Natural History of Arches and Island in the Sky, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, Utah

The Trip

Before aerial photography and satellite images, southeastern Utah was a blank space on maps.  The confluence of the Green and Colorado rivers, plus the maze of canyons formed by their myriad tributaries, left explorers dazed and confused.  We will become modern-day explorers as we hike, climb, and scramble through the redrock wonders of Arches and Canyonlands national parks.

We begin our adventure in the Island in the Sky section of Canyonlands, so called because this high mesa wedged between the Green and Colorado Rivers stands 1,000 feet higher than the surrounding terrain.  The main feature is Upheaval Dome -- some argue it's is an eroded salt bubble, while others say it was created by a meteorite.  We'll spend four days exploring this and the arches, odd rock formations, and panoramic overlooks that define Island in the Sky.

Moving on to Arches National Park, we'll squeeze in as many of the 2,400 natural arches in the park as possible on our four days there.  We'll see how each arch has its own unique personality on several short hikes.  The highlight of our visit will be our reserved, ranger-led hike to the Fiery Furnace, named for the flaming glow of the sandstone at dusk. We'll thread a labyrinth of narrow canyons, fins, and boulders in this fragile, highly regulated area.

This outing has a natural history focus and a professional naturalist will accompany us throughout the trip.  Learn how this bizarre scenery was formed and how this ecosystem supports a wide variety of plants and wildlife.  We'll discuss activities outside the parks that threaten views and air quality and consider the difficulty of overcoming the local mindset when it comes to preserving southern Utah's riches of scenic landscapes.  So release the inner explorer in you and come out and play in this natural wonderland.

Day 1: Arrive in the early morning at Canyonland's Island in the Sky Visitor Center for an orientation. Then we'll start exploring the plateau with hikes to springs, to panoramic views, and up a slickrock butte to Ancestral Puebloan granaries. Later, we'll set-up camp for the next three days.

Days 2-4: We'll hike in every corner of Island in the Sky (including Upheaval Dome and Mesa Arch); get a taste of the White Rim Road; and enjoy views of White Rim, the La Sal, and Henry Mountains. Each evening, we'll return to our campsite.

Day 5: After packing up camp, we'll drive to Arches National Park for a stroll through Park Avenue's natural skyscrapers and marvel at Balanced Rock.  On an afternoon hike, we'll get up close and personal to at least five arches, including the tallest in the park.  Later, we'll head to our campground for the opportunity to see three more arches and set-up camp for next three days.

Days 6-7: We'll spend three hours on the reserved, ranger-led hike through the Fiery Furnace –- a popular convoluted area of steep-walled canyons, weird-shaped rocks, crevasses, fins, arches, and bridges that glow at sunset.  We'll also hike to world-famous Delicate Arch.  We'll tackle the Park's longest, most difficult hike through Devils Garden to see at least seven more arches, including long, spindly Landscape Arch.

Day 8: After packing up camp and driving eight miles on dirt road suitable for any vehicle, we'll hike to massive Tower Arch between the austere formations of the Marching Men and Klondike Bluffs.  We'll eat lunch under the arch, enjoying views to the snow-covered La Sal Mountains. The trip ends upon return to the trailhead.

Getting There

We'll meet at Canyonlands National Park at the Island in the Sky Visitor Center at 9:00 a.m. on day one.  The nearest town is Moab 32 miles away and there is no public transportation to the park.  The closest airports to fly into would be Grand Junction, Colorado (200 miles and over a three-hour drive away) or Salt Lake City (320 miles and over a five-hour drive away).  You should plan to arrive at least a day early and stay in Moab to arrive at the meeting place on time.  You may also wish to see some of southern Utah's other scenic wonders.  Rental car sharing and carpooling are strongly recommended and a future departure bulletin will include driving directions and a roster of participants for arranging transportation.  Please make return flight reservations for May 26 or later and do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We will spend the first four nights at a developed campground in Canyonlands National Park and the next three nights at a group campsite in Arches National Park.  Amenities include tables, restrooms, and fire rings.  There is piped water at Arches, but water is not available at Canyonlands so you will need to bring enough for your own personal use. 

All meals are included from lunch on day one through lunch on day eight.  A high-energy, nutritious diet is planned with lots of fresh fruits and vegetables, with meat on the side to accommodate vegetarians.  Please let the leaders know as far in advance as possible if you have any other food restrictions.  Trip members will be divided into cook crews to prepare and clean-up meals a couple times during the trip.  All stoves, fuel, and other group commissary equipment will be provided.  

Trip Difficulty

Although this is a base camp trip, the focus is on beautiful and challenging dayhikes.  You will only have to carry what you need for the day in a daypack that weighs up to 15 pounds.  Hikes will be up to 11 miles long and involve up to 1,500 feet of elevation gain.  Trails traverse slickrock benches with exposure, sandy washes, and steep, rocky sections that include some boulder scrambling.  Water is unreliable so you will need to carry up to four quarts or liters.  Any hike is optional and there are short hikes within walking distance of our campgrounds for anyone not desiring to do the longer daily hike.  A program of physical conditioning will assure you'll be able to do all the planned hikes.  Recommendations for this will be detailed in a future bulletin.  You should be comfortable camping for a week in a tent.

Equipment and Clothing

A detailed equipment list will be sent to all approved participants, but basically you will need to provide your own personal camping gear.  This includes a tent you'll be comfortable in for a week; sleeping bag (30-degree rating) and pad; good rain gear; hiking boots that are water-proofed, well-broken in, and preferably all leather; layers of clothing for a wide range of temperatures; and hiking poles for rough, steep trails.  Group cooking and camping gear will be provided.

References

Maps:

• Island in the Sky District: Canyonlands National Park, UT – National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Maps
• Arches National Park, UT – National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Maps

Books:

• Schneider, Bill, Hiking Canyonlands and Arches National Parks.

Websites:

• Canyonlands National Park: www.nps.gov/cany
• Arches National Park: www.nps.gov/arch
• Sierra Club Utah Chapter: www.utah.sierraclub.org
• Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance: www.suwa.org
• Great Old Broads for Wilderness: www.greatoldbroads.org

Conservation

Recognition of southern Utah's diverse landscapes -– from slot canyons to rolling red rock domes to sculptured rock formations to sandstone arches -- has been exemplified in the number of national parks spread across the area.  President Clinton filled in more of the gaps with the creation of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument in 1996, but more needs to be done.  Nearly six million acres of wilderness-quality land is still not protected, but the historical and cultural values of many of Utah's residents make this an uphill battle.  Every year for over 25 years, America's Red Rock Wilderness Act has been submitted to Congress to protect these lands.  The Sierra Club is also waging a campaign for the designation of Greater Canyonlands National Monument to create a buffer zone around the national park to keep coal and other polluting industries from threatening its integrity. All this will be discussed on the trip along with learning and practicing Leave No Trace principles to lessen our own impact.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and will operate under a permit from Arches & Canyonlands national parks.