Traversing the Spanish Pyrenees

The Trip

From craggy mountain peaks and idyllic alpine lakes, through ancient castles and medieval towns, to rugged coastlines and UNESCO World Heritage sites, the Pyrenees have a draw for every type of visitor. We will sample the best of this renowned mountain range as we travel from west to east, starting in Bilbao, the heart of Basque country, and ending in vibrant Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia.

Every day of our dynamic 13-day adventure will be different as the Pyrenees offer a highly diverse landscape and a deep cultural experience. Situated between France and Spain, these mountain ranges remain a long-standing fusion of both countries' cultures, which includes the old Kingdom of Aragon. Pilgrims, smugglers, traders, crusaders, and even kings and queens from all over Europe and beyond have crossed and lived in this area for millennia, adding to its rich cultural heritage. Ancient languages and ways of life still survive in its remote valleys.

We'll journey through this sublime tapestry of cultures, walk the famed Camino de Santiago, and visit magnificent castles, national parks, World Heritage sites, biodiverse volcanic zones, ancient Spanish towns, Romanesque chapels, fascinating museums, rugged Costa Brava, and even a mesmerizing old salt mine. We will enjoy private bus support at all times to transport us and our luggage from town to town and to the best trails of this region. We will hike on most days and take time to enjoy our surroundings' unique natural and cultural treasures. We will stay in charming boutique hotels and in an amazing medieval castle. Most hiking is optional, but an average day will include about 6-8 miles of hiking and around 1,000 feet of elevation gain.

The Pyrenees are a hidden gem -- for now. If you are looking to immerse in a world of enchanted ancient sites, exquisite landscapes, captivating history, and delicious cuisine, look no further, this is the trip for you.

The itinerary may change due to safety considerations, weather, or other unexpected conditions.

Day 1: Meet and greet in Bilbao

We will start our trip in the distinctive Basque Country -- or Euskadi, the name in Basque for this region. Meals will be on your own while in Bilbao to allow everyone to arrive at leisure and shed off any jet lag. We will meet at our hotel during the afternoon and once everyone settles, we’ll have our trip orientation followed by dinner.

Day 2: Discover Bilbao

Set in a valley between mountains, Bilbao has been transformed from an industrial city into a pleasant and interesting town. This day is kept relaxed in case of late arrivals or individual activity preference; thus, besides breakfast at the hotel, meals are not included nor is the entrance to the museum. Our full day in Bilbao will allow us to see the setting of the city from above and below and/or explore the Guggenheim museum, which started the city’s transformation.

After breakfast at the hotel, we will start with a funicular ride up a hillside above Bilbao, then walk (5 km/~3 miles) back to town to continue our walking city tour or visit the Guggenheim Museum. The leader will stay with the walking group as the world-class Guggenheim Museum is best explored on your own. We will regather at the hotel in the late afternoon to take a break and later walk to the old town (Casco Viejo) for tapas (known as pintxos in this region) and dinner.

Day 3: Walk part of the Camino de Santiago

One of the great pilgrimage routes of the medieval epoch was the Camino de Santiago. Faithful pilgrims traveled “El Camino” to express their faith, and the tradition continues today. We will start at the traditional beginning point of the “French Way” and hike part of the first day’s trek. We will meet modern-day pilgrims, whom we will greet with the phrase “Buen Camino!”, and enjoy a historic piece of Napoleon’s Route as this was the path taken by Napoleon on his conquest of Spain. 

Ride about 2.5 hours to St Jean Pied de Port, France. Walk “El Camino” to Roncesvalles, Spain: 10 kilometers/~6 miles.

Day 4: Forests and gorges of Navarra Provence

As we make our way along the Pyrenees, we will visit a number of diverse and stunning landscapes. Today we will see spectacular canyons and gorges, and hillsides dotted with churches and castles. 

We will hike in the limestone gorge of Foz de Arbayun (5 kilometers/~3 miles), home to the largest vulture colony in the world. We’ll enjoy a picnic lunch in the Foz de Lumbier before traveling by bus 1.5 hours to the village of Murillo de Gallego, at the base of the famous Mallos de Riglos.

