Pampas, Andes, and Waterfalls in Argentina

The Trip

The second-largest country in South America, Argentina boasts of every geographical landscape imaginable. There are high mountain regions in the north, fertile grasslands in the Pampas, excellent wine growing regions at the foothills of the Andes, and glaciers in the Patagonia. Our primary focus will be the northwest region, in the states of Salta and Jujuy. This region, cradled by the Andes, is full of colors, landscapes, and people, and is flanked by Altacama on the west, Bolivia in the north, and exuberant forests in the east. The geological formations hold fossils of ancient mammals, of disappeared dinosaurs and plants that convey the evolution of nature. It also holds about 60 percent of bird species found in Argentina. We will also visit other parts of the country, as described below.

Our trip begins in capital city of Buenos Aires to enjoy the contrast between a sophisticated European atmosphere and the charm of a Latin American city. We will travel by boat along the Parana river to Tigre City, observing lifestyles of the people that inhabit it and watching birds and other wildlife. Not far from the city, in the Pampas, we will stay in an estancia, a colonial style mansion, with an opportunity to go bird watching, on horseback or in a horse carriage, and an introduction to the gaucho way of life.

Our next stop is the northwest city of Salta, ensconced in the valley below the Andes and accessible to areas of stunning beauty such as the hills of seven colors, arrow-shaped canyons and other bizarre rock formations, salt flats in the upper regions, and great high-altitude vineyards to the west. We will travel by private coach to Cafayate, a picturesque village known for its vineyards of Torrentes grapes, with the second-most-famous wines after Mendoza; hike in Las Conchas Gorge, where the landscape changes from a dry river bed to a canyon with steep walls of fanciful shapes; and travel along the foothills of the Andes to Colome and visit its well-known winery as well as the James Turrel Museum.

On the way back to Salta we will hike in Los Cardones National Park with a chance to see the majestic condors, and experience the arid, scenic landscape, including unusually large native cacti reminiscent of the American Southwest.

Our adventure will then take us northward along the Humahuaca Ravine to Tilcara to visit a pre-Columbian aborigine stronghold, and hike to Gargarga del Diablo, the Devil’s Throat, its canyon and waterfall. Our next stop will be Salinas Grandes, the salt plain at 11,500 feet altitude, where we will observe how salt is extracted at this elevation. Staying at an estancia north of Salta, we will capture the authentic lifestyle of a working estate and learn about northern Argentina’s rich traditions. A brief city tour of Salta and its museum will be included, time permitting.

Finally, we will fly to Puerto Iguazu to see the world-famous waterfalls. There are many circuits along which we will have an opportunity to observe the amazing dance of water as it hurtles down several hundred feet. Our trip will end here.

The following is the planned daily schedule. The itinerary is subject to change depending on weather or trail conditions. This may be done at short notice, or no notice.

Day 1: We begin our adventure in Buenos Aires, a grand city whose European heritage provides a quiet charm in the bustling atmosphere. You will be met at the airport and transferred to our hotel for some rest and lunch on your own. After lunch we will have a city walk with our guide, visiting typical neighborhoods such as La Boca, which retains the spirit of its Italian immigration; Puerto Madero with its big green spaces and exclusive avenues; and Ricoleta, which is marked by its French architectural style and cultural activity. Time permitting, we will see the Colon Theater, the National Congress, and the Presidential Palace. In the evening, we will have our welcome dinner, our first meal together, at a local restaurant. Overnight in city hotel.

Day 2: After breakfast we will embark on a full-day birdwatching tour along the Parana river to Tigre City. The delta of the river is crisscrossed with a multitude of islands separated by small rivers and brooks; it is like a city that exists on the river. We will observe how people live here, with their churches, schools, shops and restaurants, and return to Buenos Aires by the late afternoon. Our dinner will be at a restaurant with a live performance of the tango, a sensual dance Buenos Aires is famous for. Overnight in city hotel.

Day 3: Today we depart after breakfast for our first experience of an estancia, a colonial mansion surrounded by farms and woods, like a ranch. Our estancia, El Ombu, is historical in the region of San Antonio de Areco, birthplace of the gaucho tradition. Arriving in time for lunch in an outdoor setting, we will meet our birding guide who will help us identify the local bird population. We will have an opportunity to either ride horses or horse carriages as we amble through the farmland, learning about the migratory cycles of various species. A lively discussion about the bird conservation programs carried out in Argentina will follow. Overnight in estancia.

Day 4: With adios to the estancia after breakfast, we transfer to the domestic airport in Buenos Aires for our flight to Salta. Upon arrival, we will drive in our private coach along the fertile Lerma valley, passing towns such as Cerrillos, La Merced, and El Carril, dedicated to the cultivation of land. It is an important tobacco-growing area. Traveling through Las Conchas Gorge, we will have our first exposure to bizarre shapes of rock formations like the Monk, the Toad, the Devil’s Throat, and the Castle. These were created by wind and water erosion over millennia. We will enjoy a boxed lunch on the way, and arrive in the picturesque village of Cafayate by the evening. Dinner is on our own in one of the many local restaurants surrounding the wine museum and lively plaza. Overnight in hotel.

