Walking the Witches Trail from Inn-to-Inn, Harz Mountains, Germany

The Trip

The Harz Mountains are rich in legend, folklore, and natural beauty. Straddling the former Iron Curtain border (now a green zone), the Harz National Park includes the fabled Brocken peak, highest point in northern Germany. The Brocken is the traditional meeting place of witches and devils; the German author Goethe even set a scene from Faust on its summit. The Bode Valley, Germany’s "Grand Canyon," offers dramatic cliffs and rushing waters. The Harz Witches Trail has been rated as one of the top trails of Germany. We will have a chance to obtain the coveted Harzer Wandernadel, a pin awarded to visitors who have stopped at various scenic points and stamped their “passports."

Each day we will hike on trails through forests, moors, and deep valleys, carrying only what we need for the day. Lunches will be trailside picnics or at small, local restaurants. At day’s end we will rest in comfortable rustic inns and guesthouses. On the way, we will visit UNESCO World Heritage sites, well-preserved medieval towns of half-timbered dwellings, and fairytale castles. Our trip ends in the musical and historic city of Leipzig, famed as the home of composers such as Bach, Mendelssohn, and others.

Day 1: (Goslar) We’ll meet in the afternoon at our historic small hotel in Goslar, a mountain resort easily reached by train from major German cities. At our orientation meeting after dinner we will get to know each other and outline our itinerary. 

Day 2: (Goslar) After breakfast, we will tour the town, rich in half-timbered buildings decorated with elaborate wood carvings. A tour of the Imperial Residence, Kaiserpfalz, with English-language headphones, is included. After a hearty lunch we will walk to the Rammelsberg mine (a UNESCO World Heritage site) with its millennium-long history of silver mining, for an underground tour. There is an opportunity to sample the famous Gose beer, which originated here, at dinner.

Day 3: (Goslar-Altenau) A short bus ride takes us to the Witches Trail. A mostly level forest and meadow trail threads through a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Oberharzer Wasserregal, an elaborate system of water control works dating back centuries. A slight detour off the trail takes us to our quaint inn in Altenau. The Kräuterpark, an extensive herb garden, is worth a side visit. Distance: 10 miles.

Day 4: (Altenau-Wernigerode) The literal high point of the trip is our ascent of the Brocken, highest point in northern Germany, and traditional meeting place of witches and devils. At the Torfhaus Center, we will tour the National Park visitor center. A hike with a park ranger to the summit passes forest and moors on the Goetheweg, named for the German author who often walked these paths. We cross the once-foreboding Iron Curtain, now a peaceful green zone. From the Brocken summit, we will enjoy vistas over several German states; if it is cloudy we may experience the eerie atmospheric phenomenon, the Brocken specter, in which giant shadows are projected onto distant clouds. The Harzer Schmalspurbahn narrow-gauge steam railway then takes us down to Wernigerode. Distance: 12 miles.

Day 5: (Wernigerode) A full day in the town of Wernigerode with its winding streets includes a tour of the old town center and then a horse carriage ride uphill to the castle with its ornate structures and historical exhibits. Dinner is on your own tonight to take advantage of the culinary variety offered.

Day 6: (Wernigerode-Drei Annen Hohne) Passing the narrow-gauge railroad tracks, we then enter the narrow valley Steinerne Renne, with its burbling Holtemme stream. We can ascend stairs up the natural granite monument Ottofels, which rises 120 feet over the dense forest. After a stop at the national park’s Nature Experience Center, a short bus ride returns us to Wernigerode to enjoy the evening there. Distance: 9 miles.

Day 7: Back on the Witches Trail, we walk downhill to the Königshutter Waterfall. From the promontory Hoher Kleef, we look down onto Rübeland, our stop for the night. In town, we may tour Baumannshöhle, a massive stalactite cave. The tour is given in the German language only. Distance: 9 miles.

Day 8: (Rübeland-Altenbrak) Ambling through forests and meadows, we see evidence of historic mining and interesting geologic features. After we cross the massive masonry dam at Wendefurth, the first foothills of the Bode Valley come into view. Tonight, our host is a renowned yodeling master; perhaps he will regale us with authentic mountain atmosphere. Distance: 9 miles.

