Swamp, Sea, and Big Trees: Kayaking South Carolina

The Trip

The coastal plain of South Carolina is an amazing place, featuring numerous wildlife, one of the largest strands of old-growth forest in the world, mysterious swamps, beautiful beaches and barrier islands, and surreal landscapes. Some of these beautiful landscapes were created by nature, and some were created by man -- you be the judge as to who did a better job. Featuring both freshwater and saltwater within close proximity, the diversity of varied wildlife and ecosystems is mind boggling. The most productive ecosystem on the entire planet, the salt marsh, calls the coastal plain home. We’ll kayak, hike, and explore the diverse landscapes of this amazing area: winding our way by kayak through thick stands of bald cypress and tupelo gum in a confusing maze of water and trees; hiking under one of the tallest forest canopies in the world, as we look up in amazement; exploring the largest lake in South Carolina by eco-boat, gliding above a buried forest that sits beneath the water; and tasting the saltwater as we step into the mighty Atlantic Ocean on the beach of a completely undeveloped barrier island. As you will discover, this is a one-of-a-kind area that reveals its secrets to only those explorers who spend the time searching for them.

The 2,500-acre Santee State Park is a nature lover's paradise that first opened in 1949. It is located on the south shore of Lake Marion, one of the two Santee-Cooper Lakes (along with Lake Moultrie) that were created when more than 100,000 acres were flooded for hydro-electric power in 1941. Lake Marion’s flooded forest offers surreal views, with cypress trees in the middle of this manmade lake that has a 315-mile shoreline. Lake Marion is known for its big fish and abundant wildlife, including bass, perch, catfish, deer, fox, dove, wild turkey, turtle, alligator, and various species of duck, hawk, eagle, egret, and osprey.

The flooded forest includes many surreal landscapes, such as 16,000-acre Sparkleberry Swamp located at the north end of Lake Marion. The swamp is a maze of trees and water, with seemingly no way out! The 13,000-acre Santee National Wildlife Refuge is also located on the north shore of Lake Marion. The refuge provides a major wintering area for ducks and geese, as well as a nesting and stopover area for neo-tropical migratory birds, raptors, shore birds, and wading birds.

In 1969, the Sierra Club launched a grassroots campaign to save an area of old-growth forest from private landowners interested in relatively high timber prices. The result of this campaign was the establishment by Congress of Congaree National Monument in 1976. Congress designated the monument Congaree National Park in 2003 and expanded its boundaries. The park is currently almost 27,000 acres in size. Congaree was named for the Native American tribe that lived here centuries ago. The primary significance of Congaree National Park is demonstrated through its unique bottomland hardwood forest communities, the overall height of the forest canopy and associated number of national and state champion trees, as well as the presence of a well preserved, biologically diverse, and dynamic river floodplain ecosystem. The park has one of the largest concentrations of champion trees in the entire world. Both the Congaree River and Cedar Creek flow through the park, providing great paddling opportunities for visitors. There are also numerous hiking trails and a relatively new visitor center to explore.

Fifty percent of the South Carolina Coast is protected in one form or another. Capers Island is an undeveloped barrier island that is owned and managed by the State of South Carolina Department of Natural Resources. Walking the pristine beach through the “boneyard beach” section of dead trees is an experience not to be missed. The city of Charleston is impressive not only because it is regularly named as one of the top cities in the entire world to visit, but also because it is surrounded by nearly a million acres of preserved areas within an hour’s drive of the city. These areas provide endless paddling and other recreational opportunities, as well as critical wildlife habitat in an ever-growing urban area.

There are very few -- if any -- places in the world that offer the diverse landscapes and beauty of the coastal plain of South Carolina, which of course includes swamp, sea, and big trees!

Day 1: We will meet at our lodging at 4 p.m. After assigning cabins, making introductions, and enjoying a huge welcome dinner featuring local cuisine, we’ll go over the itinerary for the week.

