Redrock Exploration: Rafting and Hiking in Canyonlands National Park, Utah

The Trip

Cataract Canyon -- even the name is legendary. John Wesley Powell’s 1869 expedition was the first to explore this remote section of the Colorado River, and the area remains isolated even today. This Redrock Exploration trip combines the best of all worlds. We’ll begin with three days of hikes in secluded areas near Canyonlands National Park. Then we’ll spend six days on the river, experiencing the thrills of Cataract Canyon while stopping each day to hike up side canyons to Native American rock art that are accessible only by river.

Our trip begins at our base camp at Green River State Park. From here, we’ll take day hikes to discover sinuous slot canyons and inspiring pictographs in the San Rafael Swell, wander through the mushroom rock formations at Goblin Valley State Park, search for dinosaur bones in the Morrison Formation, and learn about river history and Native Americans at the John Wesley Powell Museum. The first two evenings will feature talks by local conservationists, while on the third evening we will get ready for the river section of the trip. While at the base camp we will use a camp kitchen to prepare our meals, and participants will be asked to help the leaders cook or clean up.

Cataract Canyon is carved deep within the redrocks of Canyonlands National Park and is home to the biggest whitewater rapids in Utah. Although the whitewater is certainly a draw, there’s much more to experience on the river, including serene floats beneath 1,000 foot canyon walls, sandy beach camps, star-filled skies, a variety of hikes, and thrilling rapids. We’ll stop each day for hikes up secret canyons that are only accessible by river. Cataract Canyon features 300 million years of rock history, abstract sculpted sandstone spires, and ancient Anasazi petroglyphs and granaries.

During the first few days of the river trip, the fast-moving current will glide quietly beneath brilliantly colored cliffs and towering table-top mesas. This is a good time to play in inflatable kayaks and stand-up paddle boards. We’ll stop each day for hikes to view 250-million-year-old petrified wood, petroglyphs with humanoid figures and handprints, granaries, or sand washes filled with gnarled cottonwoods. We’ll hike up and over a Colorado River meander, allowing for grand vistas of the Canyonlands area. We’ll also spend time in the Doll’s House, a fanciful collection of beautiful multi-colored towers and spires.

Evening camps will be on riverside beaches. Our professional river guides will prepare scrumptious meals while we relax at happy hour. Due to its remote nature, Canyonlands National Park has been designated a “Gold Tier International Dark Sky Park” and at night we should be able to see tens of thousands of stars in the dark sky.

The last few days of our trip features Cataract Canyon, the section of the Colorado River which drops so steeply that we’ll run 23 rapids in just a few miles. These Class III and IV rapids will fire up our adrenaline, drench us with water, and make us scream in delight. After running all the drops, we’ll spend one more night on a sandy beach, celebrating our new experiences and new friendships. On our last day, the Colorado River will flow into Lake Powell and a motor boat will tow us beneath even more towering cliffs to the takeout. We’ll then be driven back to our vehicles in Green River.

Please note: For the first three days, participants will use their personal/rental cars to drive to the trailheads. In addition, your leaders may need to revise the hikes based on weather and road conditions.

Day 1: For the people who arrive at Green River early, we will visit the John Wesley Powell Museum. At 1:00 p.m. (when the trip officially starts), everyone will meet at our base camp at Green River State Park. This lush, shaded park along the Green River will be our home for the first three days. The park has flush toilets and hot showers. After setting up tents and meeting everyone, we’ll take a short drive to Black Dragon Canyon. An easy walk will lead us beneath towering sandstone cliffs streaked with desert varnish to two Fremont pictograph panels. Upon returning to camp, we’ll prepare dinner together. We may have an evening talk by a local expert.

Day 2: Little Wildhorse Canyon, Goblin Valley, and Temple Mountain Petroglyphs. After we eat breakfast and pack a lunch, we’ll drive south to Goblin Valley State Park. We’ll spend an hour or so wandering among the uniquely shaped stone goblins and gnomes, and learning about the geologic forces that created this playground. We’ll then drive a short distance to the Little Wildhorse Canyon/Bell Canyon trailhead. Little Wildhorse Canyon is one of the best slot-canyon hikes in the Southwest, with great narrows and easy technical obstacles. Sculpted, frozen waves of Navajo sandstone tell of fast water and suspended particles relentlessly grinding the path of least resistance. This is a moderately strenuous hike; at times, you must turn sideways to fit through a slot or use your hands to help scramble over chock stones. After regrouping and sipping cool drinks back at the vehicles, we’ll drive a short distance to the Temple Mountain Pictographs. This pictograph panel is significant because it contains some of the largest prehistoric painted figures in Utah. We’ll end our day with dinner at our base camp, and possibly a conservation talk by a local expert.

