Magnificent Madagascar

The Trip

Anchored in the Indian Ocean off the southeast coast of Africa, Madagascar is an amazing wonder of biodiversity. As the fourth-largest island in the world nearly the size of Texas, it was formerly a part of the ancient supercontinent Gondwana. Madagascar has developed an incredible plethora of unique and exotic flora and fauna. Madagascar is sometimes called the “Galapagos of the Indian Ocean.” Splitting from India nearly 90 million years ago, the isolation of this island continent led to the evolution of unique plant and animal species; about 90 percent of the flora and fauna is endemic to Madagascar, including over 50 species of primates known as lemurs and sifakas. Madagascar is truly one of the last remaining wild places in the world.

Madagascar is inhabited by the Malagasy, a unique blend of Pacific and African peoples. Although diverse in ethnic origins and local folklore, the people are united by the Malagasy language. This language originated in the ancient Malay-Polynesian, and includes many words from Bantu, Swahili, English, and French. A holdover from colonial days, French is commonly spoken in business transactions as well as in tourist facilities. As we travel through the country, we will meet these friendly people as they go about their daily routines, and we will have the chance to talk with them about life in Madagascar.

This trip is designed for active people with a sense of adventure. We travel comfortably by private air-conditioned tourist bus, with our own driver and naturalist, enjoying spectacular scenery along the way and feasting on tropical fruits and healthy, fresh, local cuisine with a French influence. We will explore many parts of this extraordinary island, from the colonial capital of Antananarivo to the rainforest home of the indri indri and diademed sifaka in Analamazaotra and Mantadia National Parks to the spiny forests of the Berenty reserve, which is inhabited by dancing sifakas and mouse lemurs. We will travel to Berenty in 4-wheel-drive vehicles, after our flight from Tulear to Fort Dauphin. We’ll see unique birds with names such as fody, bulbul, vanga, bee-eater, and sunbird. We trek inland to the sculpted beauty of Isalo National Park and through charming and quirky villages and cities. Along the way we stay at several outstanding eco-lodges -- one in the verdant rainforest, one in the dry spiny forest, and one in the arid inland desert. We explore the trails of Ranomafana National Park, dedicated to the protection of the golden bamboo and greater bamboo lemur. Finally, we experience some of the colonial charm of days past in the cities and markets of the cities near to Antananarivo. This is a comprehensive tour and truly an adventure of a lifetime -- join us!

Day 1: Antananarivo (Tana)

In the morning after breakfast, we depart the hotel and have a general introduction to Madagascar’s natural history. This will include a visit to either to the University or the Botanical and Zoological Park of Tsimbazaza and its paleontology museum. After lunch we will have a guided tour of the historical Ambohimanga (Blue Hill), the palace of Queen Ranavalona, which is a UNESCO site. In the evening, we share a welcome dinner.

Day 2: Tana to Berenty Reserve (4 hours 4WD road driving)

Today we transfer to the airport and fly to Fort Dauphin. Fort Dauphin was occupied by Europeans in the 17th century and served as a thriving trading post. We depart on 4WD vehicles for Berenty Reserve, a small private tamarind forest reserve set in the semiarid forest near the Mandrake River. Along the way we see small villages and communities eking a living out of this harsh landscape, stopping in a local market for photos and perhaps a banana. At the lodge, our rooms are two-person bungalows in a lovely well-maintained setting. Around the property, we see ringtail lemurs, possibly including mothers and their clinging babies, and also watch the flight of the bee-eaters in the tall trees. In the evening we enjoy a night walk around the hotel grounds, to look for the white-footed sportive lemur and the gray mouse lemur, both of which are active at night.

