Galápagos Islands and Machu Picchu: The Best of Ecuador and Peru

The Trip

From lush rainforests, to deserts, to lava flows, the volcanic archipelago of the Galapagos has both puzzled and stunned its visitors for more than 400 years. The wildly diverse ecosystems of the Galapagos Islands provide a haven for unique wildlife – fifty percent of their species are found nowhere else. And the magic is, they are approachable by humans. Imagine yourself photographing and viewing animals that do not run off and birds that don’t fly away. This is likely due to their isolation from natural predators - a condition created by the very processes of evolution that first stirred Darwin to speculation in 1835. The Galapagos Islands are among the world’s foremost wildlife preserves, providing you with unique and amazing experiences in viewing wildlife. Especially unusual is the three-foot-long vegetarian marine iguana, the only known sea-feeding lizard on earth. The Galapagos tortoise grows to six feet in length, weighs up to 600 pounds and lives for at least 150 years! The archipelago also boasts colorful Sally Lightfoot crabs, sea lions, land iguanas, and lava lizards. A prolific bird population includes frigate birds, penguins, boobies, tropicbirds, mocking birds, doves, albatross, hawks, gulls, cormorants, herons, warblers, flamingos and the famous Darwin finches. Get your cameras ready … this is a paradise of photo opportunities!

Charles Darwin, of course, was the archipelago’s most famous visitor. His chapter on the Galapagos in “The Voyage of the Beagle” remains a classic, and is well worth reading. “The natural history of these islands is eminently curious,” he wrote and with his collections of plants and animals, his observations and notes, he had sufficient material to support more than a quarter century of research. Twenty-four years later, he published “On the Origin of Species.” It shook the foundations of biological thought and led to profound changes in the philosophy of nature. The Galapagos -- “the Enchanted Islands”—is a world class destination! The sailor’s nickname: “The Enchanted Isles” is because of the swirling fogs that surround the islands at certain times of the year give rise to the legend that these were floating islands. While it is common to travel on boats in the Galapagos, on our trip, we will stay at hotels on land. We will take a “fast boat” between Santa Cruz and Isabella Islands (about two and a half hours one way). On the boat, we will be keeping our eyes out for any dolphins, turtles or other sea life, as well as birds flying along.    

We will also visit Machu Picchu in Peru. Machu Picchu is the site of an ancient Inca city, high in the Andes of Peru. Located at 8,000 foot above sea level, this UNESCO World Heritage site is often referred to as "The Lost City of the Incas." It's one of the most familiar symbols of the Incan Empire and also one of the most famous and spectacular sets of ruins in the world. A visit to Peru would not be complete without visiting to witness this treasure for yourself! The story of Machu Picchu is quite interesting, it is still unknown exactly what the site was in terms of its place in Inca life. Current researchers tend to believe that Machu Picchu was a country resort for elite Incas. At any given time, there were no more than 750 people living at Machu Picchu, with far fewer than that during the rainy season. The Incas started building it around A.D. 1430, but it was abandoned as an official site for the Inca rulers a hundred years later at the time of the Spanish conquest of the Inca Empire.

One thing that is clear is that it was extremely well hidden and well protected. Located far up in the mountains of Peru, visitors had to travel up long valleys littered with Inca check points and watch towers. Remarkably, the Spanish conquistadors missed the site. These incredible ruins became known to the scientific world in 1911, after the American archaeologist Hiram Bingham was led to the site by locals (he was on a trip sponsored by the Yale University, actually looking for Vilacabamba, the last Inca hideout).

Day 1: Arrive in Guayaquil, a modern city and the major seaport of Ecuador. You will be met upon arrival and transferred to our hotel. As most flights arrive late in the day we will not meet as a group this evening, but the leader will be at the hotel to greet you.  No meals provided this day, as flights tend to arrive very late into the evening. Overnight Guayaquil.

Day 2: At breakfast we meet everyone. After a short orientation meeting we will begin our adventure with a quick tour of Guayaquil and a visit to the Cocoa Factory where we will learn about this indigenous plant, and why Ecuador has world class chocolate. We will enjoy a welcome dinner at our hotel. (B, L, D) Overnight Guayaquil.

