The Magnificent Canadian Rockies, Alberta

The Trip

On the far westerly edge of Alberta are two obscure passes teetering on the Continental Divide. They sit just barely above 7,700 feet, yet are still above treeline by 400 feet. These passes offer spectacular vistas of the Canadian Rockies and the adjoining areas of British Columbia. From these passes you will see the Palliser River Valley laid out from north to south, revealing its hidden secrets of hanging glaciers and the jagged peaks of the Royal Group. Both North and South Kananaskis passes will offer us these incredible views. Our two layover days, one near each respective pass, will offer us incredible day hikes with amazing vistas, all without the need for supplemental oxygen. Our world-class day hike up to Northover Ridge offers unparalleled views and vistas. In case this isn’t enough, we will have the opportunity to take a day hike out to the edge of Haig Glacier. If you’ve never seen a high-mountain glacier sprawled between distant peaks, with its lateral and terminal moraines, then this is the trip for you.

This area is home to Peter Lougheed Provincial Park and is located in the heart of Kananaskis Country (it sounds as it's spelled). K Country -- as the locals refer to it -- was established in 1977, as a space to provide Albertans with an additional recreation area and to help relieve the congestion in the national parks. This 10,000-acre parcel lays southwest of Calgary. It is bordered by Banff National Park to the north and British Columbia on the west. The Continental Divide also runs through this park, and this is where we will be spending the majority of our time. The ever-present jagged peaks, as well as numerous streams, lakes, and glaciers will be our constant distraction as we hike along some rough and sketchier trails. The Canadian Rockies has an amazingly lush environment. Wildflowers of all sizes and varieties cover the alpine meadows and miniature alpine plants dot the scree fields. The park is also home to a variety of wildlife, which includes mountain goats, deer, caribou, moose, black and grizzly bears, as well as numerous small animals and birds. Peter Lougheed Provincial Park is truly one of the hidden gems of the Canadian Rockies!

Weather and unforeseen factors can influence this or any trip. Participants should consider obtaining trip insurance to cover such things or the need for evacuation in case of medical emergency.

Note: Due to Park Service rules, backcountry permits cannot be obtained until May 12. This means that final trip dates cannot be confirmed until mid-May. Slight schedule changes, therefore, may be needed if specific dates are unavailable.

Additionally, the below list of day hikes is tentative. They are all subject to weather and trail conditions, as well as the ability of the group. Permitting can also affect our itinerary. The leaders expect you to have an open mind to changes due to weather, other conditions, or the needs of the group.

Day 1: We will provide a van shuttle from Calgary airport or a nearby hotel, departing Sunday morning at 8:30 a.m. We will have a picnic lunch (the first meal of the trip) en route to the park. We'll have an easy day of 4.5 miles, with only 330 feet gain in elevation, on a well-traveled trail. Maybe we’ll get to camp early enough to take in a scramble. Or just relax in camp.

Day 2: We’ll hike up 5 miles with a 1,600-foot gain in elevation, as we set up camp for two nights at Turbine Canyon.

Day 3: Layover day. Unencumbered by heavy packs, we’ll day hike to Haig Glacier. Four miles round-trip and 1,300 feet elevation gain. Considering the views we’ll have, you’ll be amazed that we’re only at 8,300 feet. Your lungs will be pretty happy.

Day 4: We’ll get up early and take a 2.5-mile round-trip day hike up to North Kananaskis Pass. With only a gain of 420 feet, this will be our easiest hike yet, with some of the most incredible views to date. The Palliser Valley and the northern part of the Royal group, plus at least nine other named peaks, are all within easy eyesight. We’ll need to return by lunch, break camp, and head back down the same five-mile stretch that we did two days earlier. With only a 1,600-foot descent and lighter packs, we’ll easily get back to our camp at Forks before evening.

Day 5: We’ll break camp early and head out for our ascent to Three Isle Lakes. It will be steep and short as we climb 1,300 feet in less than two miles. We’ll set up our camp and head out for a day hike to South Kananaskis Pass and Beatty Lake. This five-mile round-trip day hike, with a gain of only 850 feet, will keep our legs warmed up. Our eyes should be adjusting to more alpine views, and yet another angle of Palliser Valley and the Royal Group. 

Day 6: Layover day. You can lounge around the lake, fish if you’re prepared, or explore with us as we hike an out-and-back on a part of the Northover Ridge Route. This 6-plus-mile round-trip hike with a 1,300-foot gain in elevation will be our most challenging yet, while offering the most spectacular views on our trip!

Day 7: On our 8.5-mile hike out, we’ll descend 2,000 feet, and connect back up with our starting trailhead. Lunch will be the last meal of the trip. All too soon, we will be shuttling back to the airport or a nearby hotel.

Getting There

Flying into Calgary International Airport (airport code YYC) is the simplest. Since the relatively obscure location of Peter Lougheed Provincial Park makes the use of public or private transportation to the trailhead difficult, the trip cost includes a van shuttle from the airport to the trailhead and back. You will probably need to arrive the night before the trip and stay in Calgary again the night after. You are also welcome to meet us at the trailhead.

Accommodations and Food

We will be camping at organized backcountry campgrounds and in established tent sites. The food and commissary gear will be divided up among all the participants prior to departure. All meals will be provided from lunch on day one through lunch on day seven. Metal bear lockers are at all backcountry sites, which eliminates the need to carry bulky bear canisters. Picnic tables located at all of our backcountry camps are another added luxury and convenience.

