Maine Woods Classic Cross-Country Ski

The Trip

Deep in the woods of Northern Maine is a wild tract of land known as the Hundred-Mile Wilderness. Generally considered the wildest section of the Appalachian Trail, it is the hiker’s gateway to Baxter State Park and the summit of Katahdin.  In winter, the snow piles deep and the landscape is transformed into a skier’s wonderland.

This is the setting for our eight-day and seven-night camp-to-camp cross-country ski tour. On this moderately strenuous, classic skiing adventure, suitable for intermediate level skiers, we will travel light through the backcountry on miles of groomed, but untracked trails. Our gear will be shuttled via snowmobile. At night we stay in comfortable gas-lit cabins warmed by woodstoves. These outpost camps, built to serve loggers in years gone by, have been updated yet retain their rustic flavor.

The land and camps are part of the Maine Woods Initiative, an Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) project to secure, protect, and conserve more then 66,000 acres of wilderness area for future generations. A system of more then 100 miles of ski and hiking trails connect AMC’s Little Lyford, Gorman Chairback, and Medawisla lodge and cabins with partner West Branch Pond Camp. Silence prevails in the woods in winter with a thick blanket of snow marked only by the tracks of hare, moose, ruffed grouse, and Canadian Lynx.

Our lodging at the three AMC traditional Maine Sporting Camps will be bunkhouse style (cabin upgrade may be possible). We will meet Sunday at 11a.m. in Greenville,  Maine in order to drive our vehicles to AMC’s winter parking lot.  We will then be shuttled to Medawisla Camp where our skiing adventure begins.  In the course of eight days we will stay at three AMC camps along with West Branch Pond Camps, a fourth generation family-owned and managed facility since 1910. AMC’s Little Lyford and Gorman Chairback camps are truly remote, accessible in winter only by skis, snowshoes, dog sled, and snowmobiles.

All the camps pride themselves on authentic old-time Maine hospitality, with hearty meals served amidst the camaraderie of like-minded people enjoying the outdoors in winter. The four camps now offer modern amenities, including hot showers, and the AMC camps have wood-fired saunas, so be sure to pack a swim suit. The camps received accolades in "Best Lodge-to-Lodge Skiing in the U.S." by Men's Journal and "Best Ski-in Huts and Lodges" by Outside Online.

Each morning, after breakfast, we will set out with our trail lunch and daypack to enjoy the snow. On some days we will explore the local ski trails available around our camp, and on others we will ski 8 to 10 miles to our next destination where our gear will already be waiting our arrival. There will be many other skiing options available as well for those wanting still more. While at Little Lyford we will have the chance to visit Gulf Hagas, the “Grand Canyon of the East." This series of beautiful waterfalls lies in a deep gorge designated a registered National Natural Landmark in 1968. In 1986 the National Park Service obtained nearly 2,000 acres, including the Gulf and the corridor along Gulf Hagas Brook, to permanently protect this unique scenic canyon. Here the river drops about 400 feet in four miles, with vertical walls creating narrow channels, waterfalls, rapids, chutes, and pools. In winter Gulf Hagas offers breathtaking ice and snow formations.

We meet Sunday at 11 a.m. at Northwoods Outfitters in Greenville, ME. We will drive our vehicles to our endpoint at the AMC Winter Parking Lot. From there, Northwoods Outfitters will shuttle us to our starting point at AMC’s Medawisla Camp to have an orientation and get acquainted over dinner. Monday we enjoy skiing the trails around Medawisla. Tuesday we ski to West Branch Pond Camps, where we layover and ski local routes on Wednesday. Thursday we continue on to AMC’s Little Lyford Lodge and Cabins with an opportunity to visit Gulf Hagas. On Friday we ski to AMC’s Gorman Chairback Camp. Saturday we will ski nearby trails and enjoy our final celebratory dinner Saturday evening before skiing to the Winter Parking Lot to head home on Sunday.

Each morning we will enjoy a hearty breakfast, pack our trail lunches, and set off for the day. Upon arriving at our lodging, there will be time to explore further, enjoy a hot shower or relax before dinner in the sauna. After dinner each night we will have a brief meeting regarding the following day’s activities with time for socializing.

This itinerary is subject to change depending on weather, temperature, trail and snow conditions, skiers’ abilities and leaders’ judgment of other circumstances!

Day 1: We will meet at 11 a.m. at Northwoods Outfitters, 5 Lily Bay Road, Greenville, ME (207-695-3288) to reconfirm trail conditions and weather and to position our cars about 11 miles down a plowed forest road to AMC’s Winter Parking Lot. From there, Northwoods Outfitters will shuttle us about an hour and a half to our starting point at AMC’s Medawisla Camp. There we will get settled in the bunkhouse and have our “official” trip start with our “meet and greet,” orientation, gear check, and discussion of trip details, including our itinerary, equipment, clothing, safety, and Leave No Trace etiquette. Dinner will be at 6 p.m.

Day 2: After eating breakfast and packing our trail lunch, we will consult the map and discuss skiing options, based on local trail and weather conditions.

Day 3: After breakfast and packing our trail lunch, we will set out our gear for snowmobile transport and head off to West Branch Pond Camps. There we will be greeted by owner Eric Stirling and shown to our assigned cabins, where we can relax or choose to do some more skiing. Dinner will be at 6 p.m. and afterwards Eric will give a conservation talk about the history of his camp and the region.

Day 4: This is our day to explore the area around West Branch Pond Camp or just relax.

Day 5: Today, after packing up, we will need to ski to Little Lyford Camp. Once there we have the option to explore Gulf Hagas, other local trails around the lodge or simply enjoy the lodge and sauna prior to dinner.

Day 6: This is the day we ski to our final camp, Gorman Chairback. After arriving and settling in we will be free to choose our afternoon activity.

