Spring Rafting, Hiking, Wildflowers, and Wilderness Canyons, Upper Salt River, Arizona

The Trip

In the lower elevation mountains and canyons of eastern Arizona, spring explodes in March with desert wildflowers and colorful sunrises. During this multi-activity adventure, we’ll explore Boyce Thompson Arboretum State Park -- by rafting and hiking the remote 2,000-foot-deep canyons of the upper Salt River Wilderness, home to 20-foot-tall multi-armed saguaro cacti and Indian cliff dwellings. Several side canyons are geologically and scenically unique and reveal oasis-like microhabitats with spring-fed creeks that are a lush reprieve from the prickly cactus environment. There is adequate time for hikes through several of these wild side canyons. Then we’ll jump back in the rafts and carefully float past southern bald eagles nesting in riverside cottonwood trees and cliff sides. It is possible to observe other wildlife, ranging from bighorn sheep and song birds to lizards and peregrine falcons. Scenic, riverside, undeveloped campsites are abundant and accessible only by raft.

Ancient Salado and, more recently, Apache Indians lived in these canyons as evidenced by cliff dwellings, rock art, and granaries. On the water we’ll respectfully float past the spectacular travertine-lined spring called Salt Banks, which gave the river its contemporary name. The Salt Banks are very important to the Apache Indians because it is an element in their creation story. In fact, much of one side of the river is the White Mountain Apache Indian Reservation. Almost all of the non-Indian lands we encounter are protected within the 32,000-acre Salt River Canyon Wilderness Area in the Tonto National Forest. During this outing a special emphasis is placed on learning about the area’s Indian culture and natural resources.

But you can not ignore the river itself. The Salt is relatively small volume, but exciting as we engage rapids every day in oar- and paddle-powered rafts. This river is perfect for paddle rafts. We’ll enjoy numerous class III (Intermediate) rapids and six class IV (advanced), including a big one named Quartzite. This is a wild undammed river and water levels can vary widely, depending on upstream runoff and temperatures. Wetsuits are provided to ward off cold splashes. Our licensed guides are experienced professionals very familiar with these rapids and canyons. They will help keep you safe and share their knowledge of the canyon's secrets.  The number of persons allowed to float the river is limited ensuring uncrowded conditions for a high-quality experience. During part of one day we will assist the U.S Forest Service with a service project in the wilderness area.

There is a rich mining history to the area. We’ll see historic mines and learn about a proposal for a massive copper mine that would significantly impact a scenic location outside the canyon. 

Sights to see before or after the river trip include: Superstition Mountains Wilderness and hiking trails (east of Mesa/Apache Junction), and Saguaro National Park (east of Tucson).

Day one consists of an optional hike and archaeological tour during the day, followed by a mandatory pre-river trip orientation at 7:00 p.m. The next day we embark on a four-day rafting trip down the Salt River. Our river trip itinerary provides a relaxed pace with exciting rapids to run and many side canyons to explore by foot. We also hope to engage in a short service project during the river trip, in cooperation with the U.S. Forest Service.

Day 1:

Optional: 1:00 p.m., meet at entrance to Boyce Thompson Arboretum State Park east of the city of Apache Junction, on U.S. Highway 60. This park is famous for its spring wildflowers at this time of year and varied desert flora. Here you’ll have a quick introduction to the desert vegetation during a docent-led hike. Then we drive to the town of Globe and enjoy a brief tour in the Besh Ba Gowah Archaeological Park, an outstanding example of ancient Indian culture of the region.  It is then just a five-minute drive to our motel meeting place in Globe, AZ. No meals are included in the trip cost this day. Tonight's motel is not included in the trip cost.

Mandatory: At 7:00 p.m., meet in the lobby of a nice motel in Globe, AZ (detailed motel information will be provided upon registration). Here your Sierra Club leader and the river trip head guide will hold a pre-river trip orientation, hand out waterproof bags for the rafting trip, and answer any of your questions. Dinner is on your own. Overnight at a motel in Globe (on your own).

Day 2: At 7:30 a.m., we meet in the lobby of a motel in Globe and then you are shuttled by van about 45 minutes to the office of our river outfitter at the bottom of Salt River Canyon, where Highway 60 crosses the river. They will fit you with a wetsuit. After the safety talk, we launch on the river and plunge through Class III-IV rapids, learn about the canyon ecosystems and geology, and watch for wildlife. We will pass by the sacred Salt Banks. Lunch is provided and we will try a hike up Walnut Creek Canyon and then finish the day with class IV Rat Trap rapid before camp. Dinner is served, and there will be an evening discussion on history and wildlife of the Salt River Canyon. Breakfast on your own, but lunch and dinner are provided. Camping in the wilderness.

