Natural Cuba: Birds and Wildlife

The Trip

Cuba has been a mystery and an enigma to U.S. citizens since the Cuban Revolution in 1959. As the largest island in the Caribbean, it boasts the world's smallest bird, the bee hummingbird, plus 26 birds seen nowhere else in the world, and hosts dozens of North American migrants. Cultural highlights include Old Havana, the attractive, cobble-stoned city of Trinidad, and rural Vinales known for its limestone formations (called mogotes) and tobacco farms.

Cuba has approximately 372 species of birds, including 26 endemics. Seventy percent of its birds are migratory, mostly from North America. We will travel to the bird-rich areas in the western regions, spend a few nights in the Zapata Peninsula near the Bay of Pigs, then head up to the northern cayes famous for flamingo roosts and white sand beaches.

While U.S./Cuba government relations have taken a step backward recently, intense interest is driving the government to build out tourist infrastructure, including lodging and restaurants. The government is attempting to support development while carefully minding its stewardship of the environment -- a key tourist attraction as well as the basis for a sustainable economy. Meanwhile, competition for lodging is enormous. Our lodgings will be a mixture of casa particulares (or home stays) and modern and historic hotels. We strive to provide the best lodging available, but some may be modest by American standards. All restaurants were formerly state run, but in the last several years private cooperatives have been permitted to own and operate restaurants in their homes, called paladares. Our journey offers a diverse culinary experience, cultural interaction, and nature immersion as we explore Cuba’s natural wonders during our stay.

Havana will not fail to charm us with the colorful flavors of people, music, history, and tales to cherish, not to mention the old classic cars dating back to the 1950s. We will take time to meet with conservationists throughout our trip, including Orlando Garrido, author of the Birds of Cuba field guide, and Nils Navarro, author of Endemic Birds of Cuba.

Cuban bird and naturalist guides will accompany us during our visit. We will have many opportunities to observe Cuba’s conservation projects and discuss the challenges faced by the impacts of tourism with our guides and others involved in conservation. Transportation is via a comfortable, air-conditioned bus.

The leaders will make every reasonable effort to follow the itinerary as described, but please bear in mind that conditions are changing rapidly in Cuba and lodging is under increasingly intense demand. Weather or other conditions beyond our control may cause modification of plans to ensure the safety of the group. Birding locations may change based on local information or to enhance the experiences.

Each evening we will gather for those who wish to record the day’s sightings. A checklist will be provided.

Day 1: (Havana)

Arrive Havana and transfers to our hotel or casa particular. We will meet in the evening at our lodging and then have dinner in Old Havana.

Day 2: (Havana)

We will meet our Cuban guides. Today we explore Old Havana, pay a visit to the Havana Botannical Gardens, and meet Orlando Garrido, author of the Birds of Cuba field guide. Our dinner will be at a local paladar, a family-style restaurant.

Days 3-4: (Vinales and Surrounding Area)

We leave Havana early in the morning and head out to the unique Cuban countryside with its farms, stone houses and royal palms. On our way, we will see little vehicle traffic, as only 38 of 1000 Cubans own cars (compared to 800 out of 1000 in the US). Instead, we will see horse-drawn carts, walkers, hitch-hikers, and buses. We will stop along the way at prime birding locations, stopping at Las Terrazas, a model community known for its sustainable practices and ecotourism. We will look for Cuba’s national bird, the Cuban Trogon, as well as the Cuban Tody, Cuban green woodpecker, and others. Over the course of the two days in this area we will visit La Guira National Park, a 54,000-acre mountain wilderness with picturesque valleys and hidden caves.  It is home to many birds, including the Cuban solitaire, white-winged dove, yellow-faced grassquit, black-whiskered vireo, Cuban bullfinch, Cuban peewee, and Western spindalis. This area also includes a limestone cave where Che Guevara headquartered during the Cuban Missile Crisis of 1962. 

We will spend two nights in scenic Vinales, a picturesque small town surrounded by tobacco farms and the uniquely-shaped mogotes. If time permits, we will visit one of the tobacco farms just outside of Vinales. We will stay at casa particulares, where it is easy to interact with the locals and where the owners serve a hearty breakfast.

Days 5-7: (Zapata)

This morning we will head to the Zapata area, which has more than 900 species of flora, consisting of a mosaic of scrub, dry forest, swamp, mangrove, coastline, and mudflats with over 200 species of birds. It is part of the Zapata Biosphere Reserve, the largest protected area in the Caribbean and the best-preserved wetlands in all of the Antilles, totaling over one million acres. It is a “Wetland of International Importance,” designated by the Ramsar Convention. We will look for Cuban blackbird, Cuban oriole, and the Cuban emerald, and make a good effort during our time in Zapata to find the difficult-to-see Zapata wren and sparrow. 

We will bird the Bermejas Reserve in the Zapata region, with a good chance at blue-headed quail-dove, grey-headed quail-dove, and the Key West quail-dove. We will also look for Cuban parakeet, Cuban pygmy owl, Cuban woodpecker, Fernandina’s flicker, and the bee hummingbird -- the world’s smallest bird. Other possibles are Greater Antillean nightjar, tawny-shouldered blackbird, and bare-legged owl. Our meals will be at a variety of interesting restaurants with meals featuring fresh seafood and traditional Cuban cuisine, and we will stay at casa particulares.

While in the Zapata region, we will visit the great swamp, where we can see flamingos, numerous species of herons, and many other charismatic birds including warblers and terns. On our days here we will search for the elusive Zapata wren and Zapata sparrow. We will spend time at the Las Salinas del Brito Fauna Reserve, known for its mangrove swamps, coastal lagoons, and woods with 165 species of indigenous and migratory birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians, fish, and invertebrates. We can expect flamingos, roseate spoonbills, glossy and white ibis, herons, pelicans, snail kite, Cuban black hawk, and others.

