Teen Backpacking Yosemite's High Canyons and Lakes, Yosemite National Park, California

The Trip

Enjoy seven hiking days exploring the granite crags and sparkling lakes of Northern Yosemite and the Hoover Wilderness. Hike past seven idyllic lakes as we ascend through the Hoover Wilderness to reach the boundary of Yosemite National Park, just past Summit Lake. Walk through gorgeous Virginia Canyon and spend a rest day at Miller Lake, exploring off-trail peaks and swimming at the sandy lakeshore beach. Experience Matterhorn Canyon before climbing Burro Pass (10,650 feet) close to Matterhorn Peak (12,279 feet). Spend two evenings at the Finger Peaks Tarns (a series of small lakes) below the spectacular Sawtooth Ridge and participate in an optional climb to the top of Matterhorn Peak. Cross Mule Pass and descend down to Peeler Lake to spend the last night nestled below the peaks of Cirque Mountain before passing Barney Lake on our way to our exit trailhead at Twin Lakes.

Backpacking in Yosemite and the Hoover Wilderness affords us ample opportunities to swim in relatively warm lakes. We emphasize Leave No Trace wilderness ethics, share the responsibility of preparing meals, teach wilderness travel skills, and provide plenty of time to just have fun. This is a challenging coed trip designed for 14- to 17-year-olds who are in good physical condition and have some prior backpacking experience.

The Sawtooth Ridge lives up to its name due to its blade shape created by the sharpening action of glaciers on both the north and south sides. The white spires that make up the ridge are composed of both solid and fractured granite. Cirque basins can be found nestled high up on both sides of Sawtooth Ridge, many of which hold late-season snow or small glaciers. Our route takes us on a geological journey through U-shaped valleys carved by glaciers and overpasses where huge rivers of ice overflowed into the adjoining basin.

We graciously travel through the land where indigenous people lived for 10,000 years, the most recent being the Sierra Miwok. They spent the summer and early autumn hunting in the high country and trading with the Piute tribe of the Great Basin on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada. During the gold rush in 1848, settlers pushed out the indigenous populations to make room for mining and raising sheep.

Sierra Club leaders and assistants of youth-oriented outings are subject to additional leadership requirements. These requirements include undergoing criminal background checks and participating in child abuse recognition and prevention training. The most important aspect of any Sierra Club National Outing is the health and safety of each participant. Contact the trip leader if you have additional questions after you have read the complete trip description.

The itinerary described here should be taken as a general plan; the actual route and schedule may well be different. Both how far we get each day and where we camp depends on the weather, environmental factors (such as lingering snow, high stream flows, smoke from forest fires, etc.), how we feel, and other factors outside of our control. Flexibility is important.

Day 1: We meet at 3:00 p.m. at a Forest Service group campsite near Green Creek trailhead (7,980 feet) the afternoon before we begin our hike. The campsite is provided and arranged for by the leader. This gives everyone an opportunity to get acquainted and acclimated to the elevation. We will also do a gear check, and pack weigh-in. Dinner is provided.

Day 2: Following breakfast, we distribute group equipment and bear canisters. After everyone has packed their gear and a brief trail talk, we begin our hike past Green and East Lakes, Gilman Lake, and Hoover Lakes, to our first camp at Summit Lake (10,191 feet elevation). Today's hike is 8 miles with a 2,620-foot climb to this grass- and rock-fringed lake below Camiaca Peak.

Day 3: Continuing southwest, we immediately enter Yosemite National Park. The dark volcanic rocks of this area contrast sharply with the lighter granites on the divide between Virginia and Spiller canyons. On this day we join the community of thru-hikers along the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) as we reach our camp at Miller Lake (9,488 feet elevation) where we will stay for two nights exploring the area. On this day, we hike 8 miles, descending 1,500 feet down Virginia Canyon along the banks of Return Creek, then we climb up about 1,400 feet to reach the beach at Miller Lake!

Day 4: This is a layover day. We enjoy sleeping in a bit, swimming at the beach of Miller Lake, or hiking off-trail up to some of the high points of the mountains in the area. Mileage and elevation gain is at your discretion on this layover day as any hiking is optional. 

