Descent into Dark Canyon, Utah

The Trip

Dark Canyon, in the heart of canyon country and the former Bears Ears National Monument, is narrow, deep, and colorful. Starting in the aspen and Douglas fir forest, we’ll see the dramatic change in vegetation and terrain as we make our descent down into Woodenshoe Canyon, which eventually leads to Dark. During our week immersed in Dark, we will have time to explore side canyons and swim in deep plunge pools, some with small waterfalls. The weather could be in the low 90s during the day (60s at night), so the shade from the canyon walls and the crisp pools will be a welcome sight.

The natural beauty, quiet, and remoteness of Dark Canyon is in stark contrast to the man-made Glen Canyon Dam, Lake Powell, and the roar of jet-skis and motorcraft just a short distance away. By the time Lake Powell reached capacity in 1980, it had flooded many of the most spectacular canyons in southern Utah. Only a few of the region’s most dramatic canyons were left. Dark Canyon is one of them.

Dark Canyon is carved out of the 300 million-year-old Honaker Trail Formation, one of the oldest rock layers exposed in southern Utah. Consisting of mixed limestone, shale, and sandstones, the Honaker Trail Formation produces spectacular cliffs and colorful geologic formations. The riparian ecology is rich with lichen, cacti, and several sensitive plant species. The natural beauty, quiet, and remoteness of Dark Canyon epitomize classic canyon country.

Day 1: The hike begins on Elks Ridge, an 8,000-foot-high forest of aspen and Douglas fir. We slowly descend into Woodenshoe Canyon for about 10 miles. We will stop at an ancestral Puebloan dwelling for a view. Water will be scarce the first couple of days, but gradually it will become more abundant as we proceed down canyon. Tonight will be a dry camp.

Day 2: As we continue our descent into the sagebrush, juniper, and pinyon pine life zones, we'll have an opportunity to admire the canyon on today's 10-mile hike. Tonight will be a dry camp.

Day 3: An early start will take us a mile to Black Steer Canyon, where we will drop our packs and explore the canyon for several hours. Continuing down canyon a few miles, we will eventually find the creek, which we'll follow for the rest of the hike. After a total of seven miles of hiking with packs, we will camp at a sandy bench under cottonwood trees near Young’s Canyon. After arriving at camp, we have the option to hike a short distance up Young’s Canyon, where there is a wonderful pool for swimming.

Day 4: Our journey continues down Dark Canyon with ever-changing scenery, including towering canyon walls. Today’s eight-mile hike will include walking along the ledges that rise many feet above the creek.

Day 5: We’ll hike as far as Lost Canyon. There we'll drop our packs and spend the rest of the morning exploring this interesting side-canyon, which has several nice pools of water. Because we have descended several thousand feet since our start, the weather will probably be warming up so wading opportunities will be welcome. After lunch we will continue down the canyon to our final campsite near the Sundance trail. Today’s hike with packs is four miles.

Day 6: Today is an optional 10-mile round-trip hike without packs down Dark Canyon. Depending on the water level of Lake Powell, we can potentially get all the way to Cataract Canyon and the Colorado River. On the return journey we can swim in some of the best swimming holes around.

Day 7: On our last day we will rise before dawn and break camp early. This is to avoid the heat on the climb up the steep Sundance Trail that ascends about 1,500 feet. After five miles, we will reach the trailhead, meet our shuttle vans, and return to Bluff by mid-afternoon.

Getting There

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader. While we expect to be out of the canyon by Saturday afternoon, this is not a certainty. Therefore, return flights home should not be scheduled for Saturday.

Accommodations and Food

Our first trip meal will be lunch on day one and the last meal will be breakfast on the final day. We try to bring enough food so everyone is satisfied, but also want to keep our packs as light as possible. We will prepare simple, lightweight, easy-to-prepare, good-tasting meals from dried and freeze-dried ingredients, using recipes tested on previous Sierra Club trips. For drinks, caffeinated coffee and various teas will be provided. Vegetarian options are possible. Participants with special nutritional requirements should contact the leader. Trip participants share in meal preparation and clean up.

Trip Difficulty

This is not a beginner’s trip. There is no official, maintained trail in the canyon. Our hiking will include narrow forest footpaths, talus slopes, slick-rock ledges, boulder-strewn streambeds, mud, and sand, and a few spots that may require handholds and footholds. The last day will include a steep ascent out of the canyon. You should feel comfortable hiking 10 miles a day with a 40-pound pack. This trip is rated 4 (moderately strenuous).

Equipment and Clothing

All pots, stoves, and food will be supplied. We will distribute about 12-14 pounds of group food and gear (commissary gear) for each participant to carry at the beginning of the trip. Bring enough water containers to carry six liters of water; two liters filled when we meet on the first day.

Because of the trip difficulty, the trip will be safer and easier if participants keep their pack weight to the minimum; your total personal gear weight must be light. We won't let anyone bring a heavy pack. You need to get your pack and personal gear weight to a maximum of 20 pounds (this weight does not include your water or group commissary gear). At the beginning of the trip your total pack weight -- including personal gear, commissary gear, and two liters of water -- should weigh approximately 40 pounds. We will weigh your pack at the trailhead. If your pack is overweight, you will need to remove unnecessary items.

We will send a complete equipment list to registered participants. If you have questions about how to reduce weight, or are planning on purchasing new equipment for this trip, please don't hesitate to contact the leader. 

References

• USGS 7.5-minute maps: Indian Head Pass, Black Steer Canyon, Bowdie Canyon West
• Trails Illustrated: “Trails: Manti-La Sal National Forest” A contour map showing the entire Dark Canyon area; a good general hiking map, but lacks fine detail.
• Williams, Felicie, Roadside Geology of Utah.
• Childs, Craig, House of Rain.

Conservation

Dark Canyon is part of the Greater Canyonlands area. The canyon is part of the former Bears Ears National Monument, which in December 2017 was reduced in size by 85% into two smaller units.

Additionally, the Southwest has endured over 10 years of drought. Water levels in Lakes Powell and Mead are at historic lows yet there are more demands than ever on this limited resource. These and other conservation topics will be considered on our trip.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.