Day 2: We’ll get everyone geared up and give paddling instruction before embarking on our first kayak/hike adventure in the Cuddo Unit of Santee National Wildlife Refuge. We will paddle through a lotus- and fragrant water lily-covered oxbow, into a creek, and out to Lake Marion and the islands. There should be dozens of active osprey nests this time of year as we paddle along. Willow and cypress trees dot the islands, providing habitat for heron rookeries that are visible from the water. We will likely encounter alligators, songbirds, and wading birds galore. Afterward, we can walk some of the many trails in the area and search for more wildlife. An adventurous and exciting first day-welcome to The South! Today will include 3-4 hours of paddling and 1-2 hours of hiking.

Day 3: Spreading southeast from the meandering Congaree River, Congaree National Park encompasses nearly 27,000 acres and contains the largest tract of old-growth bottomland hardwoods in the entire United States. These trees make up one of the highest forest canopies in the world. Included in the forest is a national champion Loblolly pine that stands 167 feet high! We’ll paddle and hike past the ghostly Spanish moss that drips from the bald cypresses, and enter a lush backcountry inhabited by bobcats, deer, playful river otters, barred owls, woodpeckers, and several other bird species. Brown water snakes and red-bellied water snakes are also commonly seen in the park, while cottonmouths are spotted occasionally. According to local legends, the cypress tree’s trademark “knees” -- small knobby growths -- are really wood elves who come to life at night to dance through the forest. Whether this is true or not, we can all agree that Congaree National Park is truly a magical and enchanting place. Today will be a full day: we’ll be on the water for 3-4 hours, hike the boardwalk for 1-2 hours, and a stop off at the relatively new Harry Hampton Visitor Center.

Day 4: Today, we stay close to home and explore our own backyard, and what a backyard it is, featuring the largest lake in South Carolina: Lake Marion!  We will spend the better part of the day on a historical eco-boat tour, exploring the sunken, flooded forests below Lake Marion and unique places that are only accessible by boat. As we meander through a Bald cypress and water tupelo forest, we can anticipate seeing an abundance of wildlife. Egrets, herons, osprey, anhingas, ducks, and neo-tropical migrating songbirds all call Lake Marion home. In addition, we’ll plan on putting our kayaks into the lake at both sunrise and sunset for shorter paddles, when the view is magical and the lighting is perfect for prime picture taking! The paddling today is optional, so today is also a great day to kick back, relax, and reenergize.

Day 5: A bit of a drive today, but no trip to South Carolina would be complete without experiencing saltwater -- today we head to the coast! We’ll start with a trip to Capers Island, an undeveloped barrier island owned by the state of South Carolina and only accessible by boat.

One of the most fascinating features of Capers Island is its “bone yard beach.” This name is due to the old tree skeletons and stumps left as a result of erosion and saltwater intrusion, and bleached out by the sun. Next, we’ll jump in our kayaks to paddle historic Shem Creek. We’ll kayak among the many shrimp boats that line the creek on our way to a 22-acre island preserve called Crab Bank. Depending on the season, thousands of nesting shorebirds can be seen on Crab Bank. As we enjoy incredible views of Charleston Harbor and the Ravennel Bridge, we’ll search the water for dolphins and other creatures of the sea. We finish off the day with dinner at one of our favorite, hidden gem, local restaurants, featuring fresh local shrimp and oysters. Today will be a long day: 1+ hour of driving each way, 3-4 hours for the barrier island excursion, and 3 hours of kayaking.

Day 6: Today, we journey to Sparkleberry Swamp, a 16,000-acre submerged cypress and tupelo forest on the north end of Lake Marion. The swamp is an untamed, secluded wonderland with an abundance of wildlife. We’ll search for blue herons, white egrets, owls, woodpeckers, warblers, alligators, snakes, and beaver, as we wind our way through a confusing and surreal maze of water and trees. We will also stop at the visitor center for the 13,000 acre Santee National Wildlife Refuge, and can also do a hike if folks are up to it. With no place to get out of our kayaks, we’ll spend about 3 hours on the water today, and plan on getting back to the ranch fairly early.