Day 5: After a short uphill stretch, we descend nearly 1,000 feet in two miles to the floor of Matterhorn Canyon. We leave the PCT and begin our ascent of this U-shaped glacial canyon, leading us to Burro Pass at 11,100 feet. We hike just past the pass to camp at the amazing tarns (small ponds carved by glaciers, 10,040 feet elevation) nestled in perhaps the most gorgeous area of the entire hike between the Finger Peaks, the Sawtooth Ridge, and just below the majestic Matterhorn Peak. The hike on this day is 8 miles with 2,714 feet of elevation gain.

Day 6: On our second layover day you will have the option of summitting Matterhorn Peak! Climbing up to the peak is considered a Class 3 hike. That means you will need to use your hands to climb some of the steep, rocky portions, but ropes are not necessary. We have done this climb before and will choose a safe and comfortable route to get you to the top. We will leave right after breakfast as it is an all-day affair. It is about a 4-mile round-trip, with 2,400 feet of elevation gain. For this day hike, you will only carry water and snacks and we will have lunch along the way.

Day 7: We descend Piute Creek within view of Sawtooth Ridge before climbing over Mule Pass (10,470 feet) and heading back into the Hoover Wilderness. After picking our way down the backside of the pass, we turn left onto the Peeler Lake Trail and climb up to our final camp at the beautiful Peeler Lake (9,515 feet elevation) sitting below the peaks of Cirque Mountain. Our hike today is about 8 miles with 2,100 feet of gain.

Day 8: Starting very early from Peeler Lake, we descend seven scenic miles and 2,800 feet to our exit at Twin Lakes. About halfway we encounter Barney Lake -- to the south are grand views of the cirque headwall, and to the east and southeast edges of the lake are steeply dropping polished granite walls. We may enjoy a final swim before hiking our final miles to the trailhead. Parents should be available to pick up their teens around noon.

Getting There

Our trip begins at 3:00 p.m. at a group campsite located near the end of Green Creek Road, which leaves Highway 395 five miles south of Bridgeport and 21 miles north of Lee Vining. The campground is 127 miles from Reno, 232 miles from San Francisco, and 366 miles from Los Angeles.

The leader will send out a roster to participants in advance of the trip to facilitate ride-sharing along with specific driving directions to the group campsite. Please don't make transportation arrangements until the leader confirms you as a trip participant. We also recommend that you do not plan to fly home on the last day of the trip, as we cannot guarantee to complete the trip at a specific time.

Accommodations and Food

The first trip meal is dinner on our first day. The last meal is lunch on the final day. The Sierra Club provides all meals and snacks. Vegetarians are welcome! Just let us know in advance so we can prepare your meals. Cooking and clean-up duties are shared by all members of the group on a rotating basis. All of our food will be carried in Sierra Club-provided canisters to protect the bears from our food.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is rated a 4 out of 5 (strenuous) and is designed specifically for teens. You must have the ability to carry your own gear (maximum weight of 20 pounds) plus 14-16 pounds of group gear. Ideally, teens should have some prior backpacking experience. But we are willing to take teens who are new to this activity. We will discuss a training and equipment preparation program that will promote success even for teens new to backpacking. Proper equipment, a positive team-oriented attitude, and adequate conditioning are essential for your personal enjoyment and the success of the group effort. We may have to cross snowfields that linger far into the summer and there are stream crossings. We backpack a total of about 50 miles. The daily on-trail mileage averages eight miles. For our hiking days, we spend 6-8 hours on the trail, including breaks. Our campsites are between 8,662 feet and 10,310 feet. The highest point on the trail is 11,000 feet when we cross Mule Pass, and Matterhorn Peak has an elevation of 12,280 feet.

Participants must be in good physical condition. Hiking, running, and cycling are good training activities. Adding a fully loaded backpack to your training hikes helps to build muscles specific to backpacking. An overnight backpack trip prior to our trip would be good preparation and give you a chance to test out your gear. Leader approval is required. Please complete and return the approval and other forms within 30 days of signing up for the trip. Failure to do so can jeopardize your participation. A parent or guardian must sign the participant agreement and medical forms. The leader will arrange a telephone or Zoom call to discuss the trip with each participant prior to approval. The leader is happy to discuss the trip and answer any questions you or your parents may have prior to sign-up or during the approval process.