Day 3: Coffee is brewed and breakfast is served. Start off with rapids in White Rock Canyon and stop at Canyon Creek to do a short hike, watch for wildlife, and talk about ecology and geology of the Salt. After eating lunch in Gleason Flats, we will see a historic mine and mill, then participate in a short service project with a U.S. Forest Service ranger. The afternoon will bring two big class III and IV rapids, Eye of the Needle and Black Rock. Camp and dinner will be at or near Hess Canyon to stage for tomorrow morning's hike. There will be talks on geology as we camp among some of the oldest rocks on the planet. All meals provided. Wilderness camping.

Day 4: After coffee and breakfast we start with a hike through the beautiful polished quartzite rock of Hess Canyon. We then jump back in the rafts and continue down river through the biggest class IV rapids on the Salt, including the Maze, Quartzite, and Corkscrew. Lunch will be served at/near Cherry Creek before an afternoon hike to observe some Indian ruins and stunning views of the canyon. Camp will be at/near Horseshoe Bend with a discussion of Indian culture in the canyon. All meals provided.

Day 5: After coffee we float through moderate rapids to Chalk Creek, where we will do a short hike and then have lunch. We will float to the take-out and you’ll be off the river about 2:30 p.m. You are then shuttled back to your cars at the motel meeting place in Globe, where the trip ends; we should arrive back around 4 p.m. At 7:00 p.m. in Globe there will be an optional, lively farewell dinner (not included in trip price). Breakfast and lunch provided; dinner is not included.

Getting There

You are responsible for getting to and from our meeting places at Boyce Thompson Arboretum State Park (optional day one activity site east of Town of Apache Junction) and then to our motel in Globe, Arizona (mandatory pre-river trip meeting place). It is about 57 miles from Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport to Boyce Thompson Park (BTP), and then 27 miles from there to Globe on U.S. Highway 60. It will take about 1.5 hours, depending on traffic, to drive from the Phoenix airport to BTP.  The normal travel alternative is to fly into the Phoenix (or Tucson) airport and drive a rental car east on major highways to the meeting place. There is no airline service to Globe. Your Sierra Club trip leader will try to organize carpools to help those not wanting to drive and to reduce our impact. Detailed directions to the meeting places and a map will be provided upon registration.

Accommodations and Food

If you plan to meet at Boyce Thompson Park and go on the optional tour and hikes, then you should stay in a motel in the Phoenix/Mesa area, with its many lodging options, the night prior. You should stay at lodging in the town of Globe the night of day one, as the mandatory orientation and shuttle to the river begin here. Motels in Globe are clean and inexpensive but relatively ordinary. A selection of motels in Globe, including where we will meet, will be provided to you upon registration.

Well-balanced meals with quality fresh meats, fruits, and vegetables are provided. See the trip itinerary for what meals are provided each day. There is a vegetarian option at each meal. The guides double as camp chefs and the menu includes a wide variety of dishes. Lunches usually are served picnic-style at riverside stops. Dinners and breakfasts are cooked and often include tasty Dutch oven-baked treats. Coffee, tea, hot chocolate are provided at breakfast and dinner, with lemonade or similar drink at lunch.  If you have a special dietary need, please inform the leader upon enrollment. It may not be possible to meet all special dietary requests, but the sooner the request is received, the better the chance.

The river provides plenty of highs and excitement. For your safety and the safety and enjoyment of others, no drinking alcohol is allowed during the day while on the river. No soda or alcoholic drinks are provided. However, you may bring your favorite soda or other beverages in plastic bottles or cans for camp.

Trip Difficulty

Elevations range from about 2,000 feet at the end of the river trip to nearly 4,000 feet along the rim of the upper canyon. On the international scale of I (easy) to VI (unrunnable), the Salt River Canyon at this time of year is overall rated Class III (moderate), but there are six Class IV (advanced) rapids. It is suitable for hardy individuals with varied camping experience. Previous rafting experience is highly recommended but not required. Minimum age for this trip is 16. This is considered a spring trip, and the low desert and canyons can be chilly at night. Daytime high temperatures range from 50-80 degrees. Nighttime lows are usually in the 40s. Thunderstorms are possible at any time. The water will be cold since it is just two or three days removed from the snowpack. Past trips have taught us to be prepared for anything, from hot, dry, and calm, to cold, wet, and windy. So we'll have to pack for cool weather and a wetsuit is provided. We will maintain a leisurely pace, allowing plenty of time for hiking, photography, and exploring. Our day-to-day itinerary on the river is flexible depending on water levels, weather conditions, and the inclination of the members. The total trip length of 50 miles will, however, remain the same.

