Upper Dolpo Trek, Nepal

The Trip

On the Tibetan Plateau in the great Himalayan rain shadow, lies Dolpo -- a legendary Ba-Yul or "Hidden Land," geographically cut off from the rest of the world by a barrier of high mountains, deep gorges, and thick forests. Our 30-day trek will allow us to truly explore this remarkable place, where we’ll find a thriving and undiminished traditional Tibetan culture -- their villages possibly the highest on earth. En route we’ll pass some of the most majestic mountains in the world, including Dhaulagiri and the remote Kanjirobas.

Publishing accounts of their journeys through Dolpo in the 1950s, Tibetologists Giuseppe Tucci and David Snellgrove brought the region to the attention of the West for the first time, followed in the early 1970s by Peter Matthiessen and zoologist George Schaller, who sought blue sheep and the elusive snow leopard. Still, outside visitors, especially to Upper Dolpo, have remained few in number. Most have been deterred by the remoteness, the complicated logistics, the topography, or by government restrictions. In an attempt to preserve the unique culture and ecosystems found here, the number of visitors allowed in remains strictly limited.

Our journey through Dolpo will take us across the grain of the land like a slow roller coaster for about 250 miles. May and June are ideal months since the snow should be melted off the high passes, the monsoons have yet to begin, the skies should be clear, daylight hours will be long, birds will be active, and, hopefully, spring flowers will be emerging -- prickly blue poppies, the unusual androsace, and sleek anemones to name a few. We will have many high passes to cross on this route, the highest will be at an elevation of approximately 18,250 feet. If you are looking for a trek through verdant and comforting alpine scenery, this is not it! We will be hiking through a mostly treeless and wind-swept desert landscape of implausible gorges, high passes, and enormous vistas, desolate in its immensity. This is no tourist tea-house trek. Although rudimentary road building to connect Dolpo to the outside world has now begun, it remains remote, rugged, unspoiled, inspiring, and unforgettable -- arguably the best trek in the Himalaya.

Days 1–2: Kathmandu (4,400 feet). All participants should plan to arrive at least one day prior, as our first group activity will begin after breakfast with sightseeing in and around Boudhanath -- the largest Buddhist stupa in the world. We will have lunch there, then head back to the hotel for some time to rest before our first dinner together at a nearby restaurant. Getting up very early the next morning, we will climb up to the Swyambunath temples and enjoy the sunrise there. We will return to the hotel for breakfast, and then continue our sightseeing -- heading to holy Hindu Pashupatinath and the Sleeping Vishnu at Budhanilkantha. In the afternoon, we’ll return to the hotel to finalize preparations for the trek. 

Day 3: Kathmandu – Pokhara (3,000 feet). We will board our chartered bus early for a seven-hour drive to Pokhara, situated on Phewa Lake. We'll arrive by early afternoon with plenty of time to explore.

Day 4: Pokhara – Marpha (8,500 feet). In the early morning, we will travel by Land Cruisers up the Kali Gandaki gorge between Annapurna (26,538 feet) and Dhaulagiri (26,788 feet) all the way to the charming town of Marpha. The road is a bit rough and travel will take most of the day. In Marpha we'll be welcomed by our trekking staff, who have already set up camp for us and will be busy preparing dinner. This will be our first night in tents.

Days 5–6: Marpha – Dangorjung (10,340 feet). Early this morning we will trek up the windy Kali Gandki Valley to Eklobatti. There we cross the river and quickly leave it behind, ascending to the northwest. We'll make camp at the village of Dangorjung, with its small red-walled Buddhist temple and rows of ancient poplars. We will stay here for two nights of acclimatization -- there are day hikes to surrounding ridges, and plenty to enjoy and explore.

Day 7: Dangorjung – yak kharka (13,430 feet). As our trail continues to ascend, we can enjoy stunning views of the Annapurna massif, the deep Kali Gandaki gorge, the town of Kagbeni, and (to the northeast) the entire kingdom of Mustang. We descend from a small pass to a meadow camp by mid-afternoon. 