Day 3: Berenty Reserve

Today is a full day to visit the larger reserve trails with guided walks. This reserve has flora and fauna characteristic of the spiny forest of Androy and many types of lemurs. Early in the morning, we may come across tribes of 'dancing' Verreaux’s sifakas sidestepping down the forest pathways. This is a delightful experience that you will want to video! In the afternoon, we travel to a dry spiny forest and look for the mouse lemur sleeping deep within the spiny Euphorbias. We may also see the Scops Owl burrowed during the day or on our night walk. 

Day 4: Berenty Reserve

Today is another full day to savor the larger Berenty Reserve trails with more walks and wildlife observation. We’ll visit a working sisal plantation and see the process from start to finish. A visit to another spiny forest may give us the opportunity to see the endangered radiated or spider tortoise in the wild. We also visit the informative Museum of Androy on the reserve grounds, perhaps seeing the bizarre-looking hoopoe bird nearby. We have some free time to soak up the landscape, work on our journal, or just enjoy the antics of the sifakas and ring-tailed lemurs. 

Day 5: Berenty - Fort Dauphin (4 hours 4WD road driving)

We leave Berenty after an early breakfast, to catch the sunrise, while driving through the landscape of zebu ranching interspersed with rice fields.We visit Andohahela Park, a transitional area between dry and humid zones, to observe the adaptations of plants and animals for their habitat. We continue to Fort Dauphin, nestled in a promontory at the foot of the Saint Louis peak, visiting Fort Flacourt, the remains of an ancient bastion, and the Anosy Museum. Make sure to look out to sea for humpback whales cruising and breaching along the coast. In the evening we settle into our comfortable hotel.

Day 6: Fort Dauphin to Tulear (1 hour road driving)

If we have time before our flight, we visit a delightful botanical garden in town. Fort Dauphin has three types of ecosystems: dense rainforest with altitudinal differences, xerophila (bush), and transition forest. The area is also well known for its carnivorous plants (nepenthes) and triangular palm trees. We then fly to Toliara (or Tulear). Tulear is often called "the White" as opposition to the “Red Tana." This nickname comes from the exceptional luminosity of the sky in this area. The town itself is relatively modern, and the French architect who designed it placed a big importance in planting tress in the city, which offer now a welcome shady protection from the blazing sun! We visit Arboretum d’Antsokay, a lovely collection of plants that attract native birds such as the fody. There is a lively market in Tulear that we visit, followed by a special lunch at our guide’s favorite restaurant in town known for its exquisite seafood. We then drive to our lovely accommodations for the evening, where we will have time to see the nearby mangrove life, Vezo fisheries community, and the blue Indian Ocean by our lodge.

Day 7: Tulear to Ranohira (Isalo) (5 hours road driving)

After breakfast, we board our bus and drive toward Isalo, located in the center of southern Madagascar. We see Mahafaly tombs and one of the seven types of baobab trees. We visit Zombitse Vohibasia National Park, a transitional pocket forest between the dry and rainforest areas. If we are lucky, we will see lemurs and sifakas as well as the crimson Madagascar fody, butterflies, and perhaps a few geckos. We travel to the mining town of Ilakaka, seeing people working the rock in the rivers to find sapphires, viewing a working sapphire mine and visiting a gem store. The landscape changes and is reminiscent of the American Southwest, with sandstone and a desert quality. After arriving to a welcome drink and cold towel at our luxurious stone lodge in Isalo, we have the remainder of the afternoon to hike amongst the rocks, swim in the refreshing pool, or just laze in the sun. 

Day 8: Isalo (1.5 hours road driving)

We spend today in Isalo National Park, where your camera will be busy capturing the sandstone that has been eroded into deep canyons and strange formations, the deep pools in the canyons, and the rugged vistas. With our guide, we walk to see endemic plants, palm trees, verdant creeks, lemurs, insects, and birds. We have time to dip our feet in a pool of cool water. We return to our hotel for lunch, and will use the afternoon to discover the many secrets of this amazing landscape.

