Oaxaca: Celebrate Day of the Dead in the Cultural Heart of Mexico

The Trip

Take a journey into the soul of traditional, indigenous Oaxaca during its most important festival of the year—Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead! We will cook and sample local specialties, visit graveyards during the parties for the deceased, meet potters and weavers in small villages, explore the ruins of pre-Hispanic palaces, and hike a ceremonial peak. This trip's off-the-beaten-path mix of living history, tradition, and diversity provide a unique and unexpected view of Mexico.

The state of Oaxaca, Mexico, is an ancient land of pine-clad mountains and cactus-filled valleys. It is the most biologically diverse state in the mega-diverse country of Mexico, and its varied microclimates and rugged geology have created a diversity of human culture. Settled more than 10,000 years ago, Oaxaca’s mountains and valleys are home to a broad mosaic of peoples, including the Zapotecs and Mixtecs, making Oaxaca Mexico’s most indigenous state.

Our explorations will take us by private van down back roads into the heart of Oaxaca’s natural and cultural worlds where we will get a privileged glimpse of her amazing people, and their folk art and way of life. Since our group will be small, we will visit artisans’ homes that would not be accessible with larger groups. We will also visit a thriving Sunday market that is the heart of life for the Zapotec people, and enjoy very special access to fascinating places.

Day 1: Plan to arrive no later than 5 p.m. at our hotel in the historic center of Oaxaca City (OAX), a Spanish colonial jewel and UNESCO World Heritage site. We will meet in our hotel for an orientation talk at 5:30 p.m. and then head out for our first meal of the trip, a Welcome Dinner of fine Oaxacan cuisine. Overnight: Oaxaca.

Day 2: Oaxaca comes together at the market. Experience the ancient ritual of exchange; people watching; extraordinary sights, sounds, smells, and tastes; and an overload of everything. For centuries Sundays in Tlacolula have meant all this and today we’ll become a part of this delicious, living history as we immerse ourselves in Sunday Market. And while here we'll pick up some necessary ingredients because after the market we are off to a kitchen; in this case a traditional Zapotec kitchen, where we'll learn how to turn those ingredients into our lunch in a hands-on cooking class. Then we visit a home-based industry in a little village where the iconic aprons used by the women of the Oaxacan valleys are made. Colorful, fun, and a must when making Oaxacan cuisine. Today, market, kitchen, apron, we immerse ourselves into an Oaxaca well off the beaten path, and well worth the time. Overnight: Oaxaca.

Day 3: Folkarts of Ocotlan pottery, weaving, flowers and artistic heritage are the focus of the day. Our journey takes us into the Ocotlan valley to visit the workshops of artisans who are once traditional and innovative. We’ll see fine backstrap weavers, black clay sculpture work, meet a golden-hearted potter who is blind and smiles through every pore in his body. We’ll also visit a family that carries on the flowery old tradition of creating ceremonial dried flower adornments. All the artisans we visit are recognized great masters from the amazing Great Masters books of the Banamex Foundation, and each of them is filled with an inspiration that shines in their work. Overnight: Oaxaca.

Day 4: The tortilla was invented in Oaxaca 2,700 years ago according to archaeologists, so what better place to learn about this true Mexican food of the soul? This simple disk of corn is much more complex and important than most of us imagine. Our journey today will show us why, and we’ll have a grand time on the way. Our route is way off the beaten path and right into the heart of Oaxaca, visiting a traditional Zapotec corn farmer, a family of potters who make comales, without which a tortilla cannot be cooked and of course, expert tortilla makers. We’ll learn about the hidden ingredient in tortillas so important that without it the great civilizations of Mexico never would have existed (no, it’s not fluoride!) and we’ll give tortilla making a try ourselves…and get to eat the results as part of a home-cooked village meal. We crown our day with a visit to the quiet ruins of Yagul, not far from the caves where the oldest corn cobs on Earth were discovered. This journey is about the food that feeds the Mexican soul and upon which ancient nations were built; it is a trip that takes us from one small village to the next, meeting farmers, artisans and cooks and truly giving us a taste of what Oaxaca is about. Overnight: Mitla.

