Walking the Franciscan Trail, Umbria, Italy

The Trip

Located in the center of Italy, Umbria boasts a rich history, picturesque villages, and beautiful countryside, without the crowds of Tuscany. We spend the majority of the trip here, walking portions of the Franciscan Trail, with our last two days spent crossing into Tuscany, where we visit several sites and an enchanting forest that were significant in the life of St. Francis. We’ll also spend time in Cortona, the town of Under the Tuscan Sun fame.

Our trip is a moderate and active trip, with a combination of hikes in the countryside and walks through villages and hill towns, averaging 3-5 miles/day, and it immerses us in the culture, food, and history of Umbria. It is accented by visits to regional and national parks, a nature sanctuary, Etruscan and Roman archaeological sites, monasteries and hermitages, old-growth forests and lakes, and is peppered with discussions about conservation while following in St. Francis’s footsteps, as patron saint of the environment. We’ll sample fresh, locally grown, mostly organic foods and wines, and enjoy the comfort of a country agriturismo for seven nights, where we’ll return from our days’ activities to charming cottages and a beautiful pool.

St. Francis is one of the most adored saints worldwide as well as Italy’s patron saint. You don't have to be religious or even spiritual to appreciate the teachings and life of St. Francis of Assisi, patron saint of the environment and animals. There are quite a few lessons we can learn from his life.

This trip itinerary was originally created by a titled contessa whose family owns a palazzo on the main square of Gubbio in Umbria. We will be invited to her family’s palace and if we are fortunate, we will view one of Gubbio’s medieval festivals from the palazzo balconies. Our trip may be guided by the countess, or will be by another charming Italian guide.

"I enjoyed the variety of hiking. It ranged from easy saunters to more difficult terrain with higher altitude gains, all through the beautiful Italian countryside. The accommodations were first rate. It was nice to know that the cost of the trip included everything except for two meals which made it easy to plan for expenses." - 2023 Trip Participant

"This was my first trip to Italy and I can’t imagine anything better. This trip combined incredible outdoor activities with deep cultural educational experiences led by warm and knowledgeable leaders . What could be better?" - 2023 Trip Participant

View the highlights from the 2023 trip

The leaders will make every reasonable effort to meet the goals outlined in the itinerary. Please keep in mind that weather or other conditions beyond our control may cause us to modify the itinerary in order to ensure the safety and well-being of the group.

Day 1: Orientation & Dinner in Rome

We meet this afternoon at our hotel in Rome. Here we'll get to know our other group members in our orientation meeting, then walk to dinner at a nearby restaurant. Rome sites and tours are not included in this trip, so it is suggested you arrive a day or two early and explore Rome on your own. Overnight in Rome.

Day 2: Orvieto

From our hotel in Rome, we are transported by private bus to the beautiful village of Orvieto, a picturesque hill town built high on a plateau of tufa rock. Besides its spectacular duomo (cathedral), Orvieto is known for its mysterious Etruscan caves and delicious wine. We enjoy a short walk around the perimeter of the town to visit an Etruscan archeological site and will have time to explore on our own, perhaps visiting the Museo Archeologico Nazionale. At dinner we sample local cuisine at a small restaurant in town. Hiking distance: 2 miles, +/- 700 feet elevation gain. Overnight in Orvieto, Umbria.

Day 3: Civita di Bagnoregio

This morning we explore the historic crumbling village of Civita di Bagnoregio, and hike through the countryside to enjoy the stunning landscape. We will sample typical bruschettas and local wines, returning to enjoy Orvieto's duomo. This evening we have dinner on our own (at participants’ expense). Those who wish can try the region's best gnocchi (potato dumplings) at a local restaurant. Hiking distance: 5 miles, +1,500 feet. Overnight in Orvieto.

Day 4: Oasi di Alviano & Gubbio

An early departure from Orvieto takes us on a naturalist expedition to the WWF (World Wildlife Fund) Oasis of Lake Alviano. The Oasis includes all typical environments of freshwater wetlands and is among the largest in central Italy, preserving aquatic environments that had disappeared for over a century. Its 900 hectares protect this unique treasure of biodiversity from hunting and speculation. It is a perfect spot for a little birdwatching and learning about some of its 200 migratory and sedentary species, as well as its flora and fauna. After lunch in a small village, we continue to our picturesque new home for the next seven nights, situated in the peaceful Umbrian countryside near Gubbio. En route we’ll stop at a supermarket to pick up breakfast supplies, and later we retire after another delicious dinner. Hiking distance: 2 miles, mostly flat. Overnight near Gubbio, Umbria (for seven nights).