Day 9: Isalo

Bonus day! We spend another day in this desert paradise, with many options available for the day. You can go birding along the creek, hike the hotel trails amongst the sandstone towers and hoodoos, swim in and laze by the pool, have an optional massage or spa day, or just relax. The leader and our guide will make sure you have a great day here. In the late afternoon just before sunset, we drive to a natural formation called "The Window," renowned for its spectacular setting at the end of the day. 

Day 10: Isalo to Fianarantsoa (5 hours road driving)

Today we leave paradise and travel north and west through the barren lands and zebu herds. We stop in Ambalavao to visit a cooperative silk workshop that will most likely encourage you to open your travel wallet! We continue on to Fianarantsoa, which means “The City Where One Can Learn Something Good." It is Madagascar’s second-largest city and many regard it as the academic, intellectual, and religious capital of Madagascar. We visit the historic old quarter of town and the vibrant market. 

Day 11: Fianarantsoa to Ranomafana (2 hours road driving)

Today we head east toward the thermal town of Ranomafana (which means “hot water” in Malagasy) in the eastern rainforest. We see the vegetation change to luxuriant green forest as we travel into the heart of one of the most famous and spectacular national parks in all of Madagascar. We’ll stop to see a waterfall and lovely orchids along the way. This evening we take a night walk along the roadside to spot sleeping lemurs, birds, geckos, and chameleons.

Day 12: Ranomafana

A fantastic day begins with an exploration of Ranomafana National Park with our local guide. This park has the richest biodiversity of any national park in Madagascar, and is particularly known for orchids. We may be lucky to see the rediscovered golden bamboo lemur and also the eastern woolly lemur, red-bellied lemurs, black and white ruffed lemur, small-toothed sportive lemur, diademed sifakas, and red-fronted lemurs as we hike on and off trail. We trek under giant tree ferns, palms, orchids, and giant bamboo forests, looking for the elusive pitta-like ground roller as well as birds such as vangas and the outrageously blue cuoa. Butterflies and dragonflies will accompany us as we explore this fantastic area. In the afternoon, we visit Centre ValBio, an international training center for the study of biodiversity, initially founded by Dr. Patricia Wright to protect the golden bamboo lemur. It is now a thriving center with many scientists, researchers, and students, and we have a tour of the property and learn about some of the studies in progress. 

Day 13: Ranomafana to Antsirabe (6 hours road driving)

Today we leave the rainforest and continue north, seeing everyday Malagasy life along the roads and vistas. The architecture is unique in Africa, bearing strong resemblance to the construction norms and methods of Southern Borneo from which some of the earliest inhabitants of Madagascar are believed to have immigrated. Most traditional houses here follow a rectangular rather than round form, and feature a steeply sloped, peaked roof supported by a central pillar. These homes, often clustered in small groups, are made of adobe mud. If time permits we stop in Ambositra to visit a Zafimaniry Art workshop. The Zafimaniry tribe is famous for their wood carvings. We continue on to Antsirabe, a Malagasy Vichy town, founded by Norwegians and known for its small craft factories — several of which we hope to visit that makes products from recycled aluminum and wood. The main transport in Antsirabe is the pousse-pousse, which is a colorful rickshaw, often pulled by bare-footed men. If time permits we will visit the local cathedral and market. 

Day 14: Antsirabe to Andasibe (7 hours road driving)

Today is our longest drive. We continue along the famous Route 7 and then turn off to Andasibe, with rice fields and cleared forests along the way. We turn east and have a good opportunity to see zebu pulling wooden plows through the rice paddies. We stop at a private reserve at Marozevo, where colorful chameleons and snakes are the main attractions. We continue to Andasibe and a lovely forest lodge with small bungalows, where we settle in before dinner and a night walk.