Day 3: On to the Galapagos Islands. The flight to and from the Galapagos Islands is included in the trip price. Tickets for this flight will be issued to you at the Guayaquil Airport before we leave for the islands. After our flight from Guayaquil to Isla Baltra, we will meet our certified Galapagos guide at the airport. We will collect our luggage and go by bus to the ferry, then drive through the Island to Puerto Ayora. Along the way, we will visit the amazing cloud forest highlands, seeing our very first giant tortoises! Lunch in the Highlands. Then we continue to our hotel and have dinner at a local restaurant. (B, L, D) Overnight in a hotel on Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos.

Day 4: We move on to Isla Isabela , the largest Island in the archipelago, and the most beautiful. We get there via a Fast Boat (two and a half-hour ride). After hotel check-in, we will visit the lovely gardens at the Giant Turtle Center (Analdo Tupiza) where tortoises are protected in their first years of life before being released in the wild. Arnaldo Tupiza also has beautiful gardens. (B, L, D) Overnight in a hotel on Isabella Island, Galapagos.

Day 5: Today we visit two of Isabela’s six volcanoes. We start at the Ranger Station, about a 45 minute drive (3,000 foot above sea level), and gain about 700 feet during our hike. At Volcán Sierra Negra (elevation 3,688 ft), we will view the world’s second largest caldera – 6 miles wide and 300 feet deep. We walk along the rim for a short while. On a clear day, you get spectacular views. Then on Volcán Chico, we can see volcanic activity as we observe the fumaroles. You will notice a shocking difference in the landscape: from lush vegetation around Sierra Negra to the lava moon-scape area around Volcano Chico. Round trip is about ten miles. We walk through several different climate zones along the route. There are points along the route to stop and wait for the more ambitious hikers if you choose. After a bit of hiking and a picnic lunch, we will return to Puerto Villamil and relax or hang out at the beach to enjoy the views and wildlife. (B, L, D) Overnight in a hotel on Isabella Island, Galapagos.

Day 6: This morning visit Cabo Rosa, one of the best places to snorkel in the Galapagos.  There are lava formations, lava bridges and lava tunnels in the water that provide for a marine paradise in these crystal clear waters. This is a good spot to look for the unique flightless cormorant, golden rays, sea lions, sea turtles, and penguins. Today we explore Puerto Villamil (population about 2,300), situated along a stunning expanse of white beaches. A short walk to the nearby lagoon might reward us with sightings of flamingos, ducks and other water birds.  This is our last night on Isabela. (B, L, D) Overnight in a hotel on Isabella Island, Galapagos.

Day 7:  We will move back to Santa Cruz Island this morning, via a Fast Boat (two and a half-hour ride). All the while, searching the ocean for any interesting encounters such as dolphins, whales or turtles along the way. In the afternoon we visit Tortuga Bay, one of the most stunning beaches in the Galapagos, accessible only by foot and home to hundreds of prehistoric-looking marine iguanas, blue-footed boobies and pelicans. This beach also hosts turtles laying eggs. Dinner at a local restaurant. (B, L, D) Overnight in a hotel on Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos.

Day 8: After breakfast at our hotel, we must go to the airport, bid farewell to our Island Paradise and head back to Guayaquil. If time permits, we will be able to walk along the Malecón (River Walk) to stretch our legs. Dinner tonight is at the hotel where we prepare to depart for Peru in the morning. (B, L, D) Overnight in Guayaquil.

Day 9: On the move again. We depart for our international flight to Cusco, Peru (11,000 feet). This flight is included in the trip price. We'll spend the remainder of the day catching our breath -- literally -- as we get used to the altitude. This beautiful red-tile-roofed city was founded in the 12th-century by Manco Capac, the original Inca who was considered to be a child of the sun god himself. For almost 400 years, Cusco served as the flourishing capital of the Inca Empire and still retains its centuries-old appeal with numerous sections of original Inca stonework visible in the streets and buildings. The flight, going through customs in Lima, and catching the connecting flight to Cusco, will take the better part of a day. We can use this down time to review photos, catch up on journals, and just relax and anticipate our next adventure. We'll enjoy a dinner this evening at a local restaurant. (B, L, D) Overnight Cusco.

