Halfway Around Kanchenjunga, Nepal

The Trip

In far-eastern Nepal on the border with Sikkim stands 28,200-foot-high Mt. Kanchenjunga, the third-highest peak in the world. This 24-day challenging trek, arguably the most spectacular in Nepal, circles the western half of the mountain visiting both the north and south base camps. Hiking an elevation range of 3,000 to nearly 17,000 feet, we'll travel through steamy jungles, oak and rhododendron forest, and alpine tundra while being immersed in a variety of cultures unique to each habitat. Traveling expedition-style means hiking with only a daypack while our cheerful Nepali staff guide, cook, and set up our tents at our scenic campsites. The lack of lodges on this route and difficulty of logistics into the area means we'll see few other trekkers while having an authentic Nepali experience. 

After two days in Kathmandu, it will take a day and a half via airplane and bus to get to the starting point of our trek at Taplejung. Within a day away from the roadhead, we'll find ourselves in a lightly populated, primitive area where people live a simple life with few resources. The rural landscape is dotted with Limbu, Rai, and Sherpa villages as we hike through cardamom fields, dense forests, and beautiful pastures. As we climb higher, stunning waterfalls tumble over steep cliffs as we reach Tibetan and Sherpa settlements on our way to Pangpema, or north base camp at 16,900 feet. Circling around the mountain, we cross three passes over 14,500 feet on our way to Oktang, or south base camp, where the three main summits of Kanchenjunga may be seen. The steepness and volatility of the glaciers here make seeing avalanches at a distance a real possibility. Hiking out via a different route, we'll descend through rhododendron forests into lush, terraced hillsides highlighted with colorful, prosperous villages. 

While most people come to Nepal to trek on the roof of the world, they are surprised to learn that the cultures of its many ethnic groups are at least as interesting. Traveling close to the land and the people as we will, we'll see firsthand how these rural Nepalis must live sustainably. We'll see how micro-hydropower and solar improve their lifestyle and we'll constantly question the positive and negative aspects of tourism. Nepal's true treasure is the warmth and hospitality of its people and this trek offers the opportunity to bond with our staff and experience their homeland more as a local than a tourist. The sirdar, or head guide and trek organizer, is the leader's husband of 20 years so with their staff of extended family and villagers, the expedition feels more like one large traveling family. Indeed this is the trip of a lifetime, but the joy and friendliness of the Nepalese people will beckon you to return again and again!

Travel in Nepal is still truly adventurous. Although we will try to adhere to a daily itinerary, please embrace any changes that may have to be made due to weather, trail conditions, ability of the group, or the serendipity of the unexpected. This is what makes adventure travel fun and enhances your experience.

Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu. Transfer to our hotel. Trip orientation, then enjoy a Welcome dinner of traditional Nepali fare.

Day 2: Kathmandu. Dawn warm-up walk up 300 feet of stairs to Swayambunath, the Monkey Temple. City tour of the Hindu world of Pashupatinath, then enter the Buddhist world at Bodnath, one of the largest stupas in the world. Dinner at a fine Indian restaurant.

Days 3-4: Kathmandu-Taplejung-Mitlung. Fly to the Terai town of Bhadrapur, then bus through the tea plantations of Ilam and up mountains to a lodge overnight. Continue to Taplejung at 6,000 feet, then start trekking, descending 3,000 feet. Camp at Mitlung along the Tamur River, elevation 3,000 feet; our first night in tents.

Day 5: Mitlung-Chirwa. Warm, humid hike along the Tamur River with many steep climbs and descents on wet, slippery trail. Net gain of 1,300 feet to our big, shady campsite just beyond Chirwa at 4,300 feet.

Day 6: Chirwa-Sekathum. More steep up and down hiking in the morning along the Tamur River. The trail flattens and improves after crossing the river with large, flat rocks paving the way. Cross the river again above the confluence with the Ghunsa Khola (river) to have an early arrival at our meadow camp below Sekathum. Net gain of 1,200 feet to 5,500 feet.