Day 15: Andasibe

We spend the morning nearby in the future National Park of Maromizaha. In its stunted rainforest, hikes can be more challenging because of steep ascents, and the many streams feeding this forest can cause the paths to be muddy. This reserve has fewer visitors, so the 12 species of lemurs here are still relatively shy. We hope to be able to see the endangered black and white ruffed lemur. This is also a key home to some special reptiles like the charming Malthe’s and the extremely rare cucullatum chameleon. We will go back in Andasibe for lunch, then visit the community-based park VOI in the afternoon for another Indri experience.

Day 16: Andasibe to Tana (4 hours road driving)

After breakfast we embark on a guided visit to the Analamazaotra National Park, where the word "endemic" will be heard often as we hike and search for wildlife. There is a good chance that we will hear -- and hopefully see -- the indri indri, one of the largest lemurs, high up in the trees, with its haunting call and unique coloring. When you hear this call, you will understand the origin of the word lemur, derived from a word in Roman mythology for “ghost." We will take a short walk around the town of Andasibe and have a late lunch. After checking out, we head back to Tana, where we will have our farewell dinner and spend the night.

Day 17: Tana 

Our Madagascan adventure comes to a close today. This morning after breakfast, we take a short drive to visit a vanilla workshop to learn about this world-famous orchid. We will have the opportunity to purchase vanilla and other Madagascan spices. After lunch, those with afternoon flights will be transferred to the airport. Those flying out later in the evening will have use of a day room at the hotel, before being transported to the airport later in the evening. Overnight accommodation is not included. 

While every effort will be made to follow this itinerary, our plans may change due to weather, changes in flight schedules, or other circumstances beyond our control. Please note that the driving times do not include our stops.

Getting There

This trip starts and ends in Antananarivo. There are several gateway flight cities to Antananarivo, including Paris, Frankfurt, Nairobi, and Johannesburg, to name a few. Due to the distances involved and the relative isolation of Madagascar, it is recommended that you plan your flights well so that a missed connection does not mean a missed trip! The leader can assist you with suggestions for travel and also recommend any possible trip extensions in Madagascar or South Africa. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We will stay in charming eco-lodges and modern hotels. All of our accommodations have air conditioning or room fans and screened windows. Rooms are double-occupancy; if you come alone, we'll give you a roommate. A single supplement may be available, but is rather expensive; please contact the leader if interested. The food will be delicious -- a mix of local and typical Malagasy dishes with French-influenced cuisine that includes a variety of local seasonal fruits and vegetables. Vegetarians can be accommodated. We'll travel by comfortable, private air-conditioned bus. There will be a few long drives, but the scenery along the way is spectacular.

Trip Difficulty

Madagascar is one of the poorest countries in the world, with 85% of the population earning $1.50 or less a day. This trip is therefore suitable for individuals who are in good health, get regular exercise, have traveled extensively, enjoy nature, and have a good-humored and understanding approach to traveling in the third world -- where things might not go as predictably as they do at home. In order to get to our destinations, we have a number of days with long bus rides on poor roads. Our trip is not strenuous and can be considered leisurely-to-moderate most days; however, there will be some more challenging hiking during our visit to Maromizaha. Elevation gains and losses on most hikes are minimal. Although we are traveling at the end of the dry season, rain can fall at any time, especially in the rainforest. Rain will not restrict our movements or our enjoyment of the forests or coast. We can expect sometimes hot and humid conditions when we are hiking or wildlife viewing, but dressing properly and hydrating well will increase your comfort level.

Equipment and Clothing

We will be traveling through a diverse range of habitats and ecological zones. The leader will provide a clothing and equipment list once you have signed up. Generally, clothing should be loose and lightweight to protect from the sun as well as insects. Hiking boots with a Vibram sole are required as the terrain can be rocky or muddy. Hiking poles are strongly recommended as we are often off-trail looking for lemurs and birds.