Day 3: Horseshoe Canyon. In the morning we will make a brief stop at Fossil Point and check out the dinosaur bones. We’ll park at the base of a tall ridge of red and purple rocks -- the Morrison Formation -- which contains fossilized dinosaur bones that date back to the Jurassic period (145 million years ago). We can explore the area on our own, finding the fossils (look, take pictures, but don’t take them home!), or we may have a guest geologist who will help to explain the significance of the formation and the fossils. We’ll also scramble to the top of the Point for a spectacular view to the southeast of the La Sal Mountains (the second highest range in Utah) and to the southwest of the Henry Mountains (the last range in the United States to be “discovered”).

Later that morning we will visit the Great Gallery at Horseshoe Canyon, a 7-mile moderate hike. The Gallery spans thousands of years of human history, from as early as 11,000 years ago to the Late Archaic period, 4,000 to 1,500 years ago. Nomadic groups of hunter-gathers made Horseshoe Canyon their seasonal home. They created the rock markings known as the “Barrier Canyon” style. The Great Gallery includes both pictographs (painted figures) and petroglyphs (figures etched in the rock).

After lunch back at camp, we’ll take a short drive into town to visit the John Wesley Powell River History Museum. The Museum contains exhibits about the history of the area, river running, and dinosaurs, as well as a movie depicting John Wesley Powell’s first descent of the Green and Colorado Rivers in 1869. These explorers ran the same section of river that we will, only they were in wooden boats with no knowledge of what lay around each bend of the canyon. After dinner back at our base camp, the rafting outfitter will provide a pre-river talk, hand out dry bags, and answer any questions about the river portion of our trip.

Day 4: Let’s get on the river! A general itinerary is described below; however, this may be adjusted due to weather, river flow, and group desires.

Early in the morning, we’ll pack up our camp and drive the short distance to the outfitter’s headquarters. Our vehicles will be left here, and the outfitter will drive all of us about 1-1/2 hours to the put-in on the Colorado River below Potash. The river is gentle today, allowing us to get used to being in rafts, or to paddle an inflatable kayak or stand up paddleboard. We’ll take a short hike to see 250-million-year-old petrified wood. Entire tree trunks stick out from sandstone cliffs, uncovered through erosion after being buried for millions of years. The trees are so well preserved that you can see tree rings and bark. Our evening camp will be on a sandbar beach, surrounded by high canyon cliffs that melt like embers from gold to crimson in the setting sun.

Day 5: The river continues to be gentle, meandering through beautiful red-rock canyon country. There are great opportunities for participants to play on the river using inflatable kayaks and stand up paddle boards. Today’s hike will be to Lathrop Canyon, where we’ll see petroglyphs and ancient Native American ruins. This area has spectacular rock art and even handprints left behind from a thousand years ago.

Each ruin is hidden beneath shady alcoves that overlook the river. Above and around them are good examples of pictographs, including desert bighorn sheep, humanoid figures, and mysterious handprints -- one of which is missing a finger. Time permitting, we may also hike along Indian Creek. Indian Creek was an ancient route to the rim used by the Anasazi people as they moved from the low country to the high country. More granaries are found here, all lined up on a cliff edge overlooking the lush canyon bottom. We’ll camp again on a generous sandbar and share stories by campfire, and if there’s no moon, marvel at the thousands of stars visible in this remote area. 

Day 6: The sheer sandstone cliffs force the mighty Colorado River into two tight loops. In this section, it takes the river four miles to travel only 1,500 feet. We’ll have the opportunity to take the Loop Hike up and over a saddle, while the boats meet us further down river. The Loop Hike isn’t a loop at all, but a shortcut that traverses over a large ridge between a massive curve (meander) in the river. This hike is an excellent way to stretch your legs and the view from the top is remarkable and well worth the effort. After we rejoin the boats, we’ll float past the confluence with the Green River, a major tributary that doubles the Colorado’s flow. We’ll now be deep in the heart of Canyonlands National Park.