In the afternoon, relax at the hotel, enjoy the spa and the views, stroll the village, or take an optional hike. Close the day with dinner at the hotel.

Day 5: Rock towers and castles

We start the day with a morning hike (6.5 kilometers/~4 miles with around 350 meters/1,155 feet of elevation gain) to the top of one of the towers of the Mallos de Riglos. These enormous finger-shaped towers of red sandstone rock extend abruptly above the village and offer outstanding views and a great place for a picnic lunch.

On the way to the Central Pyrenees and Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park, we will visit Loarre Castle. Constructed between 1020 to 1035 on an imposing hill to fortify land taken during the Reconquista of Spain, Loarre Castle is one of the best preserved Romanesque castles in all of Spain.

Night in the quaint village of Ainsa (1.5 hours' drive from Loarre).

Day 6: Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park

This park has the most elevated limestone plateau in Europe and boasts an abundance of vegetation. Due to its beauty, it was recognized as a place of national interest in 1918. Now a national park, it is one of the most popular in Spain. With diverse forests, numerous alpine meadows and waterfalls, it offers some of the best hiking in Spain.

We’ll take a 1-hour bus ride from the hotel to the park. Hikes will vary depending on snow conditions, weather, and group energy. High option: Ordesa glacial valley: 19 kilometers/~12 miles, ascending 250 meters/825 feet, and descending 1,000 meters/3,300 feet. Low option: lower Ordesa Valley along the Arazas River for as long as desired: maximum distance 16 kilometers/10 miles, ascending 800 meters/2,630 feet.

After a full day of exploring, we’ll go back to our hotel in Ainsa for dinner and rest.

Day 7: Bearded vulture conservation project visit

One of the unique creatures living in the Pyrenees is the bearded vulture. It has the distinction of being the only vulture to drop its food to break the bones so it can be eaten. They were near extinction a number of years ago before the conservation project started hatching and raising chicks. Now these magnificent creatures can be seen once again flying over the Pyrenees.

Today is dedicated to this interesting conservation project. We start the morning with a 20-minute walk to see vultures and kites feed. Later, we visit the Eco Museum and meet the people who work daily with the species to learn about the vultures and their role in the ecology of the Pyrenees. The rest of the day is free time to spend at leisure, strolling Ainsa’s old town, visiting its medieval plaza and famed restaurants, or resting at the hotel.

Today’s lunch and dinner are on your own so you can explore this quaint village before retiring to the hotel for a third and last night in Ainsa.

Day 8: Roof of the Pyrenees

We’ll start with a bus transfer (1.5 hours) to Benasque to hike along a valley just south of the Spanish and French border along the base of the highest peaks of the Pyrenees. We’ll hike below Aneto Peak, the highest in the Pyrenees and home to the last glaciers in the mountain range: 13 kilometers/~8 miles, with ascending/descending 350 meters/1,155 feet. Optionally, this hike can be shortened by taking the bus all the way to La Besurta.

We’ll finish with a bus transfer (1.5 hours) to the beautiful small village of Boi for dinner and rest in a local hotel. En route, we will visit Sant Climent de Taüll, a masterpiece of Romanesque art.

Day 9: Cross the Aigues Tortes National Park

Aigues Tortes means "twisted waters." This park has a number of lakes and streams as it gets about 1,000-1,200mm/~40-50 inches of rain per year -- bring rain gear! Our route traverses one of the best areas of this magical park along the high ridge of the Pyrenees mountains and into Cataluña, another distinctive region of Spain with its own culture and language.

Today’s hike takes us through the granite heart of mountains punctuated by alpine lakes and black pine forests. The hikes will be adapted depending on snow levels and fitness of the group. There is a harder option, if not blocked by snow, to cross the Portarró pass into the Sant Maurici lake (15 kilometers/~9 miles, 650 meters/2,145 feet elevation gain) or to do a return walk from Aigues Tortes. Local taxi service will be used to get to and return from the park. After the hikes, a long scenic bus ride will get us to the medieval town of Seo de Urgel for dinner and rest.

