Hiking Japan's Ancient Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Trail

The Trip

The Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage is a fully guided inn-to-inn hike between the vibrant modern city of Osaka, the mountain temple community of Mt. Koyasan, and the Japanese Imperial shrine at Ise.

One of only two UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage routes in the world, The Kumano Kodo is a journey through a thousand years of Buddhist history on Japan's beautiful Kii Peninsula. We trek the Nakahechi Route on an ancient trail from the mountains to the sea, passing through rugged terrain of forest and valley and venturing deep into the landscape. We stay in family-owned inns in remote hamlets, sharing local homemade meals among fellow travelers after soaking in the route’s many natural hot springs.

This is a unique, challenging, uncommonly special experience that offers wild places, an opportunity to connect with an ancient and revered tradition, deep immersion in history and local culture, and a chance to visit remote and authentic communities tied to the spiritual heart of a beautiful land. We visit sacred temples and landmarks hidden within this verdant coastal range as we travel this remarkable trail through time.

Day 1: Osaka

Total walking: N/A

Meals: D

Our adventure begins in Osaka when the group meets at our hotel in the evening to get acquainted and to review the trip to come. We dine at a lively izakaya restaurant, getting a taste of Japan’s famous cuisine and bustling, bright, urban landscape before our journey toward the Kii Peninsula the following day.

Day 2: Osaka – Koyasan

Total walking: 7 miles, 4-5 hours

Meals: B, D

After breakfast we board the train for a journey of approximately 1.5 hours to Koyasan where we begin our walk, a 7-mile pilgrimage trail around the perimeter of the ascetic training ground of Koyasan. Originally established for women in 1872, the precipitous path offered women an opportunity to enjoy great views of the important mountain sites without needing to set foot in areas forbidden to them. We continue on to Koyasan’s Okunoin, an inner sanctum that includes the mausoleum to the founder of the Shingon Buddhist sect, Kobo-Daishi. The walking is a mix of up and downhill, slowly climbing toward our destination. Tonight we will stay as the original pilgrims did, in “shakubo” monastery lodgings, offering delicious shojin-ryori vegetarian temple cuisine and an introduction to the spiritual life at Koyasan.

Day 3: Koyasan – Tanabe – Takahara

Total walking: 2.3 miles, 2-3 hours

Meals: B, D

Before breakfast, those who wish may join early morning prayers at the adjacent temple. We have time to enjoy Koyasan’s beautiful temple grounds before transferring by vehicle to Takijiri-Oji, stopping for lunch on the way. We begin our exploration of ancient pilgrimage trails of the Kumano Kodo at Takijiri-Oji, where a short but steep climb to a ridge awaits us. We climb to the top at an easy pace. From there, the trail is much gentler for the rest of our walk as it follows the undulating ridges among breezy pines. Old Buddhist statues and home sites appear along the path as reminders of the old route. We complete the day’s hike by walking directly to the inn perched high up on a ridge in Takahara, where all the rooms have great views of the valley and mountains. The innkeeper is charismatic and well-traveled and the inn reflects the eclectic atmosphere of his worldly experiences.

Day 4: Takahara – Tsugizakura – Yunomine Onsen

Total walking: 7.7 miles, 5-6 hours

Meals: B, L, D

After breakfast we leave Takahara on foot heading higher into the mountains along the pilgrimage trail. We continue to pass by reminders of the old highway, including an ichirizuka distance marker, before descending to our lunch spot, which features local delicacies. Continuing on we crest the Hashiori-Toge pass after a short climb. Our descent of around 600 feet takes us along a cobbled path and staircase to Chikatsuyu, a small village set in a gorgeous valley alongside a lovely river. The isolated villages along this route are shrinking as younger generations migrate to the cities, leaving behind a dwindling elder population, empty schools, and the vestiges of past tradition. Our final stretch of the day takes us on a climb to Tsugizakura-Oji, famed for giant cedar trees and a thirst-quenching spring. From here we transfer by vehicle to Yunomine Onsen, where we stay for two nights. The onsen thermal hot spring baths found here are an important part of the pilgrimage tradition, as part of the purification rituals prior to visiting the grand Hongu Taisha Shrine, which we visit tomorrow.

