Rafting the Wild and Free Yampa, Dinosaur National Monument, Colorado and Utah

The Trip

In the entire vast watershed of the Southwest's seven-state Colorado River system, only one major river remains truly wild and free-flowing. That would be the Yampa River, and it is at its wildest in May and June when it swells with runoff from the high mountain snowpack.

The Yampa flows out of the mountains of north-central Colorado and into the canyon country of Dinosaur National Monument, through 2,000-foot-high golden cliffs and wooded canyons carved by rain, snow, frost, and wind. From our launch at Deerlodge Park to its confluence with the Green River at Echo Park, the Yampa roars 46 miles through exciting rapids and a colorful canyon maze cutting deep into the Blue Mountain plateau. It then meets the Green River and we continue 31 miles through more canyons to the departure point. The Yampa’s natural stream flow pattern and protected canyons are home to some of the last remaining healthy populations of river fishes and other rare wildlife. Above the river, desert bighorn sheep dance high on the cliffs, while eagles ride the currents in soft, circular patterns and peregrine falcons make dives for prey at blistering speed. There are miles of sheer, white and black tiger-striped walls, side-canyon waterfalls and 800-year-old Native American rock art.

Because it maintains much of its historic free-flowing stream pattern, the Yampa offers the thrill of running a truly wild river. Our rafts will plunge through many Class III-plus rapids, including Teepee and Big Joe. But the biggest challenge comes from a rapid that was born in 1965. One early evening that June, a huge flash flood carried tons of rock, mud, and boulders down Warm Springs Draw to the river, blocking the narrow river channel. Within 24 hours the Yampa took aim and breached the natural dam, leaving in its wake the Warm Springs Rapid, now rated as one of the "10 Big Drops" in the West. Hold on tight: Warm Springs during high runoff can be a Class IV rapid!

At Echo Park, the Yampa joins the Green River, flowing south out of the Gates of Lodore. "The Green is greatly increased by the Yampa," wrote Major John Wesley Powell in 1869. "All this volume is set eddying and spinning in whirlpools, and the waters waltz through the canyon." We will make a lengthy stop at Jones Hole to explore its clear trout stream, waterfalls, and spectacular ancient Fremont rock art. On our last day, we'll run the truly remarkable Split Mountain Gorge, where the river has cut through the mountain instead of going around it. We will try to solve the puzzle that has troubled geologists for years: How did the river run directly into, rather than around, this mountain range? At this point, the canyon walls close in, and the river picks up speed. This is one of the Green's steepest stretches, with the river dropping 20 feet per mile. These last 10 miles will make for an exciting, raucous, and spectacular end to a fabulous trip!

Sturdy 18-foot, oar-powered rafts will carry us downstream, each guided by an experienced, licensed river guide. Also, several inflatable kayaks will be “shared” among participants, which, with minimal instruction, will allow you to play in the river on your own, except in the largest rapids. If you wish to participate by paddling, an all-paddle raft can be added if a sufficient number of trip members wish to do so. You must have had some experience paddling and be in good physical condition. Let the leader know your preferences in advance. 

All Sierra Club domestic trips, in the past/present, have been/are conducted on originally Native American lands. The canyons of the Yampa and Green Rivers have been visited by and were important to Native Americans for at least the last 6,000 years. In fact, the river is named after a tuberous plant, the Yampah, which was eaten by the Yamparika band of Ute Indians. The Utes and their predecessors, the Fremont Indians, plied these rivers with barbed hooks made of bone; used reed and willow nets and weirs to capture fish; and grew corn, beans, and squash along the riverbanks. After years of broken treaties with the federal government and the invasion of their lands by settlers, in 1881 the Utes were evicted from the Yampa area and forced to move to the Uintah Indian Reservation in eastern Utah. Sierra Club Outings has made a commitment to acknowledge this past racism in our domestic trip brochures and continues to embrace the traditional Native values of honoring and protecting our Mother Earth.

The trip begins and ends in Vernal, Utah. Our itinerary provides a relaxed pace with exciting rapids to run and many canyons to explore.

Day 1: We meet in Vernal, UT and carpool to the nearby Utah Field House Natural History State Park Museum (price included in trip cost). The museum contains an extensive collection of dinosaur fossils/skeletons and many Indian artifacts, and is a great introduction to the natural and cultural history of the area and river canyons. Alternatively, the famous McConkie Ranch is a private location with a short, steep hike to view extensive Indian rock art and petroglyphs. The actual activity you will have depends on the trip date you register for. Your leader will give you complete information after you reserve your space on the trip.

Day 2: We leave our hotel early in the morning and move vehicles to the local outfitters' parking lot for the duration of our trip. Our gear will be loaded into the van and trailers, then we're off to our launch site at Deerlodge Park on the Yampa in Colorado. After a safety talk, we launch on the river, where we learn about canyon ecosystems, geology, observe wildlife, and run the first rapids. Lunch and dinner are provided. We camp in designated sites along the river. 

