Backpack Sampler in Olympic National Park, Washington

The Trip

A World Heritage site, Olympic National Park is a magnificent realm of alpine peaks, crystalline lakes, dark and mysterious rainforests, and a spectacular, wild Pacific coastline. This moderate 30-mile backpack samples all of these habitats with time to enjoy photography, botany, fishing, swimming, or just drinking in the beauty. Known as one of America's most ecologically diverse national parks, Olympic is a place where we can spy seals and whales off isolated offshore islands and sea stacks; surround ourselves with the overhanging fog, moss, and ferns of the temperate Hoh Rainforest; climb up to the alpine world of Seven Lakes Basin; and view Mount Olympus rising above a sea of peaks from the High Divide. Olympic also harbors easily seen wildlife such as sea lions, orcas, and bald eagles at the coast; deer and Roosevelt elk in the rainforest; and a growing population of black bears and mountain goats in the high country. With 95 percent of Olympic National Park protected as wilderness, there's not a single road that crosses the park. So from our first step from the parking lot we enter a wild wilderness world.

Combined in this single outing is a six-day horseshoe-loop backpack through the eerie Hoh Rainforest and up to the Seven Lakes Basin, a layover day to explore the lakes, and a lofty traverse along the High Divide with commanding views of Mt. Olympus. A relaxed pace and shorter-mileage days mean we can truly immerse ourselves in all the habitats Olympic has to offer. While enjoying what has already been protected, we'll learn about threats to the park and efforts to preserve a buffer zone around the park to secure its integrity. So release the inner explorer in you and come out to play in this natural wonderland.

Day 1: After an afternoon arrival at Sol Duc Campground to set up camp, we'll have a trip orientation, weigh packs and refine packing, arrange tent-sharing partners, and get to know each other over a potluck dinner salad.

Day 2: After breakfast, which is provided, we'll distribute commissary and shuttle to our beginning trailhead at the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center. After checking out the visitor center, we'll begin the backpack along the Hoh River through the lush and verdant rainforest for five miles to camp at Five Mile Island. We'll encounter gentle ups and downs and have a net gain of 150 feet.

Day 3: It'll be another day to take our time in the other-worldly rainforest with plenty of stops to capture the mood in photography. We'll hike 4.7 miles to camp at Olympus Ranger Station and have a net gain of 200 feet. In the afternoon we'll relax or enjoy a walk farther up the Hoh River.

Day 4: This is our most difficult day as we ascend most of the elevation to Seven Lakes Basin. A climb of 3,500 feet in just five miles will bring us to our camp in the beautiful meadow of CB Flats. We're likely to see deer and maybe even a bear there. Those with energy can do the short climb up to Hoh Lake without packs. This will be our camp for two nights.

Day 5: Today is a well-deserved layover day to rest and recuperate in camp or have lunch at Lunch Lake on the planned day hike to Seven Lakes Basin. We'll come across outstanding views of Mt. Olympus along the way. The hike is six miles round-trip without packs, with a gain and loss of 500 feet. 

Day 6: We'll climb 500 feet and circle the rim of Seven Lakes Basin with a side trip up Bogachiel Peak, 5,474 feet. We'll have more up and down hiking along the High Divide with close-up views of Mt. Olympus and its glaciers streaming down its flanks. Afterward, we'll descend 800 feet to camp at Sol Duc Park for a five-mile day.

Day 7: We'll descend 2,300 feet down the Sol Duc River through magical forest past many waterfalls. Then we'll enjoy lunch by enchanting Sol Duc Falls and return to our cars in seven miles.

Getting There

Please meet by 4:00 p.m. on day one at Sol Duc Campground in Olympic National Park.  The closest airports to fly into are Sea-Tac International Airport in Seattle/Tacoma, WA, and Victoria International Airport in British Columbia.  Please note that you will need a passport to fly into British Columbia. There is no public transportation to Olympic National Park, but you can drive or take a ferry to Port Angeles, the closest full-service city to the park. You may want to arrive a day early in case of flight delays or lost luggage. The shortest route from Sea-Tac to our campground is 170 miles and a 3.5-hour drive. There is direct ferry service from Victoria to Port Angeles.  Rental car sharing and carpooling are strongly recommended.  A future departure bulletin will include detailed driving directions and a roster of participants for arranging rides. Due to the unpredictability of wilderness travel and traffic, please make return flight reservations no earlier than late afternoon on the last day and do not purchase non-refundable tickets until confirmed by the leader.

Accommodations and Food

The campground on the first day is included with the trip. The sites have tables, restrooms, and piped water, but no showers. We will have reserved, designated group campsites while we're backpacking. These come with bear cables and pit toilets and are located in scenic sites.