Day 5: We’ll start our day with a home-cooked breakfast in grandma’s kitchen. Then we’ll take in a bit of the scenery with a drive into the mountains to visit a bizarre and beautiful mineral springs called Hierve el Agua. Bring a suit; if it’s a warm day you can take a dip. Good walking shoes are needed for an optional short but steep hike. We’ll also visit a local distillery that makes mezcal (older brother of tequila) where we’ll learn how this strong spirit, essential on all Day of the Dead altars, is crafted. And, of course, a tasting is on the menu. We’ll also have the opportunity to learn more about the cultivation and ecology of the agave plants essential to the production of mezcal and local economies. Overnight: Mitla.

Day 6: Our morning begins with a visit to the colorful and lively Day of the Dead market in Mitla, just out the front door of our hotel. We’ll do some specific shopping while here because today we’ll be contributing to a traditional altar. We might even have a change to peek into a local baker and see what goes into making bread for this festival. In the altar room of a local home we will learn about how and why the altar is set up as it is. There will be flowers, food, and incense. Afterward, we’ll visit the iconic ruins of the palaces of Mitla for which this town is famous. Overnight: Mitla.

Day 7: There is a peak above the nearby village of Teotitlan that has long been considered a sacred site. On the crags sit three crosses, and on a certain day once a year everyone who can hikes to the crosses. Today isn’t that day, which means there will be room on the trail for us. We’ll start our day with this trek, before descending back down to the village of Teotitlan for some less aerobic visiting. We’ll meet one of the wool tapestry weavers in this village of a thousand weavers, as well as traditional beeswax candle makers to see what they are cooking up. We’ll enjoy a homemade lunch as well. Afternoon will find us back in Oaxaca city, and you will have the afternoon and evening off to wander the streets. There will be plenty going on in town tonight as the souls parade about! Overnight: Oaxaca.

Day 8: We begin our day with a visit to the Rome of the Zapotecs — Monte Alban. One of the oldest and largest ceremonial and urban centers of Mesoamerica, Monte Alban is where some 40,000 people lived at its peak over 1,500 years ago. In the softening light of the afternoon, it is a silent reminder of a grand past. We’ll enjoy a guided walk among the great stone pyramids, plazas, ball court, and palace areas of this fallen city. Coming down from this hilltop ceremonial center, we’ll get to know the city of Oaxaca, with a tour through her streets and a few notable places. We’ll set you free for a pause before we meet for our final dinner as a group of travelers, and a chance to reminisce. Our last visit of this journey into Oaxaca, perhaps the one you’ve all been waiting for, is to a graveyard filled with glowing candles, orange flowers, the voices of the living, and the souls of the departed as Day of the Dead is celebrated into the night. Overnight: Oaxaca City.

Day 9: Breakfast and departures from Oaxaca airport (OAX). Airport transfers are not included, but vans will be available to transport you from the hotel to the airport for about $10 per person.

Please note: Weather or other conditions may require changes to this itinerary. All itineraries are subject to change without notice.

Getting There

The trip begins and ends at our hotel in Oaxaca, Mexico (OAX). You might want to arrive a day or two early to avoid the difficulties that arise from delayed or canceled flights and to make sure that you can attend our 5:30 p.m. orientation meeting on day one. This also will allow you to rest up and explore Oaxaca before our trip begins. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

This trip has been designed to take us off the beaten track into the cultural heart of Oaxaca, so our accommodations in some places, by necessity, will be simple but clean and comfortable in order to access certain very special indigenous people and villages. In Oaxaca, we will stay in a four-star, family-owned hotel. Rooms will be double-occupancy with bathrooms en suite. Single travelers will be matched with a roommate of the same gender. Single rooms may be available for an extra charge—check with the trip leader. If you plan to arrive early or stay later in Oaxaca, we would be happy to help you make arrangements to stay at our hotel if space is available.

