Kayaking and Boating Georgia's Untamed Coast

The Trip

“Whether we were born here or come as a stranger, the Low Country exerts a hold on us that can never be broken.” — Dan Mc Kinney of Hilton Head Island

Coastal Georgia is home to countless rivers, creeks, marshes, waterways, sun-beaten fisherman, quiet islands, pristine beaches, frolicking dolphins, towering lighthouses, and twisting trees heavy with moss. Perhaps the most notable characteristic of the Georgia coast is its untamed nature, with much of the coast being protected and undeveloped. We will spend an entire week kayaking and exploring this amazing area where the landscape continuously shifts with the tides. As we paddle through coastal salt marshes, surrounded in spartina grass, we will likely see jumping fish, herons, egrets, ibis, wood storks, and countless other creatures of the coast. The American alligator is also an area resident that is frequently seen. Dolphins are frequent companions to boaters and kayakers in the waterways surrounding coastal Georgia. We will explore one of the most important National Wildlife Refuges on the entire East Coast, ironically within viewing distance of the booming city of Savannah. We will paddle a section of one of the longest untamed rivers in the entire United States -- the beautiful blackwater Ogeechee River. We will also kayak into a whole different world, surrounded by giant cypress trees, into a storybook setting on a blackwater tributary of the mighty Savannah River. Standing high above the lowcountry landscape, we will enjoy sweeping views of the ocean and coastline from atop a historic lighthouse. History comes to life as we explore some of the countless historical sights, and even a historic ghost town, in the area. With so much to see and do, the only thing that we will run out of is time!

With its cobblestone streets, historic squares, opulent mansions, and spreading live oaks dripping with Spanish moss, Savannah is one of the most distinctive cities in the entire United States. Georgia’s history, for the most part, started when James Oglethorpe and 114 colonists arrived on the Savannah River, eager to carve a new town out of the virgin pine forests that grew on the sandy bluffs above the Savannah River. Savannah, like other southern coastal towns, struggled for survival as it was ravaged by wars, epidemics, fires, and economic depression. From these humble beginnings, Savannah is now a city that welcomes six million visitors a year. John Muir spent five days camping on the grounds of Savannah’s Bonaventure Cemetery in September of 1867 on his famous 1,000-mile walk from Louisville, Kentucky to Cedar Key, Florida. Muir was a Scotsman who went on to found the Sierra Club.

Fort McAllister State Park is a 1,700-acre park that features a preserved Civil War fort and is located on the southern bank of the Ogeechee River. We’ll be staying in cabins within the park, among the beautiful maritime forest and salt marsh that are regular features of coastal Georgia. Several miles of nature trails meander throughout the park for visitors to enjoy. The Savannah National Wildlife Refuge, one of the best birding spots in Georgia, is the single largest federally protected tract of land on the Georgia coast, stretching 20 miles along the Savannah River and consisting of 26,349 acres of freshwater marshes, tidal rivers and creeks, and bottomland habitat. The refuge is one of the most important wildlife preserves on the East Coast and is visited by thousands of birds annually during migratory periods. A visitor can enjoy a wildlife drive, nature trails, fishing, and numerous waterways throughout the refuge. The 245-mile blackwater Ogeechee River has many devotees who love its primitive qualities. The Ogeechee is one of the few untamed major rivers in America. Originating at 650 feet above sea level with small spring-fed creeks, it flows from the Georgia Piedmont and then enters the Upper and Lower Coastal Plain. Near Georgia Interstate 95, it enters the tidal zone and is joined by the Canoochee River. It then flows through tidal marsh until it meets the coast and flows into the Atlantic Ocean at Ossabaw Sound.