Day 9: (Altenbrak-Thale) Our final day on the Witches Trail takes us through Germany’s "Grand Canyon," the Bode Gorge. Granite cliffs tower above us on both sides. We cross the Devil’s Bridge and look down at the churning waters of the Devil’s Caldron. Passing the fabled Rosstrappe and fairy ring, we arrive in Thale and the official endpoint of the Witches Trail. Here, the tourist office may check your Harzer Wandernadel passport and award the pin in bronze, silver, or even gold. You may wish to return to the chair lifts to the Rosstrappe or Hexentanzplatz (witches dance floor), or hike to the top. A brief bus ride takes us to dinner and our accommodation in Quedlinburg. Distance: 9 miles.

Day 10: (Thale-Quedlinburg) We will enjoy a full day in Quedlinburg, a UNESCO World Heritage site noted for its many well-preserved half-timbered buildings. A tour of the town is followed by a walk to the castle and St. Servatius monastery church.

Day 11: (Quedlinburg-Leipzig) A two-hour bus ride brings us to Leipzig, an historical trade and publishing center, known for its many fairs. A tour of the city includes a visit to the church where J.S. Bach was choir director for years, and the city’s many covered passageways lined with elegant shops. The Mädler Passage is home to Auerbachs Keller, where, as a student, Goethe saw the painting of Faust and was inspired to write his famous play. In Auerbachs Keller later, we will celebrate our farewell dinner, ending our walk in Goethe’s footsteps. Lunch is on our own today to enjoy the variety of cuisine in Leipzig.

Day 12: (Departure) Our adventure ends after breakfast. Our hotel is convenient to the Leipzig train station, one of the largest in Europe. The airport is a short ride on local transit.

Getting There

We start in Goslar, a resort town with excellent rail connections to Berlin or Frankfurt (3+ hours), Leipzig (2+ hours), or Hannover (1+ hour). Most major airlines serve these and other German cities, and it is possible to purchase an “open jaw” ticket returning from a different city. Our trip ends in Leipzig, which has extensive rail and air connections. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements without consulting the trip leader, who can also make recommendations.

Accommodations and Food

We will be staying in three- or four-star small hotels and guesthouses, in double or twin rooms; if you are traveling alone you will be paired with someone of the same gender. All rooms will have private bath. Single rooms may be available at additional cost; contact the leader if interested. 

All meals except one dinner in Wernigerode, and one lunch, are included. Breakfasts will be buffet-style with a large selection of breads, meats, cheeses, spreads, yogurt, fruits, and juices. Lunches will be trailside picnics or in small restaurants on the way. Dinners are in local restaurants or beer halls.

Trip Difficulty

This trip is designed for hikers in good health who are used to walking up to 10 miles a day for several consecutive days. The terrain is moderate, with trails consisting mostly of well-groomed dirt tracks winding through forests or open meadows, country roads, or occasionally on town streets. Elevation changes are gradual and not more than 2,000 feet per day; the climb from Torfhaus to the Brocken is about 1,000 feet on a gentle slope. The remainder of the Witches Trail is mostly level or downhill.

The highest peak in the area, the Brocken, is 3,747 feet, and we will ride the narrow-gauge railway down. The length of any day's hike may vary from the itinerary, depending on the route selected, the weather, and group safety considerations.

Equipment and Clothing

No special equipment is required. You will need the gear you normally use on day hikes. Medium-weight, properly broken-in boots are the most important item. Besides that, bring a day pack with your hiking essentials -- water, raingear, and something to keep you warm should the weather turn cold. The leader will provide a more detailed list later. Be sure you have enough extra room in your day pack for your share of the picnic lunches.

Our luggage will be transferred to our lodgings. Please try to limit to one bag that you may need to carry up flights of stairs, as smaller inns do not always have elevators.

References

The Harz Mountains are as yet mostly undiscovered by English-language guidebooks, though Leipzig does get some coverage. Walking in the Harz Mountains, by Fleur and Colin Speakman (Cicerone Press, 1994), includes some of our walks, but precedes the creation of the Witches Trail, so it is somewhat dated.

Goethe’s Faust is good for background, and his complete works include poems and other writings about the Harz Mountains. Heinrich Heine’s Harz Journey is a wry depiction of the land and people of the area. 

For practical information:

• https://www.nationalpark-harz.de/en/start/
• https://en.harzinfo.de/
• http://www.harzer-wandernadel.de/

Conservation

The Harz Mountains show the impact of centuries of human activity. Mineral mining was prominent until recently, and there is an elaborate system of water controls (Wasserregale) to harness and regulate its flow. The Harz National Park is 95% forested, though recently bark beetles and acid rain have damaged many trees. Efforts are underway to re-forest. A park ranger will accompany us on one day to explain these efforts. Wildlife have also been reintroduced, including the elusive lynx.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.