Journey Through Evolution: North Lake to South Lake, Kings Canyon National Park, California

The Trip

"How glorious a greeting the sun gives the mountains! To behold this alone is worth the pains of any excursion a thousand times over." - John Muir

This eight-day journey into the very heart of the Sierra will allow you time to enjoy the stunning beauty of this section of the "Range of Light." Our trip will take us from the abrupt escarpment of the east side of the Sierra down to the floor of the South Fork of the San Joaquin River, then up and into the centerpiece of our trip, Evolution Basin. This part of the Sierra is renowned for rugged peaks, endless granite, dramatic vistas, and refreshing lakes. The itinerary is planned to allow for a layover day in the Evolution Basin region, where we'll hike beneath amazing granite peaks named for Darwin, Huxley, and other great evolutionary thinkers. Fittingly, the area provokes thoughts of the natural forces that brought about the landscape and life within it. Our 52-mile route, all on trails, makes an almost complete loop as we travel from North Lake to South Lake, with the majority of campsites located at or above tree line. A planned layover day will offer freedom to join a challenging hike, wander off to nearby lakes, or just stretch out on a warm slab of granite for an afternoon nap.

The itinerary described here should be taken as a general plan; the actual route and schedule may well be different. How far we get each day and where we camp depends on the weather, how we feel, and other factors outside of our control. Flexibility is important.

Day 1: We'll meet at 3:00 p.m. at our campground near North Lake. After introductions, we will review personal gear, divide up the group commissary, and take care of any last-minute details. We’ll continue getting to know each other over dinner, then will shuttle cars to the South Lake trailhead.

Day 2: North Lake to Muriel Lake. After breakfast, we begin our hike at Piute trailhead (9,400 feet). We'll ascend, first through aspens then lodgepole pines, to enter an open glaciated canyon. We’ll pass several lakes, eventually crossing Piute Pass, with great views into Humphreys Basin. Then we'll traverse over to beautiful Muriel Lake, where we’ll make our first camp. Distance: 5 miles. Elevation gain: 2,000 feet. Elevation loss: 250 feet. Campsite elevation: 11,400 feet.

Day 3: Muriel Lake to Hutchinson Meadow. We descend from the stark granite landscape down Piute Canyon along Piute Creek, camping near Hutchinson Meadow. Distance: 7 miles. Elevation gain: 300 feet. Elevation loss: 2,250 feet. Campsite elevation: 9,400 feet.

Day 4: Hutchinson Meadow to Evolution Meadow. On this long day, we hike down to the South Fork of the San Joaquin River and enter Kings Canyon National Park. Here we will pick up the John Muir Trail, which we will follow for the next several days. We’ll camp at Evolution Creek. Distance: 10 miles. Elevation gain: 2,000 feet. Elevation loss: 2,150 feet. Campsite elevation: 9,300 feet.

Day 5: Evolution Meadow to Evolution Basin. Walking along Evolution Creek, we'll pass through McClure and Colby meadows and ascend through Evolution Valley to Evolution Basin, where we will camp for the next two days near Sapphire Lake. Distance: 7.5 miles. Elevation gain: 2,350 feet. Elevation loss: 650 feet. Campsite elevation: 11,000 feet.

Day 6: Evolution Basin. This will be a layover day to explore the area or relax. Opportunities to explore include Darwin Bench, McGee Lakes Pass to McGee Lakes, or any of the unnamed lakes above Sapphire Lake.

Day 7: Evolution Basin to Big Pete Meadow. A big day is in store as we continue on the John Muir Trail and climb to the 11,955-foot crest of the Muir Pass. On the pass sits the stone hut that was built by Sierra Club members in John Muir's honor, which was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2016. We will pass Lake Helen (named for Muir's second daughter) on the way to our camping spot at Big Pete Meadow along the Middle Fork of the Kings River in Upper Le Conte Canyon. Distance: 9.5 miles. Elevation gain: 1,500 feet. Elevation loss: 3,200 feet. Campsite elevation: 9,300 feet.

Day 8: Big Pete Meadow to Dusy Basin. We continue descending glacier-carved Le Conte Canyon until reaching the Bishop Pass Trail, where we’ll climb into stunning Dusy Basin and our final campsite. Distance: 7 miles. Elevation gain: 3,000 feet. Elevation loss: 800 feet. Campsite elevation: 11,500 feet.

Day 9: Dusy Basin to South Lake. Our final day’s hike takes us over Bishop Pass (11,970 feet) and descends past a series of high alpine lakes along Bishop Creek to the South Lake trailhead. Our goal is to arrive at the South Lake trailhead and our vehicles by early afternoon. Distance: 6 miles. Elevation gain: 1,300 feet. Elevation loss: 2,700 feet.

Getting There

We begin our hike at North Lake trailhead, which is located about 20 miles west of Bishop, CA. We finish at the South Lake trailhead, fewer than 10 miles away by road. Bishop is on the east side of the Sierra Nevada, about 200 miles from Reno, 265 miles from either Las Vegas or Los Angeles, and 300 miles from San Francisco. Trip members arriving from other parts of the country should explore the option of flying to one of these major cities and sharing a rental car or arranging a ride. We will send a trip roster to all participants well before the trip in order to help facilitate ride sharing. Specific driving directions will also be sent before departure.