Day 7: Sekathum-Amjilosa. Cross the Ghunsa Khola on a good suspension bridge and follow it up on variable trail conditions –- some good, while others are narrow and steep with loose rock and exposure. Cross the river again where it shoots out from a narrow chute. Net climb is 2,800 feet to camp at Amjilosa, 8,300 feet. 

Day 8: Amjilosa-Gyabla. Start with a steep up just to come down again on slippery, steep, muddy trail. Climb 700 feet after lunch to an early camp in a large dzo-kyo (cow-yak half-breed) pasture abloom with pearly everlastings at 9,000 feet. Beautiful waterfall across the river as we're above the heat and humidity now.

Day 9: Gyabla-Ghunsa. Ascend 2,600 feet today starting on rough trail, including a rockfall section. Then the narrow valley opens up to yak pastures, yaks, and Tibetan villages. The grade eases through rhododendron, oak, and larch forests turning golden. Cross the river at Ghunsa, the largest village of the area with electricity, shops, and a post office. Camp here at 11,600 feet for two nights.

Day 10: Ghunsa. Layover day for acclimatizing, hot showers available to buy. We will do a morning hike to a ridge 1,500 feet above the village, then explore the village in the afternoon.

Day 11: Ghunsa-Khambachen. Continuing up along the Ghunsa Khola, the grade is gradual until after lunch, then it becomes steep with a long, sandy landslide section. The hillsides golden with larches and bright red barberry bushes hug the river. Reach camp at the small village of Khambachen at 13,600 feet after 2,000 feet of gain. This is camp for two nights.

Day 12: Khambachen. Spend another layover day acclimatizing and hiking up the Nupchu Khola, a tributary of the Ghunsa Khola, toward the Nupchu Glacier. Mount Jannu, or Kumbhakharna, 25,300 feet, can be seen from the campsite.

Day 13: Khambachen-Lhonak. The Ghunsa Khola gets narrower as we continue up gently at first, then negotiate a landslide area of boulder-hopping. A short, steep up brings us to a flat plateau where blue sheep may be seen above the trail. The valley narrows and the mountainsides get steeper as avalanches from glaciers may be be seen across the river. A few more short climbs and we arrive at camp at Lhonak, 15,700 feet, after 2,100 feet of ascent. Some ramshackle shelters mark this large yak pasture surrounded by peaks. This is camp for two nights.

Day 14: Lhonak. Layover day to achieve the first goal of the trek –- a dayhike to Pangpema, aka Kanchenjunga North Base Camp at 16,900 feet, a climb of 1,200 feet. We hike above the Kanchenjunga Glacier over many ups and downs until we reach the base camp where Kanchenjunga finally shows itself along with the Twins, Nepal Peak, and Tent Peak. An early morning departure is planned before clouds obscure the view in the afternoon.

Days 15-16: Lhonak-Ghunsa. Retrace our steps back to Ghunsa, 11,600 feet, and spend a night in Khambachen, 13,600 feet. A descent of 4,100 feet over two days.

Day 17: Ghunsa-Sele La. Depart Ghunsa to the east on our way to South Base Camp. First, we climb nearly 1,600 feet of very steep trail to the first pass. Then we continue along the ridge, climbing in and out of valleys until we reach the Sele La, our 14,100 foot pass, for a total gain of 2,500 feet. In 45 minutes we reach a poor, waterlogged camp, the only spot possible.

Day 18: Sele La-Tseram. A 6:00 a.m. start is planned for this long day over three passes greater than 14,500 feet. The first is a slow slog up 1,400 feet to Sinion La at 14,563 feet with good views of the other side of Jannu. After a slight descent, the next is Mirgin La at 14,700 feet. The last pass is Sinelapche La at 15,220 feet on a long, gentle ascent. Then it's 2,500 feet down to camp at Tseram, a scenic, pleasant campsite at 12,700 feet.

Day 19: Tseram-Ramche. Ascend 2,300 gradual feet to Ramche at 15,000 feet; first along the Simbuwa Khola, then above the Yalung Glacier. Rest this afternoon in this charming settlement.

