Hiking and History in Southern England

The Trip

Dartmoor National Park provided many of the stunning locations for the filming of Spielberg’s 2012 blockbuster War Horse. This largely remote and inaccessible location also inspired Conan Doyle’s Sherlock Holmes adventure The Hound of the Baskervilles. A wild and lonely setting, Dartmoor is steeped in history, showing evidence of Bronze Age habitation through stone circles and standing stones 4,000 to 2,600 years ago to the mining of tin and granite later. The rolling moorland and hills topped by tors -- contortions of granite on the summits -- are flanked by wooded valleys, twisting, narrow lanes, and grey farmhouses, with their patchwork of green fields.

Sir Francis Drake -- sea captain, privateer, and navigator -- was born outside Tavistock, Devon. He was knighted by Queen Elizabeth I in April 1581 and was the first Englishman to circumnavigate the globe in his ship, the Golden Hind. Drake became mayor of Plymouth in September 1581 and four years later, under Drake’s watch, an Act of Parliament was given royal assent to allow fresh water from Dartmoor to be brought to Plymouth. In 1590 construction started on a leat (in-ground aqueduct) that was 17.5 miles long, six feet wide, and two feet deep; it was finished about one year later.

In September 1620, 102 passengers were chosen to travel aboard the Mayflower for America. A memorial stone commemorating their departure is inlaid into the dock at the Barbican, Plymouth.

From our base on the edge of Dartmoor, we will hike sections of Drake’s leat; visit Cotehele, the ancestral home of the Edgcumbe family, local contemporaries of Drake; experience remote sections of Dartmoor; and explore less traveled paths known only to locals and Dartmoor ponies. At the end of the day, we will enjoy the relaxed companionship to be found in traditional English pubs. A visit to Devon would not be complete without experiencing its Devonshire Cream Teas. There is evidence that clotted cream, the essential ingredient, was being made by the monks of Tavistock Abbey in the early 1300s.

Local ramblers will accompany us on several walks sharing their knowledge and personal experiences of life in rural England. Our coach will transport us to trailheads and bring us back to our hotel where we will be based for the duration of this trip. The following is our planned itinerary, but it could change due to weather conditions or other circumstances beyond our control.

Day 1: We'll gather in the late afternoon at our hotel and then walk to our restaurant for dinner and a chance to get acquainted.

Day 2: We meet after breakfast for our trip orientation and to answer last-minute questions. Today’s hike of 5.5 miles encompasses the moors surrounding Burrator Reservoir. The growing population of Plymouth and increasing demands on the fresh water supply led to the creation of Burrator Reservoir in 1891 -- 300 years after the construction of Drake’s leat. Flooding of this valley resulted in loss of sections of Drake’s leat, but parts feeding water to the reservoir are still working today. On a clear day, views from the top of Sheeps Tor are spectacular. Our reward for our first day of hiking is a scrumptious Devonshire Cream Tea accompanied by a talk by a volunteer member of the Dartmoor Search & Rescue team. Tonight you are free to relax, stroll through the market town and, if you are still hungry, have dinner on your own.

Day 3: Princetown: Passing by the infamous HM Prison Dartmoor, dating from 1809, we start our day with a tour of the Princetown Visitor Center, once home to Conan Doyle as he wrote The Hound of the Baskervilles. We then set off along the disused railway track passing North Hessary Tor and King’s Tor, heading toward Merrivale Quarry. London Bridge, formerly of London, England and now of Lake Havasu City, Arizona, was taken piecemeal to Merrivale Quarry to be trimmed before being transported and re-assembled in the USA. Close by the quarry, evidence of Bronze Age activity can be seen in the menhir, stone rows, and stones circles. Our eight-mile open moorland walk ends at our hotel, where we will freshen up before enjoying dinner.

Day 4: Cotehele: Home to the Edgcumbe family since 1353 and now owned by the National Trust, this Tudor house, perched high above the River Tamar, is decorated with tapestries, arms and armor, pewter, brass, and old oak furniture. A tour of the house and extensive kitchen gardens and woodlands may build up a need to visit the Barn Restaurant or the Edgcumbe tea room on Cotehele Quay. Tonight we have dinner at a 17th-century free-house, a pub not owned or controlled by a brewery and serving a wide variety of beers. This is a short walk from Cotehele.

Day 5: Horrabridge & Sampford Spiney: Our 6-mile circular walk explores an isolated part of western Dartmoor where the gradients are easy and the countryside unspoilt. A combination of traversing fields, climbing over stiles, and following quiet country lanes and pockets of common land are the theme for today. Stopping for a sack lunch, we’ll take some time to explore Sampford Spiney church, whose history dates back to 1257. Then onto Huckworthy Bridge, passing the site of the former 18th century Willsworthy Mine, which is renowned for producing some of the UK’s finest silver specimens. Dinner tonight is in a small village pub next to the River Walkham.

Day 6: Old Uncle Tom Cobley: We start with a visit to the remote village of Widecombe-in-the-Moor, best known for its annual fair and being the birthplace of the song “Widecombe Fair,” whose lyrics include "Old Uncle Tom Cobley and all." The 14th-century village church goes by the grand name of Cathedral of the Moor and is a particularly fine example of gothic-style architecture. Afterward, we transfer to the start of our 8-mile hike, following a section of the Two Moors Way toward a late Bronze Age settlement of 24 hut circles surrounded by a massive perimeter granite stone wall. The last stretch of our hike takes us to a pub that has served travelers since the middle of the 18th century, where we too will enjoy dinner.

