Hiking the Painters Path from Inn-to-Inn, Germany and Czech Republic

The Trip

The Elbe Sandstone range is an area of high table mountains, rocky promontories, and steep cliffs, divided by the Elbe River (Labe in Czech). The Painters Path traces the steps of early romantic artists who frequented the area in the 19th Century. The Saxon Switzerland and Bohemian Switzerland National Parks are named in honor of nostalgic Swiss painters who were reminded of home. We’ll follow the footsteps of these and other artists up and down the sandstone and granite mountains, stopping at dramatic overlooks, fortresses and palaces, and picturesque villages. Strolling through forests and across meadows provides a respite from climbing and descending. Ferry boats will carry us across, up, and down the Elbe River. Local public transport will take us to some trailheads, and we will ride the historic Kirnitzschtalbahn, in service for over a century, through a serene valley.

Day 1: We meet at our hotel in the lively Dresden Neustadt (new town) for dinner and orientation.

Day 2: Morning begins with a guided tour of the city of Dresden, known as “Florence on the Elbe”, which was rebuilt from the ashes of WW II and includes famous sights including the restored Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), a cathedral, opera house, and palace. After lunch we’ll ride the local train to Bad Schandau, a riverside resort.

Day 3: The Bohemian Switzerland National Park is home to Pravcicka Brana, the largest natural stone arch in Europe. We arrive in Hrensko, Czech Republic, by local train and hike to the arch. After we hike and have lunch there, we cruise in a small boat through the deep Kamenice River gorge back to Hrensko, and then to our hotel. 11 miles.

Day 4: A ferry crossing takes us to our next trailhead. Steep ascents on forest paths via steel staircases and ladders lead us to the Schrammsteine rocks for expansive views. The Affenstein trail takes us to the Lichtenhainer waterfall and our return trip is via the historic Kirnitzschtalbahn tram. 9 miles.

Day 5: The National Park Center in Bad Schandau introduces us to the nature and culture of the Saxon Switzerland area with interactive exhibits and activities. The afternoon is free to explore the town: a recommended landmark is the stone Johanniskirche church showing high-water marks from river floods, the Toskana Therme baths, and the Personenaufzug elevator up the mountain and hiking down. Dinner is on our own tonight to take advantage of the multiple offerings.

Day 6: A short bus ride takes us to the Brandstufen, a series of more than 800 wooden and stone steps to the “Balcony of Saxon Switzerland” which will reward you with expansive views. We continue to Castle Hohnstein before descending into deep forested ravines, later passing the Amsel lake and arriving at our riverside hotel in the spa town of Rathen. 9 miles.

Day 7: We ascend the famous Bastei Rocks and bridge, 300 meters above sea level, overlooking the Elbe valley. Crossing the Elbe by ferry at colorful Wehlen, our trail goes over the Rauenstein rock formation, then to the town of Königstein, passing the towering fortress Königstein(tomorrow’s starting point) before returning by train to Rathen. 11 miles.

Day 8: Returning to Königstein, we tour the fortress and then hike to the renowned 42-meter-high pinnacle Barbarine and the summit of the Pfaffenstein for more panoramic views. The Muselweg trail leads to our hotel in the small town of Gohrisch. 5 miles.

Day 9: The final hiking day takes us over the Gohrisch mountain and Papststein, both 450 meters high. We’ll pass the Kleinhennersdorf caves and walk through the Liethen Valley to Krippen, where we will ride back to Gohrisch. 6 miles.

Day 10: A train ride returns us to Dresden for a city tour and a visit to the “Glass Factory” where we’ll see electric Volkswagens assembled. The afternoon is free to tour museums, enjoy a steamboat ride on the Elbe, or take in the entertainment of the Dresden Neustadt neighborhood. Dinner is on our own tonight; Dresden has a wide array of choices.

Day 11: A short train ride and walk leads us to Radebeul for a visit to Wackerbarth Palace, a vineyard tour, and wine tasting. At our farewell dinner we’ll share our experiences and bid a fond “Auf Wiedersehen”.

Day 12: After breakfast, we depart. The Dresden Neustadt train station is a short walk; the airport is a 15-minute train ride from the station.

Getting There

Dresden is a major city with excellent air and rail connections. Most major airlines fly from the US to Dresden with one or two stops in Europe. We will meet at our hotel, which is a short walk from the Dresden-Neustadt rail station. Plan to arrive at least a day early to cope with jet lag, possible luggage delays, and to enjoy the local area.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Our urban and resort hotels are rated at 3 and 4 stars. Some are within sight of the Elbe River. Same-gender roommates will be assigned to those traveling alone. All meals except one dinner are included, either at the hotels or in restaurants featuring local specialties. Vegetarian options are offered. Extensive breakfast buffets with a variety of meats, cheeses, fruits, cereals, eggs, spreads, and bread and rolls offer a wide choice of items. On hiking days we are provided with bag lunches typically including one or two rolls with fillings, fruit, and perhaps some chocolate; other lunches are in local restaurants.

Trip Difficulty

This is a trip for seasoned hikers accustomed to hiking up to 10 miles a day over often steep and rocky trails, with major ascents and descents. The Elbe Sandstone range consists of table mountains and rocky promontories. There are sections with steep rock or wooden steps, even metal stairs and near-vertical ladders which can be slippery when wet. Trails may skirt sheer hillsides or pass between narrow rock passages.

Equipment and Clothing

It can rain a lot in September. Meadow areas can be wet, so waterproof boots are a must. A two-piece waterproof rain suit, Gore-Tex or equivalent, is also necessary to keep warm and dry. The leader will make other suggestions about clothing in more detailed letters, listing what you may need for daytime and nighttime activities. Trekking poles are essential for added stability on potentially wet and slippery surfaces.

References

Painters Path official site: Malerweg - Sächsische Schweiz: Malerweg (saechsische-schweiz.de)

Saxon Switzerland official site: Saxon Switzerland, (Saxony) Germany (saechsische-schweiz.de)

Saxon Switzerland National Park Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz (nationalpark-saechsische-schweiz.de)

Bohemian Switzerland National Park Oficiální webové stránky NP České Švýcarsko a CHKO Labské pískovce (npcs.cz)

Conservation

The Saxon and Bohemian Switzerlands show the impact of centuries of human activity, though recently bark beetles and acid rain have damaged many trees. Wildfires have seriously affected the area in the last few years. Efforts are underway to re-forest. A park ranger will accompany us on one day to explain these efforts. Wildlife have also been reintroduced, including the elusive lynx.