Day 5: Gubbio & Monte Ingino

Today we enjoy Gubbio, one of the best preserved medieval villages in central Italy, located at the base of the Apennines. By special invitation, we visit an ancient palace, now a historical monument, where we will be transported back in time. We’ll hear about Gubbio's famous "Ceri Festival" and what the people of Gubbio are doing to protect their cultural identity and traditions. We walk up the local mountain, Monte Ingino, where the Ceri is run, and visit the Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo. We begin learning the history of St. Francis, visiting a statue that is a monument to the story of St. Francis’s taming of a wolf that was terrorizing Gubbio. From this point on, we will be on the Franciscan Trail. Hiking distance: 4-5 miles, +/- 600-800 feet.

Day 6: Monte Cucco

Visiting one of the highest mountains in Umbria, Monte Cucco, we hike on its slopes and enjoy incredible views of surrounding mountains. The flower varieties here are diverse and, on a clear day, we may see the Adriatic Sea. The park has mineral springs, healthy beech forests, and deep caves accessible only to small groups of travelers. It is also home to wolves and golden eagles. After our hike we can enjoy the quiet of a small church where St. Francis frequently prayed. Hiking distance: 4-5 miles, +1,500 feet.

Day 7: Assisi

Situated on Mount Subasio just above the setting where the Franciscan movement started, Assisi is a UNESCO World Heritage site, St. Francis’s birthplace, and also where he died; it therefore is a popular pilgrimage town. We hike uphill from Assisi to the mystical Eremo delle Carceri, a hermitage hidden among holm oaks. This is the single most important part of the Franciscan Trail, and the birthplace of the modern Italian environmental movement. In the 1970s, the WWF launched its "Operazione San Francesco" to save the very last wolves in the country, a tribute to St. Francis's love of and devotion to nature. During our visit of Assisi we tour St. Francis's basilica, a beautiful church with both Romanesque and Gothic architecture (an upper and lower church). It includes the tomb of the saint and Giotto's frescoes. We enjoy the evocative atmosphere of Assisi's roads and piazzas, and a panoramic view of the Umbrian plains. Hiking distance: 4 miles, +1,500 feet.

Day 8: Monte Ingino & Gubbio

Our hike today is a loop trail of the back side of Monte Ingino into Gubbio through the prettiest unspoiled countryside in Umbria. The trail winds through a forested canyon and past a small stone shrine and chapel that were used in filming a movie about St. Francis. At the end of the hike, it's possible to enjoy time on your own at the unique Gubbio shops in the afternoon. Hiking distance: 5 miles, +900 feet.

Day 9: Spello & Santa Maria delgi Angeli

In the morning we drive to the quaint hill town of Collepino, where we begin our downhill walk to Spello, a charming town famous for its homes beautifully decorated with flowers, where we walk its cobblestone streets. On our way back to Gubbio, we stop at Santa Maria delgi Angeli, a pilgrimage site where an enormous cathedral encloses a tiny 13th century church, the Porziuncola, where St. Francis prayed. This is one of the most important places for the Franciscans, as it was here that young Francis of Assisi understood his vocation, affirming his dedication to live in absolute poverty, all the while advocating for the poor, the sick, and animals. Hiking distance: 3 miles, -1,200 feet.

Day 10: Fonte Avellana

Today we explore one of the most important monasteries in Italy. Fonte Avellana was founded by a group of hermits living at the site around 980. Surrounded by chestnut trees and wildlife diversity, it was an important learning center at the time of St. Francis. It is regarded today as the place where "history was remembered" by monks who worked long hours transcribing ancient documents. It was visited by Dante, who described it in the Divine Comedy. We have lunch in the monastery and afterward we may have time to visit a coffee roaster. Hiking distance: 3 miles, +/-900 feet.

Day 11: Trasimeno Lake & Cortona

Moving from Umbria to Tuscany, the region of Italy most familiar to Americans, we head to Cortona, stopping at Trasimeno Lake, where we visit what is arguably the best small olive oil production center in Italy. Once you’ve tasted here, you will never think the same way about olive oil again. After leaving the lake, we continue to Cortona, the town made famous by the book Under the Tuscan Sun. Here we have time for a short walking tour of this charming town, and possibly visit the Basilica of Santa Margherita and Le Celle hermitage, and/or have time to explore the town on our own. Overnight in Arezzo, Tuscany.

