Autumn Rafting on the Colorado River, Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The Trip

"Mountains of music swell in the river, hills of music billow in the creeks . . . while other melodies are heard in the gorges of the lateral canyons. The Grand Canyon is a land of song." — John Wesley Powell

Rafting down the Colorado River through the majestic Grand Canyon is North America's ultimate river trip. The Grand Canyon is one of the world's premier whitewater experiences. Since John Wesley Powell first traversed the Grand Canyon in 1869, the Colorado River has been known as the most exciting and challenging whitewater river in North America. This granddaddy of a river boasts 150 major rapids, including Houserock, Hance, Sockdolager, Hermit, Upset, Lava Falls, and the Class V Crystal Rapid! The thrill of running such rapids remains long after the trip is over.

Besides the whitewater excitement, there are also many quiet stretches of current. The fullness of the river experience is enhanced by its contrasts: gentle, powerful, and then gentle again. We will find sparkling clear springs gushing from cracks in the cliffs, forming lush oases of ferns, pools, and wildflowers, as well as cool quiet side canyons sculptured from the ancient rocks where the song of the Canyon wren echoes in the crystalline dry air. Each of Earth's climatic zones is represented in the Grand Canyon, from alpine forests on the rim to Sonoran deserts in the lower elevations. Some of the oldest rocks to be found anywhere on the planet form the canyon walls; the multicolored layers reflect more than two billion years of geologic time from the top to the bottom of the gorge.

There is something here to excite everyone: geology, climate, vegetation, animal life, and human history. From the put-in at Lee’s Ferry to our takeout on Lake Mead, over 280 miles downstream, the traveler is never in want of awe. President Theodore Roosevelt once said of the Canyon: "Leave it as it is. Man cannot improve upon it." This is what we intend to do, while enjoying the magnificent experience of our journey. If you choose to go on this outing, it will be one of the most memorable and cherished experiences of your life.

This trip is outfitted by O.A.R.S., a licensed concessionaire of Grand Canyon National Park.

"We are now ready to start on our way down the Great Unknown. We have an unknown distance yet to run; an unknown river yet to explore. What falls there are, we know not; what rocks beset the channel, we know not. Ah well! We may conjecture many things." — John Wesley Powell

We will have a group dinner followed by an orientation meeting in Flagstaff, Arizona the first night of the trip. The trip leader will provide specific information regarding the dinner and orientation meeting at a later date and after you are accepted onto the trip. At this meeting you will receive your drybags. We’ll cover the details of how to pack the bags, which items to pack where, and answer any last-minute questions. 

We plan to have a mix of oar-powered rafts and dories on our trip. These boats will carry us and all of our gear and food for 15 days through the canyons. Fortunately for us, the Grand Canyon within the National Park is motor free after September 15th, so we will not have to listen to many motors upriver of Lake Mead.

Our 18-foot, oar-powered rafts accommodate four passengers plus one guide rowing from the center of the raft. We will also have the option of 17-foot fiberglass dories, which slice through the waves and provide an unforgettable ride though the canyons. These elegant boats provide a connection to Powell and the history of western exploration, as well as a whole lot of fun. Our boats have the advantage of floating silently in the river, allowing us to savor, peacefully, the uniqueness of this place and to observe the wildlife undisturbed. Our rafts and dories have a safety record bested by none. In addition, these craft provide a more intimate sense of adventure, excitement, and oneness with the river.

The morning after our meeting, we’ll board a bus to Lees Ferry, our put-in for our Grand Canyon adventure. Navajo Bridge will give us our last view of “civilization” as we embark on our journey. Our itinerary will vary day to day, depending on river flow, weather, the amount of hiking we do, and the inclination of the group. We will camp each night of the trip next to the river, mostly on sandy beaches. 

• The river carves through Marble Canyon, unveiling layer upon layer of textures and hues with half a billion years’ of Paleozoic rock walls standing before us. 
• We encounter our first taste of whitewater as we meet up with Badger and Soap Creek rapids.
• Our boats float past the fern-covered oases of Vasey’s Paradise.
• As the river bends, we see the inviting limestone chamber of Redwall Cavern.
• We forge on downstream for a hike up to the Puebloan granaries of Nankoweap with epic vistas below.
• Back on the river, the rapids of Unkar, Hance, and Sockdolager engulf us with excitement.
• The canyon walls squeeze closer together, forming the crimson and black walls of Upper Granite Gorge.
• We navigate some of the biggest whitewater in the Canyon, including Crystal, Sapphire, Turquoise and Ruby rapids.
• At Elves Chasm, we encounter fern grottoes with shimmering crystal pools while Blacktail Canyon engulfs us with ribbon-fluted walls looming overhead.
• Once again the canyon closes in as we enter Granite Narrows, the narrowest part of the canyon.
• A short distance ahead we hear the 125-foot downpour of Deer Creek Falls.
• We continue gliding through geologic time as we row our boats ashore to the limestone slot canyon known as Matkatamiba, where a wide natural amphitheater awaits our arrival.
• Upset Rapid gives us one last challenge before we camp for the night.
• We visit Havasu Canyon for time to hike or just relax along the blue-green cascading pools.
• We run the notorious Lava Falls as we descend into Lower Granite Gorge.
• Once we leave the river at our take-out on Lake Mead, we drive back to our hotel in Flagstaff for hot showers and a farewell dinner.

