Pure Peru: Machu Picchu and the Qhapaq Ñan

The Trip

At its peak the Incas enjoyed the largest and most advanced indigenous civilization in the Americas. The most iconic remnant of this society is the archaeological wonder at Machu Picchu. Very recently an even more impressive archaeological remnant has been opened to adventure travelers: the Qhapaq Ñan. Unlike Machu Picchu the Qhapaq Ñan remains largely undiscovered by adventure travelers.

The empire of the Incas stretched almost the entire length of western South America – from Quito, Ecuador to Santiago, Chile. Machu Picchu was perhaps the most important imperial retreat, military fortress, and ceremonial site in the empire; today it certainly is the most famous and most visited Inca site. Nevertheless, Machu Picchu is just one small place located in a vast realm.

The Qhapaq Ñan is the name for the system of trails that connected that vast empire. It contains 25,000 miles of trails at elevations from sea level to 16,000 feet and provides access to 1.2 million square miles within the Inca Empire. The Greatest Inca Trail is a small part of the Qhapaq Ñan, running about 2,000 miles from Quito, Ecuador to Cusco, Peru. It is considered to be the centerpiece of the Qhapaq Ñan, the most monumental section and one of the world’s greatest ancient transportation systems. The Greatest Inca Trail is now in the very early stages of development as an adventure travel destination. 

This small group trip is the only one that provides an experience that is truly a grand tour of the Andes in which we will visit Machu Picchu and then trek on the Greatest Inca Trail. We begin in Cusco, the center of the Inca Empire, explore the Sacred Valley, and finally walk into Machu Picchu through the famous Inti Punku, the Sun Gate. After discovering Machu Picchu we will follow in the footsteps of the Incas on a 45-mile expedition on the first section of the Greatest Inca Trail that has been opened to trekkers. This trip may also be the first-ever group tour on this segment of the Trail.

One last thing…

Whatever you do, do not confuse this trek with the Inca Trail. The Inca Trail is a tiny 21-mile section of the Qhapaq Ñan, which starts a few kilometers outside of Aguas Calientes and culminates at Machu Picchu. While definitely a wonderful experience in its own right, the Inca Trail is infinitely more crowded and far less remote than the Greatest Inca Trail. Think of it this way: 500 tourists per day are allowed on the Inca Trail, but the Greatest Inca Trail is so undiscovered that it probably hasn’t had 500 tourists ever.

If you have the passion, curiosity, and fearlessness of an explorer; if you embrace a challenge that will test your mental and physical limits; if you believe that, within reason, there is no mountain too high, no trail too steep, no terrain too rugged, no weather too daunting, and no destination too risky, then you’re invited. Join us on this expedition and count yourself among the few adventure travelers who have followed the footsteps of the Incas on the Greatest Inca Trail.

Day 1: Arrival to Cuzco

We arrive at Cuzco this morning at our convenience. On arrival, we’ll be met at the airport and taken to our trip hotel to settle in and spend the day relaxing and starting to acclimatize to the altitude. We might like to take a gentle stroll around the San Blas neighborhood and the historic center of the city – but take it easy! In the afternoon, we gather for our orientation meeting and a welcome dinner together as a group. Hotel check-in is from 11 a.m. Overnight in Cusco at an elevation of 11,400 feet.

Day 2: Private Cuzco & Sacred Valley Tour

During our morning tour of Cuzco, once the capital of the Incan Empire, we will visit Sacsayhuaman, an immense Incan complex with impressive stonework. From here we take a short, downhill hike to the city center where we will visit Koricancha, one of the most important Incan temples (the walls were once actually coated in gold!). After lunch, our guide will take us into the Sacred Valley, a land lost in time amid the mountains. We will visit the Maras Salineras: thousands of pools built into the hillside to collect the mineral-rich water; when it evaporates it leaves a unique pink salt. We will then hike down to the Sacred Valley and head to our hotel. Overnight in the Sacred Valley at an elevation of 9,700 feet.

