Focus on Birds in Brazil's Pantanal and Ubatuba

The Trip

Brazil, a country larger than the contiguous United States, spans half the continent of South America and has a huge variety of habitats. This trip will highlight the northern Pantanal and a portion of the Atlantic Forest and southeastern coastline between Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. While our principle focus will be to find as many species of birds as possible, we cannot help but see many mammals and reptiles. As the trip finale we will enjoy a stay in the charming colonial city of Paraty.

The trip begins when your flight arrives in Brasilia, the capital of Brazil. Get out your map to follow along. The next morning we fly to Cuiabá, the northern gateway to the Pantanal. From there we immediately drive to Currupira dos Araras with its famed Harpy Eagle nest site. The next day we drive south to Poconé where we begin on the Transpantaneira. We spend five nights between Piuval, Pouso Alegre, and the Pantanal Wildlife Center, and two nights farther south at Porto Jofre, the road’s end. For the last part of the trip we return to Cuiabá in order to fly to Sao Paulo, our gateway to the Atlantic Forest. The remainder of the trip will be at Itamambuca Eco-resort near Ubatuba and at nearby Paraty for the final two nights. From Paraty we drive to Rio in time for the evening international flights returning to Miami. Domestic flights are available to other destinations in Brazil for post-trip travel you may wish to plan.

The Pantanal is a place of superlatives. This wildlife watcher’s paradise is the world’s largest fresh-water wetlands -- 10 times the size of the Everglades. “Pantanal” is derived from a Portuguese word meaning “swamp." Mainly in the southeastern Brazilian states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sur, it is a gently sloping basin with meandering rivers that slowly release water to a single drainage channel, the Paraguay River. Annual flooding for six months of the vast grasslands nourishes the “producers," which in turn nourish all other species as well. In the dry season between June and late September, the vast flooded fields shrink to smaller ponds, and many animals are drawn to these water holes. The sheer numbers of birds and animals have to be seen to be believed. It's suggested by the American Birding Association to be one of the top 10 places to bird before you...! Even relaxed birding can yield more than 50 species a day -- on some days dozens of mammals (especially capybaras), hundreds of yacaré (one of the smaller crocodilians), and thousands of birds. The quality of these sightings is top-notch; how about the big blue hyacinth macaw for starters?   Another five of the top target birds might be the greater rhea, helmeted manakin, toco toucan, agami heron, and jabiru. A jaguar would be the ultimate mammal sighting, but finding him is never assured. More predictable will be five other large mammalian targets: the Brazilian tapir, giant anteater, giant otter, marsh deer, and puma. As for reptiles, one serpent tops every visitor’s “wish list": the world’s biggest snake, the green anaconda. However, its slightly smaller relative, the yellow anaconda is more likely for us to see.

A quarter the size of the Amazon Forest, the Atlantic Forest is the most densely populated region in Brazil, and it is now the most endangered habitat in the world. The SE Atlantic Forest Biome extends from the southern border with Uruguay north to Belo Horizonte. Long isolated from the Amazon by a wide arid plateau, many of the animals and plants found here have evolved into species found nowhere else on Earth. Typical Neotropical families of birds are present, but often as totally different and sometimes surprisingly colorful species. Because of the extreme number of endemic species, it is considered the prime birding destination in Brazil. Between Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, the Serro do Mar is a coastal range of low-lying mountains and escarpments cloaked in a gorgeous wet forest, and in many places dropping to the sea. Gleaming beaches and spectacular scenery add to the pleasure of touring the Atlantic Forest.

Brazil is a surprisingly large country -- the fifth largest in the world. Distances within the country are vast and flights from the U.S. are even longer -- typically nine hours from Miami. Furthermore, Brazil is an expensive country for travel, due especially to the dollar’s decline against the overvalued Brazilian Real. Portuguese is the language spoken in Brazil; it is closely related to Spanish. We will be fortunate to have tri-lingual naturalist guide Xavier Munoz for the entire trip.

Day 1: Most flights from the U.S. arrive in the morning at the Aeroporto Internacional de Brasilia. After transferring to our hotel, spend the day catching up with the change in time zones (four hours for California PDT) and resting after the very long flight. Brasilia, now a 50+ year-old city, was built to be the capital of Brazil in the middle of nowhere. The concept of a planned city is the subject of great curiosity for many North Americans; you might enjoy arriving a day early in order to explore this unique experiment in urban planning and admire the architecture of Oscar Niemeyer. Our first evening will give us a chance to meet together for dinner and to learn more about our trip to come.