References

Books:

• Austin, Daniel and Nick Garbutt, Madagascar Wildlife 4th (Bradt Travel Guide, Madagascar Wildlife). 2015, Bradt Travel Guides.
• Brady, Hilary, Madagascar 13th, The Bradt Travel Guide. 2020, Bradt Travel Guides.
• Garbutt, Nick, Hilary Bradt, and Derek Schuurman, Madagascar Wildlife 3rd (Bradt Travel Guide, Madagascar Wildlife). 2008, Bradt Travel Guides.
• Lonely Planet, Madagascar (9th Edition). 2020.
• Sinclair, Ian, and Oliver Langrand, Chamberlain's Birds of the Indian Ocean Islands: Madagascar, Mauritius, Reunion, Rodrigues, Seychelles, and the Comores. 2013, Penguin Random House.
• Tyson, Peter, The Eighth Continent: Life, Death and Discovery in the Lost World of Madagascar. 2013, Brandt Travel Guides.
• Wright, Patricia Chapelle, For the Love of Lemurs: My Life in the Wilds of Madagascar. 2014, Lantern Books.

Maps:

• Map of Madagascar, Freytag & Berndt, 2017.

Websites:

• Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madagascar
• BBC Country Information: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-13861843
• U.S. Department of State: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/Madagascar.html
• Nations Online (lots of links): http://www.nationsonline.org/oneworld/madagascar.htm
• Conservation International (perform search on Madagascar): http://www.conservation.org
• Blue Ventures: http://blueventures.org/conservation/community-conservation.html
• Center Valbio: https://www.stonybrook.edu/commcms/centre-valbio/

DVDs:

• “The Island of Lemurs: Madagascar” (2015) Narrated by Morgan Freeman with Dr. Patricia Wright
• "Madagascar," David Attenborough, 2011; BBC (can also be found in segments on YouTube)
• "The Marvels of Madagascar," Greg Grainger, 2008; Goldhill Home Media (Australian DVD with a focus on lemurs)
• Dan Rather produced a two-part television documentary on Madagascar which can be found on YouTube

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, and encourages grassroots involvement. Our outings hope to guide participants toward understanding the environmental parallels between home and abroad.

Madagascar faces serious decisions regarding the future of their unique and fragile island biodiversity. The pressure of over 23 million people has had significant impact on the natural habitat. Poverty and lack of work contribute to foraging and illegal practices, all of which are detrimental to the forest and fauna of Madagascar. The Malagasy practice of having one or several zebu instead of a bank account has also affected land use as slash and burn is used to create more rangeland. The intensive grazing and compacting of the soil inhibits vegetation, and much of the landscape is becoming bare.

Additionally, over 80 percent of Madagascar’s forests have been burned or logged, and the economic pressures in this third-world country continue to support illegal logging, particularly of rosewood, which is exported to Asia for furniture-making. Currently, less than 10 percent of the original tree cover remains. The government and many conservation groups are working to stop this practice, to increase the number of national parks and reserves, and to encourage tourism as a viable means of income for Malagasy citizens. Recent successes have been seen in protecting natural land areas in order to recreate biological corridors for animals to navigate in their habitats. We plan to meet with researchers at ValBio Centre who will help us understand how conservation is slowly being implemented in parts of the country primarily to protect lemur populations.

Water is also a conservation issue. With the degradation of the forests, entire species of insects, birds, animals, and plants are eradicated and watersheds are destroyed. In the southern part of the country, where water is less available, we will see poverty and people living in more difficult conditions. In some communities, it is not unusual for the women to walk several hours each way to collect water from a well. NGOs are working with communities to develop wells and assist with water issues, and we will learn about these on our trip.

Madagascar truly has serious conservation issues, and it is encouraging that the government and other agencies are recognizing the importance of protection and conservation. Conservation organizations are working to protect the lemurs and Madagascar's other biological treasures. Madagascar and the islands off its coast are considered one of the world's 25 biodiversity "hotspots." Species new to science are still being found in little-known areas of this island nation. The increase in ecotourism, including this Sierra Club group, dedicated to wildlife and natural history, helps to emphasize the need for treasuring this unique island.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.