Day 7: On the last full day of our tour we can explore the many skiing options around Gorman Chairback. In the evening we will gather for our final dinner together.

Day 8: After eating breakfast and packing up, we will ski to the Winter Parking Lot where our gear and vehicles await us and our adventure concludes.

Getting There

We meet at Northwoods Outfitters in Greenville, ME (5 Lily Bay Rd. 207-695-3288). Detailed driving instructions will be provided to participants. The State of Maine does a great job plowing and the roads to Greenville are good and well plowed, sanded, and salted.

The nearest airport is in Bangor, ME about 1 ½ hours (66 miles) away. After that your options are:

• Portland, ME airport is 2 hrs and 45 minutes (156 miles)
• Quebec Airport is 3 hrs and 20 minutes (299 km)
• Boston’s Logan Airport is 4 hours and 30 minutes (260 miles)

If you are driving, you will want to allow at least five hours' driving time from the Bostonarea (260 miles) and at least eight hours from the greater NYC area (470 miles). Sierra Club encourages carpooling amongst participants and will provide a roster of trip members for your convenience.

Please do not make travel arrangements until the leader has confirmed you as a trip member.

Accommodations and Food

All the AMC camps are rustic, charming, historic Maine Sporting Camps, where we will enjoy bunkhouse style lodging (cabin upgrades may be available). At West Branch Pond Camps we will be sharing cabins.  All locations offer dinner, breakfast, trail lunch, hot showers, and either private cabins or shared bunkhouse space. Pillows and blankets are provided. We bring our own sleeping bags and towel. A shuttle transports our gear when we move to another camp.

AMC’s Medawisla Camp was newly refurbished and opened to the public in the summer of 2017.  Little Lyford Camp, providing visitors with accommodations for over 135 years, and Gorman Chairback, built as a private camp in 1867 and accommodating visitors for 148 years, offer rustic “off the grid” charm on 66,000 acres of forest land now permanently conserved by the AMC. These camps are accessible only by skis, snowshoe, dog sled, or snowmobile in winter. Gorman Chairback features a world-class central “green” lodge for dining and relaxing. At the AMC camps we will stay in shared co-ed bunkhouses. There may be the option for a cabin upgrade at an additional cost for those interested.

Little Lyford has a central bathhouse with hot showers, composting toilets year-round, and a sauna. Gorman Chairback’s bathrooms and sauna are part of the new Lodge.

At West Branch Pond Camps we will be in shared cabins, eat in their historic “mess hall,” and have hot showers available in a separate bathhouse.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is suitable for intermediate skiers.  This means participants must have experience in skiing 10 miles or more over varied types of terrain in a variety of weather conditions, as well as the working knowledge and practical application of intermediate X-country skiing techniques. No “extreme skiing” is required.  As always, changeable winter conditions make it impossible to predict what trail conditions may be encountered. The endurance required is moderate. On days when we move from one camp to the next, skiers must be fit enough to ski 8-10 miles at a moderate pace under prevailing conditions.  On layover days, participants will have the option to ski as much or little as they would like on the many local trails available. Our gear will be transported both to and between camps. We need only ski with daypacks.

Safety is paramount, and we will need to be prepared for any intensity of snow, sleet, or rain as well as possible high winds.

Needless to say, we will be prepared for a fun, safe trip.

Equipment and Clothing

Due to varying trail conditions, you may want to bring backcountry touring skis with at least a partial metal edge. Northwoods Outfitters in Greenville rents backcountry ski equipment (866-223-1380). A ski package rental is estimated at $15-$30 per day, depending on whether you rent regular or backcountry skis.

We will be skiing in a remote backcountry setting and likely will encounter few—if any—other people during the daytime. AMC does not regularly patrol the trails. Our group must be self-sufficient and prepared for varied winter conditions and changes in weather. You will need extra fleece layers and socks, plus face/eye protection, waterproof shell, headlamp, waterproof matches, lunch and water containers, and a sturdy daypack (with pack cover) for carrying lunches and layering gear on the trail. (We recommend packing gear in plastic bags as well.) The leader will bring one full first aid kit for our party. Each person is asked to pack their own personal medications and first aid kit equipped to meet their needs. A detailed clothing and equipment list will be provided to confirmed participants. Please note that only synthetic fabrics or wool should be worn while skiing. Cotton should be reserved for around the cabins or lodge wear.

Heavier and around-camp gear like sleeping bags, towels, and boots will be transported on the gear shuttle. Plan to bring your gear in a single duffel bag or duffel-like bag. Each person is allowed one bag on the transport.

References

We recommend the Maine Mountain Guide, which includes a Gulf Hagas map and trail descriptions. You may also be interested in the Southern Piscataquis Regional Recreation Map and Guide, published by AMC, which shows other nearby trails, put-ins, and natural and cultural resources in the area. Both are available at the AMC Online Store or by calling 800-262-4455.

Conservation

A decline in the traditional forest products industry in Maine has led to significant changes in land ownership. Resulting development threatens the wild and remote character of this region, as well as traditional public access and outdoor recreation. We will learn about the Appalachian Mountain Club’s Maine Woods Initiative to (1) permanently protect 100,000 acres, including a 25,000-acre ecological reserve, while preserving public access for recreation, (2) create new outdoor recreation opportunities through the Maine Wilderness Lodges and its growing trail network that encourages people to get out, enjoy, and protect “natural” Maine, and (3) get local school kids outdoors to enjoy the Maine Woods via a special school-based program. AMC employs sustainable forestry methods using local logging crews and supplying local mills.

On this, as on all Sierra Club outings, we will show concern and consideration for the environment and employ good conservation practices. We will recycle everything we can, stay on trails, and follow Leave no Trace (LNT) principles.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.