In Search of Pack Ice, Polar Bears, and Whales in the Land of the Midnight Sun, Norway

The Trip

The Arctic is the remote and fascinating polar region located in the northernmost part of our world. It is teeming with wildlife, drifting pack ice, and remarkable tundra plants. The Arctic touches eight countries and also includes indigenous people and cultures. The polar biodiversity is extraordinary and, of course, well-known for the amazing life and adaptation of the polar bear.

The names Spitsbergen and Svarlbad are often used interchangeably in books and articles, just to make things confusing! The Arctic archipelago of Svalbard is a place where the summer’s midnight sun mirrors its torchlight off glaciers. Spitsbergen is the largest island in this archipelago. One of the last great wildernesses on earth, these areas are home to countless birds, seals, arctic fox, reindeer, walrus, whales, and the king of the arctic: the polar bear. With our expedition vessel the focus of our trip will be comfortable, exploratory arctic travel. We will spend as much time ashore as possible, combined with educational lectures on board, covering topics such as bird life, marine mammals, vegetation, and landscapes. We will have inflatable Zodiacs in which we can cruise among ice floes and search for whales, seals, and walruses. You will be fascinated by the pure wildness of a place with so much life, color, peace, and emotion.

Spitsbergen is the northernmost permanently inhabited area of the world. Approximately 60% of the Svalbard archipelago is covered by glacier, some seemingly starting at the very top of sharp peaks rising to more than 5,000 feet. Vegetation covers only 6-7% of the land with the most fertile areas found in the inner fjord regions. All of the area is underlain by permafrost, with only the top meter of earth thawing in the summer. Even in this hostile environment, small plants are able to survive; over 170 species have been identified.

Wildlife here is abundant and varied. Polar bear, arctic fox, Svalbard reindeer, bearded seal, common harbor seal, walrus, and several whales make their home on and around Svalbard. The reindeer here are smaller than their mainland relatives and do not form large herds. The islands are home to a variety of flora: in addition to the typical tundra vegetation of mosses and lichens, there are also 250 species of fungi, 7 species of ferns, and 164 types of flowering plants.

Some of the largest concentrations of birds in the North Atlantic region can be found here; up to several hundred thousand birds. Dominant species include the little auk, kittiwake, and fulmar, with other species such as Brunnich’s goose, Arctic skua, long-tailed duck, red-throated diver, barnacle goose, rock ptarmigan, both common and king eider, and purple sandpiper. While approximately 30 species nest in the Svalbard archipelago, the Svalbard ptarmigan is the only bird species that stays on here throughout winter. While this outing will not be conducted with a “birder’s only” focus, we will be able to observe many bird species and will marvel at the variety. Birders are welcome and it is likely that everyone, including non-birders, will start looking at and enjoying the rich avian life.

Some three thousand Norwegians and Russians live here in three permanent settlements, working mostly in research institutes or the coal-mining industry. The area outside the settlements of Spitsbergen and the Svalbard archipelago is still pure wilderness; vast parts being protected as nature reserves. Despite the northern position of the islands (76-81° N), the climate is relatively mild due to the influence of the Atlantic Gulf Stream. During our trip the summer temperatures will range from 32-50° F. Occasionally there will be rain and fog, but many days will have sunshine -- and many nights as well, due to the midnight sun. Temperatures will be fairly consistent from day to night. Winds can be variable in direction and force. This area may be described as an “Arctic desert,” with annual rain and snowfall a mere 7-11 inches.

Since 1700, Spitsbergen has been the goal or departure point for many expeditions, both scientific and exploratory. Some of the most famous are the Andrée Balloon Expedition, Amundsen’s venture with the airship “Norge,” and Mobile’s with the airship “Italia." The presence of coal was known relatively early to hunters and whalers who visited the Svalbard archipelago and they used it for heating. Interest in its financial potential did not arise until the end of the 19th century.

This cruise is much more than a sightseeing jaunt; it is truly an educational and exploratory circumnavigation of the entire island of Svalbard. A variety of optional activities, all of which are already included in the trip cost (Zodiac cruising and hiking), provide a unique opportunity for Arctic travelers seeking adventure and a true polar experience. Bring a good camera and join us for a unique trip of a lifetime!

While the following is the intended itinerary, all stated programs are subject to change, depending on a variety of factors, including weather, land and sea conditions, and sailing schedules.