We will provide water purification including chlorine-based chemicals for treating drinking water. Plan to work together to make camp, prepare, and clean up meals. The trip leaders have guided many trips and really like to cook and to eat, so count on interesting, varied, and nutritious meals. There will be plenty of food. If participants wish, they can bring their own additional between-meal snacks. We will do our best to accommodate vegetarians and medical dietary restrictions. Those with challenging restrictions may be asked to bring or prepare some of their own food to supplement group food. Please contact the leader if you require accommodation.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is rated Moderate (M). We will attempt to cover 4-10 miles each day, with elevation changes of 2,000 feet on some days. Some of the trails are well-maintained mountain trails; others will be rugged, steep, and rocky. We will be camping around 6,000-feet elevation the first night, but we'll rarely be camping above 7,600 feet. Even though it will be summer, bring clothing that protects you from wind, sun, cold, rain, and yes, even snow.

Even though this trip is moderate, there will be some very strenuous days as we gain nearly 2,000 feet in elevation. You will need to be in good shape prior to the trip. While there is no technical climbing, you should feel comfortable climbing over boulders and using your hands to get over passes while carrying a daypack. Trip participants may also encounter a bit of exposure, which is a nice way of saying there is nothing but air below you. We are not doing any dangerous climbing, or any climbing that will require ropes or other technical equipment.  Good balance as well as sure-footedness is essential for your safety. We will go slowly when necessary, and no one will be rushed through difficult sections of the hike.

Backpacking in and of itself is difficult, and parts of this trip are more difficult than many others. Plan to come to the trailhead in good shape. Pack weight can be a demanding factor that will slow even experienced hikers. We’ll be starting out at 6,000 feet, which can be difficult for some people in the beginning. To fully enjoy this trip, participants should engage in a program of regular cardiovascular exercise. You're also asked to come equipped with a flexible and positive attitude, as well as a healthy sense of humor.

We will be traveling in bear country. Grizzly and black bears are unpredictable, and, in very rare circumstances, can be dangerous to people. Your trip leader will show you how to minimize the probability of having a dangerous encounter with bears, and, in the very unlikely event that one occurs, how to protect yourself and your fellow trip members. Please be completely frank when writing to the leader regarding your experience and physical condition. While this is not a trip for beginners, strong beginners with good balance (and good humor) and a commitment to go out for a weekend or two before the trip should feel free to apply. 

Equipment and Clothing

All group gear, cooking and water purification equipment, and camp tarp(s) will be provided. We will have a group first-aid kit for emergencies. However, you will need a personal first-aid kit, prescription medications, and OTC items like Band-Aids, aspirin, ibuprofen, etc. Participants must bring their own standard backpacking gear: pack, broken-in boots, tent, sleeping bag, raingear, and clothing.

Temperatures can range from the 40s F at night to 80s F in the daytime. As in any mountain environment, temperatures can drop significantly anytime, day or night. Summers tend to have clear days, and afternoon showers are infrequent. A weather front from the Pacific Northwest can tend to bring extended wet weather, but it is not typical. A good two-piece waterproof rain suit (not a poncho) is required, and gaiters are highly recommended. You will want quick-drying synthetic clothing that can be layered.

Detailed equipment and gear lists will be provided to participants after they are accepted for the trip. With some advance planning, most gear can be rented on an individual basis. Please contact the trip leader if you have any questions.

Each participant will carry 12-15 pounds of group gear and food which will be divided up each day with each person carrying their share. A good weight to shoot for in your personal gear is 22-24 pounds. Allow space in your pack equal to a brown paper grocery sack. Tent sharing will be encouraged to minimize our impact on this fragile alpine environment, lessen our pack weight and maximize participants we can have under our permit. The permitting formula restricts our number of tent pads, and we are required to camp on them. Not all tent pads will readily accommodate two solo tents even if some stakes are shared.

You will need a passport for travel to Canada. Non-U.S. citizens must have a U.S. re-entry visa and Canadian visas where applicable.

References

Maps:

• Gem Trek Publishing, Kananaskis Lakes, scale 1:50,000

Books:

• Daffern, Gillean, Kananaskis Country Trail Guide.
• Galdd, Ben, Handbook of the Canadian Rockies. A field guide to flora, fauna, and geology.

Websites:

• http://www.tpr.alberta.ca/parks/kananaskis/parks_lougheed.asp
• http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/height/#Map (click on link and download map)
• http://people.uleth.ca/~holzmann/photos/RockyMtns_LawsonLake/MaudeLake_BeattyGlacier_fireweed.jpg
• http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/jgt/kananaskis/index.html

Conservation

We will be traveling and visiting in a World Heritage site. The entire Canadian Rockies Park system is a part of this site. The World Heritage List recognizes that some places are of sufficient importance, either natural or cultural, to be the responsibility of the international community as a whole. Member countries pledge to care for World Heritage sites in their territory and to avoid deliberate measures that could damage World Heritage sites in other countries. As such, the World Heritage List serves as a tool for conservation. We will discuss the importance and impact this designation has on the selected locations.

We’re all aware of the impact of global warming. One can’t help but see the dramatic effect it has than in the glacial areas of the Canadian Rockies that we’ll be visiting. Glaciers in Alaska and neighboring Canada -- with a combined area of approximately 90,000 square kilometers (roughly 35,000 square miles) and accounting for about 13 percent of mountain glaciers on Earth -- have thinned substantially. Over the last 40 years, thinning has been on the order of 50 to 100 meters (several hundred feet) at lower elevations of glacier occurrence, and about 18 meters (60 feet) at higher elevations. We’ll be discussing how each of us can positively contribute to this global crisis.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from Parks Canada.