Day 10: Castles and salt mines

Today is a rest from hiking. After breakfast, we travel to Cardona, a beautiful historical city, famous for its spectacular 9th century castle (our hotel tonight) and the unique salt mine that gave wealth to the region.

Cardona is a delightful old Spanish town with a maze of winding and intriguing streets in the older parts of town. Eternally overlooked by its magnificent castle set high on a hill, Cardona will bring us back to the Middle Ages.

Arriving on a Sunday will allow us to enjoy the weekly market and the medieval festivities. On arrival, we’ll go underground on a guided tour of the salt mine. In the afternoon, we’ll have free time to leisurely visit Cardona and enjoy the medieval fair. Lunch is on your own so you can taste a treat here and there from market vendors. After exploring the town, we’ll tour the castle before settling in for the night to dine and rest as kings and queens once did.

Day 11: Volcanoes of Garrotxa 

We’ll take our bus (1.5 hours) from Cardona to Garrotxa Natural Park, a landscape of low, extinct volcanoes. While the last eruption was almost 11,000 years ago and the area is now green with vegetation, the forms of the volcanoes are still visible.

We will hike around the volcanoes on a trail that winds through small farms and forests. We will detour to a crater to see the “inside” of one volcano where an excavation has cut into the interior and a little chapel stands: 11 kilometers/~6.8 miles, with 300 meters/990 feet of elevation gain.

We’ll end the hike in the very pretty medieval village of Santa Pau for lunch. This is the heart of Catalonia -- politically and culturally. You see Catalan flags everywhere and the lingua franca is Catalan, not Spanish.

After lunch, we’ll travel to the Mediterranean and the Cap de Creus Natural Park, where we settle in the picturesque village of Cadaqués for our last two nights. Dinner tonight is on your own so you can break away from the group for a serene dinner along the gorgeous Costa Brava.

Day 12: Where the Pyrenees meet the sea

The Cap de Creus is the coastal area where the mountains descend into the sea. Wind and water have carved the most wonderful rock formations here, and cliffs drop dramatically down to the shoreline.

We will start at the lighthouse on the cape and hike along the rugged Costa Brava coast from Cap de Creus to Cadaqués (7 kilometers/~4.4 miles). We will walk past hidden beaches and coves, and along olive terraces to the tiny village of Port Lligat and Salvador Dali’s house. 

Back in Cadaqués, we’ll do an “on-your-own” lunch as there are many options available in town and by the water. In the afternoon, enjoy some free time to relax, visit Dali’s house, or walk around the beautiful town where almost every building is painted white and Dali spent his last years. We’ll regather for a farewell dinner by the seafront.

Day 13: Barcelona

After breakfast, we visit the medieval monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes to awe at its history and great sights over the Mediterranean. We finish our two weeks of exploration with a scenic ride (~3 hours) to vibrant Barcelona, where the trip ends upon arrival to a convenient central location that will be determined based on where everyone is staying. The leader/guide will help you get to your respective hotel. You are encouraged to stay a few days in this world-class city. Ask the trip leader for lodging options and sightseeing.

Getting There

The trip will begin in Bilbao, Spain and end in Barcelona, Spain.

There are no direct flights from the United States to Bilbao (airport code: BIO), so it will be necessary to fly from the United States via connection at one of the major European hubs, such as Paris Charles de Gaulle, Madrid Barajas, Amsterdam Schiphol, or London Heathrow. If flying to Madrid (MAD), the national train RENFE (www.renfe.com) from central Madrid to Bilbao runs four times per day and takes 5-6.5 hours. From the Bilbao airport, there is a bus service, called Bizkaibus, to central Bilbao that costs about four Euros. A taxi will cost about 40 Euros.

Barcelona El Prat Airport (airport code: BCN) has two terminals, one is for domestic flights and the other for international flights. The terminals are on opposite sides of the airport, but are connected by a free shuttle. There are several ways to reach the airport from central Barcelona, all with frequent departures and taking from 30 to 50 minutes. The most popular modes are the Areobus, which costs about 6 Euros, and the RENFE train, which costs about 5 Euros. A taxi or private transfer will run about 30-40 Euros. If flying out of Madrid, there are frequent RENFE train services from Barcelona to Madrid. The new high-speed AVE runs from Barcelona to Madrid in 2.5-3 hours.

