From the Sea to the Mountains: Hiking across Northern Greece

The Trip

Northwest Greece is a hidden gem; a gorgeous, scenic corner of Greece and a window to the past where life continues as it has for centuries, untouched by modern-day existence. Our first destination is Corfu, the second-largest of the Ionian islands, with its miles of forested trails and pristine white beaches. It is the perfect place to recover from jet lag, take a hike, relax, and swim in the warm, azure waters of the Mediterranean Sea. 

From here we take a ferry and bus to Zagoria and Vikos-Aoos National Park. Zagoria -- whose name is derived from the Slavic language and means "the place behind the mountains" -- is part of the massive Pindos range. It is one of the least densely populated areas of Greece and one of the most beautiful. 

The villages of ancient stone houses are extraordinarily pretty and linked by traditional cobbled paths. But the "jewel in the crown" of the area is Vikos Gorge in the national park, which is one of the deepest gorges in the world and home to more than 1,000 species of plants. Traversed by paths and cobbled steps, the gorge features spectacular river crossings on traditional wooden bridges.

Next we travel to the famed medieval monasteries of Meteora (the name means "suspended in the air"), perched on impressive sandstone rock pinnacles that reach to the sky and are a wonderful hiking area. Our final destination is Olympus National Park and the slopes of Mt Olympus (Mountain of the Gods) for a last hike to explore a spectacular canyon full of pools, waterfalls, and strange geological formations. 

Day 1: Arrive in Corfu by the afternoon. We will have an orientation meeting and a welcome dinner of traditional Greek food. Overnight: Corfu.

Day 2: We will hike in the area of Palaikastritsa, walking on old mule tracks, through olive groves and orchards, and past charming villages with stunning coastal views. Weather permitting, we'll have plenty of time to swim. (5 miles, 200-foot ascent and descent) Overnight: Corfu.

Day 3: Today we will visit the ancient monastery and gardens on the summit of Mt Pantokratoras. Afterward we'll take a gentle, downhill hike to visit the abandoned village of Perithia, with free time to explore and enjoy the scenery. (6 miles, 300-foot descent) Overnight: Corfu.

Day 4: Today we will take a one-hour ferry ride from Corfu to the mainland, then a two-hour bus ride to the mountains and Zagoria, our new home. On the way, we will visit ancient Ioannina, a city by Lake Pamvotis and home to a large Turkish community for hundreds of years. Then we will take a small ferry for 15 minutes to the islet of Ali Pasha to see the monastery of Agios Panteleimon and explore the local shops and handicrafts. Overnight: Papingo.

Day 5: Our first walk in Zagoria! First, we'll take a mile-long, flat hike to Beloi viewpoint for a dramatic view of the Vikos Gorge. Then we'll go down to Kapesova village via the famous Vradetou stone steps or "scale," which were built in the 16th century. This was the traditional path for traveling from village to village, using donkeys to carry goods. We will have a magnificent lunch in the delightful, small village of Kipi, then continue on the stone walking path to the unique medieval stone bridge with three arches. There are many of these bridges in the area, each totally different, and we will stop to see others on the way. (7 miles, 500-foot descent) Overnight: Papingo.

Day 6: A fantastic day -- hiking the Vikos Gorge! From the hotel we will walk down an ancient hiking path into the gorge, then traverse the ravine on the sandy trail by the river, looking for rare species of flowers and birds that live in this special and unique ecosystem. In the canyon, limestone walls up to 3,000 feet high tower above us, as we follow the river through the woodlands. We climb out of the canyon at the low point in the canyon walls, ascending 1,000 feet by stone steps to the local village. (10 miles, 500-foot descent and 1,000-foot ascent) Overnight: Papingo.

Day 7: Today the bus will take us to hike the Aoos Gorge, a lush canyon with a gradual uphill climb on a gravel track by the river, then to a monastery with a solitary monk in residence. Outstanding views down the canyon can be seen from the monastery. (5 miles, 600-foot ascent and descent) Overnight: Papingo.

