Fire, Ice, and Water, Iceland

The Trip

Nature has wrought extravagant wonder upon the Icelandic landscape. Although the whole of Iceland lies within four degrees of the Arctic Circle, the country's weather is moderated by the Gulf Stream. In mid-summer, night lasts only a few hours. The day's polar sunlight and its slanting clarity inspired the poet W.H. Auden to call it "the most magical light of anywhere on earth."

Iceland is also one of the most geologically active places in the world, with tectonic rifts, steaming volcanoes, thundering waterfalls, and massive glaciers. Boiling water erupts from the earth as geysers and mud pools. Icelanders capture this geothermal energy for heating, electricity, greenhouses, steam baths, saunas, and the hot-water outdoor swimming pools that are at the heart of every Icelandic town. Though Iceland contains the largest glacier in Europe, most of the country remains ice-free and its mostly treeless landscape accentuates the dramatic vistas. For a relatively small country that has been inhabited for more than a millennium, Iceland remains remarkably wild. Towns, villages, and farms are found along the coast, but the central interior is virtually uninhabited. Our exploration of the island's inland area will be a rewarding adventure.

Our trip will focus on sectors of the country holding the greatest concentration of scenic sites. We will begin and end in the vibrant modern city of Reykjavík, with its fine restaurants, theaters, galleries, shops, bustling harbor, and stunning scenery. Throughout our trip we will learn about the important role of geothermal energy in Iceland as we traverse the country’s dynamic landscapes. We will travel in a comfortable bus, regularly stop for moderate hikes along our route, and discuss energy, environment, and conservation issues affecting Iceland. While hiking is at the heart of our Icelandic exploration, birdwatching is also on the agenda, as is relaxing in some of the country's many natural hot springs. We will also visit assorted museums including an exhibit of the 2010 volcanic eruption, which brought air travel in most of Western Europe to a halt for several days.

Please note that while we will do our best to follow the planned itinerary, we may have to make last-minute changes due to weather or road conditions. That is the charm of our adventure in Iceland, where the winds and rain and sun can appear, or disappear, at short notice.

Day 1: Arrival. Arrive at Keflavik International Airport and proceed to the Reykjavik hotel on your own. Your trip leader and guide will greet you at the hotel. The trip begins at noon with a short introductory meeting, followed by a welcome lunch. After lunch, we will drive to the Hellisheiði geothermal power plant. The Geothermal Energy Exhibition at the power plant offers a state-of-the-art introduction to Iceland’s harnessing of geothermal energy, a subject that will come up in many a conversation. In the afternoon, we will return to our hotel in Reykjavík for early relaxation; many of us will be tired from the flight. Dinner will be on your own. Overnight: city hotel.

Day 2: Reykjanes. From Reykjavík, we will drive along the Reykjanes coast, the southwestern-most point of Iceland. The area is volcanic and stark. Most conspicuous are the old shield volcanoes and crater rows, some of which formed in recent geologic times. We will visit the bridge between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates, Krísuvík geothermal area, and Krísuvíkurbjarg bird cliff. We will stop at a simple, but delicious, seafood restaurant for lunch, which will be on your own. Overnight: country hotel.

Day 3: Thórsmörk Valley. In the morning, we will head to Thorsmörk, the Valley of Thor (Norse God of Thunder), which is a favorite outdoor site for Icelanders. This rugged, yet lovely, valley offers a unique combination of glaciers, rock walls, and rare birch woodland, as well as an exciting glacial meltwater river crossing. On the way to Thorsmörk, we will drive through the setting of some of the best-known Icelandic sagas. Conditions permitting, we may hike to Fimmvörðuháls mountain ridge, situated between glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull, where the steaming craters Magni and Móði formed during the 2010 volcanic eruption. Otherwise, we will have shorter hikes in the area of the Básar Hut and enjoy a picnic lunch. On the way back to our hotel, we will visit the picturesque waterfall Seljalandsfoss. Overnight: country hotel.

Day 4: South Coast. After breakfast, we will drive along the diverse southern Icelandic coast. Our first stop will be at the Eyjafjallajökull visitor center, located near Thorvaldseyri farm, which was dramatically saved during the 2010 eruption. We will continue to Skógar and visit the powerful Skógafoss waterfall and the Skógar Country and Transport Museum, where we will also stop for lunch, which is on your own. Afterward, we will proceed to Dyrhólaey cliff, Reynisfjara black sand beach, and the village Vík. We will arrive at our accommodation in Kirkjubæjarklaustur in the late afternoon. Overnight: country hotel.

Day 5: Langisjór & Eldgjá. We will spend the day in the eastern part of the Southern Interior where we will visit the fire gorge Eldgjá, a volcanic fissure that's 20 miles long and reaches a width of 2,000 feet and depth of 500 feet along our route. We will have a picnic lunch, then head to Lake Langisjór -- a remote, breathtaking Highland site. Some may wish to hike up to the top of Sveinstindur Mountain for an even more spectacular view. Overnight: country hotel.

