Kayaking Coastal Carolina, South Carolina

The Trip

“Charleston has a landscape that encourages intimacy and partisanship. I have heard it said that an inoculation to the sights and smells of the Carolina Low Country is an almost irreversible antidote to the charms of other landscapes, other alien geographies. You can be moved profoundly by other vistas, by other oceans, by soaring mountain ranges, but you can never be seduced. You can even forsake the Low Country, renounce it for other climates, but you can never completely escape the sensuous, semitropical pull of Charleston and her marshes." - Pat Conroy

Coastal South Carolina was designed -- not by man, but by Mother Nature -- for paddling. Known as “The Low Country,” there is truly no other place like it. It is a one-of-a-kind combination of magnificent sweeping landscapes that shift with the tides and living history. The unique landscape of South Carolina’s Low Country is characterized by tidal salt marshes filled with spartina grass and migratory birds feeding at low tide, numerous tidal creeks, and both intracoastal and coastal waterways teeming with shrimp, oysters, crabs, dolphins, and a wide variety of fish. More than 50 percent of the South Carolina Coast is protected in one form or another. Vast stretches of undeveloped beach, estuaries, and saltwater and freshwater marshes have been protected as national seashores, national wildlife refuges, state parks, and other wilderness preserves. These vast undeveloped tracts that characterize the coastal plain provide vital habitat for an amazing diversity of wildlife.

We will spend an entire week immersing ourselves in the varied and unique waterways and landscapes of the Low Country. As we kayak through narrow and winding blackwater rivers and creeks lined with Spanish-moss-draped live oaks, we will see numerous songbirds flying through through the air. We’ll paddle through pristine marshes lined with spartina grass and hike part of the “Palmetto Trail,” which crosses the entire state of South Carolina. We’ll catch the ferry out to Capers Island, exploring the secluded beaches and trails, and observing numerous migratory birds while exploring this undeveloped barrier island. We’ll be staying near one of the most historic cities in the entire United States, where American history comes to life right before your eyes. You can start or end each day with a walk or run on the beach, which will be just outside the door of our lodging. Whether casting a fishing line, searching for dolphins in the mighty Atlantic, combing the beach for seashells, swimming, walking, biking, or just relaxing and reading, the beach offers numerous ways for enjoyment.

Located along the Atlantic Flyway, The Carolinas’ coastal plain is the year-round or part-time home to more than 400 species of birds. Many of these can be found on Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge, which also has the largest nesting population of loggerhead sea turtles outside the state of Florida. Currently, the refuge is actively working to aid the recovery of this threatened sea turtle. Bull Island, located within the refuge, has played an important role in the recovery of the endangered red wolf. Established in 1932, Cape Romain NWR is a generous spread of coastal waterways, sandy beaches, and maritime forests. Cape Romain covers 22 heavenly miles of South Carolina coastline, totaling nearly 66,000 acres, of which 30,000 are designated wilderness. Dolphins breaking the water’s surface in Bulls Bay are a common sight. Flying overhead are brown pelicans, laughing gulls, royal terns, osprey, and numerous other bird species. Because the refuge is only accessible by boat, crowds are never a problem. Adjoining Cape Romain NWR is the 258,000-acre Francis Marion National Forest, established in 1936. Much of the coastal area between the Santee River and the Charleston urban area is included in this forest, named for General Francis Marion, who gave the British so much trouble during the Revolutionary War because of his intimate knowledge of the South Carolina terrain. Several endangered and threatened animal and plant species make their homes in the forest, while nearly 120 miles of recreational trails are available for paddling, hiking, horseback riding, and biking. Just south of Cape Romain lies Capers Island, a state-owned barrier island that is preserved and undeveloped.