Day 5: After breakfast we will hike in Las Conchas Gorge. Quebrada de Cafayate, a ravine that is normally dry but may get filled up by a torrent when it rains, is a spectacular area near the Conchas river bed, due to the erosion of the sandy landscape. This erosion, mainly caused by heavy summer rains and to a lesser extent by wind, has resulted in strange formations with a magnificent range of colors. Our hike will take us through part of this eroded landscape. We will start in the dry riverbed, and then go through a narrow canyon with breathtaking steep walls with fanciful shapes. After some time, the trail leaves the gorge, and slowly ascends, revealing a wider panorama with stunning views of the nearby mountains. From here the trail goes back down to the road, where we will be met by our private coach and taken to a local wine cellar for lunch. We will visit the adjoining vineyards and learn about Argentinian wine making before returning to our hotel in Cafayate. Dinner will be on our own. Overnight in hotel.

Day 6: Departing Cafayate in our private coach and proceeding north toward Molinos, we will pass some exquisite scenery with the foothills of the Andes on one side and dry land on the other. We will stop at Winecellar and Estancia Colome -- a few hours north of Cafayate but with a distinct wine producing model of its own, in the region Alto Valle Calchiqui. As the name suggests, this is an area that is home to the highest vineyards of the world, some cultivated at 10,000 feet above sea level. We will also visit the James Turrell Museum, opened in 2009, which has some powerful artworks spanning five decades in the artist’s career. After lunch we will proceed to Molino,s where we will stay for the night. Overnight in hacienda.

Day 7: After breakfast we will proceed to Cachi and then to Salta. During this journey we will hike in Los Cardones National park, where we will see the condor if we are lucky. Created in 1996, Los Cardones National Park, about 160,000 acres in size, maybe best known for its scenic portion of the Calchaqui valley, which offers visitors a glimpse of the unique mountainous and tropical topography of the province. We will encounter a striking array of colors, desert wildlife, and unusually large native cacti reminiscent of the American Southwest. We will also pass the Quebrada de Las Flechas (Gorge of Arrows) with its amazing rock formations. We will enjoy a boxed lunch, which we will eat on the way, and arrive in Salta by the evening. Dinner will be on our own. Overnight in city hotel.

Day 8: Today we will proceed north along the Humahuaca Ravine, a deep fissure in the Altiplano (High Plateau), produced by the eroding action of the Grande River. We will visit the Pucara de Tilcara, a pre-Columbian aborigine stronghold, which has been partially rebuilt to convey its grandeur. It offers a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside and marvelous colors of the landscape. We will hike to the Gargare del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), which is a canyon with a 50-foot waterfall. We may have an opportunity for a short swim. After lunch in Ticara, a small town with narrow streets and good restaurants, we will stop at Maimara where the mountains are the most colorful -- red, brown, orange, yellow, ocher, salmon, and green. We will have an opportunity to hike around the Paseo de los Colorado (seven colored mountain) and then proceed to the town of Purmamarca, where we will spend the night. Overnight in hotel.

Day 9: Our trip today will take us to Salinas Grandes, the spectacular salt plain in a remote part of the puna, the high-altitude plateau. The salt flats are about 11,500 feet above sea level and we will walk around for some time in what may well be a blazing sun. Once a lake that dried up about 10,000 years ago, this is now about a 200-square-mile crust of salt up to 18 inches thick. We will observe the extraction of salt and the process to get washed salt pools, salt scaling, and how salt breads are molded with picks and axes. We will have lunch at a local restaurant nearby, and then proceed to our final destination in the northwest, an estancia in the town of General Guemes. Overnight in estancia.

Day 10: At this estancia -- one of the oldest estates in the country, its deed going back to the year 1609 -- we will have a leisurely breakfast when we will learn about the region’s traditions, its battlegrounds during the wars of independence. Afterward, we will visit a reserve housing yacare caimans, where this species of crocodile is being revived. We will have an opportunity to go birding with a local guide, on horseback or on a hike in El Totoral, a nature preserve with different plantations. Overnight in estancia.

Day 11: After breakfast our private coach will take us to Salta city for a walking tour of the major attractions and a visit to the High Mountain Archaeological Museum (MAAM), which has preserved frozen bodies of Inca children found atop a volcano in the Andes. After lunch in the city, we will transfer to the airport for our flight to Puerto Iguazu, a town near the famous Iguazu Falls. Our drive from the airport will be through a lush tropical growth of exuberant green vegetation. Overnight in hotel.

Day 12: Today we will have a full-day excursion of the Argentinian side of the world-famous falls, called Cataratas locally. Our guide will show us the Visitors Center and Nature Interpretation Center, and then we board a miniature train, or hike, to reach the starting point of the various trails leading to different parts of the falls. Lunch will be on our own. We return to our hotel in the afternoon for some leisure time to stroll or shop in Puerto Iguazu, and in the evening we have our farewell dinner. Overnight in hotel.