Day 8: (Trinidad and Cienfuegos Botanical Gardens)

We leave Zapata, making a stop in Bermejas, and head to Cienfuegos Botanical Gardens. We spend the afternoon in Trinidad, an especially scenic colonial city known for its beauty and history of sugar wealth. As time permits, we will bird this area, looking for the Cuban gnatcatcher, the Cuban nightjar and the yellow-headed warbler.

Days 9 and 10 (Cayo Coco)

In the morning, we stop at Tunas de Zaza, then have lunch at the station. During this time we hope to meet some young Cuban students at a small school, where we can talk, through our guide, about how they are protecting their rich envorinment. The last trip, we also offered donations of school supplies, field guides and coloring books of the birds of Cuba to the school.

In the coastal area of Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo, we search the flats and shores for terns, flamingos, waterfowl and other birds. If time allows, we will visit the Cuban Center for Coastal Ecosystem Studies, El Baga National Park. 

We cross a 17-mile causeway to Cayo Coco. These islands are located within an archipelago called Jardines de Rey (King’s Gardens). In the fall of 2017, Hurricane Irma inflicted much damage on the area and much of the area’s trees were damaged. We will see how the area is recovering, while looking for the Oriente warbler, thick-billed vireo, Bahama mockingbird, Cuban gnatcatcher, mangrove cuckoo and a variety of waterbirds, including magnificent frigatebird, anhinga, tricolored heron, roseate spoonbill, and perhaps the secretive, non-migratory West Indian whistling-duck.

We should also have some extra time to relax at our resort hotel.

Day 11: (Havana)

We return to Havana, and enjoy a city walk if time allows, and a farewell supper to talk over our favorite moments on the trip.

Day 12: (Havana)

Trip ends after breakfast and transfers to the airport.

Getting There

Plan to be in Havana, Cuba in time to be at our hotel no later than 4 p.m. to gather for our Sierra Club trip orientation at 5 or 6 p.m. on day one (hotel details will be sent to you). Do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader. 

Accommodations and Food

Our accommodations are a mixture of hotels and local casa particulars (local B&Bs), or the best available. The trip charge is for each person in a double room with a private bath. Roommates of the same gender will be assigned if you are traveling alone. Otherwise, single rooms may be arranged with the leader for an extra charge of $250. All meals are included in the cost of the trip, as are all gratuities. Restaurants and cafes in Cuba offer vegetarian dishes. Eggs and cheeses are often available if you want a protein substitute. Breakfasts offer plentiful fruit and eggs. Please note any dietary restrictions when you fill out the application forms.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is focused on being in nature, and observing birds and other wildlife; hence we will have early morning departures to maximize birding opportunities, and everyone must be committed to being ready on time. You should be reasonably fit and in good health, with the ability to walk up to three miles a day and stand for prolonged periods while observing or looking for birds. The days will be full, but well-paced. Most trails will be level, with occasional slight grades. Be prepared for rain with a lightweight jacket. While this is not a photographic tour suited for long telephoto lenses and flash, there will be many opportunities for photos.

Equipment and Clothing

You should have a good pair of binoculars, preferably waterproof. The guide will carry a scope, though you may bring one if you plan on carrying it yourself. Essential clothing includes a broken-in pair of hiking shoes or boots (though solid tennis shoes should work well in nearly all conditions), lightweight rain gear, a sun hat, sunscreen, lightweight neutral-colored clothes (no whites) for the trail, a headlamp, a small daypack to carry water and snacks, and a Cuba bird guide. Swimming may be possible if beach conditions are calm, or at lodge pools. A detailed packing list and more information will be sent after sign up. For photographers, bring twice as much memory or backup storage devices as you originally planned.

References

• Garrido, Orlando and Arturo Kirkconnell, Field Guide to the Birds of Cuba.
• Navarro, Nils, Endemic Birds of Cuba.
• Wintner, Robert, Reef Libre: Cuba the Last, Best Reefs in the World.
• Lee, Alfonso Silva, Natural Cuba.
• Monzote, R., From Rainforest to Cane Fields in Cuba: An Environmental History since 1492.
• LeoGrande and Kornbluh, Back Channel to Cuba: The Hidden History of Negotiations between Washington and Havana.
• Sweig, Julie, Cuba: What Everyone Needs to Know.
• Frank, Marc, Cuban Revelations: Behind the Scenes in Havana.
• "The Cuba Libre Story," an eight-part documentary from Netflix Originals. 

Conservation

Cuba faces a number of environmental challenges due to its unique place in the world -- geographically, politically, and culturally. With tourism being the leading economic resource, there has been intense pressure to develop certain areas, especially along the coast for resorts. The government has put into place numerous environmental protections, but programs are often poorly funded. Cuba’s strategic goal is to develop sustainable tourism with benefits to the ecology, cultural exchange, and economy. However, we are hearing reports of coastal areas being cleared for new resorts and the advent of large cruise ships coming to Cuba’s shores.

By default and design, large institutional agriculture is not found in Cuba. The lack of financing for large tractors and chemical fertilizers drove farming practices to organic and local methods that are now becoming popular back in the U.S. Proudly independent, Cuba still needs to import a great deal of basic commodities, but aims toward a goal of sustainable food production.

Much of our conservation talks on the trip will be related to the protection of the bird life of Cuba. One still significant factor, despite laws in place, is the illegal pet trade. Historically, Cuban families enjoy keeping small birds as pets, with negative consequences for certain species of birds, particularly the Cuban grass quit. We will talk about efforts to change the attitudes of Cubans to stop this common practice. We will also discuss how global warming is affecting the island and stressing bird populations through increased and more intense hurricanes, warmer temperatures, and other factors.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.