Day 8: Yak kharka – Sangdak (12,420 feet). Turning west, the trail floats over a pass about 14,600 feet, then drops to our first Tibetan-style village, Sangdak, "the gateway to Dolpo," which clings picturesquely to a cliff above the yawning Chalung gorge. We stop here mid-day and make camp.

Days 9–10: Sangdak – base camp (13,900 feet). Leaving Sangdak, the trail climbs steeply to a small pass before descending about a thousand feet into the Chalung gorge to cross the river on a bridge. The canyon is reminiscent of those in the American southwest. Climbing out of the gorge after lunch, we will make our way to our base camp for the upcoming major passes, situated in a scrubby, but welcoming, little juniper forest. We will stay here two (or three) nights, as necessary, for acclimatization.

Day 11: Base camp – Thasan Chu (16,290 feet). We’ll cross two passes today, so we’ll be on the trail by 6 a.m. We climb about 2,800 feet to our first pass, the Khog La (16,700 feet), then contouring into a long basin, where we’ll stop for an early lunch. After eating we begin climbing again, this time toward the Touje La -- the pass where we achieve the highest elevation of our trek, 18,250 feet. At the wind-swept summit we are rewarded with magnificent views of Dhaulagiri and Tukuche Peak to the south. Here we actually bisect the Dhaulagiri range and cross the continental divide, leaving behind the Indian subcontinent and stepping onto the Tibetan plateau. We have entered Dolpo. The long descent is gentle, and we'll continue down to camp alongside the Thasan River (chu).

Day 12: Thasan Chu – Tsharka (14,135 feet). This is an open and wild landscape -- a new world of "remote peaks crowned by remoter snows" (George Schaller). The intensity of the geology is profound; you can easily see the uplift of the Asian plate being pushed from below by India. By late-afternoon we'll drop from the plateau down to the main river, crossing it on a new bridge. The trail gently follows the river and soon Tsharka village will come into view. We make camp right in town, our home for the next two nights.

Day 13: Layover in Tsharka (14,135 feet). The Dolpopa (inhabitants of Dolpo) refer to Tsharka as "the edge of the world," and you may recognize it from scenes in Eric Valli’s film "Himalaya." We will explore this busy village, which sits at the confluence of two rivers -- of particular interest are the Bon gompa, the ruins of an ancient monastery situated across the river, the lively school, and the Health Post.

Day 14: Tsharka – Panzang Valley (15,320 feet). At the top of the pass beyond Tsharka (the Mo La, 16,600 feet), the landscape in all directions is tremendous -- behind is the imposing Dhaulagiri massif, and to the north are endless exotic peaks. We'll descend into the Panzang Valley and camp alongside the river.

Day 15: Panzang Valley – Taraka Sumdo (13,975 feet). Following the river north, we will continue downstream in the ever-widening valley. The Panzang is one of the four main valleys that comprise Upper Dolpo -- the other three being Tarap, Nangkhong, and Tsharka.

Day 16: Taraka Sumdo – Tinje (13,940 feet). Rising to the east of us is the imposing, sacred mountain Kula -- which in the local view is considered ‘of the same family’ as Shelri (Crystal Mountain) and Mt. Kailash. On its high slopes there is a pilgrim trail circling it, which locals circumambulate to collect valuable medicinal plants -- this is an especially important activity during the full moon in August. We continue up the river valley, passing through the large settlement of Tinkyu (Tinje), which we have a little time to explore before continuing on, past the old fort until we reach the school, where we find a welcome camp for the next two nights.

Day 17: Layover at Tinje (13,940 feet). Perched about one thousand vertical feet above our camp is the ancient and important Tolung Gompa. We make a morning trip up the steep trail to visit with the resident lama in his 800-year-old temple, as well as admire the views from there in all directions. We return to camp for lunch, then in the afternoon hike to the village of Polde (Soti). Especially enjoyable is visiting with the local amchi (traditional herbalist and healer) and learning about his important work.

Day 18: Tinje – Chanpola Goth (13,725 feet). Leaving Tinje, the gorge narrows considerably, and 10 miles downstream we will arrive at the prosperous village of Shimen -- its terraced buckwheat fields and little groves of willow will be a welcome sight. Turning to leave behind the main gorge, which is becoming a wild and precipitous place, we head toward our next pass (which we will cross the following day) and camp alongside a small stream.