Sea Islands, both large and small, are sprinkled all along the Georgia coast. They provide protection to the mainland, as well as a rare beauty that gives inspiration to many a soul. Going back at least 4,500 years, humans have prized Sapelo Island for its generous game, rich marshes, lush woodlands, and beautiful beaches. Sapelo is Georgia's fourth largest sea island at 10 miles long and 4 miles wide. Tybee Island is the northeastern-most of Georgia’s Sea Islands and is also the easternmost point in the state of Georgia. The small island has become a popular vacation spot with tourists. Little Tybee Island is a 6,780-acre uninhabited nature preserve, accessible only by boat. This wilderness gem showcases rich coastal salt marshes, pristine beaches, natural dunes, and subtropical forests of live oak, pine, and palm. Wildlife includes: egrets, herons, white ibis, ospreys, bald eagles, and the endangered wood stork. An anonymous gift of $1 million enabled the state to purchase the island in 1991, and the Georgia Department of Natural Resources manages the island as a wilderness preserve.

Water, sky, and land meet in ultimate triumph on the Georgia coast!

Note: This itinerary is tentative and subject to change due to tides, wind, weather, group ability, or other factors. Safety is our top priority.

Day 1: This outing is van supported. We will provide airport pickup at 3 p.m. at Savannah-Hilton Head International Airport (SAV) at the United Airlines pickup area. For those driving, we will give directions to the lodging. After settling into your cabin, we’ll make introductions, go over the itinerary, and enjoy a huge welcome dinner featuring local cuisine.

Day 2: After a hearty breakfast, we'll start the day with a visit to Savannah NWR to get an overview of the area. We'll make a stop at the visitor center, take the wildlife drive, and search for countless migratory birds with a park naturalist. The refuge is one of the most important wildlife preserves on the East Coast and is visited by thousands of birds during migratory periods. Also prevalent in the refuge is the American alligator, which we will also look for. After lunch, we'll get you geared up and give paddling and safety instructions before embarking on our first paddle of the week on The New River. The New River is a serene 35-mile-long blackwater tributary, traveled by Paleo Indians more than 4,000 years ago. We will look for native wildlife as we paddle through marsh grass and into the swamp headwaters of this classic Lowcountry paddle. Today is an easy paddle and the perfect way to start our week long journey into the Low Country.

Day 3: Today, dolphins, islands, and beach! We will journey to Skidaway Island and spend the day on a research boat with The University of Georgia Marine Education Center (MAREX). Today will be a great day for a swim in the ocean. We will search for dolphins, migratory birds, and other saltwater life as we boat over to Wassaw NWR. On past spring trips, we have also witnessed thousands of breeding horseshoe crabs on sandbars and beaches. We'll land on a coastal barrier island, go for a hike, and search for more wildlife, before trying to spot more dolphins on our way back into Skidaway Island. We should get back to our cabins early enough for folks to enjoy a short hike or relax on the Ogeechee River before dinner.

Day 4: Today, we'll take you to paddle our secret ultrascenic blackwater creek, where we will enter what seems like another world, surrounded by giant dwarf cypress trees. The creek enters the Savannah River, and the remnants of a historic town lies at the confluence, beckoning us to explore it. Hopefully, as on past trips, we'll get the local historical society to give us a short tour. The Savannah River forms the border of Georgia and South Carolina, so we can paddle from Georgia to South Carolina and back -- all in a few hours! "Enchanting" is the best single word to describe today's paddle trip.

Day 5: Sea Islands, both large and small, are sprinkled all along the Georgia Coast. They provide protection to the mainland, as well as a rare beauty that gives inspiration to many a soul. We’ll get an early start to catch our ferry boat, and spend the better part of the day journeying to and exploring Sapelo Island on a special tour arranged through Georgia State Parks. Sapelo Island is Georgia's fourth-largest sea island at 10 miles long and 4 miles wide. We'll spend the day exploring the beautiful beaches, lush woodlands, rich marshes, and a historical mansion and lighthouse, before heading back to the mainland. After dinner, and time permitting, we'll try to do a short evening sunset paddle on either the Ogeechee River or Redbird Creek.

Day 6: Today, we travel to the Northwest to paddle a scenic upriver section of the Ogeechee River. The 245-mile-long blackwater Ogeechee River is one of the few untamed major rivers in America. We'll enjoy the day going with the flow, searching the shoreline for numerous birds and wildlife, and taking ample breaks for swimming along the sandy banks (if the water levels cooperate!) of this beautiful river. We'll end the day with dinner at one of our favorite local restaurants, where seafood is always one of the main courses on the menu.