Day 2: A morning domestic airline flight will take us to Cuiabá, the capital of Mato Grosso state. After arriving, we will load our bus and immediately drive west toward Serra das Araras to Pousada Currupira dos Araras, where for several years a harpy eagle pair has been nesting within walking distance of this lodge. The harpy eagle must be high on the list of “most wanted birds in the world”; it is huge and truly impressive. No guarantee, but the harpy is normally loyal to a favored nest site. As soon as we arrive, we will take our first walk to see the nest; after dark we might look for night creatures. The farm provides rooms with air conditioning and private bathrooms. 

Day 3: In the morning we’ll spend more time birding; after lunch it will be time to drive south to Poconé and then continue on to the Transpantaneira to the first fazenda, Pousada Piuval. A viewing tower, a swimming pool, and one of the only gifts shops of the Pantanal can be found here at Piuval. On our agenda will be our first boat ride as we cruise around the baía (large bay) and our first night safari when we will look for puma, both anteaters, and Azara’s night monkey. In addition to the many waterfowl, expect to see greater rhea, southern screamer, and red-legged seriema. 

Day 4: We'll enjoy a full day at Pousada Piuval.

Day 5: We'll have more time before breakfast for birding before we drive just a short distance on the Transpantaneira to a spectacular wetland filled with hundreds of egrets, storks, and herons, Capybaras, and Yacarés (caimans). Today we move to the Pantanal Wildlife Center, more commonly known by its original name, Fazenda Santa Teresa. The drive is not long in miles, but the road is not in the best condition. Since the wildlife viewing is excellent, we may find ourselves spending many hours to enjoy the animals and birds in roadside trees and water-filled ditches. The accommodations at Santa Teresa are simple but attractive; rooms have air conditioning and hot showers. Even the gardens are filled with wildlife. Imagine relaxing in a hammock with a cold drink, watching jabiru parents feed their four-foot tall youngsters in a stick nest high in a dead tree while a southern crested caracara feeds on the lawn 10 yards away.

Day 6: A full day at Santa Teresa, where we will enjoy wonderful opportunities for close-up views from observation towers of nesting jabirus and great potoos. Three species of monkeys and many of the Pantanal’s forest bird specialties are present on trails from the lodge through dense gallery forest. A boat excursion should allow us to see some unusual water birds: sun grebes, sunbitterns, zigzag and agami herons (the most beautiful of all herons), and all five kingfishers. Night excursions may provide sightings of owls and mammals, most of which are nocturnal. 

Day 7: After an early morning walk along the river in search of more special birds, we will climb on our bus to head south to Porto Jofre at the end of the Transpantaneira. Roadside woodland and scrub are particularly good for birding. About halfway we come to Campo Jofre, a vast wetland that provides habitat for limpkins, ibises, herons, and the star attraction, the Maguari Stork. Our lodge in Porto Jofre has modern rooms, a swimming pool, and excellent meals.

Day 8: From Porto Jofre we will spend the day on the river in the hopes that we can spot both species of otters as well as the elusive jaguar. Of course, there will always be many birds and other wildlife to be seen.

Day 9: Today we return north, now to Pouso Alegre, a huge cattle ranch known for excellent wildlife viewing. Even along the bumpy entrance road, we might see marsh deer, Brazilian tapir, and more yacarés and capybaras. Trails from the lodge offer chances to view several primates, including black-tailed marmoset, black howler, and black-striped tufted capuchin. Among the birds to see at Pouso Alegre are many species of parrots, owls, woodpeckers, and hummingbirds. Hyacinth macaws roost within earshot of this simple lodge. 

Day 10: We will have more time for wildlife walks in the morning before we drive to Cuiabá in order to fly to Sao Paulo for the Atlantic Forest portion of our trip. Flight times, and therefore our overnight location, will depend upon airline schedules, which are not yet available.

Day 11: Now, at Itamambuca Eco-resort near Ubatuba, our exploration begins of the highly endangered forests of Mata Atlántica (Atlantic Forest), mangroves along Rio Itamambuca, and the spectacular beaches along the coast. During our stay we will take a boat ride on the river, walk on trails and along the beach, and certainly spend hours studying the incredible tanagers and eye-popping hummingbirds that come to feeders. 

Days 12-13: We'll enjoy full days at Itamambuca.

