Vistas and Volcanoes: Hike and Bike the Eastern Cascades of Central Oregon

The Trip

Oregon is a volcanic landscape of great natural beauty. It incorporates the Three Sisters Wilderness of the High Cascades Range in the west and the High Lava Plains in the east, punctuated by the Paulina Range and the Newberry National Volcanic Monument. The Cascades are part of the Ring of Fire; the multiple volcanic ranges that surround the Pacific Ocean. These ranges began erupting about 45 million years ago, and significant volcanic activity occurred as recently as 1980 with the eruption of Mount Saint Helens in Washington State. In Central Oregon it happened as recently as 1,300 years ago within the Newberry Caldera, and it will occur again. These wonders are within or adjacent to the Deschutes National Forest. We’ll be immersed in this alpine-to-high desert environment: from miles of waiting-to-be-explored wilderness to the exciting smaller city of Bend on the scenic Deschutes River.

We’ll stay in comfortable, rustic cabins at La Pine State Park along the Deschutes River. Our scenic hikes will highlight the snow-capped peaks, expansive vistas, fresh air, and lots of central Oregon sunshine. We’ll walk interpretive and wilderness trails through lava flows and forests, visit alpine lakes, marvel at the area’s natural and cultural diversity, and review our adventures each evening in camp. Central Oregon is also home to some of the best mountain biking terrain in the U.S. Just seven miles west of Bend, we’ll start with a half day for a classic introduction to off-road biking; and the next day we’ll ride the easy-to-intermediate ‘single-track’ trails with gradual elevation changes — a ‘model trail, good for every rider.' This part of the Deschutes National Forest is open-canopied forest of ponderosa pine, western larch, and lodgepole pine. Snow-capped volcanoes (Mt. Bachelor, Three Sisters, Mt. Jefferson) provide the backdrop.

Our week-long Central Oregon volcanoes experience will be based at La Pine State Park and will feature daily field excursions and off-road biking, along with brief historical-geological diversions. La Pine is the home of Oregon’s largest ponderosa pine—cleverly called “Big Tree” at 162 feet tall, 29 feet in circumference, and probably more than 500 years old. A former ranger from the Deschutes National Forest will accompany us on most of our hikes to provide great background and historical commentary of the area.

Note: The leaders will make every reasonable effort to meet the itinerary outlined below. Please keep in mind that weather or other conditions beyond their control may cause them to modify the itinerary to ensure the safety and enjoyment of the group. Participants should plan to use their own vehicles or ride share and reimburse drivers for mileage.

Day 1: Meet at La Pine State Park and move into our comfortable cabins. Take a refreshing two-mile stroll through gigantic ponderosa and lodgepole pines along the meandering Deschutes River. Dinner, with an orientation to the week’s activities and presentation on “It’s All Volcanic” by a former U.S. Forest Service ranger.

Day 2: Carpool to Lava Lands Visitor Center of the Newberry National Volcanic Monument for an overview of Central Oregon’s volcanic legacy. Hike Trail of the Molten Lands through a massive lava flow just 7,000 years old. Then hike up the classic Lava Butte cinder cone for sweeping views of the volcanic landscape -- from the snow-capped Cascade Range in the west, to the massive Newberry shield volcano and Paulina Range in the southeast. Then take a short drive to the Deschutes River and an easy hike to scenic Benham Falls, formed when the Deschutes River was dammed by flows from Lava Butte. In the afternoon is our introduction to off-road biking.The locale for our outing is Phil’s Trail, just west of Bend among the high desert vegetation of ponderosa pines and manzanita bushes. Phil’s offers miles of smooth, well-maintained trails, great scenery, and varying degrees of difficulty. Professional guides will provide orientation to the bikes and riding “single track” for your best enjoyment.

Day 3: Hike 7,779-foot Tumalo Mountain for spectacular views of the Three Sisters, Broken Top, and Mt. Bachelor. It’s only two miles one-way — not very long, but you’re sure to enjoy the 1,400-foot altitude gain. In the afternoon, we'll enjoy our second half-day of off-road biking on easy-to-moderate Phil’s Trail. Mountain Bike Action magazine named Bend the best Mountain Bike Town in the country. We’ll plan on two groups, once again lead by professional guides, who’ll escort the beginners and intermediates along the meandering single-track trails.

Day 4: Visit the Newberry Caldera, formed by repeated eruptions and collapses between 500,000 and 200,000 years ago. En route, a brief stop at Paulina Falls, located among towering conifers. The nearby trail gives a stunning view, as it drops 80 feet over volcanic cliffs onto a jumble of rocks below. Then we’ll hike to the 7,897-foot Paulina Peak to view Newberry Caldera’s twin lakes and other volcanic features as far north as Mount Hood and as far south as the rim of Crater Lake. Lastly, hike the Big Obsidian Flow. Only 1,300 years old, Oregon’s youngest major volcanic feature offers a one-mile interpretive trail surrounded by obsidian (black glass) and pumice.

