The Enchanted Galápagos Islands, Ecuador

The Trip

"The natural history of these islands is eminently curious," Charles Darwin wrote of the Galápagos.

It is an apt description; from its unique landscapes to its comical birdlife, this volcanic archipelago has both puzzled and stunned its visitors for more than 400 years. Here, wildlife is easily approachable due to its isolation from many predators, including humans. The Galápagos Islands are among the world’s foremost wildlife preserves, providing us with unique and amazing experiences. In fact, a full 50 percent of the species here are not found anywhere else in the world. Such creatures include the three-foot-long vegetarian marine iguana, which is the only known sea-feeding lizard on earth, and the Galápagos tortoise, which can grow to six feet in length, weigh 600 pounds, and live for 150 years. And of course, Darwin’s finches, the icon of evolution. 

Darwin was the archipelago's most famous visitor; his chapter on the Galápagos in The Voyage of the Beagle remains a classic and well worth reading. He made extensive collections of plants and animals and observations of their natural history, giving him sufficient material to support more than a quarter-century of research. Twenty-four years later, he published the classic The Origin of Species, which shook the foundations of biological thought and led to profound changes in the philosophy of nature. These are the very islands that inspired Charles Darwin in 1835, and on this trip we will visit the Charles Darwin Research Center. 

We will explore both inhabited and uninhabited islands in the Galápagos. On land, we will observe severe volcanic landscapes with fascinating geologic features, walk through lava fields, hike the highland searching for the giant Galápagos tortoise, walk through colonies of blue-footed boobies and frigate birds, identify Darwin’s finches, step around mounds of marine iguanas, and take in the culture of island villages. Our days will be filled with activity, but you'll also have the freedom to just relax. 

Much of the unique life of the Galápagos is below water, so we will snorkel protected areas for a close look at the marine life. We hope to observe some of the Galápagos penguins swimming with us, as well as sea lions, sea turtles, sharks, rays, various fish varieties, seahorses and a multitude of other fascinating life found in these nutrient-rich waters.

An English-speaking certified Galápagos naturalist will accompany us and help us understand the amazing relationships between plants, animals, people, and their environment.

The play of light and water over the geologic landscape and the close encounters with wildlife make Galápagos a photographer’s dream. 

Our trip starts and ends in Guayaquil, the commercial hub of Ecuador and its major seaport. Here we will visit a chocolate farm and taste the exquisite chocolates Ecuador has become famous for, and have a tour of the city.

Day 1: Arrive in Guayaquil, Ecuador’s major seaport, where you will be met at the airport by a driver and transferred to our hotel. We will get acquainted at a short orientation meeting, an afternoon adventure in the area, and a welcome dinner.

Day 2: After breakfast, we will begin our adventure with a tour of Guayaquil and a visit to the Cocoa Plantation & Factory where we will learn about the production of chocolate and have the opportunity to make a purchase. In the evening, we will enjoy dinner together. 

Day 3: On to the Galápagos Islands! The flight to and from the Galápagos Islands (1 ½ hours) is included in the trip price. Tickets will be issued to you at the Guayaquil airport before we leave for the islands. We arrive at the Seymore airport on Baltra and are met by our certified Galápagos naturalist guide. We will take two short bus rides and a ferry ride to the Highlands, to look for giant tortoises in the wild. The landscape changes sharply along the way, as we go from the coast to lush, mist-shrouded highlands. After enjoying lunch here we take a short walk through a rain forest environment, where we might catch a glimpse of the spectacular vermillion flycatcher! Afterward we check into our hotel and enjoy dinner at a local restaurant in the coastal town and popular tourist center, Puerto Ayora. 

Day 4: A full day of discovery awaits us as we cruise to North Seymore and Playa Las Bachas Beach on a yacht dedicated to us. Here, a magical tour of enigmatic Galápagos wildlife awaits with blue-footed boobies, frigate birds, lava herons, lava gulls, and marine iguanas -- all up close and unafraid of us. Playa Las Bachas is one of the main nesting sites for sea turtles on Santa Cruz. The short walk around the lagoon lets us also study the island’s unique botany. It is a bevy of activity. This excursion includes a stop and stroll at Las Bachas Beach where one might see pink flamingos in the lagoons and sea turtles just off the beach. Here we will have the opportunity to snorkel in the clear waters.