Day 3: We start the day off with an exciting run of Teepee rapids, and then stop for wildlife observations and talk about river ecology and endangered fish of the Yampa. There will be an optional short hike up a side canyon.

Day 4: Coffee is brewed and we are on the river to explore the historic Mantel ranch or nearby Mantel cave, an ancient Fremont archaeological site. We run Warm Springs rapid and later camp at Box Elder.

Day 5: After another sumptuous breakfast, we are on the river floating a few miles downstream to the confluence with the Green River. There we compare the free-flowing Yampa with the dam-controlled Green and discuss impacts of dams. After a short float, we arrive in Echo Park and explore the caves, Indian rock art, and historic structures. Back on the river after lunch we run the fun rapids of Whirlpool Canyon. Tonight we camp near Jones Hole. There will be an optional hike to archaeological sites and a waterfall (depending on time and conditions), and our final night's dinner is served.

Day 6: An early morning departure takes us through Island Park and into Split Mountain Gorge. After lunch, we have a moment of reflection about the trip, then we run some exciting rapids; what a fun way to end a trip! We will be off the river mid-afternoon. You get shuttled back to either your cars at the outfitter parking area, our original meeting point, or your hotel in Vernal. Once we're back in Vernal and we've had the chance to check into hotels and get washed up, we will have a no-host farewell dinner (not included in trip price) at a local restaurant.

Please note, the trip price does not include gratuities for the river guides. Gratuities are entirely voluntary and solely at your discretion, but they are customary. The guides work hard day and night, to make this trip as memorable and fulfilling for you as possible. If you agree they worked hard and contributed significantly to the success and enjoyment of your outing, you may want to express your appreciation with a tip. A guideline of 9-18% of the trip price per guest is appropriate. Your Sierra Club trip leader does not share any portion of the gratuity; leaders are unpaid volunteers and cannot accept them.

Getting There

We will meet the day before the trip starts at a designated location for a mandatory pre-trip orientation. At the orientation we will discuss logistics and location for the early morning rendezvous with our outfitter and shuttle ride to our put-in on the Yampa River.

You are responsible for getting to and from our meeting place in Vernal, Utah. At this time there is no direct airplane service into Vernal, but there is good highway access. If flying, you can fly into either Salt Lake City, Utah or Grand Junction, CO and rent a car and drive to Vernal. Vernal is located on U.S. Highway 40, 180 miles east of Salt lake City and 140 miles north of Grand Junction. Plan to arrive in Vernal no later than midday of Day 1 in order to meet for the museum tour. At the conclusion of the trip, plan to stay on in Vernal one additional night as we will not arrive back at our vehicles until mid to late afternoon, and everyone truly enjoys getting together for a final farewell dinner (not included).

Please do not make any non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader. Additional travel information will be available once approved for the trip. It is strongly recommended that you purchase travel and evacuation insurance to protect your investment in the trip.

Accommodations and Food

It is important to make motel reservations in Vernal, Utah as soon as possible after acceptance to the trip because this is a popular area. Motels often fill up months in advance. Pre-trip lodging, camping and additional local attractions can be found at Uintah County Travel and Tourism’s website www.dinoland.com.

While on the river, we camp at very scenic undeveloped campsites; typically beaches along the river. We follow Leave No Trace guidelines for desert river corridors to minimize our impact on this fragile environment, including using chemical toilets for solid human waste. There will be no plumbed or pit toilets available on the river. Sun protection is also very important. A complete checklist of what to bring will be provided by your leader upon acceptance.

Well-balanced meals with quality fresh meats, fruits, and vegetables are provided from lunch on Day 2 until the last day’s lunch. There is a vegetarian option at each meal. The guides double as camp chefs and the menu includes a wide variety of dishes. Lunches usually consist of hand-foods and are served picnic-style at riverside stops. Dinners and breakfasts are cooked over an open fire and often include tasty Dutch oven-baked treats. If you have a special dietary need, please inform the leader upon enrollment. It may not be possible to meet all special dietary requests, but the sooner the request is received, the better the chance.

The river provides plenty of highs and excitement. For your safety and the safety and enjoyment of others, no alcohol is allowed during the day or while on the river. You may bring your favorite beverages in plastic bottles or cans for camp, however.

Trip Difficulty

This is a trip of intermediate rapid difficulty. On the international scale of I (easy) to VI (unrunnable), the Yampa and Green in late spring are Class III runs. Most of the rapids we will encounter are Class II-III; but Warm Springs Rapid is Class IV. This is considered a late-spring trip, and the high-desert West can be chilly. Daytime high temperatures range from 45-80 degrees. Nighttime lows can be in the 40s. Thunderstorms are possible at any time. The water will be cold since it is just two or three days removed from the snowpack. Past trips have taught us to be prepared for anything, from cold, wet, and windy to hot, dry, and calm. While you can always cool off on a river trip, it is less easy to get (or stay) warm, so we'll have to pack for cool weather. How far we travel on the river each day will be determined by the campsites assigned to us by the park service, but a flexible itinerary is maintained during the day to accommodate water levels, weather conditions, and the inclinations of trip members. The total trip length will, however, remain the same.