For U.S. citizens, a valid (6-months before expiration) U.S. passport is required. For other countries outside the European Union, please consult your State Department. Consult with the trip leader if you have questions or need assistance with travel arrangements. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

Accommodations will be in locally owned hotels, with one night spent in the amazing Parador de Cardona in the Castle. Rooms will be shared, at a minimum of double occupancy, according to gender or same party (i.e., families, couples).

As noted in the itinerary, to allow some flexibility and individual choice of planned activities, lunch and supper are not included in Bilbao, and 3 lunches and 2 dinners are “on your own” throughout the rest of the trip. All other meals are included. Breakfast buffet is always included at our hotels. Lunch will be mostly picnic style at a location along hiking trails or sites we visit. Dinner will be at locally owned restaurants or at our hotels. Soft drinks and wine are sometimes included as part of the menu, but otherwise soft drinks and all alcoholic drinks are not included.

Trip Difficulty

To enjoy this trip, you should be able to walk comfortably for 3-6 hours. On most days there will be a moderate hike between 5 and 10 miles. On the days with the longest hikes, an additional guide will be available to offer a less strenuous hike.

Equipment and Clothing

This trip will require a comfortable, broken-in pair of hiking boots, and a day pack capable of carrying lunch, water, and extra clothing. Our luggage will be transported by our private bus, but may not always be available during the day. So, for our day’s activities, it is recommended that you dress in layers and carry a warm jacket and rain gear, as well as sunglasses, sunscreen, and a hat. Participants will be sent a detailed list of gear and clothing recommendations.

References

Books:

• The Rough Guide to Spain. 2015. One of several general guidebooks for Spain. (Also see Lonely Planet.) The leader likes the Rough Guide series best because they have a Contexts section with lots of background information.
• The Rough Guide to the Pyrenees. 2007. This guide is for the Pyrenees. It is a little out of date and has not been updated. Lots of background information. Organization is a bit difficult as it is laid out in sections that go north to south rather than east to west.
• Reynolds, Kev, Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees: Walks, Climbs and Multi-Day Treks. Cicerone, 2015. Lots of walks and climbing routes, but lots of background information.
• Woodworth, Paddy, The Basque Country: A Cultural History. 2008, Oxford. A great background book for the Basque Country around Bilbao.
• Mapa de Carreterras: España y Portugal. Anaya Touring. Updated anually. Great book for roadmaps and tourist information. Spanish only.
• Gibbons, Wes and Teresa Mareno, The Geology of Spain. The Geological Society (London), 2002. If you want to know about the geology of Spain, this book is a great resource.

Hiking Maps: 

• St-Jean-Pied-De-Port, Carte de Randonnee 1346 OT, Institute Geographique National 
• Ordesa y Monte Perdido Parque Nacional, Editorial Alpina
• Posets Perdiguero: Valles de Benasque, Estos y Chistau. Editorial Alpina
• Aneto Madadeta: Valles de Benasque y Barraves, Editorial Alpina
• Parc Nacional d’Aiguestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici, Editorial Alpina
• Garrotxa Zone Volvanica Parc Natural, Editorial Alpina
• Cap de Creus Parc Natural, Editorial Alpina

Conservation

One of the highlights of the trip will be spending a day with the Fundacion Para La Conservacion del Quebrantahuesos (Foundation for the Conservation of the Bearded Vulture). This beautiful bird was on the brink of extinction several years ago when this foundation was organized to save it. They rescue viable eggs from nests, which have a low likelihood of survival, and hatch them in a controlled environment. The chicks are then transferred to special cages resembling wild conditions where they are cared for until they are ready to fly. Once they are ready to fly, they are placed in new homes in canyons where few or no vultures are found but that are ideal habitats. As a result of this program, the number of bearded vultures has increased significantly. Once on the brink of extinction, they can now be found thriving again in the Pyrenees. Part of the price for the trip includes a contribution to this outstanding organization.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.