"Now the danger is over, now the toil has ceased, now the gloom has disappeared, now the firmament is bounded only by the horizon, and what a vast expanse of constellations can be seen! The river rolls by us in silent majesty; the quiet of the camp is sweet; our joy is ecstasy. We sit till long after midnight talking of the Grand Canyon, talking of home." — John Wesley Powell

Trip details vary slightly per trip, so please refer to the information you receive from the trip leaders.

Getting There

By air: American Airlines serves Flagstaff’s Pulliam Airport. The major connection city for the airline is Phoenix. 

By car: Flagstaff is situated at the junction of Interstate 40 and Interstate 17. It is approximately a three-hour drive from Phoenix to Flagstaff and a five-hour drive from Las Vegas to Flagstaff. From any direction, the drive to Flagstaff is spectacular!

By train: Amtrak provides daily service to Flagstaff. Please call 800-872-7245 for availability, pricing, and schedules.

Flagstaff is a good base from which to venture out into the Colorado Plateau country. Ten miles east of Flagstaff is Walnut Canyon National Monument and 15 miles north is Sunset Crater National Monument and Wupatki National Monument. Continuing north is Gray Mountain, the entrance to the 25,000-square-mile Navajo Reservation. South of Flagstaff is the beautiful Oak Creek Canyon, Slide Rock State Park, and the scenic resort town of Sedona. For a more alpine setting, there are the San Francisco Peaks and the Kachina Peaks Wilderness Area.

Within a two-hour driving radius of Flagstaff you will find: the Grand Canyon (South Rim), the Hopi Mesas (Hopi Indian Reservation), Navajo National Monument, Glen Canyon Dam and National Recreation Area (Lake Powell), the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest National Park, Montezuma Castle National Monument, and Tuzigoot National Monument.

Before leaving Flagstaff, be sure to spend a couple of hours at the Museum of Northern Arizona, just 10 minutes from the center of town. It is the best museum featuring the region's natural and cultural history to be found in the Southwest. The interpretation and displays are outstanding, and the setting sublime. Don't miss it!

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Lodging (double occupancy) in Flagstaff the nights before and after the river trip is included in the trip price. There is a single supplement. The trip leader will provide details once you have been approved for the trip roster. Dinners at local restaurants the night before the trip and upon our return to Flagstaff are also included in the trip price. During the river trip, we will set up camp each night next to the river. Double-occupancy, two-person tents are included in the trip price.

Delicious and healthy meals are provided by our outfitter from lunch of the first day to lunch on the last day. If you have a special dietary need, please inform your trip leader immediately upon signing up for the trip. It may not be possible to meet all special dietary requests, but the sooner the request is received, the better the chance. 

Gratuities: While this trip includes lodging and meals from dinner on the first night of the trip to breakfast on the last day, gratuities for our river guides are NOT included in the trip price. Our guides will be working very long days, doing everything they can to make this trip memorable for us. Typical gratuities for Grand Canyon trips range from 5-10% of the trip cost.

Beverages: You are allowed to purchase beer, soda, or other beverages to bring on the trip. You can bring these items with you or purchase them in Flagstaff. They do not need to be packed in your drybags. 

Alcohol: The river provides plenty of highs and excitement. No drinking is allowed during the day and while on the river. This is for your safety and the safety and enjoyment of others. However, you may bring your favorite beverages in plastic bottles or cans for camp.

Trip Difficulty

"With some eagerness, some anxiety, and some misgiving, we enter the canyon below. We are three-quarters of a mile in the depths of the earth, and the great river shrinks into insignificance, as it dashes its angry waves against the walls and cliffs, that rise to the world above." — John Wesley Powell

Major Powell notwithstanding, this is a trip of intermediate difficulty. On the international scale of I (easy) to VI (unrunnable), the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon is a Class IV+ river. Most of the rapids we will encounter are Class III to IV; the infamous ones (Crystal and Lava Falls) are Class IV-V, among the largest in the world. Our 15-day (14-night) river itinerary makes this the longest rafting expedition run by the Sierra Club. It also makes for a fairly rigorous schedule as we will be moving our camp every day.

Although we make every effort to ensure a safe trip and have an excellent safety record, whitewater boating, hiking, and wilderness travel involve some risks. Physical challenges and risks are inherent in rafting and are the reason why people seek this kind of adventure. If you elect to join the expedition, you must be in good health and willing to participate in trip chores and activities. You must also be capable of holding onto the rafts or dories through the heavy and turbulent rapids. Trip members are expected to assist in loading and unloading duffel and community equipment on and off the rafts, and in carrying it to and from the campsites. Each person must be able to take care of his or her personal needs and attend to his or her own campsite. 

