Ramble in the Wrangells, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska

The Trip

In South-central Alaska, three mountain ranges - the Wrangell, St. Elias, and Chugach - converge, forming an immense alpine wilderness which includes the United States’ largest national park.  The area boasts the nation’s largest protected glacial complex, and many of the highest peaks in the United States, including the second-highest, 18,008-foot Mt. St. Elias. While the Athabascan Indians and, later, prospectors in the late-1800s traveled the route, park visitors seldom hike the remote area we plan to explore.

Starting in 1979, with extensions in 1992 and 1994 the United Nations designated Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, together with neighboring Kluane National Park in Canada, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This designation indicates that preservation of this site is in the interest of the international community. However, the national park and UNESCO designations do not protect the area and its immense glaciers from climate change and warming temperatures. We will have opportunities to closely observe the Sanford and Dadina Glaciers on our hike.

An additional highlight of our trip will be the time we spend in McCarthy and Kennecott, two frontier towns with fascinating histories. McCarthy is the gateway to Wrangell-St. Elias, while the ghost town of Kennecott perches high above it all, nestled between peaks and dramatic glaciers. Kennecott's story began in 1900, when prospectors spotted a patch of green hillside that looked like good grazing ground for their packhorses. The "grass" turned out to be the green glint of copper ore. Within 20 years, the strike proved to be the richest known concentration of copper ore in the world, and Kennecott was home to some 800 workers. The high-grade ore played out by the 1930’s and the Kennecott Copper Corporation moved out. Overnight, the booming company town became a ghost town. In 1986, Congress recognized Kennecott Mines as a National Historic Landmark. We will explore Kennicott Glacier, which was named with a different spelling than the Kennecott Corporation, and both spellings are widely adopted.

Day 1: Our trip begins with an early morning van shuttle from Anchorage to the airstrip in the small town of Gulkana.  From Gulkana our bush pilot will deliver us to our starting point on the Sanford River, via a fantastic flight with views of nearby peaks, glaciers, and rivers.  We will have a short hike to our initial campsite.

Days 2-6: On the second day we will climb 1,000 feet to the Dadina plateau at 4,800 feet. There is fantastic hiking in all directions once on the plateau as we make our way to the Dadina River over the next four days. While there is not a designated path to cross the plateau, an unforgettable wilderness experience is guaranteed. We may have a layover day, with an optional day hike, depending on conditions and weather.

Days 7-8: On day seven we will be shuttled by bush plane from the Dadina River to the town of McCarthy. We will spend our final night at the best local lodge, treating ourselves to hot showers, a tour of the historic Kennecott Mines, and a celebratory dinner. The trip will end late the following day after our van trip to Anchorage.

Getting There

We will meet in Anchorage on the evening of July 28th. Please plan your flights to hopefully accommodate getting together for dinner at 6:00 p.m. The leaders will suggest several places to stay in Anchorage and choose a central location in Anchorage to meet the morning of July 29th to begin the trip.

August 5th our van driver will pick us up at McCarthy for our return journey to Anchorage, planning to arrive mid to late afternoon.

You will learn in Alaska that the weather will be the controlling factor. Flexibility is always important. You should plan on spending the night of August 5th in Anchorage and not booking a flight home until the 6th.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

All meals and snacks for the trip, from lunch on the first full day to lunch on the last day, are included in the trip price. The food on the trip is delicious, hearty, and memorable. Many of the meals that are planned are suitable for vegetarians and the leaders are happy to accommodate vegetarians. Please let the leaders know if you have any particular food requirements. As usual on Sierra Club trips, all members help with cooking and cleanup chores, with each person (as part of a team) assisting for a number of days.

Our last night's accommodations will be provided by the Kennicott Glacier Lodge. The lodge has large decks and great views of the surrounding mountains, as well as a sauna and fire pit. The meals at the lodge are included.

Trip Difficulty

Moderate. This trip is for experienced backpackers. Strong, enthusiastic beginners should contact the leaders so we can talk about how to adequately prepare for a trip like this. While we hope for sunny and dry days, we must be prepared for any condition. We will need to be prepared for warm sunny days, cold nights, and periods of rain or snow. If you are prepared, and can greet adverse weather as part of the adventure, not as an ordeal, you will enjoy this trip.

There will be no trails, so the hiking could be difficult. We will be crossing streams and may be hiking on wet tundra and tussocks, so you may have wet boots much of the time. 

While some days may be long, our intention is to have a layover day with optional day hike to explore the mountains and surrounding areas. The layover day will be weather dependent.

Equipment and Clothing

Trip participants are expected to furnish their own personal gear. The leaders will provide a complete equipment list with the letter of approval sent to each participant. The Sierra Club provides group equipment, including pots, cooking utensils, stoves, fuel, cooking tarp, satellite phone, bear canisters, repair kit and first aid kit.  Please feel free to contact the leaders with any questions about equipment.

References

Maps:

USGS Gulkana A-1, A-2

Books:

Fensterman, Greg, Hiking Alaska’s Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, Falcon Guides, 2008.

Wrangell-Saint Elias International Mountain Wilderness, Alaska Geographic, Vol. 8, No. 1, 1981.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve – National Park Series, Alaska Geographic.

Website:

https://www.nps.gov/wrst/planyourvisit/upload/Sanford-Dadina%20Route%20Updated%2012-3.pdf

Conservation

The history of the park dates back to 1938 when the Secretary of the Interior was requested to protect the area. In 1973 the Secretary of the Interior defined 80 million acres of Alaska for protection as national parks and forests. In 1979, President Jimmy Carter defined 11 million acres to become national monuments. In 1980, President Carter designated 13.2 million acres to become Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve.

On a parallel track, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, along with Kluane National Park and Reserve, was designated a World Heritage site starting in 1979, with extensions in 1992 and 1994. 

Today, subsistence and sport hunting, fishing, and trapping are allowed in the Park and Preserve. Some of the approaches used in the hunting are under review. We will be completing our trip just as sheep-hunting season begins. Recreational use of off-road vehicles is also a concern and under review. Currently permits are required.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and will operate under a permit from Alaska National Parks.