The High Sierra is well known for its excellent summer weather; however, extended storms can occur at any time of the year. Afternoon thunderstorms, with sudden cloudbursts of wind, rain, hail, and even snow, are not uncommon. Be prepared for extremes; high temperatures during the day can exceed 80 degrees and fall into the 30s at night.

Equipment and Clothing

The Sierra Club provides food and group equipment including stoves, pots, bear-proof canisters, cooking utensils, fuel, etc. Keep your personal gear at or below 20 pounds so that, with the addition of 14-16 pounds of group equipment and food, your total pack weight is 35 pounds or less at the start of the trip. You are responsible to provide and carry your own camping gear, clothing, toilet paper, trekking poles, etc.

Your pack must have room for group equipment, as well as your personal gear. A backpack capacity of 60L or greater is required. Each participant's group load is one food canister (9” x 13”), plus additional non-food items such as a stove, fuel bottle, tarp, rope, pot set, or group water filter. This is roughly equal to the size of a full paper grocery sack. Tent sharing, to save weight, is encouraged and facilitated by the leader ahead of time. Pack weight is checked upon arrival at the group campsite to ensure your personal gear is 20 pounds or less.

Major equipment such as sleeping bags, packs, and tents can often be rented. The leader is happy to provide advice on suitable gear. We give each participant a new Sierra Club whistle (bring your own lanyard) that must be worn at all times except while in your sleeping bag. The leader sends a list of required and optional equipment after you sign up for the trip.

If you use a phone for taking pictures, be aware that phones have limited battery life. To extend the battery life, the device should be fully charged before trip departure and placed in airplane mode. It is recommended that the device not be used for other activities such as listening to music or reading unless you have a backup battery or charging stick. We are out of cell phone range during the majority of the trip; however, the leader carries a Garmin InReach communication device for emergencies.

References

Books:

For additional information on the Hoover and Yosemite high country prior to the trip:

• Morey, Kathy et al, Sierra North: Backcountry Trips in California's Sierra Nevada. Wilderness Press. A classic guide to hiking the Sierra from the Desolation Wilderness south to Yosemite National Park.
• Secor, R.J., The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails (published by The Mountaineers). An excellent general reference to trails, cross-country routes, and climbing routes in the Sierra Nevada.
• Laws, John M., The Laws Field Guide To The Sierra Nevada. An excellent field guide to plants, animals, etc.

Conservation

“It is easier to feel than to realize, or in any way explain, Yosemite grandeur. The magnitudes of the rocks and trees and streams are delicately harmonized, they are mostly hidden.” -- John Muir

Our outing travels within the Hoover Wilderness and Yosemite National Park. As stated in the Wilderness Act, a wilderness is recognized as an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain. Hoover Wilderness was established in 1964 with the passage of the Wilderness Act, and the wilderness within Yosemite was designated by Congress in 1984. Together, these wilderness areas comprise 832,845 acres, or about the size of the State of Rhode Island.

We have the privilege of hiking in some of the most pristine areas of this wilderness. Visitors like us have an impact on the wilderness. Our trip provides a good opportunity to consider why it’s important we minimize this impact and how we can do so by carefully observing the seven Leave No Trace principles. We may also discuss how wilderness practices have changed over the years and how they can be further improved while at the same time allowing wilderness experiences such as ours. Further, we plan to invite discussion of current efforts to protect wilderness and de facto wilderness lands.

While the area we’re visiting is protected, it remains vulnerable to outside threats such as climate change and pollution. Some areas adjacent to the Hoover Wilderness and Yosemite remain unprotected and face additional threats from poorly planned development and resource extraction. We have an opportunity on our outing to discuss such threats, the importance of large protected areas for habitat resilience, and what we can do to support work on these issues.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal opportunity provider and operates under permits from the Humboldt-Toiyable National Forest and Yosemite National Park.