Peaks, Passes, and Panoramas in Yosemite and the Ansel Adams Wilderness, California

The Trip

“Walk away quietly in any direction and taste the freedom of the mountaineer. Camp out among the grasses and gentians of glacial meadows, in craggy garden nooks full of nature's darlings. Climb the mountains and get their good tidings, Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. As age comes on, one source of enjoyment after another is closed, but nature's sources never fail.” - John Muir, Our National Parks

Our trip will begin in the Ansel Adams Wilderness and hike over four mountain passes in the remote, less traveled southern portion of Yosemite National Park. We will backpack mostly on trail and above timberline on a journey rarely experienced by most who come to visit Yosemite. Our hike will take us into four major drainage basins, including the headwaters of the Merced and the San Joaquin rivers. Our return route will loop over Isberg Pass and descend back into the Ansel Adams Wilderness.

This trip is well suited for the intermediate backpacker who is comfortable hiking above timberline. Our route starts at 7,000 feet and will climb 1,800 feet the first day. We will hike between 5 to 10 miles each day with camp selections mostly between 9,000 and 10,000 feet. This trip requires some backpacking or hiking experience at elevations above 10,000 feet and on uneven rocky terrain for short segments of cross-country travel. We will ascend over Red Peak Pass (11,200 feet) and Isberg Pass (10,510 feet), and have opportunities to explore nearby mountain peaks and alpine lakes. Come hike with us and enjoy this moderate 48-mile mountain pass loop that is rich in diverse environmental habitats and geological history.

Our hiking schedule is not rigid. The route and itinerary described below should be taken as a general plan, and the actual details may depart from this plan as conditions dictate.  How far we get each day and where we camp depends on snow conditions, stream runoff, progress (and whims) of the group, campsite availability, and other factors may require the leaders to make adjustments. Please plan to be flexible and bring a good sense of humor to the trip — you can be assured of having a memorable and satisfying adventure!

Day 1: Plan to arrive between 3:00 and 5:00 p.m. on Sunday. We will meet at the Clover Meadow Campground, located in the Sierra National Forest. Camping will be available and all participants are strongly encouraged to arrive by 5:00 p.m. There are no services at or near the campground. Bring your own dinner to camp as there are no stores or cafes nearby. After dinner there will be time to review the route, answer questions, and finalize our trip gear.

Day 2: Breakfast will be served at 7:00 a.m. After brief introductions, we will disperse group commissary and answer questions before we leave. We’ll also move some cars to the end point of the trip, not far away, at Granite Creek. Our hiking will begin right at the Clover Meadow Campground trailhead (7,000 feet). Today we will hike 7 miles along a forested trail and ascend 1,800 feet into the southernmost part of the Clark Range beneath Madera Peak. Camp tonight will be just below timberline in the granite basin of Staniford Lakes (8,800 feet). 

Day 3: Today we will continue our hike as we make our way up Fernandez Pass (10,175 feet) on the trail beneath Sing and Gale peaks.  From the top of the pass we’ll enjoy a view of the upper basin of the South Fork of the Merced River. With a short descent into the cirque below Gale Peak, we will conclude our 7-mile day by making camp at Breeze Lake (9,631 feet).

Day 4: Today we will start early with a 6-mile hike before lunch. Our hike heads down from Breeze Lake, then over Merced Pass (9,310 feet) before we stop for lunch near upper Merced Pass Lake (8,920 feet). After lunch, we will continue 3 miles with a 700-foot climb to the beautiful and scenic Ottoway Lakes. We will make camp at Lower Ottoway Lake (9,650 feet).

Day 5: We start a 5-mile day with a climb up to Red Peak Pass (11,075 feet) -- the highest trail pass in Yosemite. The steady 1,600-foot climb up to the pass is known for its breathtaking views of the Clark, Cathedral, and Ritter ranges. As we make our way down from the pass, the reward of our climb will continue as we're treated to expansive and panoramic views of the high country as we approach our camp at Red Devil Lake for a relaxing afternoon.

Day 6: Today’s 6-mile trek takes us through the Merced Peak and Triple Peak Fork basins of the Merced River. Ten Mile Meadow affords extraordinary views of the Lyell Fork canyon in the distance. Our scenic lakeside camp at 10,000 feet beneath Iceberg Peak is an ideal location for an evening to converse, connect, and savor the sweetness of the mountains near the headwaters of the Merced River. 

Day 7: Our last significant ascent will be over Isberg Pass (10,500 feet). Today our hike will begin with a climb of 500 feet to the pass. With much anticipation, a grand view of Triple Divide Peak and Post Peak, the Clark Range, the Cathedral Range, and the Ritter Range await. From here we will return to the Ansel Adams Wilderness and the upper basin of the Granite Creek watershed. Our hike will continue another 3.5 miles on trail along the upper Isberg lakes. We might take a short cross-country traverse to McClure Lake (9,600 feet) for our last night in the mountains.

Day 8: Our packs will be light as we prepare to make our final 2,500-foot descent along the East Fork of Granite Creek. We will start toward Cora Lakes, continue through the Niche and conclude our journey at the Granite Creek CG. We will then drive a short distance on a dirt road to our parked vehicles near the Clover Meadows trailhead.