Day 5: Yunomine Onsen – Hongu – Yunomine Onsen

Total walking: 6.9 miles. 5-6 hours

Meals: B, D

Following breakfast at our inn, we take a local bus to the beginning of today’s walk, which follows a ridge through verdant forests and isolated village communities. After many days in thick forest we get good views today. At Fushiogami pass we gain our first view of the giant torii shrine gate at Hongu Taisha. Our path descends to the Taisha. In contrast to the torii, which is an imposing structure towering 111 feet above us, the Taisha is composed of simple, elegant buildings that are seemingly at one with the surrounding forests. At the base of the Taisha is a small modern town with nice shops and a great modern visitor center with excellent exhibits, maps, Kumano Kodo artifacts, dioramas, and history. Depending on our reserves of energy, we either return to our accommodation at Yunomine Onsen on foot via the Dainichi-goe pass, or make the journey by private vehicle.

Day 6: Yunomine Onsen – Koguchi

Total walking: 7.5 miles, 5-6 hours

Meals: B, L, D

After breakfast we have time to freely explore Yunomine Onsen, a small village set in a beautiful narrow valley. Later in the morning we begin hiking and walk up to Hyakken-gura, which provides some of the most spectacular views of the tour. From here the trail continues on a forest track and eventually descends into Koguchi, an isolated village surrounded by mountains and rivers. When wet, the steep trails here may be subject to landslides, and there are old scars reminding hikers of what the weather can do to the landscape as this area often takes the brunt of typhoons. The trail exits the forest into a beautiful broad valley, and we are treated to fine views of the river and its large gravel banks, good for swimming on a hot day. Our accommodation tonight is the most unusual of the trip; a former junior high school that has been converted into a comfortable, if basic, lodge. The community here is trying to preserve itself by adapting to trekkers. It's one of many rural communities finding new ways to persevere, despite tough prospects and few young people to continue the area's farming legacy. It's a great setting to relax for the afternoon and watch hawks fish by the river cliffs. There's an adjacent park and campground with grassy places to rest, and deep river pools good for swimming.

Day 7: Koguchi – Nachi Taisha – Kii Katsuura

Total walking: 9 miles, 6-7 hours

Meals: B, L, D

We get an early start for today’s walk, which is the toughest of our journey and includes a 2.5-hour climb that rises 2,625 feet. This is a long, steep, unrelenting climb up a broken stone and boulder staircase, known as the Dogirizaka, or “belly-splitting slope.” The walk continues through forests and along ridges, ascending and descending, until we reach the top. There we can see over mountains to the Pacific Ocean. On our descent, handmade bridges take us across rivers on our way to Nachi Taisha shrine, Seiganto-ji temple, and the spectacular Nachi-no-Otaki waterfalls, which feature an uninterrupted 437-foot drop. It’s an amazing place to rest and explore, enjoy some ice cream, and appreciate the day’s accomplishment. We transfer by vehicle to Kii-Katsuura on the Pacific coast, where we stay the night in a modern hotel complex with onsen baths for us to enjoy yet again.

Day 8: Kii Katsuura – Shingu – Ise

Total walking: 4.4 miles, 3-4 hours

Meals: B, D

Today is a relaxed day compared with yesterday’s exertions. Nevertheless, those who wish to visit the local fish market (if it’s open) will get an early start to observe the largest tuna auction in Japan. The auction is dependent on the weather and holidays, which can preclude fishing boats leaving the harbor. We return to our hotel for breakfast, then take a local train to nearby Shingu, to visit Hayatama Taisha, the last of the three Kumano shrines. The final climb of our tour is a short but very steep ascent of Mt. Gongen to Gotobiki Iwa, a giant rock that is revered as a natural deity. We continue on by train to Ise, home to the most important Shinto shrine in Japan. After visiting the Geku, the impressive outer shrine, we check into tonight’s accommodation, concluding the day with our farewell dinner.

Day 9: Ise – Osaka

Total walking: 1.2 miles, 1 hour

Meals: B

Breakfast in our hotel is followed by a visit to the Naiku, Ise’s inner shrine. After the visit, we take a train back to Namba Station, Osaka where the tour ends around midday.

Getting There

Travel to and from where we meet in Japan is the responsibility of each participant. Japan is one day ahead of the United States, so travel must be planned accordingly. There are direct international flights into the Osaka Kansai Airport, as well as many flight options via Tokyo or other cities in Japan; or you could fly and then use Japan’s excellent train system. Consult the trip leader for options and suggestions. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader. Detailed travel and planning logistics will be explained and organized during conversations with the trip leader and in trip materials sent out after trip placement approval.