Day 1:

The trip officially begins in Longyearbyen. Longyearbyen is the main settlement of Spitsbergen on the Svalbard archipelago, which was originally established as a coal-mining settlement more than 100 years ago. There are approximately 2,000 inhabitants in town. After stowing our gear in our cabins on the ship, we will watch from the decks as we sail on our way to the land of ice, snow, whales, polar bears, glaciers, walrus, and more.

Day 2: Cruising Krossfjorden 

Heading north along the west coast, we arrive by morning in Krossfjorden. Here we might board the Zodiacs for a cruise near the towering blue-white face of the Fourteenth of July Glacier. On the green slopes near the glacier, colorful flowers bloom while flocks of kittiwakes and Brünnich’s guillemots nest on the cliffs. We have a good chance of spotting an Arctic fox scouting for fallen chicks, or a bearded seal paddling through the fjord.

In the afternoon we sail to Ny Ålesund, the northernmost settlement on Earth. Once a mining village served by the world’s most northerly railway – you can still see its tracks – Ny Ålesund is now a research center. Close to the community is a breeding ground for barnacle geese, pink-footed geese, and Arctic terns. And if you’re interested in the history of Arctic exploration, visit the anchoring mast used by polar explorers Amundsen and Nobile in their airships, Norge (1926) and Italia (1928).

Day 3: The Massive Monaco Glacier

Depending on the weather, we could sail into Liefdefjorden and cruise within sight of the 3-mile-long face of the precipitous Monaco Glacier. The waters in front of this glacier are a favorite feeding spot for thousands of kittiwakes, and the base of the ice is a popular polar bear hunting ground. If ice conditions prevent sailing here early in the season, an alternate route along the west coast of Spitsbergen can be implemented.

Days 4-5: Stop at the Seven Islands

The northernmost point of our voyage may be north of Nordaustlandet, in the Seven Islands. Here we reach 80° north, just 870 km (540 miles) from the geographic North Pole. Polar bears inhabit this region, so the ship may park for several hours among the pack ice before wheeling around west again. Sometimes, due to seasonal wind and ocean currents, the edge of the sea ice can be tens of miles north of the Seven Islands, in which case we can spend a second day roaming through and along the edge of the pack ice. Alternatively we may turn to Sorgfjord, where we have the chance to find a herd of walruses not far from the graves of 17th-century whalers. A nature walk here can bring you close to families of ptarmigans, and the opposite side of the fjord is also a beautiful area for an excursion.

Day 6: Highlights of Hinlopen

Today we sail into Hinlopen Strait, home to bearded and ringed seals as well as polar bears. At the entrance there is even the possibility of spotting blue whales. As with Liefdefjorden, we can take an alternate west Spitsbergen route if ice prevents entry into Hinlopen. After cruising among the ice floes of Lomfjordshalvøya in the Zodiacs, we then view the bird cliffs of Alkefjellet with their thousands of Brünnich’s guillemots. On the east side of Hinlopen Strait, we may attempt a landing where reindeer, pink-footed geese, and walruses are often sighted. Near Torrelneset we can also visit the polar desert of Nordaustlandet, next to the world’s third-largest ice cap. Here we may encounter walruses during a coastline hike over the area’s raised beaches. 

Day 7: Barentsøya’s many bounties

The plan is to make landings in Freemansundet, though polar bears sometimes make this impossible. Potential stops on Barentsøya include Sundneset (for an old trapper’s hut), Kapp Waldburg (for its kittiwake colony), and Rindedalen (for a walk across the tundra). We might also cruise south to Diskobukta, though Kapp Lee is more likely our destination. On Kapp Lee is a walrus haul-out, Pomor ruins, and the chance for hikes along Edgeøya.

Day 8: Land of the Pointed Mountains

We start the day by cruising the side fjords of the Hornsund area of southern Spitsbergen, taking in the spire-like peaks: Hornsundtind rises 1,431 meters (4,695 feet), and Bautaen is a perfect illustration of why early Dutch explorers named this island Spitsbergen, meaning “pointed mountains.” There are 14 sizable glaciers in this area as well as opportunities for spotting seals, beluga whales, and polar bears.