Getting There

The Clover Meadow Ranger Station and campground are located in the Sierra National Forest southeast of Yosemite National Park. It is about 100 miles north of Fresno, 260 miles east of San Francisco, and 320 miles north of Los Angeles.

The nearest airport is the Fresno International airport. Other airport options are located in the San Francisco Bay Area and Los Angeles areas.  If you are planning to fly, you will need to rent a car or prearrange ride sharing. There is no public transportation available to the campground.

The campground is located in a remote area and there are no services available. It is a 2.5-hour drive from Oakhurst and a 2-hour drive from North Fork. You must allow extra time to arrive by day one (Sunday) at 5:00 p.m. Return flights should not be scheduled on the same day that we hike out.

Please do not make travel arrangements until the leader has confirmed you as a trip member.

Accommodations and Food

All meals are included beginning with breakfast on Monday just before we hit the trail, and concluding with lunch on the last day. Meals will be healthy and vegetarian friendly. However, please let the trip leaders know of any food allergies or dietary restrictions when you apply. Boiled water and tablets for treating group water will be provided. A gravity water filter system will also be made available for group use. For any non-group personal water treatment, you must provide your own water purification method. Trip participants will share in the responsibility of daily meal preparation and clean up while on trail. Throughout our trip, we will adhere to all land agency regulations and guidelines as well as the principles of Leave No Trace (LNT).

Backpacking in the Sierra Nevada requires preparation for variable weather and travel conditions, including thunderstorms, rain, snow, and wind. Participants are required to provide their own rain shelter and sleeping bags. All backcountry camps will be eco-friendly and selected on the principles of Leave No Trace. 

Trip Difficulty

The trip is rated between a strong 3 to a 4 on a scale from 1 to 5 (with a 5 being the most difficult). This hike is best suited for the experienced intermediate backpacker who can travel 8 to 10 miles a day with a 40- to 45-pound pack over varied terrain and moderate daily elevation gain and loss. Although our hike is mostly on trail, the loop is nearly 50 miles long. On the first day we will have a climb of 1,800 feet and fully loaded packs. The last day will be 10 miles long and we will descend 2,500 feet. This trip requires excellent health and fitness, appropriate gear, and flexibility for the changing conditions that are often encountered in the High Sierra.

Equipment and Clothing

The Sierra Club will provide group cooking equipment, a group first aid kit, water purification tablets (you may bring a personal water filter if you prefer), and bear-resistant food storage canisters. At the start of the trip you will be given a full bear canister and/or a portion of the group gear with a combined weight of up to 15 pounds. It is very important that you limit your personal gear and pack weight to no more than 25 pounds, so that together with 1-2 liters of water your total pack weight will be less than 45 pounds.  We require that you bring or plan to share a tent (highly recommended) or lightweight tarp (at a minimum), sturdy and comfortable broken-in boots that provide good ankle support, a sleeping bag that will keep you warm in freezing temperatures, a small personal first-aid kit, and a waterproof rain jacket and pants.

The leader will send detailed equipment recommendations to participants well in advance of the trip. More information regarding personal gear may be found at the following link: http://www.knapsack.org/basic_equipment.html

References

Maps:

• The Ansel Adams Wilderness Trail Map published by Tom Harrison Maps (www.tomharrisonmaps.com).
• Yosemite National Park Recreation Map published by Tom Harrison Maps (www.tomharrisonmaps.com) is a basic map of the area and includes our intended route. 
• The U.S.G.S. 7.5-minute series maps: Timber Knob, Mt. Lyell, Sing Peak, and Merced Peak (1:125,000) a more detailed map of the area.

Books:

• Clark, Ginny, Ansel Adams Wilderness (Western Trails Publications).  Maps, trail descriptions, and area history. 
• Hill, Mary, Geology of the Sierra Nevada (University of California Press). “A smooth-flowing, easily read historical account of the ‘Sierra Nevada through the ages.’” – G.D. Howell
• Laws, John Muir, The Laws Field Guide to the Sierra Nevada (California Academy of Sciences). 
• Secor, R.J., The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails (The Mountaineers Books). An excellent general reference to climbing routes, cross-country routes, and trails in the Sierra Nevada.
• Sanborn, Margaret, Yosemite (Yosemite Association). A book about its discovery, its wonders, and its people.
• Farquhar, Francis, History of the Sierra Nevada. A good primer on the history of the Sierra Nevada.

Websites:

• Equipment: http://www.knapsack.org/basic_equipment.html
• General information and photos about Sierra Club High Sierra backpacking: http://www.knapsack.org
• Yosemite Conservancy: http://www.yosemiteconservancy.org/

Conservation

“Humankind has not woven the web of life.
We are but one thread within it.
Whatever we do to the web, we do to ourselves.
All things are bound together.
All things connect.”
- Chief Seattle, 1854

The Sierra Club Outings program provides an excellent opportunity for members to discuss current problems while also celebrating past conservation victories.

Our hike will take us into two major watersheds of the Sierra Nevada -- the Merced River and the San Joaquin River. We invite participants to think about past, current, and future issues impacting our natural water resources, climatic conditions, and habitat environments. We will have opportunities to discuss your thoughts and concerns related to these topics as well as explore how we can continue to make contributions to the protection and preservation of these resources.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and will operate under permits from the Sierra National Forest and Yosemite National Park.