Day 19: Chanpola Goth – Mu (13,600 feet). After continuing up the side valley, we then turn to cross a steep ridge to the north. From the pass, the Mu La (16,600 feet), the views across to Tibet are exhilarating. This is an extremely interesting, wildlife-rich area; we'll watch for herds of blue sheep, and signs of Himalayan fox, wolf, and snow leopard. We'll then descend to the settlement of Mu.

Day 20: Mu – Dora Sumdo (12,100 feet). The side drainage we follow eventually returns to the main river canyon. On the 2010 trek it was here where the group had an unbelievably lucky sighting of a snow leopard -- drinking at the stream, stretching, rolling in the dust, and eventually disappearing over the far ridge! Even if we don’t see her this time, perhaps she will be watching us. Onward we'll go to Nyisal, and then Yangtsher, one of Dolpo's oldest and most important monastery complexes. Yangtsher appears on a platform about 400 feet above the river, surrounded by prayer walls, unmistakable with its nine great chortens. We visit this highly unusual site, and then continue downstream to camp at the confluence of two rivers. 

Day 21: Dora Sumdo – Karang (13,762 feet). Following the river briefly, we then ascend to the thriving village of Karang, nestled in a gentle upland valley. After taking some time to visit, a little way past the village we will make early afternoon camp in the health post’s garden. There is plenty of time after lunch for those who wish to descend to Saldang village and explore there before returning to camp and dinner.

Day 22: Karang – Namgung (14,485 feet). This morning we start up to cross a ridge about a thousand feet above the camp, then descend steeply into a dramatic canyon and the village of Namgung. We have the afternoon to explore the village and its ancient gompa.

Day 23: Namgung – Shey (14,255 feet). Today we cross the windswept Se La, a pass of about 16,800 feet. After a rugged descent through rock, scree and ice, we stop for lunch in a meadow, before continuing to Shey and camp.

Day 24: Layover at Shey (14,255 feet). Today we'll hike a few hours to visit the remote hermitage Tsakang, made famous by Matthiessen in his book The Snow Leopard. It is beautifully built, Anasazi-like, into the cliff face. Here the air, light, and sound have a rarified clarity that is like no other place on earth. Perhaps the lama will join us at our camp for dinner.

Day 25: Shey – Base camp before pass (15,950 feet). Leaving Shey, we will ascend, heading toward the Kang La, stopping mid-day to make camp. This will make crossing the pass the following day much easier. The afternoon is free for day hikes on the surrounding ridges, which offer fabulous vistas and great opportunities for viewing wildlife.

Day 26: Base camp before pass – Cave camp beyond pass (12,520 feet). Our trail ascends steeply; in about two hours we will find ourselves at the top of the Kang La (17,550 feet) to cross back over the continental divide. Snow is likely on our descent. Straight ahead lies the monumental, snow-covered northern face of the Kanjiroba range -- imposing and still. The descent is long. At the end of this demanding day we will make camp in a beautiful birch forest, alongside a roaring river.

Day 27: Cave camp beyond pass – north shore Phoksumdo Lake (11,920 feet). As we lose elevation, we enjoy the presence of trees -- beautiful blue pines and Himalayan birch with their spring green leaves. The valley broadens and finally Phoksumdo Lake appears. This lake was caused by a landslide about 40,000 years ago, creating its unusual depth -- resulting in the unearthly qualities of light and color that move through its waters. We camp on the north shore, under the birches.

Day 28: Layover north shore of Phoksumdo Lake (11,920 feet). If our schedule allows, we will take a day here to relax and enjoy the profound peace of this lake. We can day hike, or just catch up on reading and laundry. Coming from the barren north, the green of the pines and junipers and the blue of the lake seem almost surrealistic. 

Day 29: North shore of Phoksumdo Lake – Ringmo (11,920 feet). The trail along the west shore of this large lake no longer bears resemblance to the treacherous one described by Matthiessen and Schaller (or as seen in the film "Himalaya"!); it simply climbs up about 1,500 feet above the water and undulates along, but it is no longer dangerous. From this vantage point, the view of the lake is unsurpassed. The blue is like no other, and the depth almost unfathomable. We will make camp on the southern shore, a 10-minute walk from the thriving village of Ringmo.