Side-canyon exploration ranges from easy walks to more difficult hikes requiring some scrambling ability. Much of the hiking requires walking on rocks of all sizes, wading through streams, and climbing on exposed slickrock sandstone. Although all hikes are optional, good physical condition is important. We strongly recommend that you engage in a program of regular exercise prior to the trip. 

This trip should be considered an "active" vacation as you will be packing/unpacking your gear, setting up your tent, participating in side hikes, and possibly paddling. These activities, taken together over a 15-day period, in a wilderness environment, are physically demanding if you are not in shape. The trip leader is responsible for screening participants for their suitability for the trip.

The average high temperatures in September are in the 80s and 90s; the average lows are in the 60s. These are perfect temperatures for canyon exploration. Thunderstorms are possible, although September is usually a dry month on the Colorado Plateau. When it rains, the canyon can turn very cool. You will want to pack adequate warm clothing and sturdy raingear. Our day-to-day itinerary on the river is flexible and will depend on river levels, weather conditions, and the inclination of the members. However, the total trip length will remain the same.

Equipment and Clothing

Two-person tents (double occupancy) are included in the trip price. Sleeping bags and pads are available to rent. Little else is needed beyond your personal clothing, rain gear, and toiletries. A complete packing list for the trip will be sent to you upon acceptance onto the trip.

Special tips: What do I keep in my day bag? Since your large waterproof bags will be inaccessible to you during the day, you will want to keep some items handy with you on the boat. Items we suggest storing in your day bag include: a fleece, raingear, sunscreen, moisturizer, cup, extra sunglasses, river guidebook, camera, and film. 

Valuables: Leave valuables at home! For those essential valuables (wallet, credit cards, traveler's checks), please double-bag them in Ziploc bags and store them in the bottom of your waterproof bag containing your clothing. 

References

To fully enjoy the trip, you may want to read several books on the natural and human history of the Grand Canyon. The National Park Service’s Grand Canyon website is very informative, as is the website for the Grand Canyon Trust.

• Martin, Russell, A Story That Stands Like a Dam: Glen Canyon and the Struggle for the Soul of the West. 
• Powell, John Wesley, Exploration of the Colorado River and its Canyon.
• Reisner, Mark, Cadillac Desert: The American West and Its Disappearing Water. 
• Stegner, Wallace, Beyond the Hundredth Meridian: John Wesley Powell and the Second Opening of the West. 
• Stevens, Larry, The Colorado River in the Grand Canyon.
• Worster, Donald, Rivers of Empire: Water, Aridity and The Growth of The American West. 

A small library is carried with us on the rafts, mainly composed of natural history guidebooks. The leader will send out a more extensive Grand Canyon bibliography with other trip information.

Conservation

Conservation issues in and around the Grand Canyon unfortunately abound. They include everything from endangered species to mining threats to air and noise pollution. We will have time for conversations concerning these and other conservation issues:

Management of Glen Canyon Dam: The dam-created tidal action of the river has disrupted the riparian corridor and habitat, endangered native species of fish, washed away beaches, and made river-running even more precarious. Efforts to mitigate the effects of the dam have had mixed results.

Aircraft overflights of the canyon: The number of sight-seeing aircraft flying over the canyon has increased substantially in the past decades. To those of us in the canyon, it's an air raid. The monotonous drone of airplanes and the incessant whump-whump-whump of helicopters belies the wilderness status of the canyon below. 

The "Great Floods" of '83 and '96: After the near-disaster of 1983, when the dam almost over-flowed and burst, sending a 108,000 cfs (cubic feet per second) torrent down the canyon, the river was turned-off to a mere 10,000 cfs on average. In an effort to stir up bottom silt for re-deposition on the eroding beaches and to reestablish native fisheries, the Dam released 45,000 cfs—a veritable flood—for two weeks in 1996. How successful are attempts to re-create spring flows? 

Management of the river corridor: Should "motor-rigs" be allowed in a de facto wilderness area? Is the number of visitors ("user-days") in the river corridor too high? Why hasn't the Colorado River corridor been added to our National Wilderness Preservation System? 

Dams in the Grand Canyon? The defining issue for the Sierra Club during the 1960s was the battle to save Grand Canyon. Two dams were proposed: one in Marble Canyon (we will stop at the site) and one in Bridge Canyon. David Brower, Martin Litton, and other members of the Club's Board went to "the wall" over this battle, nearly bankrupting the Club and causing a split in our ranks that took many years to heal. What a story! The experience that we will enjoy owes much to the tenacity of the Sierra Club. 

We would do well to remember the words of the late Wallace Stegner, conservationist, historian, and dean of Western writers: 

"… deserts and plateaus and canyons are not a country of big returns, but a country of spiritual healing, incomparable for contemplation, meditation, solitude, quiet, awe, peace of mind and body. We were born of wilderness and we respond to it more than we sometimes realize. We depend upon it increasingly for relief from the termite life we have created. Factories, power plants, resorts, we can make anywhere. Wilderness, once we have given it up, is beyond our reconstruction."

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.