Day 9: Bell Sund’s flora, fauna, and haunting history

Today we find ourselves in Bell Sund, one of the largest fjord systems in Svalbard. The ocean currents make this area slightly warmer than other areas in the archipelago, which shows in the relatively lush vegetation. Here there are excellent opportunities to enjoy both history and wildlife. A possibility is Ahlstrandhalvøya, at the mouth of Van Keulenfjorden, where piles of beluga skeletons can be found. These remains of 19th-century whale slaughter are a haunting reminder of the consequences of rampant exploitation. Fortunately, belugas were not hunted into extinction, and we have a good chance of coming across a pod. Alternately, while cruising the side fjords of Bellsund, we can explore tundra where reindeer like to feed as well as rock slopes where little auks are breeding.

Day 10: Today we arrive in Longyearbyen, reflecting on our incredible voyage.

Note: The likelihood that our tour operator can complete a full Spitsbergen circumnavigation depends on weather and conditions. Based on their experiences from 1992–2019, this circumnavigation has been successful 70% of the time. In case the tour operator cannot complete a full circumnavigation, they may devise a program in northeast or southeast Spitsbergen.

Also, world fuel prices may prompt a fuel surcharge levied by our tour operator for this trip. The fuel surcharge payment is the responsibility of each participant, not the Sierra Club.

Getting There

Our ship departs from Longyearbyen in the northern part of Norway. You can fly to Longyearbyen from Oslo, Norway on SAS or Norwegian Air Shuttle. From the Longyearbyen airport, you take a short ride by bus or taxi to the town. To insure you arrive before the ship departs, it is recommended that you arrive a day or two early. The ship departs from the port in downtown Longyearbyen at 4:00 p.m. The leader can assist you with recommendations regarding pre-trip activities and reservations if you arrive early. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Our ship, the M/v Plancius was built in 1976 as an oceanographic research vessel for the Royal Dutch Navy. She holds 110 passengers and we will be accommodated in comfortable twin rooms with a porthole or window, a desk, and plenty of storage; a single supplement is not available on this voyage. The ship offers a restaurant/lecture room and a spacious observation lounge (with bar) with large windows, offering a full panorama view. M/v Plancius has large open deck spaces (with full walk-around possibilities), giving us excellent opportunities to enjoy the scenery and wildlife. She also has 10 Zodiacs on board for our use. M/v Plancius is comfortable and nicely decorated, but she is not a luxury vessel. She is ice-strengthened, however, and was specially built for oceanographic voyages. Our ship is staffed by 17 nautical crew, 19 hotel staff (6 chefs, 1 hotel manager, 1 steward-bar person and 11 stewards/cabin cleaners), 8 expedition staff (1 expedition leader and 7 guides-lecturers), and 1 doctor. Delicious, fresh international cuisine, prepared by first-rate chefs and served by cheerful waiters and waitresses, is served in the dining room. Many dietary requirements can be accommodated. There is 24/7 access to hot drinks and snacks. The doctor on board is equipped to take care of any illnesses or medical concerns. Amenities onboard are very cozy, warm, and comfortable, but there will not be the fitness room, gift shop, casino, or hair salon usually found on big passenger ships. We will be cruising, but the Plancius is an expedition ship, not a "cruise ship."

Trip Difficulty

Participants must be in good health and have a spirit of adventure to truly enjoy this trip. We will need to climb up and down short, but steep, steps between decks on the ship and get in and out of our inflatable Zodiac landing craft. Most of our shore stops will be "wet landings" during which you will need to step out of the Zodiacs into calf-deep water on gravely or rocky shores. For these landings you will be wearing knee-high rubber boots and offered a helping hand. The terrain onshore can be on gravel, rocks, mud, uneven terrain, beaches, or snow/ice. Walking sticks are advised. Amenities onboard are very cozy, warm, and comfortable, but there will not be the fitness room, gift shop, casino, or hair salon usually found on big passenger ships. We will be cruising, but we will not be on a cruise ship.

During the Arctic summer, our temperatures will range between 32-50°F, with it unlikely to freeze. Occasionally there may be rain and fog or even a little snow, but we will have 24/7 sunshine most days. Winds can be variable.

Equipment and Clothing

No specialized equipment is needed for this outing with the exception of a good camera to photograph the birds, seals, whales, walrus, reindeer, polar bears, and other wildlife. A variety of layered, warm, and waterproof clothing is needed. Comfortable casual clothing is appropriate on the ship. You will be provided with a pair of knee-high rubber boots. The boots are a necessity for our "wet landings" when we go ashore and for walking in wet, muddy, or snowy/icy areas. There will be many excellent opportunities for photography, so those interested should be sure to bring camera equipment. A good pair of binoculars will aid in wildlife observation. The trip leader will provide a detailed clothing and equipment list for trip members.