Day 6: Skaftafell National Park & Glacial Lagoon. From Kirkjubæjarklaustur, we will drive east to Skaftafell National Park, where we will enjoy a hike to the waterfall Svartifoss. After lunch, on your own, we will continue to a glacier lagoon filled with oddly shaped icebergs. We will take a memorable boat trip among the icebergs, admiring the iridescent, blue-green, floating ice sculptures. Overnight: country hotel.

Day 7: Landmannalaugar. Today, we will leave our country hotel and embark on the Fjallabak North mountain road en route to Landmannalaugar in the uninhabited uplands. Bordering a geothermal area, Landmannalaugar is surrounded by colorful rhyolite mountains. Both hot and cold springs emerge from the earth to provide excellent natural bathing pools. Landmannalaugar is connected to other popular upland destinations by footpaths with plenty of great hiking options available. Following a picnic lunch and soothing bath in the warm geothermal pool, we will leave Landmannalaugar and arrive at our next hotel in the late afternoon. Overnight: country hotel.

Day 8: Thingvellir National Park, Gullfoss Waterfall & Geysir Geothermal Area. After breakfast, we will head to Gullfoss waterfall and the Geysir hot spring area. Gullfoss has long been regarded as one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland. Geysir, the famous spouting hot spring and origin of the international word “geyser,” is nearby. Geysir no longer erupts without human intervention, but the nearby hot spring, Strokkur, spouts about every 10 minutes. We will then proceed to Friðheimar farm, where we will have a simple lunch of soup and bread, visit a greenhouse, and enjoy an Icelandic horse show. From there we will go to Thingvellir, one of the most interesting historic and geographic places in Iceland, which was the first site nominated for UNESCO’s World Heritage designation. There we can eyewitness the geological rift splitting the American and Eurasian continents. Overnight: country hotel.

Day 9: Kerlingafjöll & Hveravellir. We will have a long day ahead. After breakfast, we will head to Kjölur Highland track, which runs between south and north Iceland and also lies between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers. We will spend the morning hiking in the beautiful geothermal area of Kerlingafjöll. After a picnic lunch here, we will arrive at Hveravellir, also known for its geothermal activity. Outlaws -- such as the 18th-century Eyvindur of the Mountains and his companion, Halla -- lived in the Highlands for decades as fugitives from justice; signs of their presence may still be seen at Hveravellir. We will also have the opportunity to dip into a warm nature pool before continuing our travel. In the late afternoon, we will arrive at Skagafjörður, Iceland‘s valley of horse breeders, where our accommodation is located. Overnight: country hotel.

Day 10: Jökulsárgljúfur National Park. After breakfast we will pass through Akureyri, Iceland’s second-largest town, and the old fishing village of Húsavik, which has a charming harbor. After lunch in the village, on your own, we will drive across the Tjörnes peninsula as we head to visit Jokulsargljufur National Park, home to Dettifoss, Europe's most powerful waterfall, and Ásbyrgi, an enormous, horseshoe-shaped depression. From there, we will proceed to our accommodation in the Mývatn area. Overnight: country hotel.

Day 11: Mývatn. This morning we’ll explore the volcanic wonderland surrounding Lake Myvatn, including a hike up and around the Hverfjall Tephra Crater with its sweeping views of the Lake Myvatn area. Our descent will take us through an area of lava tunnels and arches. After a picnic lunch, we’ll visit a peninsula along the lake for some birdwatching in this area known for diverse bird population. Later in the afternoon we’ll have the option to visit the Mývatn Nature Baths. The entry fee to the baths (about $25) is not included in the trip price. Overnight: country hotel.

Day 12: North Iceland. Following a morning hike we’ll say good-bye to Mývatn and begin our route westward across the fjords of northern Iceland. Stopping for lunch on your own and a couple of short, scenic hikes, we’ll have a long drive to Snæfellsnes Peninsula, where we will stay for the next two nights. Overnight: country hotel.

Day 13: Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Today we will give the peninsula Snæfellsnes, sometimes called “Iceland in a Nutshell,” all our attention. This will include a tour to Snæfellsnes National Park and around the Snaefellsjokull Glacier, which sits atop the volcanic mountain where Jules Verne’s novel “Journey to the Centre of the Earth” began. We will also walk along the seacliff coast by the village Arnarstapi, then have lunch on our own at a charming seaside café. We will go to the harbor village of Stykkishólmur, where we will have an opportunity to walk around or embark on a nature and bird-watching boat tour on Breiðafjörður Bay; the cost of the tour is included in the trip price. Overnight: country hotel.