Day 7: After having breakfast, packing up, and saying goodbye to new friends, the trip will be officially over by mid-morning.

Getting There

Columbia, South Carolina and Charleston, South Carolina offer the nearest major airports. We encourage carpooling to and from the lodging. We will also carpool to our daily kayak adventures and activities, and we will need volunteer drivers to make this happen. A participant roster and driving directions will be sent to all confirmed participants prior to the outing. Please do not make travel arrangements until the leader has confirmed you as a trip member.

Accommodations and Food

We will spend six nights in cabins located directly on Lake Marion. The cabins are within Santee State Park, South Carolina. Participants coming alone will share rooms and couples will room together. Participants will take turns helping the leaders prepare meals and clean up. The first meal will be dinner on day one of the outing, and the last meal will be breakfast on day seven of the outing. We will go out to dinner one time during the week; this dinner is not included in the trip price.

Trip Difficulty

Our kayak adventures will feature intermediate routes, averaging 5-10 miles in distance and 3-5 hours on the water each day on this South Carolina vacation. Walking will be short hikes of up to 3 miles on fairly flat terrain. We will stop to take periodic breaks and lunch each day. You need not be an expert kayaker, but it is expected that you have some previous kayaking experience and that you are able to keep up with the group at a reasonable pace. Basic paddling and safety instruction will be given on the first day of the outing. Each participant should understand that this is a group outing and that you will be required to stay with the group while on the water and follow all instructions given by your guides. You should be flexible as plans and itineraries often change due to weather, group ability, tides, water levels, or other unforeseen reasons. We will carpool/caravan to our various destinations throughout the week. You will be asked to share (give or get) a ride with other trip members throughout the week.

Note: Please be aware that alligators and snakes are a regular highlight on kayak adventures in South Carolina waters. They are not interested in kayaks or kayakers, but you should be comfortable paddling among this and other wildlife.

Equipment and Clothing

We will provide rental kayaks, paddles, and life jackets. You are also welcome to bring your own favorite paddle or life jacket. We will carpool/caravan to our various destinations throughout the week. We will need several vehicles and volunteer drivers to accomplish this. A full gear list will be sent to all confirmed participants prior to the outing.

References

• Edgar, Walter, South Carolina: A History. University of South Carolina Press, 1998.
• Jerman, Patricia L., South Carolina Nature Viewing Guide. University of South Carolina Press, 1998.
• Lambert, Yon, The Palmetto Trail Lowcountry Guide. Palmetto Conservation Association, 2000.
• Bowen, John, Adventuring Along the Southeast Coast. Sierra Club Books, 1999.
• Bass, Robert D., Swamp Fox: The Life of General Francis Marion. Sandlapper Publishing CO, Inc, 1974.
• Bostick, Douglass W., The Union is Dissolved: Charleston and Fort Sumter in the Civil War. The History Press, 2009.
• Hicks, Brian, Raising the Hunley. Random House Publishing Group, 2007.

Conservation

South Carolina is a state that has experienced a tremendous growth in population, as more and more people continue to make their home close to the coast in this moderate climate. Due to the way a series of events unfolded, 50 percent of the South Carolina coast is protected in one way or another. Cities like Myrtle Beach, Charleston, Beaufort, Bluffton, and Hilton Head Island continue to experience explosive growth. With no room to grow eastward, and 50 percent of the coast preserved, this growth is being directed inland and westward, to areas that were primarily rural. It is important to continue to strive to preserve more inland areas and river corridors in order to protect water quality and wildlife, as well as maintain the rural character that some of these areas are known for. We will experience some of these places up close and talk about the different forms of protection that exist in the area, such as National Park, National Wildlife Refuge, Audubon Preserve, South Carolina State Parks, and South Carolina Department of Natural Resources (DNR), as well as coalition efforts such as the ACE Basin.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and will operate under a permit from Congaree National Park.