Day 13: Our trip ends today after breakfast. We will have various options to travel to other parts of the continent or back home to the U.S.

Getting There

Our trip starts at the international airport in Buenos Aires, where all participants will be met and transferred to our hotel. Please be sure to arrive at least by late morning of September 6th, 2016 to make it in time for the city walking tour, which will begin after lunch. There are many flights from the U.S., and all major airlines service that route.

The trip ends in Puerto Iguazu after breakfast on September 18th. Participants can then fly to Buenos Aires to catch their connection to the U.S. or to other parts of Argentina, or to cross over to Brazil if they wish to extend their stay.

Please note that leader approval is required to participate in this trip. Do not make travel arrangements until directed by the leader.

Accommodations and Food

Our accommodations are small charming hotels and estancias, each with its own history. All rooms will have a shower and bathroom. Same-gender roommates will be assigned to those traveling solo. The trip price includes all breakfasts, nine lunches, and eight dinners. Breakfasts in Argentina are not hearty but satisfying nonetheless. Our lunches will either be at colonial houses or restaurants, or be boxed lunches whenever necessary. Although Argentina is famed for its beef dishes, vegetarian food preferences are readily accommodated. Dinner on day one will be our first meal and breakfast on day thirteen will be our last meal provided on the trip. If you have any questions or concerns about accommodations or food, please ask the leader before signing up for the trip.

Trip Difficulty

Potential trip members should be aware of the nature and demands of adventure travel. You do not have to be in excellent physical condition to make this trip; however, there will be a great deal of outdoor activity and occasional long coach rides. We will be hiking on some rough trails under very hot conditions. Proper stamina and an overall good health would be necessary. We are likely to have some 90-degree Fahrenheit temperatures -- especially when we are in non-forested areas. Emotional balance, flexibility, maturity, and a spirit of adventure are essential to making this an enjoyable experience. There might be some itinerary variations depending upon road and weather conditions. 

In some of the areas we will be traveling, medical care may not as available or convenient as in the United States, making medical emergencies considerably more hazardous than they might be at home. Please take care of any potential medical problems before leaving home and bring adequate amounts of all medications you might need. If you have any questions about the medical form included in your trip application packet, or about whether or not our trip will be appropriate for you, please contact the leader. Your safety and the safety of our group depends on your candid responses on the medical form.

Equipment and Clothing

A pair of broken-in hiking boots is essential for hiking in the canyons and other rough terrain. Otherwise, good walking shoes will suffice. You may also need one or two hiking poles for added stability on uneven and rocky sections of the trail.

Please bring your own water bottles for drinking purposes. We will fill and refill them with purified water from larger containers. We do not want to contribute to the problem of landfills teeming with plastic bottles! A daypack for hikes and for coach rides, with items necessary for the day, is strongly recommended. A complete packing list will be sent out to all registered participants well in advance of the start date of the outing.

References

• Nouzeilles, Gabriela, and Graciela Montaldo, The Argentine Reader.
• Lonely Planet and Sandra Bao, Argentina.
• Zimmermann, Marcos, Argentina: The Landscape.
• Fecht, Hosne, and Duggan, Argentina.

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmentally understanding parallel concerns at home and abroad.

Deforestation and pollution are the main threats to Argentina's biodiversity and landscapes. According to the Foundation for Sustainable Development, environmental sustainability issues concerning Argentina are typical of those of most developing nations: poor water and air quality, deforestation, and soil degradation. Many nongovernmental and governmental agencies work toward research and policymaking that address pressing threats to the preservation of Argentina's wondrous natural landscapes, forests, and farmlands. Experts agree that it is not the laws that are deficient in Argentina; rather, it is repeated failures to enforce current laws. With the added internal conflict of the 2001 economic crisis, the struggle to balance economic growth and environmental preservation is a major challenge. Currently, growth agendas are severely outweighing pro-environmental action. The environmental, social, and health costs of these habits are not being computed into Argentina's economic formula.

From over 250 million acres in the early part of the 20th century, about 75 million acres of forest remain today. Aggressive targets to expand the agricultural area to increase soybean production for export has contributed to this problem. Beef production in Argentina also poses a threat to natural habitats. Beef ‘feeding,' located on land that used to compete with agricultural crops, has threatened grasslands and forests. Similar impacts have occurred with cattle ‘breeding.'

Finally, Argentina also faces the issue of energy consumption and management and the inefficient use of non-renewable resources. No significant effort is under way to harness renewable sources of energy.

On this outing, we will see firsthand some of the impact of the aforementioned causes of environmental destruction. In the Salta region, however, efforts on behalf of the environment have resulted in 16 percent of the land being under some sort of protection. There is much fertile ground for discussion and many conservation conundrums to be addressed when one immerses oneself in the frothy, aromatic cauldron of a fascinating and complex country -- Argentina!

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.