Descent into Dark Canyon, Utah

The Trip

Dark Canyon is in the heart of the recently restored Bears Ears National Monument. It is estimated that Bears Ears has over 100,000 archaeological sites reflecting the rich Native American history in this area. The Navajo Nation, Ute Mountain Ute Tribe, Hopi Tribe, Ute Indian Tribe, and Pueblo of Zuni consider this area sacred and will play an active part in the management of the Monument.

Both Dark and Woodenshoe Canyons are dramatic and colorful. Starting in the aspen and Douglas fir forest of Woodenshoe Canyon on Elk Ridge, we will watch as the life zones change to a Ponderosa forest, pinyon-juniper forest, and finally, a desert landscape in lower Dark Canyon as we approach Cataract Canyon. Also, there will be galleries of cottonwoods and rich riparian vegetation as our week progresses downstream. During our gradual descent, we will have time to explore side canyons and swim in deep plunge pools, some with small waterfalls. The weather will be cool or possibly cold early in the week and become warm and maybe hot by the end of our journey.

The natural beauty, quiet, and remoteness of Dark Canyon are in stark contrast to the man-made Glen Canyon Dam, Lake Powell, and the roar of jet skis and motorcraft just a short distance away. By the time Lake Powell reached capacity in 1980, it had flooded many of the most spectacular canyons in southern Utah. Only a few of the region’s most dramatic canyons were left. Dark Canyon is one of them.

Dark Canyon is carved out of the 300-million-year-old Honaker Trail Formation, one of the oldest rock layers exposed in southern Utah. Consisting of mixed limestone, shale, and sandstones, the Honaker Trail Formation produces spectacular cliffs and colorful geologic formations. The riparian ecology is rich with lichen, cacti, and several sensitive plant species. The natural beauty, quiet, and remoteness of Dark Canyon epitomize classic canyon country.

Day 1: The hike begins on Elks Ridge, an 8,000-foot-high forest of aspen and Douglas fir. We slowly descend about 2,000 feet into Woodenshoe Canyon over about 8 miles. We will stop at an ancestral Puebloan dwelling for a view. Water will be intermittent the first few days, but will become more abundant as we proceed downcanyon. Tonight might be a dry camp.

Day 2: Today we will explore some of the unnamed side canyons looking for archaeological sites that are common in the area. We plan to camp near the Woodenshoe-Dark Canyon confluence not far from a spring. Sagebrush, juniper, and pinyon pine will become the dominant species as we descend another 2,000 feet over 8 miles.

Day 3: An early start will take us past Black Steer Canyon and eventually to free-flowing water, which we will follow for the rest of the hike. After a total of about 9 miles and a 1,000-foot descent, we will camp at a sandy bench under cottonwood trees near Young’s Canyon. After arriving at camp, we have the option to hike a short distance up Young’s Canyon, which has a picturesque pool where you could take a dip.

Day 4: Our journey continues down Dark Canyon with ever-changing scenery, including towering canyon walls above a gorgeous cottonwood-lined creek. Today’s 8-mile hike will include walking along the ledges that rise many feet above the creek. Our descent today is a modest 600 feet.

Day 5: Our morning hike will take us to the junction with Lost Canyon. There we will drop our packs and spend a few hours exploring this intriguing side canyon, with several surprising pools of water in its upper reaches where you can enjoy a swim. The weather will be warmer as we enter a desert life zone with cactus, yucca, and agave. Later in the afternoon, we will continue downcanyon to our final campsite near the Sundance trail. Today’s hike with packs is four miles with about 300 feet of descent. Add another 4 miles for the side hike up Lost Canyon.

Day 6: Today we will enjoy a 10-mile round-trip hike without packing down the spectacular lower Dark Canyon. The walls of the Lower Dark Tower are 1,500 feet above us. Depending on the water level of Lake Powell, we might be able to hike to Cataract Canyon and the Colorado River. On the return journey, we can swim in some of the best swimming holes anywhere.