Day 7: Depending on weather and river flows, today may be a layover day or a short river day. Either way, we’ll have an extended period of time to explore the Doll’s House. The name refers to a series of candy-colored spires that rise far above the river. When John Wesley Powell first saw the formations, he called them “the sentinels," but the name changed when a rancher’s daughter thought one particular formation looked like a doll’s house. From the beach at Spanish Bottom, we’ll hike up a stair-step trail almost a thousand vertical feet to a large outcrop of Cedar Mesa sandstone that has been weathered into a collection of beautiful multi-colored towers and spires. Short loops lead to Ancient Puebloan granaries and to Surprise Valley, as well as to overlooks of the La Sal Mountains shimmering in the distance. If we don’t layover at Spanish Bottom today, then in the afternoon we’ll run the first few rapids of Cataract Canyon.

Day 8: It’s time for Cataract Canyon! We’ll put away the kayaks and paddleboards and get ready to run the legendary Class III-IV Big Drops of Cataract Canyon. With the extra flow provided by the Green River, the Colorado has doubled in size and the volume of the water creates even bigger rapids as the canyon narrows. We’ll encounter a total of 23 rapids in 15 miles, and each one is a thrill. The Big Drops -- a set of three rapids in short succession -- rival those found in the Grand Canyon. Each is a lineup of falls, holes, and waves that can swallow a raft at high water. Fortunately, we’ll have lower flows for this trip, so these rapids will be more forgiving…but still exciting! After splashes and thrills, we’ll spend our last night together on one more sandy beach, falling asleep to the murmur of the river. 

Day 9: As the Colorado River flows into the upper reaches of Lake Powel, we’ll be met by a motor boat. Although the reservoir drowned out the river here, we’re surrounded by 2,000-foot-high sandstone walls, and the tow to the take-out is still spectacular. Our outfitter’s van will meet us at take-out, and drive us back to Green River. We should arrive between 5:00 and 6:00 p.m., so it’s recommended that people spend the night in Green River and join in the no-host farewell dinner before heading home the next day. 

Although not part of this trip, the town of Green River celebrates the Melon Days Festival the third weekend of September each year. People may wish to stay an extra day in Green River to see the parade, car show, concerts, etc. For those who decide to spend the evening of Day 9 in town, it’s recommended that you make your hotel or camping reservation early, as the town will be filled up for the Festival.

Getting There

Our trip begins and ends in the town of Green River, Utah. Green River is about 180 miles east of Salt Lake City, on I-70. If you are driving, please refer to a reference such as Google Maps for directions. If you choose to fly, the closest major airport is Salt Lake City. The closest regional airport is Canyonlands Field Airport, which is about 30 miles from Green River. Currently, there is a daily commuter flight between Canyonlands Field and Denver. Amtrak also has a daily stop in Green River. Car rentals are available at Salt Lake City and at Canyonlands Field, and there are also several shuttle services that can transport you from the airport to Green River. Your trip leader can assist you in making travel arrangements, and in finding other participants for carpooling. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

For Days 1-3, we will be camping at a group campsite in Green River. The campground has flush toilets and showers. For Days 4-8, we will be camping along the river. After the trip ends late in the afternoon of Day 9, you may wish to spend the night in Green River before heading home. The leader will provide a list of potential places to stay.

All food will be provided, beginning with dinner on Day 1 through lunch on Day 9. Your Sierra Club leaders will prepare the meals while at the group campsite in Green River. On the river, our river guides are also the camp chefs. Breakfasts include fresh coffee, and items such as made-to-order omelets, fresh blueberry pancakes, hash browns, bacon, and sausage. There is always a cold option of granola, yogurt, and fresh fruit for those who prefer something lighter. If you’re hungry during the day, there’s trail mix, snack bars, and fruit. Lunches are usually served deli style or packed ahead of time for a day of hiking. When served on the river, the guides will set up a buffet beginning with the “instant gratification station” of PB&J, chips, raisins, nuts, cookies, and fresh fruit. Lunches range from chicken Caesar wraps; to deli sandwiches or wraps with all the extras like pickles, avocado, hummus & hot sauce; to pasta salads chocked full of fresh veggies. After a long day of hiking or rafting, we’ll wind down with freshly prepared appetizers, which are served while the guides begin preparing dinner. Veggies, fresh cheeses, and chips and salsa lead into delicious gourmet camp dinners prepared with the famous Dutch ovens or grilled to order. Fresh salads and breads complement the menu, and our pineapple upside down cake, brownies, or sopapillas will top off a perfect meal.

We can accommodate food allergies or dietary needs with advance notice and the meals can be tailored for vegetarians. Please indicate any dietary issues on the personal questionnaire that you submit when you reserve the trip. 