Although we make every effort to ensure a safe trip and we have an excellent safety record, whitewater boating, hiking, and wilderness travel involve some risks. Physical challenges are inherent in rafting and are partly why people seek this kind of adventure. If you elect to participate, you must be in good health and willing to participate in a few group chores and activities. Trip members are expected to assist in loading and unloading the rafts. The trip leader will screen participants for their suitability for the trip in advance of final acceptance.

Our side-canyon explorations will range from easy walks to more difficult hikes requiring some scrambling. Although these hikes are optional, good physical conditioning is important in any wilderness outing. We strongly recommend, for maximum enjoyment of the river canyon experience, that you engage in a program of regular exercise prior to the trip.

We'll move at a leisurely pace, allowing plenty of time for hiking, photography, and exploring. It is a great trip for new river runners and experienced canyon-country aficionados alike. No previous rafting experience is required. Minimum age for this trip is 12 (18 if solo).

Equipment and Clothing

All boats and rafting equipment are provided. You will receive one large waterproof “camp” bag for your clothes and camping gear and one small “day” bag for items needed during the day. A complete personal gear checklist is given upon acceptance. Sleep kits (sleeping bag, ground cloth, and sleep pad) and tents are available to rent from our outfitter for a modest additional cost. You won't need much else beyond your personal items. 

References

Even a rudimentary grasp of the desert Southwest's natural and human history will greatly enhance your experience on this trip. The following are especially recommended:

• Tierney, Patrick and John Fielder, Colorado’s Yampa River, Wild and Free Flowing from the Flat Tops to the Green. This book details a trip down the entire length of the Yampa River. It includes scenic and historical photographs and a discourse about the Yampa’s human, natural, and political history, as well as its environmental significance. 
• Belknap, Buzz, and Lorie B. Evans, Dinosaur River Guide. Strip maps of the Green and Yampa rivers, showing rapids, points of interest, river lore. Made of waterproof paper; to be used while on the river. You will want to get one before we leave for the put-in.
• Hansen, Wallace R., Dinosaur's Restless Rivers and Craggy Canyon Walls. A similar guide to Belknap, except with much more information on geology of the river canyons; printed on waterproof paper for use while on the river.
• Powell, John Wesley, The Exploration of the Colorado River and Its Canyons. The historic, heroic 1869 descent of the Green and Colorado rivers. A classic!
• Cosco, Jon M., Echo Park: Struggle for Preservation. The complete story of the battle to save Dinosaur and defeat the Echo Park Dam, featuring the leadership role of the Sierra Club.
• Cole, Sally J., Legacy on Stone: Rock Art of the Colorado Plateau and Four Corners Region. Describes the rock art and cultures of the prehistoric and modern people of canyon country.
• Reisner, Marc, Cadillac Desert: the American West and Its Disappearing Water. The story of how the misuse of Western water has wasted a once-beautiful landscape. Though daunting in depth and scope, this book is a "must" for conservationists.

These and other books about the region are available from the Intermountain Natural History Association website (http://www.inhaweb.com/) or at their store in the Dinosaur NM Quarry. Bookstores in Vernal also carry many of these. 

Conservation

"Let us remember that we cannot create wild rivers, we can only spare and celebrate them." - David Brower, 1995

The Yampa and its canyons are indeed a unique natural area. In addition to an exhilarating five days of river-running, we will take the time to consider both the historical and present-day conservation issues in this part of the West. Dinosaur National Monument was at the center of one of the epic conservation battles of the last century, and it was out of that battle that Sierra Club raft trips were born.

In the early 1940s, after the signing of the Colorado River Water Compact, Bureau of Reclamation engineers sought to build a number of massive dams in the upper reaches of the Green and Colorado rivers -- including two huge dams in Dinosaur. One of these was to be built at Split Mountain, the other at Echo Park, which would have flooded much of the Yampa.

On this outing, we'll discuss the legacy of the Echo Park battle, new threats to the Yampa, the ongoing "red rock" wilderness battles in Utah and Colorado, and the role of the Sierra Club's environmental advocacy and activism programs.

As David Brower reminds us, "All wilderness victories are temporary; all defeats, permanent."

"The Utah deserts and plateaus and canyons are not a country of big returns, but a country of spiritual healing, incomparable for contemplation, meditation, solitude, quiet, awe, peace of mind and body. We were born of wilderness and we respond to it more than we sometimes realize. We depend upon it increasingly for relief from the termite life we have created. Factories, power plants, resorts, we can make anywhere. Wilderness, once we have given it up, is beyond our reconstruction." - Wallace Stegner

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.