Accommodations and Food

Except for our night in Osaka, all accommodations are in traditional Japanese inns or small hotels with twin shared sleeping arrangements. This trip spans a variety of luxurious and rustic accommodations. Rooms are often spacious, but vary in size and style depending on our inn. On one or two nights we may have the option of Western-style beds, but primarily we’ll enjoy traditional sleeping arrangements on Japanese futon mattress sets. These are laid out on the tatami mat floor of our rooms. En suite toilets and sinks are available in most cases. As is typical throughout Japan, bathing facilities at our lodgings are shared, but separated by gender. Bathing facilities are sometimes private to inn guests and are sometimes commercial and open to the public. In our more remote and rustic locations we should expect to share toilets and bathrooms.

Typical Japanese breakfasts consist of salads, cooked fish, tofu, and soups. On some days, trip participants will be on their own to purchase lunch at a local market or restaurant, food stand, or convenience store. The meals provided in the tour are indicated in the daily itinerary. Dinners are a multi-course feast every night and always include some type of seafood or meat and many small dishes of local vegetables, soups, rice, and condiments. Vegetarians who eat no seafood or chicken can be accommodated, but these dietary requirements should be stated well in advance of the trip.

Luggage: Participants are limited to one item of luggage while on the tour, which we will send ahead each morning to arrive later at our accommodation. We hike with our daypacks during each day’s trek. Participants may choose to make independent arrangements with a secure and efficient luggage service to forward any extra baggage to the hotel at the end of the tour or to another destination in Japan. The cost for this service, not included in the trip price, is typically between $20-$40 USD per item of luggage.

Japanese Cultural Details: The Sierra Club strives to provide immersive, culturally sensitive experiences, where we travel and live within local traditional and modern norms and expectations both to be respectful to the place and people we are visiting, and to provide a rich travel experience. As this trip involves traditional bathing practices in group facilities, tattoos and other body art and significant piercings may not be a good fit for the cultural norms here and can potentially prevent the ability to use the baths at our inns. Participants should direct any questions to the trip leader to go over details.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is suitable for eager, fit hikers unfazed by rough terrain and changing conditions. The Kumano Kodo Trail is a rugged, often steep route through the coastal mountains. While the mileage is moderate, the elevation gains and losses are challenging. Switchbacks and graded trails are not the norm here, with trails often taking a more direct route up and down. This route changes often throughout a day’s walk. A single day may involve a long rocky staircase of ancient stone steps, soft pine-strewn paths on breezy ridgetops, and a wet descent down eroded cuts of slippery moss-covered cobbles. Next we may find ourselves walking through the manicured lanes of villages and curated temple grounds, only to plunge back into the forest to climb up yet another ridge. Every day we’ll experience a variety of terrain, conditions, and both steep ascents and descents. The maximum elevation gain in one day is 3,550 feet, and the maximum elevation descent is 3,100 feet. This route crosses the Kii peninsula, one of the wettest regions of Japan. In addition to a good baseline of strength and balance, a strong conditioning and hiking program is necessary to ensure that you will have a good trip. 

Equipment and Clothing

Good quality hiking apparel, rain gear, sturdy boots with ankle support, a day pack, and some type of convenient hydration system are among the essential items you’ll need to enjoy this trip. Because of the uneven and often wet terrain, trekking poles are highly recommended. A detailed equipment list will be sent to participants upon approval.

References

Conservation

Since its founding in 1892, The Sierra Club has worked to preserve and restore the natural environment we all share on this planet. Thousands of grassroots-level volunteers spearhead our efforts to conserve and sustain resources, both in our own backyards and on a global scale. Through direct experience in the outdoors, Sierra Club outings enable participants to better understand, advocate, and participate in the environmental conservation goals of the Club.

Like many industrialized nations, Japan has an uneven conservation history and a mixed record in safeguarding its environment. Japan imports the majority of its energy resources with oil and coal, and is heavily invested in nuclear power. Yet Japan also has one of the most efficient waste management recycling systems in the world, a cutting-edge renewable energy technology sector, and a cultural history that both dominates nature for an industrial end as well as venerates the natural world. A land of contrasts, Japan engages conservation with similar diversity, as we will see. Through discussion and observation we’ll experience how this populous nation deals with modern hyper-consumption as well as the efficiencies of urban development, while facing a changing rural demographic and shrinking population.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.