Day 30: Ringmo – Tapriza school (10,295 feet). We'll leave the lake along its outflow stream, the Suli Gad. There will be a roar in the distance, and then it appears -- a massive 900-foot waterfall, the biggest in Nepal. A steep zigzag path descends alongside the falls. Continuing downstream, we'll make camp next to the thriving Tapriza boarding school, established specifically for Bon children in 1997. We are welcome to visit classes and enjoy whatever activities are happening that day!

Day 31: Tapriza school – Chhepka (8,150 feet). We continue downstream, following the turquoise Suli Gad, passing through thick conifer forests (some of giant red cedar) and eventually into broadleaf forests.

Day 32: Chhepka – Dunai (7,000 feet). We continue our descent along the river for about five hours and finally the Thulo Bheri River comes into view. Crossing the bridge we enter Dunai -- the biggest town since we left Jomsom a month ago. It’s the administrative center for the entire region, an interesting and lively place, but also a little shocking to us -- banks, shops, radios, and electric lights! We will visit schools and conservation offices here -- and perhaps take a warm shower.

Day 33: Dunai – Jufal (8,120 feet). A three-hour walk will bring us to Jufal, the location of the steeply inclined STOL airfield. We make camp here below the airport, as our flight will be in the early morning. This last evening we will have a party to express our gratitude to our porters and staff -- those remarkable travelling companions who have become friends, and have been so kind and helpful to us for the last 30 days.

Day 34: Jufal – Kathmandu (4,400 feet). We will depart in our charter twin otter plane, which takes us to Pokhara. From Pokhara, we'll fly to Kathmandu on a regularly scheduled flight, arriving by mid-day.

Days 35–36: Kathmandu (4,400 feet). As there are possible flight delays returning from Jufal, these two days will serve as a buffer, but we'll most likely be able to fly on schedule and spend these days sightseeing around the Kathmandu Valley -- visiting the many World Heritage sites there, such as Bhaktapur and Patan. On our last evening in Kathmandu, we will have our farewell dinner party.

Day 37: Departure. Our trip officially ends after breakfast.

Getting There

You will make your own flight arrangements to and from Nepal; the trip leader will provide contact information for a recommended travel agent. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Hotels on this trip are basic, not luxurious -- but they are clean and comfortable, and you will have private baths with hot (most of the time) water, heated by solar power. On our trek we will camp in roomy two- or three-person dome-style tents, which will be set up at each camp by the staff. You will be expected to share your tent and your hotel room with one other person.

All meals are provided. In town, breakfast will be at the hotel, while lunch and dinner will be in restaurants. On the trek, our kitchen staff is truly amazing, and they are well trained in American preferences and standards of hygiene. Vegetarians are warmly accommodated. If you have any dietary requirements, be sure to discuss these with the leader well in advance.

Boiled water and tea will always be available for drinking. In addition, you will be provided with a plentiful supply of Micropur tablets for water purification, to be used in conjunction with our 0.2 micron water filter. Hot water is a precious commodity in Nepal; a small quantity for washing will be supplied, but do not expect copious amounts. Kerosene for heating water is heavy, and we need to do what we can to lessen our burden on the scarce resources as well. 

Trip Difficulty

This trip is non-technical and suitable for anyone in excellent physical condition who loves to hike and would enjoy camping out in a very remote setting for an extended period (30 days). Because of the length, remoteness, rugged trails, and high elevations involved, this must be considered a strenuous, serious, and challenging trip. Most of the hiking will be above 13,000 feet. We will cross 12 passes -- six of which lie between 16,500 feet and 17,800 feet, and one pass (the highest point on the trek) at 18,250 feet. Our highest camp will be at about 16,400 feet. You should feel comfortable hiking about 10-12 miles per day at these elevations on very steep rocky trails while carrying a day pack of approximately 15-20 pounds. The maximum altitude gain in one day is about 4,350 feet, and maximum loss in one day is about 5,000 feet. Although the trails are not particularly narrow, there are a couple of short sections with modest exposure on this trip, so those who are sensitive to the presence of drop-offs should discuss that with the leader.