Day 20: Ramche-Oktang-Whata. Spend the morning ascending another 500 feet to Oktang, aka Yalung or Kanchenjunga South Base Camp at 15,500 feet. We'll see the East Kumbhakarna Glacier flowing down Jannu and the three peaks of Kanchenjunga, the highest at 28,200 feet. Then we retrace our route down past Tseram to camp at the lovely pastures of Whata at 11,050 feet, a descent of 4,450 feet.

Day 21: Whata-Lamite Bhanjyang. Continue descending 1,550 feet down the Simbuwa Khola through enchanted fir, rhododendron, and oak forest draped with hanging strands of lichens and spongy pads of moss, then cross below Tortong at 9,500 feet. Climb a steep, seemingly endless rock-step trail up 1,800 feet, coming out above the pass called Lamite Bhanjyang. A steep, slippery 300-foot descent brings us to a large, meadow camp at the pass at 11,000 feet.

Day 22: Lamite Bhanjyang-Sherpagaon. Descend a steep, but well-built rock-step trail down 3,000 feet to cross the Amji Khola at 8,000 feet. Hike good trail up 800 feet to Dhupi Bhanjyang and contour along the ridge to camp at Sherpagaon at about 8,000 feet.

Day 23: Sherpagaon-Khebang. Continuing to contour along the hillside, we meet the steep trail up to Ghatichhinne Bhanjyang, which ascends to 6,500 feet. We descend through a beautiful forest of blooming pink orchids before starting the climb up the next pass, the Ekchana La at 6,800 feet. Humane downhill to Khebang has well-designed rock steps. Descend into lush, fertile valleys with colorful homes framed with bright flower gardens. Khebang, at 5,700 feet, is a large, prosperous village and our camp, a half-hour beyond, is on a beautiful terrace with stunning views of these valleys.  

Day 24: Khebang-Panchami. This is a long day of steep descents on large rock steps down a total of 3,000 feet. We meet a dirt road and alternate that with steep shortcuts to cut off long road switchbacks. It's warm and humid again camping below the charming village of Panchami along the Kabeli Khola at 2,700 feet. This is our last night in tents.

Days 25-26: Panchami-Thorpu-Kathmandu. The last climb of the trek is a rigorous 1,600-foot ascent to the top of the hill where the bus town of Thorpu is at 4,300 feet. There we meet our bus, which takes us back down the mountains and we overnight in the famous tea-growing town of Ilam. A short drive the next morning takes us to Bhadrapur for the flight back to Kathmandu.

Day 27: Kathmandu. Take guided tours of the ancient cities of Patan and Bhaktapur. Patan's museum is well worth visiting and the peace and quiet in old Bhaktapur is like going back in time. We'll honor our trekking staff at our Farewell dinner at a favorite Thamel restaurant.

Day 28: Depart Kathmandu. Decompress over breakfast at a restaurant serving American favorites before transferring to the airport for flights home.

Getting There

You will need to make your own flight arrangements to and from Kathmandu, Nepal. You may wish to take advantage of the services of our Nepali travel agent who has been booking flights for members of Sierra Club Asian treks for many years. The leader will provide contact information in a future trip bulletin. Trip dates are arrival to and departure from Kathmandu. You will need to depart your city two days earlier to account for losing a day crossing the International Date Line. All participants will be picked up at the airport upon their arrival.

You must have a passport valid for at least six months beyond the date of exiting Nepal. A Nepal visa is also required and details to apply for that will be provided later.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Double-occupancy rooms in Kathmandu are included with the trip. Our hotel features rooms with private baths and hot showers. It's centrally located within walking distance of many temples and shops, plus it's staffed by friendly, English-speaking folks. Although not fancy, it is clean with lovely gardens to relax in.

On trek, two people will share four-person Eureka Outfitter tents that offer plenty of room for folks and their duffels. Our guides set them up and take them down at each camp. A small amount of hot water is provided each morning for washing and a toilet tent will be set up at each camp for privacy.  Boiled water and tea will be available at all meals and water purification will be provided for treating your drinking water. Buying bottled water is discouraged as the bottles are rarely recycled and end up along the trails.