Day 3: Private Choquechaca Full-Day Tour

Our day will start with a 7 a.m. pick-up, when we will be driven to a remote trailhead. From there we will continue on foot to begin our 2-3 hour ascent into the remote village of Choquechaca at an elevation of 13,000 feet. Upon arrival, we will have the opportunity to eat a fresh mountain lunch and visit with the community. Afterward, we’ll return down the mountain, stopping to tour the Inca ruins at Pumamarka. After a busy day, we’ll enjoy dinner in the town square before heading back to the hotel. Overnight in the Sacred Valley at an elevation of 9,700 feet. Hiking duration: 6-8 hours; distance: 8 miles; highest elevation: 12,500 feet; elevation gain: 2,000 feet. (All hiking profiles are approximate.)

Day 4: Short Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

In the morning, we’ll journey by train to Kilometer 104, where we’ll begin hiking. The first stop on the hike is at Chachabamba at 7,380 feet elevation and then we’ll gradually ascend for approximately three hours toward the fascinating archaeological site of Wiñay Wayna at 8,690 feet. After lunch, we will continue through the semi-tropical forest toward Intipunku (the Sun Gate), where we will enjoy our first panoramic view of Machu Picchu. After a short exploration of Machu Picchu, we’ll drive to our hotel and spend the evening relaxing before returning to Machu Picchu for more extensive explorations tomorrow. Overnight in Machu Picchu Pueblo at an elevation of 6,700 feet. Hiking duration: 6 ½ hours; distance: 6 ½ miles; highest elevation: 9,000 feet; elevation gain: 1,600 feet. 

Day 5: Machu Picchu Tour

Today we will uncover the secrets of Machu Picchu during a guided tour of the Incan citadel. We’ll visit the most important parts of the ruins to learn how and why they were constructed. After the tour, you’ll have time to further explore the ruins or sit back and enjoy the magic of Machu Picchu. Then we’ll depart from Machu Picchu town by train and transfer back to Cusco. Overnight in Cusco at an elevation of 11,400 feet.

Day 6: Cooking Class & Return to Lima

This morning, we will meet our chef who will take us on a tour of the San Pedro Market to learn about the different ingredients used in Peruvian cooking. Then we’ll walk to the cooking school kitchen where we will learn to make a Pisco Sour (the national adult beverage) plus three traditional Peruvian dishes. At the end of the class we’ll eat the delicious meal that we prepared! After lunch, we will board our flight to Lima. Overnight in Lima at an elevation of sea level.

Day 7: Lima to Huaraz

This morning we will travel by bus to Huaraz, the gateway to the Qhapaq Ñan aka the Great Inca Trail. A meal is provided by the onboard staff and there will be an additional boxed dinner. Overnight in Huaraz at an elevation of 10,000 feet. This journey takes about 8.5 hours and involves travel on winding mountainous roads. Anyone who is prone to motion sickness will need to bring proper medication.

Day 8: Huaraz Day Hike

Today we will head into the foothills of the Cordillera Blanca to further explore the area. The hike starts at an elevation of 12,630 feet and takes us to the beautiful Laguna Churup – at the base of a snow-capped mountain of the same name – at an elevation of 14,600 feet. Once we’ve had time to enjoy the views and our boxed lunch, we will return to Huaraz. Overnight in Huaraz at an elevation of 10,000 feet. Hiking duration: 6-8 hours; distance: 4½ miles; highest elevation: 14,600 feet; lowest elevation: 12,600 feet; drive time to trailhead: 2 hours round-trip.

Day 9: Huaraz to Castillo & Trek to Soledad de Tambo

Heading out early from Huaraz we will drive to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Chavin de Huantar. This site gave its name to a pre-Inca culture that developed between 1500 and 300 B.C. in this high valley of the Peruvian Andes. Chavin is a former place of worship and is considered to be one of the earliest and best-known collections of pre-Columbian structures. Its appearance is striking, with the complex of terraces and squares, surrounded by buildings of dressed stone. After touring Chavin we drive to the small town of Castillo, where we will begin the trek on the Greatest Inca Trail. We will climb along the trail toward Soledad de Tambo. This Inca “tambo” will also be our camp for the evening, allowing us to explore the Inca ruins and speak with the archaeologists on-site about their exciting new discoveries. Overnight camping in Soledad de Tambo at an elevation of 11,700 feet. Hiking duration: 2 hours; distance: 2 ½ miles; highest elevation: 11,700 feet; lowest elevation: 9,800 feet; drive time to trailhead: 7 hours, including the tour at Chavin de Huantar.