A well-planned physical conditioning program that you are committed to is required for participation on this trek. The best way to get in shape for this trip (in addition to leading an active life year-round) is to go on frequent hikes -- up and down hills, carrying some weight, and wearing the boots you'll take on the trip. In addition to this, a dedicated, daily endurance-building cardiovascular conditioning program is essential.

Please feel free to contact the leader to discuss any questions you may have regarding the difficulty of this trip.

Just as important as being in good shape is having a spirit of adventure. You should take pleasure in experiencing a very different culture in an extremely remote setting and be comfortable traveling with a group. You must be flexible and adapt easily to unpredictable weather and primitive conditions. In addition, medical forms need to be completed by all trip members, in conjunction with an up-to-date physical exam. Leader approval is required. 

Equipment and Clothing

You must have a passport valid for at least six months beyond the date of entry into Nepal. The trip leader will supply a specific and detailed equipment list that is unique to this outing. Any questions about the suitability of equipment should be addressed to the trip leader.

Your personal gear should be packed in a duffel bag, which will be carried by porters or mules. Duffel weight is limited to 32 pounds; extra belongings can be carried in your daypack. Group equipment, tents, all kitchen gear, and food are provided and carried separately -- these not part of your weight allotment. Because of the altitudes encountered on the trek, a Gamow Bag (a portable hyperbaric chamber to aid in the treatment of altitude sickness) will be carried. The leader will have a satellite phone, for emergencies only.

References

Books:

• Mayhew, Bradley and Joe Bindloss, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya. Lonely Planet.
• Snellgrove, David, Himalayan Pilgrimage. Shambhala, Boston.
• Matthiessen, Peter, The Snow Leopard. Viking Penguin, New York.
• Schaller, George, Stones of Silence. University of Chicago Press.
• Valli, Eric, and Diane Summers, Dolpo, Hidden Land of the Himalayas. Aperture, NJ.
• Jest, Corneille, Tales of the Turquoise. Snow Lion, Ithaca, NY.
• Bauer, Kenneth M., High Frontiers. Columbia University Press, NY.
• Jinpa, Nagru Geshe Gelek, Bon in Nepal. Heritage Publishers.
• Snellgrove, David, Four Lamas of Dolpo. Himalayan Bookseller, Kathmandu.
• Kind, Marietta, Mendrub: A Bonpo Ritual for the Benefit of All Living Beings. WWF Nepal.
• Hillard, Darla, Vanishing Tracks. Mandala Book Point, Kathmandu.

Film:

• Valli, Eric, “Himalaya” (aka “Caravan”), distributed by Kino International

Conservation

Ninety-six percent of Nepal's fuel energy comes from wood. Since Nepal first opened her doors to tourism, massive deforestation has occurred, resulting in the loss of half of the national forest reserves. The rapidly expanding population also demands more and more space to grow food, and these two factors have resulted in a serious problem. It is said that Nepal's biggest export is the soil carried down its rivers to India each year.

Sierra Club outings to Nepal are doing their best not to contribute to this problem. In Kathmandu, our hotel uses solar energy to heat water, and on the trek we use small kerosene stoves for cooking. Do not expect an evening campfire. We try to lessen our impact in other ways as well; our practice of not bringing unnecessary gear and not burning kerosene to heat luxurious amounts of washing water cuts down drastically on the number of porters needed, while still keeping individual porter loads to a reasonable weight limit.

We will learn about the issues and challenges that the Dolpopa face in their process of defining and controlling development in their region, while preserving their environment and maintaining their heritage and traditions. A visit to the locally initiated and operated Tapriza school, founded 19 years ago for Bon children with those same goals in mind, will be a highlight of the trip. Learning about the work of wildlife and snow leopard conservation groups will also be another. 

Pockets of ancient cultures and unique natural environments have survived intact in this remote corner of Nepal. The Nepalese have a positive spirit and attitude, and are examining the successes and failures of the modern world. It will become painfully clear how luxurious our own lifestyle really is compared to that of the overwhelming majority of the world's people, bringing into question our inequitable consumption of the world's precious resources.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.