Day 5: The Charles Darwin Research Station is our first visit today. This was where the famous Lonesome George resided after being found. He was the last remaining giant tortoise from the Island of Pinta. Unfortunately, Lonesome George passed away in May 2012; however, there is a memorial facility to him, which opened in 2017. Our Galápagos guide will explain the turtle breeding program while we try to sort out the different species of giant tortoise at the facility. The Center is home to the scientific programs on the islands and is also the main educational center for visitors. A wealth of information is available through their online portal. After lunch, we will walk to Tortuga Bay, which is only accessible by foot. We can relax and enjoy one of the most stunning expanses of white beach in the Galápagos -- home to hundreds of prehistoric-looking marine iguanas, blue-footed boobies, and pelicans. We can relax, swim, or snorkel.

Day 6: On to Isabella Island! This morning our speedboat will take us to our next island in time for lunch in Puerto Villamil, where we will check into our beachfront hotel. In the afternoon, a walk through mangroves along a wooden pathway reveals an intertidal pond, both frequented by sea lions and enjoyed by locals for swimming and snorkeling. Penguins have been also been reported here. We will visit the Arnaldo Tupiza Centro de Crianza de Tortugas Turtle Center and appreciate the value of these breeding centers in light of the invasive pests that plague the Tortugas in reproducing in the wild.

Day 7: Today we get aerobic with a hike up the volcano to Sierra Negra. Along the way, we enjoy the changing habitats and birdlife, but geology is the focus of the day as we attempt the rim of the second-largest volcanic caldera in the world.

Day 8: We’ll be back in the marine and coastal environment for this day’s excursion to Cabo Rosa (Los Tuneles), with lunch in the field. This unique spot is a marine paradise and one of the most famous snorkeling spots in the Galápagos. Lava flows into the ocean have formed tunnels in the water, for which this site is named. Flightless cormorants, only found in the Galápagos, may be seen here, along with penguins, sea turtles, and sea lions. 

Day 9: Off to our last island, San Cristobal, this time by plane. This is the oldest island geologically and the first island of Darwin’s visit. Its main town is Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the capital of the Galápagos province, which fronts the water, intriguingly named Shipwreck Bay. We will be able to visit the Hacienda El Cafetal coffee plantation, producer of Galápagos Coffee, a UNESCO Patrimony of Humanity site (a sustainable resource for island peoples). The plantation has been growing organic, bird-friendly, and sustainable shade-grown coffee from heirloom plants since 1875. We will tour the plantation and local surroundings.

Day 10: Our last full day in Galápagos will take us to Kicker Rock by boat for a full day of exploring remarkable shorelines, snorkeling, and possibly sighting a Galápagos specialty, the scalloped hammerhead. We will have lunch on a nearby beach to swim, bird the booby and frigatebird rookeries, snorkel, take photos, or just take in the magic that has made these islands famous. With luck we could encounter the friendly sea lion pups, who just might choose to swim with us! As time allows, we may visit the Interpretative Center and explore the Center’s trails, and have time to relax, explore the town, or take a dip at the beach across from our hotel.

Day 11: Today we fly back to Guayaquil and return to our welcoming hotel for our last night together and a Sierra Club happy hour, sharing favorite experiences and highlights of the trip.

Day 12: Unfortunately, this wonderful trip ends today after breakfast. We must say good bye to our Galápagos adventure and our new-found friends, and depart with wonderful experiences, photos, and a greater appreciation for nature and conservation. Airport transfers are included.

Please note that this itinerary may change due to factors outside of human control, for safety reasons, or upon the advice of our guides, who are working to optimize your experience while on the Islands. The Galápagos Park Service schedules visits to protected sites to avoid crowding or to reduce exposure to vulnerable species or habitats, and may institute a change in our schedule upon short notice. 

Getting There

Please note that the trip starts and ends in Guayaquil. You will need to arrive in Guayaquil on or before the first day of the trip. The flight out to the islands and back is included in the trip, but your international flight to Guayaquil is not.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Although this is not a luxury trip, we will stay in charming, locally owned modern hotels. Most rooms are double-occupancy; if you come alone we'll arrange for a roommate of the same sex. In San Cristobal the hotel accommodations are sparse, so we may have to stay in triple and/or quadruple rooms. We travel by air, comfortable buses, and fast boats. The food will be delicious -- a mix of local and continental dishes, with a variety of tropical fruits and vegetables. Vegetarians are welcome.