Day 10: We will tour the ancient city of Cusco, the former Inca capital. Then we take a bus to the nearby Sacred Valley with its endless views and stunning archaeology. We visit the Indian Market of Pisac, which attracts people from remote communities dressed in colorful, traditional attire. This region is well-known for high quality local crafts including hand knit wools, ceramics, leather goods and jewelry - all available in Pisac. Finally, we continue by bus to Ollantaytambo, which features an extensive archaeological site located on the imposing hillside overlooking the town, containing structures such as the Temple of the Sun and the Royal Hall. 

From here we take a train (included) from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo) where we will have dinner and spend two nights. (B, L, D) Overnight Aguas Calientes (also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo).

Day 11: A day in Machu Picchu. This will be a highlight. Our goal is to ride one of the first shuttles of the day up to the complex and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere before the first tourist train from Cusco arrives. Our knowledgeable guide will give us a tour of the ruins, explaining the current theories regarding the purpose and significance of the city. After the tour, you will have time to wander in this magnificent and sacred place -- maybe hike to the Gate of the Sun (Intipunku) or walk to the Inca Bridge. You may choose a challenging hike to the top of Huayna Picchu, the iconic peak that soars above Machu Picchu itself or Machu Picchu Mountain. (This requires a permit, and it is not included in the trip price. Permits can be obtained in advance, or may be available on-site). At their leisure, many participants just take photos of the ruins or of the llamas that frequent this area. You can stay as late as you want to enjoy the late-afternoon light on these unforgettable ruins. Or you can opt to return to the hotel, enjoy the local hot springs baths (not included), or visit the markets. Our tour of the ruins will require walking uneven stairs and grounds. This is at about 8,000 foot elevation. A big buffet lunch will fortify us during the day, provided at the restaurant at the base of the ruins. We have dinner tonight at our hotel. (B, L, D) Overnight Aguas Calientes (also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo).

Day 12: After breakfast, the morning is unstructured. You may want to shop at the many local shops, or just relax. You can also go back to Machu Picchu (second bus fare and admission not included). Lunch is at a local restaurant, and then we take the afternoon train back to Cusco. This evening, we are in for a treat: a cultural show with our farewell dinner that will have Peruvian dancers in complete costumes. (B, L, D) Overnight Cusco.

Day 13: Our trip ends after breakfast. You'll have the options of flying home, staying longer in Cusco, or visiting other places in beautiful Peru. We will say goodbye to our new Peruvian friends and reflect on the grand finale of our visit to Machu Picchu. Transfers will be provided to the airport on this day only. (B)

IMPORTANT NOTES:

Occasionally, changes may occur in the trip -- either in advance or during the trip. Please be aware that we will make every attempt to stay within this itinerary. However, we may need to make changes for a variety of reasons (weather, equipment, Galapagos National Park Services, Peru Park Services or other conditions) to assure the safety and enjoyment of the entire group. Please be flexible and respect the decision of the leader. The safety of the group is our number one concern.

While wildlife on the Galapagos Islands is tremendous, we cannot guarantee that you will see all species listed as examples.

Your passport must be valid for at least six months from the starting date of this trip. If you don't have a passport, apply for one as soon as possible. 

Getting There

Please note, the trip starts in Guayaquil, Ecuador (GYE) and ends in Cusco, Peru (CUZ). You need to arrive in Guayaquil, Ecuador on or before day one. Make your airline reservations with different start and end cities. Many airlines fly to both cities and allow "round-trip" excursions into one city and out of the other. Contact the leader before making your final arrangements.

The flight to/from Guayaquil/Galapagos Islands is included in the trip price. Tickets for this flight will be issued to you at the airport when you leave for the islands. The one way flight is also included from Guayaquil to Cusco.

The leader will send additional information to registered participants. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Although this is not a luxury trip, we will stay in charming, locally owned modern hotels. Rooms are double occupancy; if you come alone, we'll give you a same-gender roommate.

We'll travel by a combination of comfortable busses, trains, and flights.

The food will be delicious—a mix of local and continental dishes, with a variety of tropical fruits and vegetables. Vegetarians are welcome and can easily be accommodated. All meals and lodgings are provided.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is suitable for people who are in good health, get regular exercise, enjoy nature, and have a good-humored approach to traveling abroad—where things might not go as predictably as they do at home. Our trip is not strenuous, and can be considered leisurely to moderate most days. In the Galapagos, elevation gains and losses on most hikes are minimal and the pace is slow since we often stop to observe wildlife or listen to our guide explain the history, geology, or ecology. In Cusco and Machu Picchu, the higher elevation typically affects people, and the amount of planned activity is less. 