Day 14: Borgarfjörður – Reykjavík. After breakfast, we will drive to the area of Borgarfjörður Valley to visit the waterfalls Hraunfossar and Barnafoss as well as the hot springs at Deildartunguhver. We will stop at Reykholt Church, which, in the Middle Ages, was the home of one of the most important people in Icelandic history, Snorri Sturluson. At that time, Reykholt was one of the intellectual centers of the island and for many years it had one of the most important schools in the country. After lunch on our own, we will head to Reykjavík, where we will check into our hotel in the early afternoon. The rest of the day we will be free to roam around town, walk on the marina, or do some last-minute shopping. Later, we will have a farewell dinner in a local restaurant. Overnight: city hotel.

Day 15: Departure Day. We will have a leisurely breakfast, recount our experiences, say goodbye to our new (and old) friends, check out of the hotel, and head to the airport on our own.

Getting There

Icelandair offers service to several U.S. airports. In addition, Delta recently started flights to Iceland. It is possible that other airlines will also start service. It is best to search all possibilities for the best results. Keflavik International Airport is about a 45-minute drive from the capital. The trip leader encourages participants to arrive a day or two early in order to get over jet lag and to explore. There is an excellent bus service from Keflavik to major hotels. On the last day, it will be necessary to make reservations for the bus in advance in order to be picked up at the hotel or a nearby convenient location. Please note that airport transfers are not included in the trip price. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Clean, comfortable three-star lodgings will typically consist of country hotels or guesthouses. All accommodations are double rooms with private baths. Participants who are traveling alone will be paired with another solo participant of the same gender. Some single rooms may be available for a single supplement. Contact your trip leader for further information. Meals will be tasty and wholesome. We will make every effort to accommodate special dietary needs, such as vegetarian dishes.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is designed for those with a sense of adventure and a desire to visit areas of immense natural beauty and unique geological wonder. Participants should be in good condition and capable of hiking on mixed terrain with significant elevation gain. Self-sufficient teenagers and active seniors are welcome. Short and long hike options will be available at some places. The longest hike planned is four miles and the greatest elevation gain on a hike is 1,500 feet. In July in Reykjavík, the average high temperature is 57 degrees (F), the average low is 48, and the average monthly rainfall in July is two inches. Some of the bus rides between stops seem long, particularly when we are on back roads, but the scenery is always interesting as we drive along.

Equipment and Clothing

For U.S. citizens, a valid passport (no visa) is necessary, but no shots or immunizations are required. Waterproof, breathable rain gear is necessary, along with synthetic or wool pants and shirt. Only day packs will be needed for hikes, as personal gear will be transported by bus. Good hiking boots with ankle support are required for some hikes. You will receive a more detailed equipment list from the trip leader well before the trip departs.

References

Map:

• Iceland touring map with place name index, 1:500,000 scale, Landmaelingar Islands, publisher

Books:

• Iceland, an Insight Guide.
• Fergus, Charles and Peter Baldwin, Summer at Little Lava.
• Harlow, Cathy, Iceland, a Landmark Visitors Guide.
• Lacey, Terry, Ring of Seasons: Iceland, Its Culture and History.
• Presser, Brandon, Carolyn Bain, and Fran Parnell, Iceland: A Lonely Planet Guide.
• Roberts, David and John Krakauer, Iceland: Land of the Sagas.
• Witze, Alexandra and Jeff Kanipe, Island on Fire: The Extraordinary Story of a Forgotten Volcano That Changed the World.

Website:

• State Department information: http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw /cis/cis_1138.html

Conservation

Since its founding in 1892, The Sierra Club has worked to preserve and restore the natural environment we all share on this planet. Thousands of grassroots-level volunteers spearhead our efforts to conserve and sustain resources, both in our own backyards and on a global scale. Through direct experience in the outdoors, Sierra Club outings enable participants to better understand, advocate, and participate in the environmental conservation goals of the Club.

The interaction of technology and nature is an important theme in modern Iceland. This island country is one of the cleanest places on the planet. Its water and air have been spared the pollution common to most of the rest of the world, and Icelanders would like to keep it that way. The Icelandic fishing industry is quite sophisticated and active. Conservation efforts are underway to protect and nurture diminishing fish stocks. Whaling has been controversial, and, of course, most of us are familiar with the home Icelanders gave to the captured whale Keiko. Geothermal energy provides clean and efficient heat and electricity. A volcanic activity not long ago was "tamed" when a lava flow was diverted and a community spared at Heimay. As we move into the next millennium, the Icelandic people are making their entire gene pool available for biotechnology research.

Soil erosion is a critical issue. Also, aluminum smelters make use of Iceland’s abundant energy resources with bauxite shipped from Australia. However, the development of these resources through new hydroelectric plants and the disposal of the waste products have caused serious environmental concern.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.