Meals will be served at our hotels, at local restaurants, or by local communities or households. Some meals will be gourmet and others will be quite basic, but filling and tasty. Rice, beans, and tortillas are staples. Meals prepared by local households are prepared with our health and sanitation in mind. Due to the preparation and authenticity of the traditional meals we cook with the local communities, it is not possible to cater to vegetarian, lactose, or gluten-free dietary needs on this trip. Please consult the leader if you have any questions.

Trip Difficulty

Potential trip members should be familiar with the nature and demands of adventure eco-travel. There will be some long, bumpy, and dusty rides on rutted dirt tracks. Hiking will range from moderate to moderately strenuous, with at least one hike taking three to five hours. Most of our trails will be well traveled but rocky and uneven in surface due to centuries of use. Those who don’t wish to hike or cannot hike may stay at the hotel or with the van.

We recommend that all participants engage in an active, pre-trip walking regimen so as to maximize their full enjoyment of the trip since we will be on our feet a fair amount of time each day. All participants will need a spirit of discovery and a high level of flexibility since unforeseen glitches can and do occur and might require a change in our itinerary. Finally, everyone should be reasonably comfortable being in a group, trying different types of food, adapting to local customs, and getting off the beaten path.

Equipment and Clothing

We will be traveling at the beginning of the dry season, so we have less of a chance receiving some rain and thunderstorms. Temperatures will range in the 50s-80s Fahrenheit in the valleys, but may get considerably cooler in the mountains. Humidity is generally low, so the higher temperatures should be tolerable for most folks and, whenever possible, we will avoid being out in the open during the heat of the day. For evenings and early mornings in the mountains, a warm jacket, cap, and gloves would be good items to throw into your suitcase.

The most important equipment will be your daypack for daily necessities (water, camera, binoculars, journal, etc.) and really good, broken-in footwear. Either mid- to light-weight hiking boots or walking shoes with a good lugged sole are acceptable. A collapsible hiking pole is a must. It’s especially helpful in protecting your knees on the downhills, and you will find it indispensable on the many stream crossings. A full packing list will be provided prior to the trip.

References

• Greenfield, Amy Butler, The Perfect Red: Empire, Espionage and the Quest for the Color of Desire. The wild story of a little pest from Oaxaca that was and still is the best natural red dye in the world.
• Sachs, Oliver, Oaxaca Journal. Dr. Sach’s engaging journal from his own tour of Oaxaca.
• Simmons, Joel, Endangered Mexico: An Environment on the Edge. Interesting and insightful tales about environmental issues in Mexico.
• Whipperman, Bruce, Moon Oaxaca (Moon Handbooks). Arguably the best guidebook out there on Oaxaca.
• Rothstein, Arden Aibel, Mexican Folk Art from Oaxacan Artist Families. An overview of artisan families in the Oaxaca valleys. Lots of good pictures.
• Mendoza, Mary Jane Gagnier, Oaxaca Celebration, Family, Food, and Fiestas in Teotitlan. An intriguing look at a year’s worth of colorful festivities. [Note: we will be visiting Teotitlan during our trip]
• Wasserspring, Lois, Oaxacan Ceramics: Traditional Folk Art by Oaxacan Women. A look at six Oaxacan potters, and their work and stories.
• Howell and Webb, A Guide to the Birds of Mexico and North Central America. Very complete and quite hefty. Recommended for serious birders only.

Conservation

Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, who encourage grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward greater understanding, advocacy, and participation in the goals of the Club. Environmental topics on this outing include deforestation and soil erosion, as well as cultural preservation. We will stay in, and you’ll learn about, communities that are trying to develop the eco-tourism trade so as to attract hard currency and preserve jobs in their own villages. We will also visit some of the efforts designed to preserve the folk art of the region, and you’ll have a chance to learn about their practices and challenges.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.