Day 14: We will move the short distance east to the colonial city of Paraty. We will have a city tour to understand Paraty’s economic importance from the 17th century to the present. We will visit some private preserves, looking for endemic birds of the area, and we will have a boat ride to Mamanguá to observe the coast and several island beaches.

Day 15: We have most of the day to spend in Paraty before we drive to the airport in Rio de Janeiro to be ready for evening international flights directly to Miami. If you prefer to extend your stay in Rio for a few days or go to additional destinations, such as Iguaçu Falls, you will need overnight lodging, which is not part of the official trip.

Getting There

The trip begins August 14 in Brasilia in Brazil. You need to be in Brasilia no later than mid-afternoon on Sunday, August 14, in time for the group dinner and overnight at our hotel. Most flights will arrive in the morning, often quite early. The trip ends on Sunday, August 28 with transfer to the international airport in Rio de Janeiro in time for the evening flights homeward. American Airlines does have direct flights to and from Miami and Brasilia, Rio de Janeiro, and Sao Paulo. Be very careful about the dates for your flights as with overnight flights it is easy to get confused. Changes are expensive.

Please note that all domestic air flights and related taxes are included in the trip price. The required Brazilian tourist visa and international air flights are not included.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We stay in “big city” hotels two nights, a small hotel two nights, and for all other nights we are at fazendas and lodges designed to serve the wildlife tourists visiting the Pantanal and the Atlantic Forest. Accommodations in the field are simple but rooms have private baths and most have air-conditioning available, although most evenings will cool off comfortably. 

Pantanal lodges serve a cuisine typical of this region, which is very rich in variations of beef, chicken, and occasionally, fish. The Itamambuca Eco-resort specializes in typical local foods. A wide variety of foods are available in city hotels. Vegetarians can be accommodated, but choices will be quite limited; you cannot escape the fact that the Pantanal is cattle country.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is actually composed of three segments. The first involves relatively easy walking on a cattle ranch for two half-days. The second section is the seven nights and days in the Pantanal proper. Always at a low elevation, there will be opportunities for many short to moderate walks, cross-country vehicle trips, and on-the-water outings. We do a considerable amount of standing around while observing birds and wildlife. This will not be a trip to simply “check a bird off your list” and move on; we will take time to observe the behavior and beauty of the creatures we have come so far to see. There will be plenty of time to take photographs, although the trip is not designed primarily for serious wildlife photography. It can get quite hot in the middle of the day, so we will emphasize early morning and late afternoon and evening activities, allowing some mid-day leisure. The third segment will be along the coast and forest about mid-way between Sao Paulo and Rio at sea level and slightly above. There will be many options regarding activities, including swimming in pools or the ocean. 

To fully enjoy this trip, you should be in good physical condition and eager to fully participate in all activities. You need to commit to rising early each morning in order to make the most of the day before it gets too warm to enjoy. Dawn is around 6:00 a.m. and sunset is at 6 p.m. Although hikes are not strenuous, at times there will be long periods in the field. You could call this a “relaxed” trip, but not a “leisure” trip.

There is no malaria in the Pantanal, but yellow fever has recently been reported from some areas of the Pantanal. Yellow fever vaccine is strongly recommended for all travelers to Brazil except those only visiting Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo, and certain coastal areas. The vaccine should be taken at least two weeks before exposure and remains effective for approximately 10 years. Be sure to bring your “yellow booklet," the International Certificate of Vaccination, with the record of your vaccinations. Taking measures to protect yourself from mosquito bites is an essential part of preventing yellow fever as well as annoying itches. In addition to yellow fever, inoculations to discuss with your doctor are Hepatitis A, Typhoid, and Tetanus. It will be necessary to always drink purified or bottled water in Brazil.

You must have a passport that is good for six months after the date you leave Brazil. In addition, Brazil requires a tourist visa, which must be obtained before departing on the trip. Getting the visa requires planning ahead in order to have enough time for processing because you must send in your passport for several weeks. Your trip leader will help to guide you through the somewhat complicated procedure.

Equipment and Clothing

You should have a good pair of binoculars. These should be gas filled to prevent moisture from getting inside. This trip would be a good excuse to treat yourself to a new, excellent pair of binoculars, but be sure you take plenty of time to test them and get thoroughly used to them well before this trip. A camera is not required, but for such a wildlife spectacle, most people will bring one. The same advice is offered to owners of a new camera –- practice, practice, and practice using it before you leave home.

