Whales of the Pacific and Kayaking Espiritu Santo National Park, Baja Sur, Mexico

The Trip

Situated along the mountainous Baja Peninsula in remote southwestern Mexico, this adventure brings you up close to the wildlife and scenic wonders of both coasts of Baja. Washed on one side by the cool waters of the Pacific and on the east by the warmer, nutrient-rich waters of the Gulf of California, the peninsula's two coasts offer incredible wildlife and scenic diversity. This easily accessible area is also full of cultural treasures and friendly, relaxed, and helpful local people.

Each year 50-foot-long gray whales make an epic 10,000-mile journey from Alaska to the sheltered bays of Baja’s Pacific coast to give birth to frolicking babies. From southern oceans, green sea turtles migrate to the beaches and bays of western Baja to lay eggs in the soft sand. This is the setting for the first part of our adventure.

We start our journey in the small, charming city of Loreto in Baja Sur, Mexico. Early in the morning on Day 2 we’ll hike in a spring-fed desert canyon, visit a historic Spanish mission, then enjoy a healthy lunch. The afternoon is free to explore the palm tree-lined plaza full of craft vendors and musicians, before we enjoy a hearty dinner and get ready for the next day. After a private van shuttle, we arrive at Magdalena Bay on the Pacific Coast, the largest wetland in western Baja. Not only is it world-famous for being one of the three reproduction sites of the gray whales, it is also home for many migratory and resident bird species and sea turtles. Licensed local guides will show us how to respectfully observe the whales. We'll have the chance for a close up look from the vantage point of our panga (a motorized 16-foot boat).

We begin the second day in the Bay finding more whales, often calves with their mothers. Later that day, we’ll join a licensed, permitted marine biologist in monitoring sea turtles before returning to our comfortable eco-camp. When not whale watching or turtle monitoring, we’ll hike among fluted sand dunes and look for colorful birds and other animals or just relax. We start off the third day with our final whale-watching session.

After lunch a van shuttle takes us to the lively city of La Paz, for the second part of our adventure. We check into a clean comfortable hotel and have dinner at a popular seafood restaurant near the Malecon.

La Paz is located on the Gulf of California, also known as the Sea of Cortez. Jacques Cousteau once called this oceanic wilderness the “aquarium of the world” because of its tremendous diversity of sea life. Others have called it the “Mexican Galapagos.” We'll enjoy four days of adventurous sea kayaking and easy snorkeling along the coast of beautiful Espiritu Santo Island. This UNESCO World Heritage site and national park is uninhabited, unspoiled, and rich in wildlife, geology, and scenery. We spend the days kayaking and snorkeling in the turquoise waters, making short hikes, enjoying delicious seafood dinners, and gazing into the star-filled sky. With some cooperation from the wind and waves, we’ll camp at a new beach every day. Licensed bilingual guides accompany us to demonstrate kayaking safety practices and to share their knowledge of the area’s biology and fascinating history. A motorized panga ferries our camp gear to the next campsite, keeping our kayaks light, and takes on any tired paddlers. Top off the experience swimming with sea lions and perhaps spotting dolphins, humpback whales, or gentle giant whale sharks. Then we travel back by panga to the same comfortable hotel in La Paz and enjoy a celebratory dinner.

The trip’s final day includes a hearty breakfast and fond farewells, as the trip ends at the hotel. You can stay on or get a van transfer to San Jose Del Cabo International airport or fly out of La Paz airport. Our entire journey will have covered the best of natural Baja.

There will be a pre-trip orientation at 7:00 p.m. at our hotel the night before the trip begins. An optional 2-hour introduction to kayaking on the ocean clinic will be offered in the afternoon prior to the outing start and is very highly recommended for less experienced sea kayakers -- costs of the clinic, any hotel, and meals on this day are not included in the trip price.