Meals in Kathmandu will be in restaurants catering to Western tastes and hygiene. On trek, our kitchen staff prepares hot breakfasts, dinners, AND lunches. Meals feature Nepali, Tibetan, and Western specialties. Vegetarians are easy to accommodate since dal bhat (lentils and rice) is the Nepali staple and prepared at every meal. Any other food restrictions should be indicated to the leader as far in advance as possible. Our staff is well trained in preparing meals according to Western standards of hygiene.

Trip Difficulty

This trek is considered strenuous with several long, difficult hiking days and extended time spent at high elevation. Daily elevation gains and losses could be as much as 3,000 feet on steep, rocky, slippery trail. Depending on weather conditions, trails could also be muddy or snowy. The highest mandatory altitude is 15,700 feet at Lhonak, which is also our highest camp. You should be in excellent physical condition to do this trek with recent hiking experience above 10,000 feet; the higher the better. This route may require hiking on snow, scree, and boulders so please be realistic in assessing your ability to accomplish this in brutal cold and the thin air of altitude. Recommendations for an adequate conditioning regime will be provided in a future bulletin to approved trip members.

Fall is the ideal time to trek in Nepal with typically dry, clear weather. Rain is infrequent and usually only lasts a day. However, mountains create their own weather and rain, snow, or a surprise storm can happen unexpectedly anytime. Daytime temperatures of 50-75 degrees can be expected depending on elevation, and nighttime temperatures may go down to the 20s at our high camps. Ultra-violet rays from the sun are especially strong above 10,000 feet so long pants, long-sleeved shirts, and high-value SPF sunscreen and lip balm are essential.

Although porters will carry most of your gear, you will need to carry what you need for the day in a daypack weighing up to 15 pounds. You are encouraged to hike at your own pace, stopping when you wish for photography or other interests. We will have English-speaking sherpa guides hiking with us to keep us from getting lost. You should be comfortable hiking 3-4 hours in the morning and 2-3 hours in the afternoon after about an hour and a half break for lunch. Because of the rough nature and steepness of the trails, hiking poles are strongly recommended. Microspikes (mini-crampons for your boots) will help in negotiating snow and ice.

As important as your physical conditioning is your mental preparation. The more you familiarize yourself with Nepal before the trip, the more you will be able to absorb and enjoy once you get there. The books in the reference section would be a good starting point. Also, flexibility, patience, and a spirit of adventure are necessary. You should be comfortable traveling in close proximity with a group of people and be able to adapt easily to changing conditions. This trip will be especially enjoyable for those who have an open mind and are eager to embrace new cultures and experiences.

Equipment and Clothing

A detailed equipment list will be sent to approved trip participants. Your personal gear should be packed in a soft duffel bag; no hard-frame packs or suitcases. Duffel weight is limited to 22 pounds since each porter will carry three of these. What you carry in your daypack is not counted in your duffel weight.

References

Books:

The following books should give you a feel for what the trek will be like. Your local library is also a good resource. 

• Mayhew, Bradley, and Joe Bindloss, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya.
• Mayhew, Bradley, Joe Bindloss, and Trent Holden, Nepal.
• Reynolds, Kev, Kanchenjunga: A Trekker's Guide.
• Insights Guides, Nepal.
• Boustead, Robin, Nepal Trekking and the Great Himalayan Trail.

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused organization. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmental concerns at home and abroad. 

Nepal suffers from the same ecological problems common to most of the third world: a growing population, deforestation, erosion, pollution, lack of clean water, and the melting of glaciers. We will observe firsthand the positive and negative influence of Western culture on a traditional society.  We will be confronted with troubling dilemmas arising from our presence; we provide an important source of income, but impact their resources and lifestyle. Some of us will question many of our attitudes, particularly our inequitable consumption of the world's resources. Perhaps these experiences will make us better world citizens and involve us actively in searching for a more balanced and sustainable way of life for all of us on this planet. The Nepali people have much to learn from our successes and mistakes; we have much to learn from their spirit and positive attitude. Those of us perceptive and wise enough to open our hearts and minds will come away with a new awareness of the world and the way we live in it.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.