References

Books:

There are many books on the Arctic, ranging from histories of the great explorers to scientific treatises to novels and journals. Below are some favorites, and browsing in a bookstore or online will net you many more. A few books and maps are sold aboard ship.

• Bruemmer, Fred, World of the Polar Bear.
• Chervov, Yu I, The Living Tundra.
• DeRocher, Andrew, Polar Bears: A Complete Guide to their Biology and Behavior.
• Freuchen, P. and Salomonson, F.,The Arctic Year.
• Lopez, Barry, Arctic Dreams. (Not written about the Spitsbergen area, but good reading.)
• Milliman, Lawrence, Last Places: A Journey to the North.
• Pielou, E. C., A Naturalist’s Guide to the Arctic.
• Rosing, Norbert, The World of the Polar Bear.
• Sale, Richard, A Complete Guide to Arctic Wildlife.
• Umbreit, Andreas, Spitsbergen (4th) Bradt Travel Guide.

Map:

• Stillwell, Nigel, Spitsbergen Explorer Map by Ocean Explorer Map.

Movies:

• To The Arctic. Greg MacGillivray, director. Focus on climate change.
• National Geographic: Masters of the Arctic Ice. Focus on mammals.

Websites:

• Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arctic
• National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration: http://www.arctic.noaa.gov
• Sierra Club’s initiative in the Arctic; mostly Alaska, but still relevant: http://www.sierraclub.org/arctic/

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward greater understanding, advocacy, and participation in the goals of the Club, both at home and abroad.

The Norwegian parliament has determined that Svalbard is among the best managed wilderness areas in the world. A specific set of regulations governs tourism in Svalbard. More than 50% of the island’s area has been designated as national parks, nature preserves, bird reserves, or plant sanctuaries. In these areas it is not permitted to dump refuse, remove plants or fossils, use off-road vehicles, hunt or trap, land helicopters, or construct buildings. The nature reserves have been established to protect an untouched arctic environment and allow natural ecological processes to proceed unaffected by human activity. Such areas have great intrinsic value and they are important as reference areas for scientific research. Consequently, the regulations are stricter in the nature reserves than in the national parks. All traffic on sea or land can be forbidden in the nature reserves when deemed necessary for the protection of plant or animal life.

Fifteen bird reserves are all along the western coast of Svalbard. Almost all the bird reserves are on islets and rocks. Their purpose is to protect the most important breeding grounds for eider ducks, barnacle geese, and brent geese. These species prefer breeding sites on rocks and islands, which are not surrounded by ice in summer and which are thus inaccessible to predators such as foxes. In three plant sanctuaries, for the protection of rare and endemic species, access is permitted, but picking or damaging plants is not.

Throughout our journey we will be observing and learning about this fragile arctic landscape. Our planet’s Arctic and Antarctic regions can be harsh and desolate, but at the same time are extremely fragile and susceptible to damage. These regions of the globe are especially vulnerable to damage from the direct impact of visitors, those who would exploit natural resources, and air and water pollution generated many thousands of miles away. We will see how human impact is affecting Svalbard’s tough yet delicate environment and we will learn about how these lands and northern waters are being managed to protect this high arctic wilderness. We will witness (and optionally help clean up) some beaches littered with trash that has floated in from as far away as Russia. Additionally, we will learn about airborne pollutants arriving from as far away as the United States that are being imbedded into the ice and animals, thus entering the food chain.

And finally, the Arctic now faces an uncertain future due to climate change, mining, shipping, oil and gas development, and over-fishing in key areas. In the last half-century, average temperatures in the region have increased 4 degrees Fahrenheit—four times the global average. The polar ice cap has shrunk nearly 40% since 2005. Permafrost has receded by nearly 10%. As ice cover decreases, seals and walruses move further offshore, beyond reach of Native communities relying on them for food. Polar bears struggle to survive, hunting on land as their sea ice habitat disappears. The Arctic Ocean’s entire underwater ecosystem is being disrupted as warmer water moves steadily north. Against the backdrop of climate change is an ever-increasing demand for oil. Alaska’s Arctic has the nation’s largest oil fields, which are steadily expanding their footprint across the tundra and offshore.

We will be discussing these topics and more on our journey.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.