Day 1: We depart with a bilingual guide for a 2-hour hike in a spring-fed desert canyon, then visit a historic mission. After lunch we return to our hotel. The afternoon is free to enjoy music and shopping at the historic plaza. Dinner is at our hotel in Loreto followed by a presentation on flora and wildlife of Baja. L/D

Day 2: An early morning shuttle (2.5 hours) brings us to Magdalena Bay on the Pacific coast. Arriving at Lopez Mateos, we will depart in a 16-foot motorized boat (panga) for exciting whale watching, searching for adult and baby gray whales. Later we are shuttled to our remote eco-camp for lunch. After lunch, enjoy a leisurely guided hike onto the sand dunes to learn about flora and fauna of this unique area. There will be an evening presentation on whale and sea turtle conservation and an orientation to the next day’s activities. Overnight at a remote eco-camp. B/L/D

Day 3: After breakfast we start the day with new whale watching. Then return to camp and prepare for either a sea turtle monitoring activity with licensed marine biologists or a bird watching session along the thick mangroves and shifting sand dunes, whichever is available. Your trip leader will inform registered guests which option is available as we get close to the launch. Our day on the water finishes with another great whale-watching session. All meals at the eco-camp. B/L/D.

Day 4: We have an early breakfast and then head out to our final whale-watching session. We then return to camp for a fond farewell to our eco-friendly hosts. Returning to the dock, we enjoy lunch before starting a 3.5-hour shuttle to the city of La Paz. In the late afternoon we check into our hotel. We eat dinner at a popular restaurant and then return to the hotel to prepare for the next days. Hotel in La Paz. B/L/D

Day 5: In the morning we leave for the outfitter’s shop to get fitted for snorkel gear and wetsuits. Then we depart for a one-hour shuttle by panga to colorful Espiritu Santo Island, a part of Espiritu Santo Archipelago National Park and a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site. We will set up our tents at a remote beach; have an orientation to camping, wildlife, and sea kayaking along the island; and enjoy lunch. Next, we’ll ride the panga to a protected islet location for a snorkel session to view corals and tropical fish, and possibly snorkel with friendly sea lions (weather and animals permitting). After returning to camp, we get in the kayaks for an afternoon paddle. Overnight at undeveloped beachside camp. B/L/D

Days 6-7: After breakfast, we will break down camp, load the pangas with gear, and then paddle our lightweight boats to new lunch and camping areas. We will sea kayak past towering cactus in scenic canyons and bird rookeries, and at camp enjoy a snorkel, swim, or just relax. Each day we plan to move camp and kayak to a picturesque new bay, depending on weather and ocean conditions. You may observe seabirds and dolphins, but always amazing scenery. A short hike may top off the day. Overnight at a new remote camp each night, weather/waves permitting. B/L/D

Day 8: We’ll enjoy an early morning paddle to another scenic bay, where we snorkel along a coral reef. There will be a delicious lunch before we load our gear into the pangas and return to La Paz midafternoon. We check into the hotel. There will be a few free hours for exploring the museums, art galleries, and crafts shops; or just strolling along the lively Malecon before our celebration dinner. B/L/D

Day 9: After breakfast at our La Paz hotel, the trip ends. Guests can take a taxi to the La Paz airport, shuttle to Cabo for a flight home, or stay longer. Airport shuttle not included in trip price. B

Getting There

The trip meeting place is our hotel in the city of Loreto, Baja Sur, Mexico (hotel details will be provided to confirmed trip members). There is daily jet service to Loreto from the U.S. It is a short taxi ride to our hotel. The trip ends in La Paz, Baja Sur, Mexico. You can fly back home directly from La Paz airport. Many people opt to take a 3-hour van shuttle to San Jose Del Cabo International airport for a short, less-expensive flight back to the U.S. or to stay longer. Details about visa and other entry requirements will be provided by your trip leader upon registration.

Each participant is responsible for making his/her own flight arrangements. Please do not make any non-refundable travel arrangements until instructed to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We stay in comfortable, clean hotels with private bathrooms and hot water showers for three nights on the outing. On nights 2-3 our accommodation is a permanent eco-camp with wall tents, cots, pads and bedding provided. On nights 5-7 we’ll enjoy the sublime beauty of wilderness camping on soft sandy beaches on Espiritu Santo Island. Two-person tents, pads, and sleeping bags are included in the trip price. Cellular and Wi-Fi internet access usually are available at the hotels, but not at the camps. The outing includes all meals from dinner on day 1 to breakfast on day 9. Vegetarians are easily accommodated. The kayaking guides cook meals during that trip segment, while camp staff provide the meals at the eco-camp. Dinners include Mexican and American dishes with fresh salads, cooked vegetables, rice/pasta, and often fresh seafood. Lunches are mostly a mix of freshly prepared salads, fruit, and sandwiches. Breakfast can include fresh fruit, cereal, nuts, milk, eggs, pancakes, juice, tea, and coffee. 