All meals and lodgings are provided as noted in the itinerary. Breakfast on day 12 will be the last meal included in the trip price. If you chose to have any meals at different restaurants, that cost will not be covered. 

Trip Difficulty

This trip is suitable for people who are in good health, get regular exercise, enjoy nature, and have a good-humored approach to traveling abroad--where things might not go as predictably as they do at home. Our trip is not strenuous; it can be considered leisurely-to-moderate most days. We will hike 2-8 miles, depending on the day. Our most difficult day is hiking to the top of a caldera, about 6-8 miles and 1000' elevation gain. We will snorkel from a boat, so you will need to be able to climb the ladder from the water up to the boat (approximately 6 steps.)  Overall elevation gains and losses will be minimal, though some trails are steep in spots and not always a smooth surface. The pace is slow since we often stop to observe wildlife or listen to our guide explain the history, the geology, or the ecology. Some species will require short hikes to view them. The minimum age for this trip is 12.

Although we will be traveling just at the beginning of the dry season, rain can fall at any time and the highland misty clouds can be cool and damp. Pack lightweight rain gear and/or a collapsible umbrella. It can be cool at night and you will need a sweater or jacket; it can also be breezy on our boat outings.

Equipment and Clothing

No special equipment is needed. However, binoculars and a camera are highly recommended. We have several opportunities for snorkeling; gear (mask, fins, and snorkel) is not provided, but can be rented for a modest fee. To assure the best fit, you can bring your own. Some type of light wet suit will help with comfort and warmth while snorkeling; it is not provided, but can be rented. In general, casual clothing for warm-weather hiking and boating between the islands is the recommended dress. Your leader will provide a comprehensive packing list well in advance of the trip.

The leader will carry a first aid kit for emergency use. You should provide your own personal first aid kit for minor needs such as bandages, moleskin, insect repellent, sunscreen, etc. Consult your physician for recommended current immunizations. 

References

Books:

• Moore, Yui DeRoy, Galápagos Islands Lost in Time. Penguin Books.
• Fitter, Fitter and Hosking, Wildlife of the Galápagos. This field guide covers the history, geology, plants, birds and reptiles with a limited description of the most common visited sites on the islands.
• Brower, K., Galápagos: The Flow of Wildness. Sierra Club/Ballantine Books.
• Darwin, Charles, The Voyage of the Beagle. Doubleday Books.
• Weiner, Jonathan, The Beak of the Finch. An engrossing account of the science of evolution explained by the changing beak of finches found on the islands.
• Darwin, Charles, On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection.
• Harris, M., Field Guide to the Birds of Galápagos. Taplinger Books.
• Rachowiecki, Rob, Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands: A Travel Survival Kit. Lonely Planet Books.
• Jackson, Michael H., Galápagos: A Natural History Guide. This is the best general guide to the history, geology, and plant and animal life of the islands.
• Melville, Herman, The Piazza Tales. Darwin wasn't the only one to find inspiration in the Galápagos. During the whaling era, Herman Melville made landfall here, and he perpetuated the sailor's nickname: Los Encantadas or "the Enchanted Islands." Melville delivers a metaphor-rich, almost hallucinatory account of the archipelago's history, filled with misstatements, speculation, and poetry.

Websites:

• The Galápagos Conservancy: http://www.galapagos.org
• The Galápagos Conservation Trust: http://galapagosconservation.org.uk
• WWF Global-Galápagos: http://wwf.panda.org/?uProjectID=9L0813

Video:

• Galápagos Islands videos from trip leader, Wendy Van Norden: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5O_vHPFSvCg

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmental organization concerned about conservation and sustainability, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers, aided by a salaried staff, with grassroots involvement and seeks to empower participants toward understanding environmental concerns at home and abroad.

On this trip, we'll have the opportunity to see the effects of real conservation in a country committed to protecting, rather than exploiting, its natural resources. You will be able to see firsthand the effect of invasive species. And you will learn how the boat Jessica, grounded with its cargo of oil, and almost caused an oil spill disaster. We will learn about Galápagos conservation issues and how those issues are related to environmental concerns in our own neighborhood, region, and nation.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.