The expression “OSHA hasn’t been here” applies. As you know, Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) regulates safety standards in America. There is no OSHA in Ecuador or Peru. Even a walk in a progressive, busy city like Guayaquil or Cusco can be an adventure in itself. The streets are uneven and sometimes hilly. You will find sidewalks with unmarked holes, exposed wires and pipes that often will trip residents as well as visitors. Steep stairs may not have hand rails. For the Galapagos Islands, the trails are typically uneven, hilly, and rocky.  Some are on loose lava. In Peru, walking around the ruins is typically steep and uneven. 

You must have the ability and agility to handle transporting your own luggage to and from buses, trains, airports and boats. An incentive to pack light! You will be required to maneuver yourself and your gear sufficiently to board shuttle boats. You must be steady and sure-footed enough to negotiate the various transitions and walks this trip relies upon.

While we will stop often to view wildlife (Galapagos) or discuss the ruins (Peru), you will need to be able to keep up a walking pace that keeps the group together.

Equipment and Clothing

In the Galapagos, we have opportunities for snorkeling. Gear is not provided, but can be rented. To assure the best fit, you can bring your own. Some type of wet suit will help with comfort and warmth while snorkeling. A wet suit can also be rented. Bring your general casual clothing for warm weather hiking and boating in the Galapagos.

October is generally a great time to visit both Ecuador and Peru! We can expect Ecuador temperatures to range from 65-80, and in Peru, from 50-70. Perhaps because of its high elevation, Cuzco is one of those places where if you walk in the sun it is warm, but in the shade it is cool. Many days Cusco is partly cloudy. Machu Picchu can be cloudy in the morning, but sunny in the afternoon.

At night in both Ecuador and Peru it can get cool and you will need a sweater or jacket.

While it is not the rainy season, rain can fall at any time (especially the mountainous areas of Peru) and will not restrict our movements or our enjoyment of the activities. It is always a good idea to carry rain gear. 

No special equipment is required. However, binoculars and a camera are highly recommended.

The leader will carry a first-aid kit for emergency use. You should provide your own personal first-aid kit for minor needs such as bandages, Moleskin, insect repellent, sunscreen, etc. You should consult your physician for recommended current immunizations.

Your leader will provide a comprehensive packing list well in advance of the trip. The leader is available to answer any questions you may have about gear.

References

Books:

Galapagos:

• Angemeyer, Johanna, My Father's Island: A Galapagos Quest. About one of the German families that moved to the Galapagos. 
• Weiner, Jonathan, The Beak of the Finch: A Story of Evolution in Our Time. Good book that has modern research. 
• D'Orso, Michael, Plundering Paradise. This book discusses how the Galapagos changed over time, starting with the ancient ships stopping by to collect tortoises for meat on their voyage.
• Moore, Yui DeRoy, Galapagos Islands Lost in Time. Penguin Books.
• Brower, K., Galapagos: The Flow of Wildness. Sierra Club/Ballantine Books.
• Darwin, Charles, The Voyage of the Beagle. Doubleday Books.  
• Darwin, Charles, On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection. Provides an excellent understanding of the research done to establish Darwin’s theory of “survival of the fittest” or Natural Selection.
• Harris, M., Field Guide to the Birds of Galapagos. Taplinger Books.
• Schichor, Michael, Michael's Guide to Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela. Inbal Travel Ltd.
• Rachowiecki, Rob, Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands: A Travel Survival Kit. Lonely Planet Books.
• Jackson, Michael H., Galapagos: A Natural History Guide. This is the best general guide to the history, geology, and plant and animal life of the islands.
• Melville, Herman, The Piazza Tales. Darwin wasn't the only one to find inspiration in the Galápagos. During the whaling era, Herman Melville made landfall here, and he perpetuated the sailor's nickname: Los Encantadas or "The Enchanted Islands." Melville delivers a metaphor-rich, almost hallucinatory account of the archipelago's history, filled with misstatements, speculation, and poetry.
• Wittmer, Margret, Floreana: A Woman's Pilgrimage to the Galapagos. Some interesting stories about “the baroness” and the tails of her life on the islands.