Day 7: After breakfast, we’ll pack up our belongings and say goodbye to new friends after an exciting week of exploring coastal Georgia. We will drop you off at Savannah-Hilton Head International Airport (SAV) by noon. For those wishing to extend their visit, the city of Savannah offers numerous attractions. 

Getting There

This outing is van supported. We will provide airport pickup and drop off at Savannah-Hilton Head International Airport, which is the closest major airport to our lodging and located about a half-hour drive away. We will also provide transportation to our group activities throughout the week. Directions and a group roster will be provided to all confirmed participants. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We will spend six nights in cozy cabins at Fort McAllister State Park, within a beautiful marsh, surrounded by palm trees, and near historic Savannah. The cottages are surprisingly nice to most people and have most modern amenities. Each cabin has two bedrooms with two double beds in each room. Participants coming alone will share rooms and couples will room together.

Participants will take turns helping the leaders prepare meals and clean up. The first meal will be dinner on day one of the outing, and the last meal will be breakfast on day seven of the outing. We will go out to one group dinner during the week -- this dinner is not included in the trip price.

Trip Difficulty

We will paddle intermediate routes, averaging 5-10 miles and 2-4 hours on the water each day. You should be comfortable sitting in a kayak for up to 3-4 hours at a time. You need not be an expert paddler, but you should have previous kayaking experience. Basic paddling and safety instruction will be given on the first day of the outing. Each participant should understand that this is a group outing and that he/she will be required to stay with the group while we are on the water or trail. You should be flexible as plans and itineraries often change due to tides, weather, water levels, group ability, or other unforeseen reasons. Hikes will be 1-3 miles in distance on level terrain or sandy beaches. This outing is van supported. Daily drive times vary from 30-60 minutes each way. 

Note: Alligators are a regular highlight while kayaking coastal Georgia waterways. They are not interested in kayakers, but you should be aware of and comfortable with the possibility of paddling among alligators.

Equipment and Clothing

We will provide a rental kayak, PFD, and paddle to each participant. We will provide all group cooking gear. You will need to bring a reusable lunch container, water bottle(s), and a dry bag(s) to use throughout the week. A full gear list will be sent to all participants prior to the outing.

References

• Lenz, Richard J., Georgia Coast and Okefenokee, RR Donnelley and Sons, 1999.
• Kap, Stann, Moon Handbook to Georgia, Avalon Travel Publishing, 2008.
• Molloy, Johnny, Paddling Georgia, Morris Book Publishing LLC, 2009.
• Bowen, John, Adventuring Along the Southeast Coast, Sierra Club Books/John Bowen, 1999.
• Berendt, John, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, Turtleback Books, 1999.
• Conroy, Pat, The Water is Wide, Dial Press, 2002.

Conservation

“The environment doesn’t have a vote at the General assembly of Georgia or U.S. Congress, unless someone represents it. While one developer may not get his or her way on a single project, every day we benefit from the naturally occurring processes supplied free of charge by healthy ecosystems.” - Richard J. Lenz

Environmental protection in Georgia, just like everywhere else, offers many contrasts that require diligence by environmental organizations such as Sierra Club. Only one-tenth of Georgia’s 110-mile outer seashore is developed beachfront. The rest is largely wild and uninhabited. This is not to say the Georgia coast isn’t facing some daunting issues. The depletion of the coastal aquifer, the dredging of rivers, the loss of beach, swelling coastal population and tourism, and the overfishing of certain marine species are just a few of the problems that must be solved. Perhaps no area we will visit provides as good of an example of these contrasts as the Savannah National Wildlife Refuge. The serenity of the natural scenery at the refuge is visually disturbed by the ominous look of smokestacks rising from the nearby plants of Savannah’s industrial sector. The implied threat has been realized on two fronts: first, unfortunate releases of toxic pollutants into the refuge, and second, encroaching salt water from the dredging of the Front River to accommodate larger cargo ships. As we explore coastal Georgia, we will discuss the various environmental issues that pertain to the areas that we visit.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.