Day 7: Giant’s Basin: Today’s 9-mile route includes remains of the past spanning some 3,500 years. Abandoned farms -- some evacuated and others demolished following the completion of Burrator Reservoir in 1895 and subsequent enlargement in 1928 -- include Middleworth and Deancombe. Onward to Eylesbarrow Tin Mine. Tinners were known to be streaming in the area in the 12th century while the earliest known reference to Eylesbarrow is 1671. Certain places on Dartmoor acquired a special sanctity amongst prehistoric peoples, and around 2500 B.C. they were erecting standing stones or menhirs, often associated with cairns containing stone coffins or kistvaens. The prehistoric remains at Drizzlecombe are among the finest on Dartmoor and include the tallest menhir on Dartmoor at 14 feet high. Tonight we dine at a 15th-century pub named after the oak tree, reputedly some 800 years old, growing on the village green.

Day 8: A Taste of Cornwall: Our 8-mile walk today starts with a 30-minute ferry ride from the Barbican in Plymouth where, in 1620, the Pilgrims finally departed for the New World aboard the Mayflower. An important naval port for many centuries, Plymouth has a selection of defenses to protect its port dating from the Bronze Age, through the 1650s to the 19th century. Our circular hike encompasses Rame Head Heritage Coast, passing a multitude of historical monuments as well as giving splendid views of Plymouth Sound. A short 10-minute ferry ride returns us to Devon and the Royal William Yard, a Grade 1 listed ex-Naval victualling yard, where we will enjoy dinner before returning to our hotel.

Day 9: Clapper Bridge: Crossing the East Dart River at Postbridge are two bridges: the 13th-century clapper bridge and an 18th-century granite bridge, right next to it. We’ll have the opportunity to use both bridges on today’s 7.5-mile circular walk. With stretches of moorland, a delightful river section at the start and finish, and exciting stepping stones at Laughter Hole, today’s hike provides fine examples of the wealth of variety to be seen on Dartmoor.

Day 10: Tavistock Canal: Walking from our hotel, we initially follow the River Tavy before joining the Tavistock Canal, which opened in 1817 to provide a link to Morwellham Quay on the River Tamar, where cargo could be loaded onto ships. Passing Crowndale Farm, birthplace of the future Sir Francis Drake, we follow the tow path under Shillamill Aquaduct before reaching Lumburn, where the canal meets the River Lumburn. From there we continue onto Mill Hill and circle back across fields and stiles to our start -- a total distance of about 8 miles. Returning to our hotel, we have time to relax before our farewell dinner.

Day 11: Our coach will arrive in the morning after breakfast to transport us to Plymouth, where we will say goodbye after our moorland adventures and immersion in the rich history of Devon.

Getting There

Our trip begins in the town of Tavistock and ends in the city of Plymouth. Getting to our starting point of Tavistock is the responsibility of each participant. The leader will provide additional information to registered participants. 

Accommodations and Food

We will be based in a comfy country hotel in a small market town on the edge of Dartmoor for the duration of this trip. Rooms are double occupancy with same-gender roommates arranged for those who are traveling solo. The trip price includes all breakfasts, a cream tea, and most dinners, many in historic pubs along our way. Vegetarian options are available at most locations. Lunch supplies can be purchased at local markets or sack lunches can be purchased from our hotel. Drinks (including bottled water and soft drinks) are not included in the trip price with the exception of breakfast where coffee, tea, and juices are included. You may choose to purchase snacks to enjoy while hiking.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is designed for the moderate active hiker. The route will vary in difficulty with walking distances between 4-9 miles and elevation gains up to 1,200 feet. The terrain is varied, from quiet country lanes to uneven rocky trails to grassy sheep paths to non-existent trails as we forge across open moorland. Some sections will be steep and others will be boggy. Agility is needed to climb stepladder stiles over stone walls and fences. As with all active trips, you will enjoy yourself much more if you are in good physical condition. If you have any questions regarding your abilities, please contact the leader before signing up for this trip. Throughout the trip there is the option to forego the day's hike and simply chill out at our hotel, relax, and explore the town and marketplace.

Equipment and Clothing

We can expect warm weather (by British standards!) of 45ºF to 57ºF, although on Dartmoor, elevation and the nearby coast can combine to produce wet and swiftly changing weather -- including fog and wind. Daypacks are needed to carry food, water, an extra sweater, rain pants, and waterproof jacket. Hiking poles are encouraged. Casual, comfortable clothing is key -- your leader will provide a detailed packing list prior to the trip.

References

• Spielberg, Stephen, War Horse. Watch this movie for previews of the scenery on Dartmoor.
• Sugden, John, Sir Francis Drake.
• Doyle, Conan A., The Hound of the Baskervilles.
• Dartmoor, Ordnance Survey Explorer Map – OL28
• http://www.dartmoor-npa.gov.uk/
• http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/sw/
• http://www.exeter-devon.co.uk/

Conservation

"Water, water everywhere, nor any drop to drink" - The ancient mariner Samuel Taylor Coleridge

We tend to think the availability of fresh water for drinking is a 21st-century issue. On this trip we will see firsthand the measures past generations took to obtain this most precious commodity. Distribution via leats following the contours of the land and apportioning by a one-inch hole in granite blocks is both ingenious and simple. However, climate change is taking a toll in the southwest of England. According to a study by the UK Met Office, within 40 years the average temperature is likely to increase by 4°F in the southwest and the average warmest summer day will increase by 6°F to be 88°F. It predicts that the region will have one of the highest annual temperatures in the UK and there will be an estimated 2.1-inch increase in winter precipitation.

We will discuss environmental and conservation issues related to water -- an extensive topic impacting nature and humankind everywhere in the world.

Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmentally understanding parallel concerns at home and abroad.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.