Day 5: Visit the world-class High Desert Museum, which interprets the natural and cultural history of the Intermountain West through indoor and outdoor exhibits, and its historic High Desert Ranger Station to learn the story of the National Forest System. Then we’re off to Devil's Lake for an approximately 7-mile, gentle, round-trip trek westward into the Three Sisters Wilderness to the Wickiup Plain and its myriad volcanic features, including massive Rock Mesa obsidian flow and textbook-perfect Le Conte Crater cinder cone on the southern flank of South Sister. We will incorporate, as a group option, a mile-long walk along the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail, which passes through the western part of the plain. Dinner at one of Bend’s many famous brew pubs.

Day 6: After a leisurely morning of breakfast and packing, depart for home.

Getting There

Central Oregon’s commercial airport is located in Redmond, about 15 miles north of Bend and 35 miles north of La Pine State Park via U.S. Highway 97. You may fly direct to Redmond from Seattle, Portland, Salt Lake City, Denver, San Francisco, Phoenix, Las Vegas, or Los Angeles. Rental cars are available there. La Pine State Park is 20 miles south of Bend, Oregon, on the Deschutes River, and four miles west of U.S. Highway 97. Be sure to bring your current National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass (e.g., annual pass, senior pass, access pass, or volunteer pass). Participants should plan to use their own vehicles or ride share and reimburse drivers for mileage. Please do not make travel arrangements until the leader has confirmed you as a trip member. 

Accommodations and Food

We will stay in comfortable, rustic cabins, with nearby hot showers and flush toilets. All meals are provided for this trip, starting with dinner the first night and ending with breakfast the last day. Meals will include whole grains, fruits, and vegetables. Some meals may be vegetarian. A tasty selection of snacks is included. Please discuss food restrictions, allergies, or dislikes with the trip leader before signing up for this trip. We invite everyone to help with the meal prep and clean up, in Sierra Club outings tradition.

Trip Difficulty

We will walk at a moderate pace with time for taking pictures and interpreting the unique natural/cultural history and resource management within the Deschutes National Forest. Most walks are short, ranging from two to six miles, with moderate elevation changes. On occasion we’ll offer longer, more challenging hikes. Trails are well maintained by the U.S. Forest Service, but rocky in places. Boots with ankle protection are sometimes appropriate.

The off-road biking is as much as 15 miles on established trails in open forest. Experience is not required. Our professional guides will provide instruction on the bikes beforehand. There are beginner trails with connections to the more advanced, challenging trails...all blending together into a marvelous trail complex among the high desert vegetation of Ponderosa pines and manzanita bushes. This trip will be most enjoyed if you have at least a moderate level of physical fitness. Training before the event should include day hikes of up to 5 miles on hilly terrain while wearing the hiking boots you plan to use on the trip. And refresher rides on your street, hybrid, or mountain bike.

Equipment and Clothing

Bring your own sleeping bag and pillow for use on cabin bunks. Temperatures at this time of year are usually warm during the day (80s) and cool to cold at night (40s), so you will want to pack options for warm and cold. Clothing for hiking should include well-broken-in hiking boots or shoes, clothing to layer, and rain gear. Casual clothing for the evenings should include a warm jacket, hat, gloves, and comfortable camp shoes. A complete packing list will be sent upon registration for the trip. All group cooking gear, including stoves, pots, and pans, will be provided. Participants need only bring their plate, bowl, and utensils, as well as containers to pack their lunch and snacks.

References

Maps:

• Deschutes National Forest Recreation Map, U.S. Forest Service
• Three Sisters Wilderness Map, Geo-Graphics, Portland, Oregon

Books:

• Joslin, Les, The Wilderness Concept and the Three Sisters Wilderness.
• Sullivan, William L., 100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades.
• Sullivan, William L., Hiking Oregon’s History.

Conservation

The 1.6 million-acre Deschutes National Forest is one of the most visited national forests in the Pacific Northwest Region and the nation. The Forest includes the 60,000-acre Newberry National Volcanic Monument (1 of 6 national monuments administered by the U.S. Forest Service instead of the National Park Service), the eastern third of the 285,000-acre Three Sisters Wilderness (the most-visited and second-largest National Wilderness Preservation System unit in Oregon), and the popular Cascade Lakes National Scenic Byway. We will discuss management of its diverse amenity and commodity resources to meet the wants and needs of its diverse citizen-owners in a sustainable manner. We’ll have daily discussions led by a retired Forest Service ranger about the origin and role of the U.S. Forest Service and its conservation policies.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.