The area known as the Low Country is rich in the history of South Carolina. Sewee Indians inhabited the area before the arrival of the first European settlers. English colonists made landings along the coast to resupply their ships and eventually established the first European settlement in South Carolina on the banks of the Ashley River in 1670, at the present day location of the city of Charleston. The islands and creeks within Cape Romain were once hideouts for pirates that plundered ships along the coast. Legend has it that the pirates buried part of their treasure for safekeeping in the deserted dunes and woods of the area, although none has been found so far. British warships used Bull Island, within Cape Romain, as a resupply point during the Revolutionary War. General Francis Marion used the inland swamps and forest as his base of operations and conducted a very effective guerilla warfare campaign against the British, earning him the nickname “The Swamp Fox” and turning him into an American Legend. Rice plantations, fueled by slave labor, dominated the area for a period of time. The American Civil War began on April 12, 1861 as Confederate Artillery opened fire on Union-occupied Fort Sumter. The Union troops within the fort surrendered 34 hours later and it would be four years before the fort was back in Union hands. Confederate blockade runners used the tidal creeks and coastal bays of the area to elude Union ships throughout the Civil War. The area between Sullivans Island and the Isle of Palms was the point of departure for the Confederate CSS Hunley, the first submarine to sink an enemy vessel. After sinking the USS Housatonic, the Hunley and her crew were lost at sea. Amazingly, the wreck of the Hunley was recently discovered offshore of Sullivans Island, and is being carefully restored at the nearby Charleston shipyard.

Whether you enjoy history, nature and bird watching, the ocean and beach, or paddling, the Low Country offers something for everyone. 

Note: This itinerary is tentative and subject to change due to tides, wind, weather, group ability, or other unforeseen factors. Safety is our top priority.

Day 1: This outing is van supported. We will provide curbside airport pickup at 3 p.m. at Charleston International Airport (CHS) outside of the United Airlines pickup area. For those driving, please plan on arriving at our lodging location by 4 p.m. We will give room assignments, make introductions, go over the itinerary for the week, and enjoy a huge welcome dinner featuring local cuisine. An evening walk on the beach, which is right outside our back door, will be a great option all week long.

Day 2: After a hearty breakfast, the leaders will give paddle and safety instruction and gear everyone up for an exciting week of kayaking the Low Country. We’ll jump into our kayaks and paddle out on the blackwater of Wadboo Creek. We’ll kayak past 25-foot-high limestone bluffs and caves as we meander through the tributaries of Wadboo Swamp, where Francis Marion once had supply shacks and resided. As we will see throughout the week, spring bird migration and other wildlife abound.

Day 3: Today we head north and visit the Sewee Visitor Center, where exhibits showcase the valuable ecosystems of the Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge and Francis Marion National Forest. Next, we’ll paddle Wambaw Creek, located within the heart of Francis Marion National Forest. Wambaw is a blackwater creek that offers one of the most enchanting paddles in the entire Charleston area. Time permitting, we’ll explore historic Hampton Plantation, which dates back to 1735. We’ll end the day with dinner at a unique local restaurant where local shrimp and oysters will be among the variety of menu items.

Day 4: A 22 mile section of the Ashley River is designated as a State Scenic River. As a tidal river, the Ashley supports a diverse ecosystem created by the mixing of both saltwater and freshwater environments. We will kayak a section of the Scenic Upper Ashley River today, as well as explore Colonial Dorchester State Historic Site, located on the banks of the river.

Day 5: South of Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge and Francis Marion National Forest is ACE Basin, named for the three major rivers that drain and nourish the Basin: the Ashepoo, Combahee, and Edisto. The diversity of habitats they create in a relatively small area produces estuaries that are among the most biologically rich habitats on earth. A variety of wildlife -- both common and endangered -- thrive there, including wood storks, alligators, loggerhead turtles, and bald eagles. Today, we will kayak on one of the many waterways within this amazing area. Time permitting, we will also explore the historic Old Sheldon Church Ruins, or another nearby historic site. 

Day 6: We’ll start off the day with a ferry ride to Capers Island, where we’ll explore the island with a local naturalist. Capers Island is an undeveloped barrier island that is owned by the state of South Carolina and only accessible by boat. One of the most fascinating features of the island is its “boneyard beach.” This name is due to the old tree skeletons and stumps left as a result of erosion and bleached out by the sun. Next, we’ll head back to the edge of Francis Marion National Forest to paddle Awendaw Creek, where wildlife viewing will be abundant. Bald eagles, hawks, and various shorebirds will likely be flying above us, while there is a strong possibility of being accompanied by an American alligator. After dinner, the beach beckons us for one last night walk!

Day 7: Today, we’ll have breakfast, pack up, and say goodbye to new friends after enjoying an amazing week of paddling and exploring coastal South Carolina. The trip will be officially over by mid-morning. Charleston is regularly listed as one of the top cities to visit in the world and there is no shortage of things to see and do for those wishing to extend their visit. Many who visit the Charleston area return again and again, and some never leave!