Beverages will be provided including drinking water, lemonade, coffee, tea, and hot chocolate. You may wish to bring your own sodas or other favorite beverages in plastic bottles, cans, or wine boxes. No glass is allowed on the river trip and no alcohol is allowed during the day or while on the river. This is for your safety, and the safety and enjoyment of others.

Trip Difficulty

The hiking and rafting activities are moderate to strenuous in nature, and participants need to be in basic good health so that we can all enjoy the trip. Many of the hikes are 5-7 miles in length, and include elevation gain and steep, rocky trails. Because there are two trip leaders, it may be possible to split the group so that those who wish to hike farther or faster are able to do so. In addition, those who want a day off from hiking may choose to relax in camp. Participants are encouraged to walk, hike, and do muscle strengthening exercises in preparation for the trip. The Cataract Canyon portion of the trip is professionally guided and includes rapids up to Class IV. Because this trip is in the fall, we’ll have lower flows so the rapids may be more at a Class III+ level. No previous rafting experience is necessary; however, participants should be able to brace themselves on a raft, expect to get wet, and be prepared for the unlikely event of a swim. The outfitter will give an in-depth safety talk before we get on the river. Participants will be asked to assist in loading and unloading dry bags and other equipment on and off the rafts, and will need to be able to carry their camping gear to and from the campsites. 

Equipment and Clothing

Rafts, paddles, life jackets, waterproof river bags, camp chairs, and group kitchen gear will be provided. Registered participants will receive a detailed packing list for the trip. In addition to your personal camping clothes, you'll need to have a free-standing, backpack-type tent with a removable rainfly, as well as a sleeping bag and pad. Tents and sleeping gear are available for rent from the outfitter. You should also bring broken-in hiking shoes, a day pack, and water bottles for the hikes.

References

An overview of this area's natural and human history will enhance your experience. The following sources are recommended:

• Williams, David B., A Naturalist’s Guide to Canyon Country. This comprehensive and beautifully illustrated trailside reference describes the geology plus more than 290 plants, animals, reptiles, and insects that are found in an area that includes nine national parks and monuments. 
• Patterson, Carol, Petroglyphs of Western Colorado and the Northern Ute Indian Reservation as Interpreted by Clifford Duncan. Anthropologist Carol Patterson and Northern Ute elder Clifford Duncan describe and decipher petroglyphs found throughout western Colorado. The interpretations are supplemented with cultural and political history to provide a background context. In addition, ethnographic information from other scholars provides readers with a deep appreciation as to what makes Ute petroglyphs so unique and fascinating.
• Abbey, Edward, Desert Solitaire: A Season in the Wilderness. “Edward Abbey lived for three season in the desert at Moab, Utah, and what he discovered about the land before him, the world around him, and the heart that beat within, is a fascinating, sometimes raucous, always personal account of a place that has already disappeared, but is worth remembering and living through again and again.” (New York Times Book Review)
• Fedarko, Kevin, The Emerald Mile: the Epic Story of the Fastest Ride in History through the Heart of the Grand Canyon. “Crafting a tale as graceful and powerful as the natural wonder of which he writes...the books goes beyond your typical river porn, offering a wide appeal to everyone from history buffs and the Popular Mechanics set to environmentalists and outdoor enthusiasts. In fact, it would not be overblown to say The Emerald Mile deserved a spot on the bookshelf alongside such enduring classics as Cadillac Desert, Desert Solitaire and Encounters with the Archdruid. It's that good...Fedarko will have you poised on the edge of your seat like a high-sider at in Lava Falls." (Durango Telegraph book review)

Conservation

The Colorado Plateau and southeast Utah face many conservation challenges in the 21st century. During the course of our trip, we’ll talk about such issues as the (mis)management of public lands, industrial tourism, water shortages on the Plateau, the Colorado River Compact, ORV impacts, oil and gas development, invasive species, and efforts to protect Utah’s remaining wilderness.

We will also discuss the work that the Sierra Club and the Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance are engaged in. Since 1983, SUWA has been the only independent organization working full-time to defend America’s redrock wilderness from oil and gas development, unnecessary road construction, rampant off-road vehicle use, and other threats to Utah’s wilderness-quality lands.

In 2016 America celebrated the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service. During our trip, we’ll visit Canyonlands National Park. We’ll discuss how the NPS has changed over the last century and the difficulties it faces as it seeks to protect the parks, while rendering them accessible to a growing human population.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.