Trip Difficulty

This is an active trip of intermediate difficulty that requires prior experience hiking and swimming, with an above average level of health and fitness. Experience kayaking prior to the outing is highly recommended. Please note that your kayaking experience should be recent -- within five years of departure. Our kayak paddles often last 2-3.5 hours, but we keep a leisurely pace with rest stops. There is a panga to pick up tired paddlers. It is not possible to only ride in the panga and do no kayaking. An optional introductory sea kayaking clinic will be offered in Loreto during the afternoon prior to the trip start. This will increase your boating skills, comfort level being on the ocean, and safety. The clinic price is not included in the trip price. All participants will need to have been swimming regularly and/or frequently attending muscle stretching and strengthening programs in your hometown well before the trip begins for you to fully enjoy the outing and to increase your safety. Hikes will be easy to moderately strenuous, usually less than 3 miles in distance, but trails can be very steep and rocky, and temperatures warm. If you have questions about trip difficulty, contact the outing leader.

It is important to view the trip as a group activity where we stay together, and the needs of the group may outweigh those of the individual. An open attitude and respect for wildlife and the culture are important attributes that enhance participant’s enjoyment of the trip. Flexibility is critical because we may need to change the timing of some activities based on wildlife sightings and/or ocean conditions.

Equipment and Clothing

Hiking boots or trail shoes, sport sandals, rain jacket and rain pants, canteens, and a day pack are required. A detailed equipment list will be provided. A wetsuit for snorkeling along Espiritu Santo Island is included in the trip price. Daytime temperatures on the east coast will be moderate to hot (approximately 70 to 89 degrees) and nighttime temperatures moderate (50-60 degrees). Temperatures on the Pacific side are cooler, with highs 55-65 and lows 50-55. You’ll need to be prepared for a variety of weather conditions, from hot, sunny days to cool, cloudy windy evenings, depending on the location.

References

• Allen, Sarah, et.al., Field Guide to Marine Mammals of the Pacific Coast. 2011.
• Aitchison, Stewart, The Desert Islands of Mexico’s Sea of Cortez. 2010. A short book on Baja natural history.
• Kramer, Jennifer, Baja. Moon Guidebooks. 2020. 
• Minch, John and Jason Minch, Roadside Geology and Biology of Baja California, Mexico. 2017. The most comprehensive guide on geology and plants of Baja. 
• Niemann, Greg, Baja Legends. 1939. What locals call the best book on Baja history. A classic full of stories.
• Peterson, Brenda and Linda Hogan, Sightings: The Gray Whales' Mysterious Journey. National Geographic reprint. 2003.
• Steinbeck, John, Log from the Sea of Cortez. Penguin Publishing. 1955. A classic book about Steinbeck's early explorations.
• Wilder Larsen, Wendy and Josie Merck, The Gray Whales of Baja. 2012. Inexpensive guide to the whales we’ll see.

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources. Our outings seek to empower participants toward greater understanding and advocacy. Since 1960 when Jacques Cousteau called the Sea of Cortez the “aquarium of the world,” the marine resources and shorelines of Baja Sur have been impacted. Although still one of the most richly diverse marine ecosystems in the world and a sparsely populated region (except for the Cabo San Lucas area), there are pressing conservation issues within it — from overfishing to proposed mines near the gray whale birthing lagoons. This outing’s conservation efforts will focus on: whale, sea turtle, and whale shark threats, protection, and conservation efforts; challenges of marine national parks; impacts of climate change on the southern-most tropical reefs and oceans in Mexico; and impacts of mass tourism on desert environments and desert islands. A highlight of the trip for many will be when participants observe a trained marine biologist in the approved capture, data collection, and release of sea turtles in Magdalena Bay. This will allow for developing an in-depth understanding of sea turtle biology and threats to them (this depends on wildfire being present, but usually they are here at this time of year).

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.