For this trip you will want comfortable, loose clothing with long sleeves and pants for protection from the environment. Temperatures will often be quite warm, but this is the season when cold storms blow up from the south, so you will need to have a warm jacket for that possibility. Laundry service will be available allowing you to travel with a minimum of changes. You will want a day bag for your “stuff” that goes everywhere with you as well as a moderate size duffle or soft-sided “Rollie” as your main piece of luggage. A packing list with many more details will be provided after you have signed up for the trip.

References

• Lowen, James, Pantanal Wildlife, A Visitor’s Guide to Brazil’s Great Wetland. Bradt Guide. This small volume is just a terrific introduction to the Pantanal.
• Banks, Vic, The Pantanal, Brazil’s Forgotten Wilderness. Sierra Club publication. Times have changed a lot in the 20 years since this book was written -– a firsthand look at this endangered biological wonderland.
• Pearson, David L., and Les Beletsky, Brazil, Amazon and Pantanal. Traveler’s Wildlife Guide series. Too heavy to carry on the trip, but excellent pre-trip reading about both habitats and wildlife.
• Gwynne, John A., Robert S. Ridgely, Guy Tudor, and Martha Argel, Birds of Brazil, The Pantanal and Cerrado of Central Brazil. Wildlife Conservation Society.  A brand new, beautifully executed field guide perfect for the first portions of this trip. A similar guide for the Atlantic Forest is promised; hopefully it will be available in time for our trip. Alternatively, A Field guide to the Birds of Brazil, by Ber van Perlo is available both in print and for downloading to iPad or Kindle.
• Pantanal, South America’s Wetland Jewel. Photographs by Theo Allofs. Firefly. This wonderful collection of wildlife photographs is nicely complimented by short, interesting text.
• Dean, Warren, With Broadax and Firebrand: The Destruction of the Brazilian Atlantic Forest. The path to what could be one of the greatest natural disasters of modern time. University of California Press, 1995.
• Map of Brazil, 1:4,200,000, by National Geographic. Available from Amazon.com.

Conservation

The land of the Pantanal is 99% in private ownership primarily for the purpose of agriculture, ranching in particular. There are 2,500 fazendas in the region, with up to 8 million head of cattle. The Pantanal is under threat from many other human activities, including recreational over-fishing, hunting and poaching of endangered species, uncontrolled tourism, deforestation and burning for agricultural use, runoff from agricultural chemicals, and mining of gold and coal. Pressure for economic development, such as the plan to dredge the Paraguay and Parana Rivers to create a “hydro-road” which would allow ocean-going ships to travel far inland, would have serious consequences for the ecosystem by altering the flooding and drainage cycles.

When we see the hordes of caimans, you might think that that Yacaré are abundant, and that is true now, but only due to recent conservation efforts. For nearly all the 20th century, these animal were hunted savagely to supply the global demand for “crocodile skins." Only since 1990 has trade legislation been enforced strongly enough for poaching to nearly cease. Yacaré have recovered rapidly and current populations are estimated around 35 million.

The story of the recovering Hyacinth Macaw raises our hopes as the population in the Pantanal has risen from 1,500 in 1990 to 3,000 in 2000, due primarily to the efforts of The Hyacinth Macaw Project, which was started in 1980 by a 27-year-old biology student with the intention of increasing breeding success. These macaws nest in one unique tree, manduvi, which is soft enough for them to hollow out with their beaks, and they prefer to eat the nut of one particular tree, the Acuri Palm. Both trees are scarce and fall victim to cattle.

Five hundred years ago, the Atlantic Forest of Brazil covered an area about twice the size of Texas, but today more than 85% of this forest has been cleared and what remains is highly fragmented. Brazil’s eastern seaboard has always been the main locus of its population and industry. Today it accounts for 70% of Brazil’s population, including mega-cities like Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo (third-largest city in the world), and about 80% of its gross domestic product. At present, less than 2% of the whole biome is under protected status. The primary continuing threats to these fragments include illegal logging and extractive activities of valuable timber species, land conversion to pasture, agriculture, and forest plantations, and expansion of urban areas and suburban development. The Nature Conservancy, along with a wide range of partners, has an ambitious plan to protect and restore millions of acres by stitching together a mosaic of land in order to create “forest corridors” of contiguous swaths of land. In order to build forest corridors it is necessary to first identify key areas for biodiversity conservation, then re-establish connections among isolated forest patches by creating public and private protected areas and restoring deforested zones. Also, it is essential to consider the lives of the people subsisting in these forests.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.