Day 8: Today we will walk to the scenic route to Mikro Papingo to see the Bistyries caves on the other side of the gorge, which were inhabited in Neolithic times. Back on the trail, we continue to the flower-filled Kokkino Lithari corner -- a huge, grass-covered rock shelf high above the Vikos gorge offering breathtaking views toward the snow-capped mountains of Albania. There we’ll have lunch then continue on our path for an hour to the beautiful 14th-century village of Mikro Papingo. After exploring the village, we'll continue to the gorge of Rogovo with its unique ‘kolimbithres' -- a small gorge with cold running water that formed little pools, a great place for a relaxing bath! Overnight: Papingo.

Day 9: We'll take a fabulous walk from our hotel to a mountain pass, enjoying views of the surrounding mountains and the distant ranges of Albania. The trail is wide and nicely graded in its ascent and there are shelters and seats at every mile. At the summit, an optional hike will be offered further into the mountains to Dragon Lake (another 4 miles round trip). (6 miles, 2,700-foot ascent and descent; optional 4 miles, 500-foot ascent and descent) Overnight: Papingo.

Day 10: We will leave early this morning to visit the dramatically situated Monasteries of St. Barbara and Holy Trinity in Meteora. We will hike up the cliff on an old trail first used by monks and supplicants. (3 miles, 1,000-foot ascent) Overnight: Litchoria.

Day 11: Our bus will take us to our final hiking destination, Enipeas Gorge. We will spend the day there enjoying the natural beauty, cascading water, and rock formations as we walk mostly downhill. (10 miles, 2,800-foot descent) Overnight: Litchoria.

Day 12: The trip ends after breakfast. The bus will pick us up and take us to Thessaloniki airport where we bid our farewells. Flights back to the U.S. will go through Athens. You might want to consider staying in this wonderful city to visit its many archaeological sites, with a possible day trip to Delphi.

Getting There

Participants will need to book a "multi-city" flight, arriving in Corfu and departing from Thessalonika. All flights will go through Athens. Arrival time should be by mid afternoon of the first day of the trip, and departure time can be any time on the last day.

Accommodations and Food

We will be staying in small, locally owned inns, hotels, and guest houses. Rooms will be shared, with private bathrooms.

Greek food is delicious, locally sourced, and seasonal, and we can easily accommodate vegetarians but not vegans. We will eat lunches in local tavernas and dinners in our hotels, tasting traditional Greek food and regional dishes. And you CAN drink the water!

Trip Difficulty

The trip is appropriate for anyone who is active and in good shape, loves to hike, and enjoys local history and culture. The hikes range from easy to moderate difficulty and it is possible to take the "day off" if you wish to do so. The most difficult hike is the last hike in Epineas Gorge, but we will take it slowly and enjoy the journey!

Equipment and Clothing

All approved participants will be sent a comprehensive packing list, but hiking clothing, boots, and daypacks will be the same as you would wear to hike at home.

References

Movies:

All these movies will give you a "feel" for the culture, scenery and community life in Greece.

• "Zorba the Greek"
• "Captain Corelli’s Mandolin"
• "The Bourne Identity"
• "High Season"
• "For Your Eyes Only." James Bond hang glides over the Meteora monasteries!
• "The Durrells in Corfu" (PBS series). The famous English naturalist, Gerald Durrell, was brought up in Corfu, where, as a child, he became fascinated by animals and natural history. He grew up to become a naturalist and environmentalist and founded an animal reserve on the island of Jersey that has a breeding program for endangered species.

Books:

• Durrell, Gerald, My Life and Other Animals.
• Thomas, Carol G., Greece; a Short History of a Long Story, 7000 BCE to the Present.
• Any travel guidebook for Greece: Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, Rick Steves, DK Eyewitness, etc.

Conservation

A comprehensive study of the Greek environment over the last decade (2000-2010), has shown that there has been significant environmental degradation of water, air, and coastal ecosystems and loss of biodiversity, with little or no regulation of the factors that impact these issues. As tourism and ecotourism become more and more important in Greece, the impacts from this become more and more of an issue, particularly on islands where environmental degradation effects are magnified. As Greece does not have any significant industry, tourism is a huge financial factor in an economy that is struggling to survive. We will discuss this and look at ways that change may be implemented.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.