All meals and snacks will be provided, beginning with breakfast at the campground on the first day through lunch on the final day. We will offer a variety of nutritious, easy to prepare meals. Vegetarians can be easily accommodated, but participants unable to eat either dairy or gluten should consider another outing. Since all food must fit into bear canisters, we ask that participants not bring their own food.  

Accommodations and Food

We will meet at a campground near the North Lake trailhead, where we will have introductions, review personal gear, and set up a short car shuttle. Dinner will be potluck or at a nearby restaurant (not included in the price of the trip).

All meals and snacks will be provided, beginning with breakfast at the campground on the first day through lunch on the final day. We will offer a variety of nutritious, easy-to-prepare meals. Vegetarians can be easily accommodated, but participants unable to eat either dairy or gluten should consider another outing. Since all food must fit into bear canisters, we ask that participants not bring their own food.

Participants will be responsible for bringing their own toilet paper and method of water purification (chlorine tablets, filter, steri-pen, etc.).

Cooking and clean-up duties will be shared by all participants on a pre-assigned basis.

Trip Difficulty

The trip is rated 4 on a scale of 1–5 -- where 1 denotes the least difficult and 5 the most difficult. The trip is intended for experienced backpackers who are comfortable carrying weighted packs at high altitudes. We will hike 52 miles (between 6 and 10 miles per day) mostly above 10,000 feet, with passes near 12,000 feet. The total elevation gain and loss will be about 13,000 feet and 12,500 feet, respectively. Possible snow pack through the passes and high water levels at stream crossings can add significantly to the physical demands of the trip. 

Participants must have the ability (demonstrated by previous experience) to hike at high altitude with a fully loaded backpack. In addition to your personal equipment, you will be expected to carry up to 18 pounds of group gear and food. It is essential that all participants maintain a year round exercise routine and commit to a pre-trip training program starting at least two months in advance that includes carrying a loaded pack on mountain trails for distances up to 10 miles. Because of the altitude, the leader requests that you spend at least three nights at altitude prior to the first hiking day to help you acclimatize. One of those nights will be at our campground at North Lake. The leader can give you advice on how to prepare for this adventure, so that you and others can fully enjoy it.

While we may arrive on this journey as individuals we are a team during the hike in the wilderness. This requires all participants to be mentally and physically prepared for the demands of backpacking. Flexibility is essential and is a requirement for this trip. 

Equipment and Clothing

In addition to food, the Sierra Club will also provide cooking gear (stove, fuel, lightweight pots, and pans), an emergency first-aid kit, a tarp, and bear-proof canisters for storing food and toiletries. You are responsible for providing and carrying your own camping gear, clothing, toilet paper, and water purification method. Because you will be carrying up to 18 pounds of commissary gear and food, it is essential that your personal equipment weigh as little as possible for a total (before group gear) of 20 pounds or less.

If you do not have a light-weight pack, tent, and sleeping bag suitable for high altitudes, you might want to consider purchasing new equipment. The leader can give you advice about suitable gear, and stores such as REI provide details about many light weight options even if you choose to purchase or rent equipment elsewhere.

The following is a list of required and optional clothing and gear.

Required:

• Backpack (internal or external frame)
• Comfortable, well-broken-in hiking boots that provide good ankle support
• Sleeping bag (temperature rating 25°F or below)
• Sleeping pad (foam or ThermaRest)
• Light weight tent with rain fly and ground cloth
• Water proof rain gear (pants, jacket, pack cover)
• Fleece or wool jacket
• Warm hat, gloves or mittens
• Hiking or running shorts and/or lightweight synthetic pants (one to two pairs), no cotton (e.g. jeans)
• Light or mid-weight synthetic long-sleeved shirt (no cotton)
• T-shirt
• Change of underwear
• Long underwear
• At least one change of socks
• Sun protection (sunglasses + sunscreen with SPF 20 or above + sun hat)
• Personal first-aid kit (moleskin or adhesive tape for blister treatment, Tylenol)
• Personal toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste, biodegradable soap, toilet paper). Women should bring extra tampons, even if it is not the time of your regular period.
• Water purification tablets
• Light weight eating utensils (plate, cup, spoon, fork)
• Insect repellent
• Water containers (two liters minimum)
• Lightweight headlamp or flashlight
• Map
• Whistle

Optional:

• Waterproof sandals (nice in camp or for stream crossings)
• Bandana or handkerchief
• Head net (for insects)
• Bathing suit
• Hiking poles
• Lightweight camera
• Water filter or purifier if you do not want to use chlorine tablets

For more information, please refer to: http://www.knapsack.org/basic_equipment.html/.

References

Maps:

• The Bishop Pass Trail Map published by Tom Harrison Maps (http://www.tomharrisonmaps.com/), covers the complete route.
• Seven USGS 7.5-Minute Quadrangle Maps: Mt. Thompson, North Palisade, Mt. Goddard, Mt. Darwin, Mt. Henry, Mt. Hilgard, Mt. Tom.

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward greater understanding, advocacy, and participation in the goals of the Club.

Much of our trip will be along the Pacific Crest Trail, where the number of users has soared in recent years. Some are supplied by commercial packing services, which utilize mules and horses to carry supplies to remote locations. There is continual controversy over the use of pack animals in the High Sierra, focused on damage to trails, water sources, and fragile landscapes. During our trip we will discuss impacts of commercial activities and the recreation industry in general on wilderness. In addition, we will discuss the responsibility of the National Park Service to provide wilderness stewardship as required by the 1964 Wilderness Act.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.