Our first meal together will be a potluck dinner salad on day one, but all meals after that are included from breakfast on day two through breakfast on day seven. A nutritious, high-energy, non-red meat diet is planned. Any food allergies or limitations should be indicated to the leader as far in advance as possible. Although red meat will not be served, there will be chicken and fish on the menu. Vegetarians can be accommodated, but anyone not eating dairy products or gluten should consider another trip. Trip members will be divided into cook crews to prepare and clean-up meals a of couple times during the outing. Stoves, fuel, and other group commissary equipment will be provided.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is rated 3 on a scale from 1 to 5 where one is the easiest trip offered and 5 is the most difficult.  Most of the hiking is light to moderate, but one strenuous day climbing 3,500 feet in five miles pushes this into the moderate range.  Strong novices with a couple of challenging trips under their belts would be welcome.  Our 6-day backpack is 27 miles long, with hiking distances ranging from 4.5 to 7 miles per day, plus a 6-mile optional layover day hike. Most daily elevation gains will be up to 500 feet, and the elevation will range from 600 feet at the beginning at the Hoh River trailhead, up to 5,000 feet in Seven Lakes Basin, down to 1,900 feet where we finish at the Sol Duc River Trailhead.  One day is strenuous with a climb of 3,500 feet in five miles in what could be wet, rainy weather. Good physical condition is necessary to carry a backpack weighing up to 40 pounds for six days. Preparation should be done with the strenuous day in mind. You need to arrive already in good physical condition. Suggestions for an adequate conditioning routine will be sent in a future bulletin.

There's a reason the Hoh Valley is called a rain forest and even though early September typically has fine weather, rain can be expected here anytime.  As we climb up to the mountainous area of the High Divide and Seven Lakes Basin, any kind of weather can be expected, from cold, wind, rain, and even snow.  Trails are criss-crossed with tree roots, which can become muddy and slick and the grade of the trails is often steep. Good-quality rain gear and hiking poles can mitigate these issues.

Equipment and Clothing

A detailed equipment list will be sent to all approved participants, but basically you will need to provide your own personal backpack gear.  This includes a backpack large enough to hold your personal gear plus up to 12 pounds of group commissary gear -- about as much as would fill a paper grocery bag. Every participant should expect to carry a bear canister (provided) plus a few other items.  Other essentials are a sleeping bag that will keep you warm if the temperature drops to freezing (rated to at least 20 degrees); an ensolite or Thermarest sleeping pad; a good quality, waterproof, lightweight tent (should be shared); a good-quality rain jacket and pants (no ponchos) including backpack cover (garbage bags are inadequate); enough layers of clothing to keep you comfortable between 30-75 degrees; and medium-weight, waterproofed, well-broken-in, and preferably all-leather hiking boots with lug soles.  Hiking poles are also strongly recommended for rough, steep trails and stream crossings.  You will enjoy the trip more if you keep your personal gear to under 25 pounds; after all, a pound at the trailhead feels like 10 a mile down the trail! Group cooking and camping gear will be provided.

References

• Olympic National Park – National Geographic/Trails Illustrated
• USGS 7.5-minute topographical maps: Owl Mountain, Mount Tom, Bogachiel Peak, and Mount Carrie, available at https://store.usgs.gov/. 

• Molvar, Erik, Hiking Olympic National Park: A Guide to the Park's Greatest Hiking Adventures.
• Lien, Carsten, Olympic Battleground: Creating and Defending Olympic National Park.
• McNulty, Tim, Olympic National Park: A Natural History.
• Kirk, Ruth and Jerry Franklin, The Olympic Rain Forest: An Ecological Web.

Websites:

• Olympic National Park: www.nps.gov/olym
• National Parks Conservation Association: www.npca.org/parks/olympic-national-park

Conservation

Although it's one of America's best protected national parks, Olympic is still faced with environmental issues. East of the park lies the growing metropolitan area of Seattle, which is undergoing suburban growth that is encroaching on the Olympic peninsula. Just beyond the national park boundary, major forest clear-cutting takes place in adjacent Olympic National Forest and on private timber company lands. This clear-cutting places pressure on watersheds and wildlife and bird migrations.  In order to protect the national park for future generations, it's important to turn to more sustainable forestry practices and create a buffer zone around the national park. We will talk about these issues on the trip as well as discuss ways to reduce vehicle pollution in the park with a clean-fuel shuttle system. We will also learn and practice Leave No Trace principles so those coming after us can experience the wilderness as we will.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.