into the lush forest and its animals before a welcome dinner. Overnight at the lodge. 

Day 11: After breakfast we have a guided walk in the Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve, which is full of birds and history. Early afternoon is a time to relax before we go on a short evening forest and birding walk and then eat dinner.

Day 12: After a brief morning walk in the cloud forest and breakfast, we travel back toward the city of Quito, stopping at the Equatorial Museum, and then arrive at the Rio Amazonas Hotel. After shopping and siteseeing, we’ll enjoy our farewell dinner together in one of Quito’s fine restaurants.

Day 13: It will be time to say good-bye to this lovely country for now. Transportation to the Quito airport is provided.

Please note, the trip starts in Guayaquil and ends in Quito. Make your airline reservations with different start and end cities.

Occasionally, changes may occur on the trip—either in advance or during the trip. Please be aware that we will make every attempt to stay within this itinerary. However, if weather, equipment, Galapagos National Park Service, or any other condition, circumstance, or situation causes a change, please be flexible and respect the decision of the leader. The safety of the group is our number one concern. While wildlife on the Galapagos Islands and at Bellavista is tremendous, we cannot guarantee that you will see all species listed as examples.

Getting There

You need to arrive in Guayaquil, Ecuador, on or before day one. Our trip ends in Quito, Ecuador. Many airlines fly to both cities and allow “round trip” excursions into one city and out of the other. Contact the leader before making your final arrangements. The flight to and from the Galapagos Islands is included in the trip price. Tickets for this flight will be issued to you at the airport when you leave for the islands. Your passport must be valid for at least six months from the ending date of this trip. If you don't have a passport, apply for one as soon as possible.  We recommend you not make travel arrangements until notified to do so by your Sierra Club leader.  

Accommodations and Food

All meals and lodgings are provided. Our yacht will be our home while we are in the Galapagos. This sleeps 16 passengers. Each stateroom has bunk beds and a private bath. There are common areas such as the dining area, sitting area, and lounge area on deck. Although the staterooms are not large, the other areas have ample space and are comfortable. 

When we are not on our yacht, we will be in centrally located hotels in Quito and Guayaquil or in the Bellavista eco-lodge. 

Vegetarians can easily be accommodated both on the yacht and the mainland of Ecuador.  

Trip Difficulty

This is a moderate trip and can be undertaken by anyone in good health and physical condition.

If you have health or walking concerns, here is more information that will assist you in evaluating this trip. The expression “OSHA hasn’t been here” applies. As you know, Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) regulates safety standards in America. There is no OSHA in Ecuador.  Even a walk in a progressive, busy city like Quito can be an adventure in itself. The Quito streets are uneven and hilly. You will find sidewalks with unmarked holes, and exposed wires and pipes that often will trip residents as well as visitors. Steep stairs may not have hand rails. This is not unusual in foreign countries.

For the Galapagos Islands, it is common to find the trails uneven, hilly, and rocky. Some are on loose lava. Even visits to the Charles Darwin Research Station will require walking on dirt trails and boardwalk. Walking poles are recommended.

You must have the ability and agility to handle transporting your own luggage to and from buses, airports and boats. Hopefully, this is incentive to pack light! You will need to maneuver sufficiently to board boats, which will range from smaller shuttle boats and water taxis to larger boats. 

We go from our yacht home to shore in pangas (rubber boats) and land where there are no docks. We get out of the pangas in a few inches of water and walk to the beach.

You must be reasonably steady and sure-footed enough to negotiate the various transitions and walks this trip relies upon to experience this unique environment.

Walks can range from a few miles to 5-6 miles on uneven terrain and rocky surfaces. While we will stop often to view wildlife, you will need to have a walking pace steady enough to keep up with the group.

The berths on the boat are bunk beds. All cabins are double occupancy and have a small private bathroom.

The average land temperature will be about 70-80 degrees. Quito, at 9,400 feet of elevation, will have cooler temperatures, and light showers are normal. Bellavista eco-lodge is located in the cool forests at 7,000 feet. The seawater temperature around the Galapagos remains a fairly constant 70 degrees.

The minimum age for this trip is 12.

If you have any questions or concerns, please discuss them with your trip leader.  

Equipment and Clothing

As this is a moderate trip, with full accommodations provided by the yacht, there are not any special equipment requirements. We do have many opportunities for snorkeling. Basic snorkeling gear is provided, but if you have your own mask, fins, and snorkel you should bring them to assure the best fit. Some type of light wet suit will help with comfort and warmth while snorkeling. A “shorty” wetsuit is highly recommended and available for rent on the boat. The water is typically in the 70 degree range. Your general casual clothing for warm weather hiking and boating will work fine. You will receive clothing and packing list suggestions from the leader before the trip departs.

The leader will carry a first-aid kit for emergency use. You should provide your own personal first-aid kit for minor needs such as bandages, Moleskin, insect repellent, sunscreen, etc. You should consult your physician for recommended current immunizations. 

References

• Moore, Yui DeRoy, Galapagos Islands Lost in Time. Penguin Books.
• Brower, K., Galapagos: The Flow of Wildness. Sierra Club/Ballantine Books.
• Darwin, Charles, The Voyage of the Beagle. Doubleday Books.
• Darwin, Charles, On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection.
• Harris, M., Field Guide to the Birds of Galapagos. Taplinger Books.
• Schichor, Michael, Michael's Guide to Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela. Inbal Travel Ltd.
• Rachowiecki, Rob, Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands: A Travel Survival Kit. Lonely Planet Books.
• Jackson, Michael H., Galapagos: A Natural History Guide. This is the best general guide to the history, geology, and plant and animal life of the islands.
• Melville, Herman. The Piazza Tales. Darwin wasn't the only one to find inspiration in the Galápagos. During the whaling era, Herman Melville made landfall here, and he perpetuated the sailor's nickname: Los Encantadas ("the Enchanted Islands"). Melville delivers a metaphor-rich, almost hallucinatory account of the archipelago's history, filled with misstatements, speculation, and poetry.

Conservation

Conservation problems exist even though the Galapagos National Park is protected and monitored by the Ecuadorian government. Buccaneers captured tens of thousands of tortoises for fresh meat on their voyages, bringing the population to the edge of extinction. Fur seals were exploited and nearly driven to extinction as well. Fishermen vie for reduced marine harvests and seek short-term profits in the taking of endangered species or overfishing. Currently, a very serious problem is the fishing of sharks for the ever-popular shark-fin soup in Asia.

The Galapagos has an unfortunate legacy of introduced animals and plants detrimental to the native creatures. Goats compete with native tortoises and iguanas, making food less available and destroying native vegetation. Predators, such as dogs and cats have seriously depleted native populations by killing native animals and raiding the nests of the birds, iguanas, and tortoises. Introduced plants have spread, particularly in the moist highlands, and compete with native vegetation. People have hunted large numbers of animals in the past and have cleared great areas of native vegetation for agriculture and ranching purposes. We will visit the Darwin Research Center and observe how the conservation personnel have been actively trying to boost the threatened populations of endangered species. Tortoise nests are protected, and eggs and young are brought to Santa Cruz to be raised in captivity, then released once they are no longer susceptible to predation.

After the Galapagos we will be staying at the Bellavista Lodge in cloud forest on the western slope of the Andes Mountains. The owners of the lodge have been leaders in conserving this unique ecosystem, and created a private reserve surrounding the lodge to protect its forest and wildlife. Our certified naturalist guide will tell us about the amazing diversity of plants and animals, as well as the threats to the area.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.