Our side-canyon hikes are very scenic with moderate to short steep pitches requiring some scrambling. There are no maintained trails in the area outside of BTP. Hikes are optional but an important part of this outing. Good physical conditioning is important in any true wilderness outing. We strongly recommend for maximum enjoyment and personal safety during the outing that you engage in a program of regular exercise and hikes prior to the trip.

Although we make every effort to ensure a safe trip and we have an excellent safety record, whitewater boating, hiking, and wilderness travel involve some risks. Physical challenges are inherent in rafting and are partly why people seek this kind of adventure. If you elect to participate, you must be in good health and willing to participate in a few group chores and activities. Trip members are expected to setup their tents and assist in loading and unloading the rafts. The trip leader will screen participants for their suitability for the trip in advance of final acceptance. 

Equipment and Clothing

Professional boats and rafting equipment are provided, including a wetsuit. You’ll receive one large waterproof bag for your clothes and camping gear. Each raft has a watertight “day bag” for carrying items you need to have very accessible during the day. A complete personal gear checklist is given upon acceptance. You can rent a sleeping bag, ground cloth, and inflatable pad—if you let the Sierra Club trip leader know at least two weeks in advance. Two-person tents can also be rented. You won't need much else beyond your personal items. A checklist of clothing and personal items to bring will be provided upon registration. 

References

Even a rudimentary grasp of the desert Southwest's natural and human history will greatly enhance your experience on this trip. The following are especially recommended:

• Watt, Eva, Don't Let the Sun Step Over You: A White Mountain Apache Family Life. University of Arizona Press, 2004. An engaging family history of the Apache Indians that have lived near the Salt River.
• Butler, Elias. “Outdoors: A devil of a canyon.” Arizona Daly Sun.  January 30, 2012. Current plans about the proposed copper mine near Globe, AZ.
• Childs, Craig, The Secret Knowledge of Water: Discovering the Essence of the American Desert. Back Bay Books, 2001. An award-winning book on nature and water in the Southwest.
• National Geographic Maps: Trails Illustrated. 2009. Salt River Canyon. Tonto NF #852 Nat G.  
• Leopold, Aldo. A Sand County Almanac and Sketches Here and There. Oxford Press, 1968. Considered the finest nature writing since Thoreau, it explores environmental ethics and muses about natural places, including locations close to the Salt River in Arizona. 
• Abbey, Edward. Desert Solitaire. Touchstone Press, 1990. Abbey's classic, poetic description of his seasons in Arches National Monument.

Conservation

"Let us remember that we cannot create wild rivers, we can only spare and celebrate them."  - David Brower, 1995

The area around Globe has seen extensive copper mining and contains one of the largest open pit mines in Arizona. Mining continues today and is an important part of the area economy. Near the Boyce Thompson Arboretum State Park Boyce is the center of one of the largest environmental controversies in Arizona. The foreign-owned Resolution Copper Company has proposed an exchange of 2,422 acres of U.S. Forest Service land in the Tonto National Forest for 5,344 acres of environmentally sensitive land currently owned by the company. With the land swap, the company would create a huge copper mine capable of providing ¼ of the country’s copper per year, but at a tremendous environmental cost. The transferred land includes Oak Flat campground, an area recognized by President Eisenhower as an important area back in 1955, when he signed Public Land Order 1229, which specifically put this land off limits to future mining activity. Oak Flat and nearby Devils Canyon, with its perennial water, provide critical wildlife habitat and many recreational opportunities like hiking, camping, rock climbing, birding and bouldering. The area is a key birding area. Five Indian tribes and the environmental community oppose the land swap. In March 2016 the U.S. Forest Service began preparation of an environmental impact statement to study the potential impacts of the mine. You’ll learn about the proposal and the area from your Sierra Club leader and local residents.

The Salt River and its canyons are indeed a unique rare natural resource, especially in an arid state like Arizona. In addition to exhilarating river-running, the canyon has numerous Indian archaeological sites, nesting sites for the southern bald eagle and many other birds and rare geological formations. The Salt River here is a free-flowing river that maintains a natural hydrograph and fishery. But dams have been proposed upstream and the Tonto National Forest and the Salt River have been at the center of several conservation battles in the last century. Below the take-out for our trip are five dams that divert all of the river’s water to the Phoenix metropolitan area. We’ll discuss the need to protect the last remaining wild river sections, the imperative for water conservation and how we can help. 

Off highway vehicle trespass into the Salt River Canyon Wilderness Area is a real issue. Destruction of vegetation from vehicles is evident in places. We are hoping to conduct a short service project with the U.S. Forest. Your guides have been active in grassroots efforts to protect the Salt River canyon and river flows of the Salt for future generations. They will share information about current issues and how you can help.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.