Day 10: Soledad de Tambo – Quenuajirca

After leaving the Inca tambo, we will follow a section of the Greatest Inca Trail that reaches 50 feet in width, with stunning views of high Andean peaks. After climbing to the 15,000-foot pass at Wagapunta for most of the morning, we will arrive at camp at Quenuajirca by the afternoon. There we will visit the master weaver Juan Araujo to learn about his work and life on The Great Inca Trail, home of his ancestors. Overnight camping at an elevation of 14,400 feet. Hiking distance: 10½ miles; highest elevation: 14,400 feet; lowest elevation: 11,700 feet.

Day 11: Quenuajirca to Tambo Grande

After descending to the small town of Ayash, we start climbing to the high Andean puna (plateau) at the village of Huamanin. The Great Inca Trail then goes along the Taparaco river basin to Tambo Grande. We will camp under immense equatorial skies that illuminate the Milky Way and surrounding stars, allowing us to understand how the cosmic vision defined the Inca society and religion. Each evening of the trek we’ll brainstorm suggestions for further development of the trail. Overnight camping in Tambo Grande at an elevation of 13,950 feet. Hiking distance: 10½ miles; highest elevation: 14,700 feet; lowest elevation: 13,950 feet.

Day 12: Great Inca Trail – Tambo Grande to Isco

Continuing down the Great Inca Trail and beside the Taparaco River, we will experience one of the most impressive sections of the Inca road anywhere in the Empire. It’s a day where nature and Inca engineering turn our walk into a mystical experience that immerses us in an Andean world that very few people ever experience. We will arrive at San Lorenzo de Isco by early afternoon, in time for lunch and afternoon tea. Overnight camping at an elevation of 12,630 feet. Hiking distance: 13 miles; highest elevation: 11,980 feet; lowest elevation: 12,630 feet.

Day 13: Great Inca Trail – Isco to Huanuco Pampa

After arriving at Colpa, where the Taparaco and Vizcarra rivers collide, we meet our vehicle and drive up the steep climb to Huánuco Pampa. This important Inca administrative center boasts thousands of constructions built around an impressive Ushnu (a ceremonial platform from which the Inca presided over festivals and other important ceremonies) and is an excellent example of imperial Inca architecture. After a tour of the site, we will go by private vehicle back to Huaraz to relax at our hotel before our departure the following day. Overnight in Huaraz at an elevation of 10,000 feet. Hiking distance: 6½ miles; highest elevation: 11,980 feet; lowest elevation: 10,000 feet.

Day 14: Huaraz to Lima

After a final breakfast in this incredible region, we will be taken back to the bus station for our first-class bus journey back to Lima. Overnight in Lima at sea level. This journey takes about 8.5 hours and involves travel on winding mountainous roads. Anyone who is prone to motion sickness will need to bring proper medication.

Day 15: International Departure

At the appropriate time, we’ll make our way to the airport for your international flight home. Hotel check-out is at 12 p.m. and complimentary airport shuttles are available every 30 minutes.

Getting There

This trip begins in Cusco and ends in Lima.

Plan to arrive in Cusco no later than the morning of day one of the trip. Cusco is located at an elevation of 11,400 feet and during the trip we will ascend to nearly 15,000 feet, so it is strongly recommended that you arrive several days earlier to begin adjusting to the altitude. There are currently very few direct flights to Cusco; the vast majority of flights connect through Lima. Warning: the connecting flight schedules can sometimes have very long connection times so review your itinerary carefully. If you arrive at night in Lima you can consider spending a night in Lima (a gorgeous colonial city) and fly to Cusco the following day. When you arrive in Cusco you will be greeted at the airport and transferred to the hotel.

Plan to depart from Lima no earlier than the morning of Day 15. Check-out time is noon at the airport hotel where you will be staying and free airport shuttles are offered every half-hour.

The leader will send additional travel information to approved guests. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

On the first part of the trip, the accommodations are in charming, comfortable hotels that are owned and operated by Peruvian people. Accommodations in Cusco, Aguas Calientes (the town at the base of Machu Picchu), the Sacred Valley, and Lima can be considered "upscale tourist class" (3+ to 4 stars). All hotel rooms have en suite bathrooms. 