Getting There

We will be staying on Isle of Palms, South Carolina. The nearest airport is located in Charleston; it is about a 30-minute drive from our lodging. Myrtle Beach is about a 90-minute drive. Columbia, South Carolina and Savannah, Georgia are both a two-hour drive. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We will stay in an ocean-view home with a fabulous panoramic view of the oceanfront for six nights. The home has a walkway to the beach, a huge screened-in porch with rocking chairs, outdoor grill, a washer and dryer, and many other amenities. Participants will share rooms and couples will room together. The first meal provided will be breakfast on day one of the outing, and the last meal provided will be lunch on day seven. Meals will vary, with an emphasis on seafood and local cuisine. Vegetarians can be accommodated with prior notice. Participants will take turns helping out with cooking and cleaning up. We will also go out to lunch one time and have dinner at a local restaurant one evening -- these meals are not included in the trip price.

Trip Difficulty

We will paddle intermediate routes, averaging 5-10 miles in distance and 2-4 hours on the water each day. Hikes will be 1-3 miles in distance on flat terrain. We will stop to take regular breaks and a lunch each day. You do not need to be an expert paddler, but it is expected that you have some previous kayaking experience and that you are able to keep up with the group at a reasonable pace. Basic paddling and safety instructions will be given on the first day of the outing. Each participant should understand that this is a group outing and that you will be required to stay with the group while on the water and to follow all instructions given by your guides. You should be flexible as plans and itineraries often change due to weather, group ability, tides, water levels, or other unforeseen reasons. We will provide airport pick up and drop off to Charleston International Airport (CHS), as well as provide van transportation to and from our daily activities.

Note: Alligators are a regular highlight while paddling Low Country waters. They are not at all interested in kayaks or kayakers, but you should be aware of and comfortable paddling among any alligators. 

Equipment and Clothing

We will provide rental kayaks, PFDs, and paddles, as well as ACA-certified guides and a local naturalist. You are also welcome to bring your own favorite PFD or paddle. You may also choose to bring fishing gear, a beach chair, bike, or other beach-related gear for your own use throughout the week. We will provide airport pick up at 3 p.m. at Charleston International Airport (CHS) on day one of the outing, and airport drop off to CHS at approximately 11 a.m. on day seven of the outing. We will also provide van transportation to and from our daily activities. A full gear list will be sent to participants prior to the outing.

References

• Bannon, Jim, Sea Kayaking the Carolinas. Out There Press, 2003.
• Jerman, Patricia L., South Carolina Nature Viewing Guide. University of South Carolina Press, 1998.
• Lambert, Yon, The Palmetto Trail Lowcountry Guide. Palmetto Conservation Association, 2000.
• Bowen, John, Adventuring Along the Southeast Coast. Sierra Club Books, 1999.
• Bass, Robert D., Swamp Fox: The Life of General Francis Marion. Sandlapper Publishing Co, Inc, 1974.
• Bostick, Douglass W., The Union is Dissolved: Charleston and Fort Sumter in the Civil War. The History Press, 2009.
• Hicks, Brian, Raising the Hunley. Random House Publishing Group, 2007.
• Conroy, Pat, The Water is Wide. Dial Press, 2002.
• Edgar, Walter, South Carolina: A History. University of South Carolina Press, 1998.
• Earhart, Ralph, Kayak Charleston. 2010.

Conservation

While the population of South Carolina continues to increase as people move here from other parts of the country, visitors unfamiliar with the coastal region will be amazed at just how empty much of it still is. More than 50 percent of the South Carolina coast is protected in one form or another. The vast undeveloped tracts of the natural environments that characterize the coastal plain -- barrier islands, estuaries, marshes, maritime forests, swamp forests, and blackwater rivers -- provide vital habitat for an amazing diversity of wildlife.

This outing is designed to showcase a variety of Low Country landscapes, and you will be amazed at just how different and unique each of these landscapes is. Whether protected at a federal, state, local, private, or coalition level, the net effect is land being preserved in a natural state for a variety of uses. As we visit these unique areas, we will discuss in what form each area is protected, what that protection means for that area, and what the pluses and minuses of that protection are, and identify any environmental threats to the area.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and operates under a permit area located on the Francis Marion-Sumter National Forest.