Machu Picchu: 

• Wright, R. & Zegarra, A., The Machu Picchu Guidebook: A Self-Guided Tour. 2004. This is a good guide to the ruins of Machu Picchu and handy to have while at Machu Picchu.
• Reinhard, J., Machu Picchu: Exploring an Ancient Sacred Center, 4th ed. 2007. This guide is more focused on the cosmology of the Inca and Machu Picchu.
• Hemming, J., Monuments of the Incas, revised ed. 2010. A large-format coffee table-style book with beautiful black and white photographs and detailed descriptions of the archaeological sites we will see and many other Incan sites.
• Adams, M., Turn Right at Machu Picchu: Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time. 2012. A serious and humorous tale of adventure and archaeology.
• Bingham, H., The Lost City of the Incas, revised ed. 2003. A reprint of Bingham’s original account of his "discovery" of Machu Picchu with archival photographs. The book was originally published in 1948.
• Hemming, J., The Conquest of the Incas. 2003. An exhaustive and authoritative account of the Spanish conquest of Peru and the Incas.
• MacQuarrie, K., The Last Days of the Incas. 2008. Another perspective on the fall of the Incas. This book also discusses modern scholars evolving interpretations of Inca remains.
• Reinhard, J., Inca Rituals and Sacred Mountains: A Study of the World's Highest Archaeological Sites. 2010. An account of Reinhard’s recent discovery of incredibly well-preserved teenage mummies from an ancient Incan ritual that were found at the top of the Andes and are now on display in Salta, Argentina.
• Reinhard, J., The Ice Maiden: Inca Mummies, Mountain Gods, and Sacred Sites in the Andes. 2006. This is a description of Reinhard’s first stunning discovery of a well-preserved young woman from an ancient Incan rite that was found near the top of a Peruvian volcanic mountain and is now on display in Arequipa, Peru.
• Jenkins, D., The Rough Guide to Peru. 2012. One of many guides to Peru. The trip leader personally likes the Rough Guide series because they have a section called “Contexts” that gives a lucid overview of the history, economics, and politics of the country.
• Stewart, A., Inca Trail, Cusco & Machu Picchu, 5th ed. 2013. This Trailblazer book has descriptions of several treks in Peru.
• D. & Beletsky, Peru: Travelers’ Wildlife Guides. Pearson, 2008. A fine introduction to the ecology and wildlife of Peru, including a section on birds.
• Walker, B., The Birds of Machu Picchu and the Cusco Region: A Field Guide. 2005. There are about 1,000 species of birds in the areas we will visit. This is an introductory guide to the more common birds of the region.

Movies:

• The Incas Remembered (1986)
• The Great Inca Rebellion (2007) – National Geographic
• Ghosts of Machu Picchu (2009) – Nova

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmentally understanding parallel concerns at home and abroad.

Conservation problems exist even though the Galapagos National Park is protected and monitored by the Ecuadorian government. Buccaneers captured tens of thousands of tortoises for fresh meat on their voyages, bringing the population to the edge of extinction. Fur seals were exploited and nearly driven to extinction as well. Currently, a very serious problem is the killing of sharks for the ever-popular shark-fin soup in Asia.

The Galapagos has an unfortunate legacy of introduced animals and plants detrimental to the native creatures. Goats compete with native tortoises and iguanas, making food less available and destroying native vegetation. Predators, such as rats, dogs, and cats have seriously depleted native populations by killing native animals and raiding the nests of the birds, iguanas, and tortoises. Introduced plants have spread, particularly in the moist highlands, and compete with native vegetation. People have hunted large numbers of animals in the past and have cleared great areas of native vegetation for agriculture and ranching purposes. The Darwin Research Center has been actively trying to boost the threatened populations of endangered species. Tortoise nests are protected, and eggs and young are brought to Santa Cruz to be raised in captivity, released once they are no longer susceptible to predation.

Tourism in this area of Peru has been a mixed blessing, especially with the increase in popularity of Machu Picchu. On one hand, it accounts for much of the economy and provides jobs for many of the local people. However, it has also led to widespread exploitation of labor and the environment, including a troublesome trash disposal problem on popular trekking routes and damage to the Machu Picchu ruins. We will discuss how tourism can be used as a source for economic and community development, and the steps that some organizations are taking to promote more ecologically friendly tourism.