On the expeditionary part of the trip accommodations will be camping. All camping equipment is included: Eureka (or equivalent quality) tents, 1” self-inflating Thermarest sleeping pads, and 0-degree sleeping bags. Two guests will be in each tent; the tent is rated to accommodate three people. Single guests will be in a tent rated for two people. All tents have a rain fly and a large vestibule. Each day of the trek we’ll be accompanied by a guide, several llama handlers, and a chef, and our luggage will be carried by llamas so we’ll only have to hike with a small daypack.

The trip is double occupancy. This means that single guests will be matched with another single guest of the same sex. A single supplement is available at additional cost. Meals at each of the hotels and in camp are prepared by an excellent chef and local kitchen staff. The food is delicious and plentiful and vegetarians can easily be accommodated.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is for advanced hikers and trekkers. It is a strenuous high-altitude trek and should not be underestimated. Altitudes on the trek range from 6,200 feet to almost 15,000 feet and we will hike up to 10 hours per day. Some days require ascents or descents of several thousand feet and climbing more than one high altitude pass. You must be in excellent physical condition and have significant hiking experience to qualify for this trip. Previous high-altitude hiking experience is preferred. The leader is happy to answer any questions you may have and to help you plan your pre-trip conditioning.

Equipment and Clothing

Peru is an equatorial country so the weather is typically pleasant and consistent, and there are two seasons: the dry season and the rainy season; this trip is in the dry season. At higher elevations, we’ll encounter cooler temperatures ranging from the mid-60s during the day to the mid 30s at night. Many days can be partly cloudy, foggy, or misty early in the day, but it is usually sunny in the afternoon. Nevertheless, we must still be prepared for heat, cold, wind, rain, and even the slight possibility of snow at our highest elevations. At lower elevations, we’ll find temperatures ranging from low to mid-80s to low 60s. Machu Picchu can be very sunny and hot in the afternoon. We’ll need to bring a pair of well-broken-in, sturdy hiking boots, trekking poles, a rain coat and pants, and some warm layers for highly variable temperatures. A complete list of packing recommendations will be sent to guests once they are approved. 

References

• Wright, R. & Zegarra, A., The Machu Picchu Guidebook: A Self-Guided Tour. 2004. This is a good guide to the ruins of Machu Picchu and handy to have while at Machu Picchu.
• Bingham, H., The Lost City of the Incas, revised ed. 2003. A reprint of Bingham’s original account of his "discovery" of Machu Picchu with archival photographs. The book was originally published in 1948.
• MacQuarrie, K., The Last Days of the Incas. 2008. Another perspective on the fall of the Incas. This book also discusses modern scholars evolving interpretations of Inca remains.
• Stewart, A., Inca Trail, Cusco & Machu Picchu, 5th ed. 2013. This Trailblazer book has descriptions of several treks in Peru, including ours, The Salcantay Trek.
• Del Sante, G. & Chang, D., Flowers of Machu Picchu: Including Orchids. 2006. This is the best book the trip leader could find on the common flowers of the region we will be visiting.
• Adams, Mark, Turn Right at Machu Picchu. 2011. An engaging book, similar to Bill Bryson’s famous book “A Walk in the Woods," in which the author retraces the original expedition that rediscovered Machu Picchu.

Conservation

Since its founding in 1892, The Sierra Club has worked to preserve and restore the natural environment we all share on this planet. Thousands of grassroots-level volunteers spearhead our efforts to conserve and sustain resources, both in our own backyards and on a global scale. Through direct experience in the outdoors, Sierra Club outings enable participants to better understand, advocate, and participate in the environmental conservation goals of the Club.

Tourism in this area of Peru has been a mixed blessing, especially with the increase in popularity of Machu Picchu. On the one hand, it accounts for much of the economy and provides jobs for many of the local people. However, it has also led to widespread exploitation of labor and the environment, including a troublesome trash disposal problem on popular trekking routes and damage to the Machu Picchu ruins. We will discuss how tourism can be used as a source for economic and community development, and the steps that some organizations are taking to promote more ecologically friendly tourism.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.