Day 12: La Verna

Today we hike the Franciscan Trail to La Verna, another significant Franciscan center of Italy. The Sanctuary of La Verna, which sits on Monte Penna, was given to St. Francis by Count Orlando of Chiusi in 1213 as a retreat especially favorable for contemplation amidst nature. We will hike in silence through this old-growth, magical, spruce-beech forest, enjoying its soundscape. Here we see the art of della Robbia and visit the site where St. Francis is said to have received the stigmata. We celebrate our trip together with a farewell lunch in the monastery, before we drive back to our hotel where we have a final group aperitif and prepare for train departures the next day. Dinner is on our own this evening (at participants’ expense) in order to offer time for packing and menu choices for our last night. Hiking distance: 4 miles, +1,300-1,800 feet. Overnight in Arezzo.

Day 13: Departure from Arezzo

After breakfast, participants can depart from Arezzo by train to Rome, Florence, or other cities to either fly home or further explore the wonders of Italy.

Getting There

The trip begins in Rome and ends in Arezzo. We meet in Rome on the evening of the first day. There are many convenient flights from the U.S. into Fiumicino Airport (FCO), Rome's main airport. You are encouraged to arrive at least one or two days early to allow for possible flight delays and to help minimize jet lag, and to explore Rome on your own before our trip begins. The Leonardo Express train runs from the airport directly to the downtown Rome Termini (main train station). Other options are also available, such as taxi, city bus, and Uber.

The trip ends in Arezzo, a small city in Tuscany. From there, you can take a train back to Rome or on to Florence, which is a bit closer. You can fly out from either city, but may want to consider spending time post-trip in Florence, where you can conveniently get to the airport from a downtown hotel. There is normally little if any price difference in flying round-trip to Rome versus into Rome and back from Florence. 

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified by the trip leader that the outing is officially confirmed to run.

Accommodations and Food

We will be staying in small inns and an agriturismo (countryside inn) with pool. We stay at two small inns for two nights each and at the country inn for seven nights. The lodging is double-occupancy with bathrooms in each room or cottage. Singles will be assigned a roommate. If the accommodations have a single room available and you prefer a single room, there will be an extra charge. In the country inn, couples may be sharing a cottage with another couple or singles, but will have a separate bedroom. All meals are included except two dinners, when we will have the choice of exploring various restaurants, at participants' expense.

Trip Difficulty

This is a moderate but active trip. Daily hikes will be 2-5 miles, with elevation changes of up to 1,800 feet and time spent in the various hill towns on cobblestone streets and medieval stairs. As with all trips, the better shape you are in, the more you will enjoy it.

Equipment and Clothing

A detailed equipment list will be sent to each participant. Plan to bring hiking boots, spring/summer clothes for hiking and layering, a day pack with water bottle, first-aid kit, sun protection, rain gear, and hiking poles. 

References

Books:

• Alvarez, Walter, The Mountains of Saint Francis: Discovering the Geologic Events That Shaped Our Earth. 1st edition. W.W. Norton & Company, 2009.
• Evans, Adele, Italy (Eyewitness Travel Guide).
• Francke, Linda Bird, On the Road with Francis of Assisi: A Timeless Journey Through Umbria and Tuscany, and Beyond. Random House, 2005.
• Kerper, Barrie, Central Italy: The Collected Traveler: Tuscany and Umbria. Fodor's, 1st edition.
• Nabhan, Gary Paul, Songbirds, Truffles, and Wolves: An American Naturalist in Italy. Penguin Books.

Conservation

Our trip focuses on the areas traveled by St. Francis -- the patron saint of the environment. St. Francis' philosophy promoted a way of living that was light on the land and respectful of all its creatures, centuries before this ethic became known. We'll be hiking in regional and national parks of the Apennines, Italy's mountain spine. We will visit preserved wetlands providing refuge for migratory birds during their long annual journeys between Europe and Africa. Our lodging will be at a country inn, and we will visit a working farm that is part of Italy's program to keep small farmers on their land by sharing it with visitors. The Italian appreciation of nature, and love for good food, will clearly be seen in the countryside, and on our table, and we'll learn how local people enjoy the best of both worlds.

Since its founding in 1892, the Sierra Club has worked to preserve and restore the natural environment we all share on this planet. Thousands of grassroots-level volunteers spearhead our efforts to conserve and sustain resources, both in our own backyards and on a global scale. Through direct experience in the outdoors, Sierra Club outings enable participants to better understand, advocate, and participate in the environmental conservation goals of the Club.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.