Day 7: On our last day we will hike at first light to avoid the heat on the climb up the steep Sundance Trail, which ascends about 1,500 feet. After about five miles, we will reach the trailhead.

Getting There

We will be meeting at Recapture Lodge in Bluff, UT on Saturday (the day before the hike) at 4:30 p.m. to have a trip briefing and distribute group food and equipment. Consider making a reservation there after being accepted on the trip. However, do not make other travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader. 

Accommodations and Food

Our first trip meal will be dinner on day one of the hike and the last meal will be lunch on the final day. We try to bring enough food, so everyone is satisfied, but also want to keep our packs as light as possible. We will prepare simple, lightweight, easy-to-prepare, good-tasting meals from dried and freeze-dried ingredients. The leaders will take care of the food preparation and clean-up.

Trip Difficulty

There is no official, maintained trail in the canyon. Our hiking will include some good trails, but there are no maintained trails in the bed of Dark Canyon. At times we will be hiking on talus slopes, rock ledges, boulder-strewn streambeds, and some mud and sand. There are a few spots that may require using some handholds or footholds. The last day will include a steep ascent of 1,500 feet out of the canyon. This trip is rated 4 (moderately strenuous) but is more at the easier end of the 4 rating because of the several optional day hikes.

Equipment and Clothing

All pots, stoves, and food will be supplied. We will distribute about 12-14 pounds of group food and gear (commissary gear) for each participant to carry at the beginning of the trip. A complete equipment list will be sent to participants accepted on the trip.

References

Maps:

• USGS 7.5-minute maps: Indian Head Pass, Black Steer Canyon, Bowdie Canyon West
• Trails Illustrated: “Trails: Manti-La Sal National Forest.” A contour map that shows the entire Dark Canyon area; a good general hiking map, but lacks fine detail.

Books:

• Plog, Stephen, Ancient Peoples of the American Southwest (2nd ed.). Thames & Hudson, 2008. This is an excellent introduction to what is known about the people who lived in the Southwest before the arrival of Europeans.
• Crampton, C., Gregory, Standing Up Country (2nd ed.). Rio Nuevo, 2000. A richly illustrated history of how the United States discovered and then sought to protect the Southwest’s canyon country.
• Preston, Douglas and Lincoln Childs, Thunderhead. Grand Central Publishing, 1999. A wonderful fictional archaeological thriller that will keep you on the edge of your seat and set the tone for what we might discover in Dark Canyon.
• Williams, David B., A Naturalist’s Guide to Canyon Country. Morris Books in Cooperation with the Canyonlands Natural History Association, 2000. A handy manageable field guide to the plants and animals of canyon country.
• Spinkel, Douglas A. et al, Geology of Utah’s Parks and Monuments (2nd ed.). Utah Geological Association and Bryce Canyon Natural History Association, 2003. For the geology enthusiast, this book is full of maps, diagrams, and photos that will help you understand the geology of Dark Canyon and the surrounding areas.

Conservation

Dark Canyon is in the heart of Bears Ears National Monument, which was reduced in size under a former administration and is being restored to its original grandeur under the current administration. The Bears Ears and the surrounding area are sacred and important to many Native Americans and contain some of the most stunning landscapes anywhere in the world. During the trip, we will discuss the history of public lands in the U.S. and efforts to preserve archaeological and historic places by educating participants about recent laws such as the Native American Graves Protection and Repatriation Act (NAGPRA). We will also visit Cataract Canyon on this trip where the Colorado River flows into Lake Powell, providing an excellent opportunity to discuss the controversial history of the Glen Canyon Dam and water use in the Western United States. Finally, we will discuss climate change, which is warming the Southwest faster than other areas of the country and is contributing to the extreme drought that much of the Southwest has been experiencing for the past 20 years.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal opportunity provider and operates under a permit area located on the Manti-La Sal National Forest