Kayak the Allagash Wilderness Waterway, Maine

The Trip

We will paddle in the homeland of the Wabanaki, the People of the Dawn, who have lived here for thousands of generations in what is known today as the Allagash Wilderness Waterway. This epic paddling journey follows much of a 100-mile-long chain of lakes and rivers and is one of the few eastern rivers that can be paddled in a week or longer without coming into contact with modern civilization.

Indigenous people paddled these waters for thousands of years. European settlers arrived and logged the surrounding forests. Eventually, the Allagash was designated a National Wild and Scenic River in 1970. The Allagash has it all -- from tranquil lakes (less tranquil when the wind kicks up in the afternoon) to easy-flowing flat-water river sections, to some quick water and moderate Class II whitewater paddling (options to portage these sections). The Allagash is also one of your best bets to see moose and bald eagles and drift off to sleep to the loon's cry echoing across the lake. The upper end of Umsaskis Lake on Day 4 of our trip, in particular, is like a wildlife park, a prime moose feeding area with otter, mink, muskrat, beaver, ducks, geese, and birds of prey as well.

“Primeval, untamed, and forever untamable nature," is how Henry David Thoreau describes the Maine woods after his explorations in 1846. Today much is unchanged. The vast forests, rivers, and lakes are not so different than when Henry David Thoreau journeyed here in the 1800s to canoe its waterways.

We will paddle the Allagash roughly 80 miles going north. This outing is geared toward paddlers who enjoy backcountry camping. Our campsites have fireplaces, picnic tables, and privies. We will take turns with cooking and clean-up. You will set up your tent, carry water, and have additional camp duties.

One night we will have a treat when we stay at Jalbert Sporting Camps on Round Pond, accessible only by boat (or seaplane). The camp dates to 1941 and is a traditional Maine sporting camp with bunk beds, a kitchen, and a hot tub. This will be a relative luxury compared to camping our other nights.

Jalbert camping and the shuttle to the put-in are included in the trip price.

We will travel by kayak along an 80-mile stretch, from Indian Stream to the northern terminus of the Allagash, where it meets the St. John River. Along the way, we'll take time to swim, take photos, and enjoy nature. This time of year we will enjoy long days, take advantage of the brisk high water, and see relatively few others (except for wildlife!) on the waterway.

We will paddle the traditional route across Eagle and Churchill Lakes to Churchill Dam. Below the dam is the optional 4.5-mile run of Class II whitewater through Chase Rapids for the more adventuresome. Others might choose Ranger transport with the gear to put in beyond Bissonnett Bridge, after which you will still enjoy another ~4.5 miles of Class I whitewater. After paddling across Umsaskis and Long Lakes to Round Pond, we'll paddle 18 miles to Allagash Falls, a scenic highlight (1/3-mile portage). We continue to Allagash Village at the confluence of the St. John and Allagash rivers. Weather, conditions, and group dependent, we might continue yet another 10 miles down the St. John River to Pelletier’s Campground, 2 miles past Rankin Rapids.

Campsites are first-come, first-serve and the wind tends to kick up later in the day, so we will get an early start each morning. Although we have a rough idea of where we'd like to camp and our preferred sites, and although late May is relatively quiet on the river, we will be flexible, allowing for times we need to paddle onto a different camp for the night. We have reservations for our “treat” night at Jalbert Sporting Camps. We generally paddle ~2 mph on the lakes and ~3 mph on the river.

Day 1: We meet at Pelletier’s Campground, St. Francis, Maine on the border with Canada at 3 p.m. We will set up camp, enjoy our first meal together, and make sure everyone has the necessary and appropriate gear for our trip.

Day 2: Today we go by van to our put-in at Indian Stream. There we'll load and line our kayaks, then walk in water up to our ankles ~ ½ hour before we start our paddle across Eagle Lake. We'll stop for the night, most likely at Farm Island. Along the way, we will stop at The Tramway, a small town where workers built a miniature cable railroad, or tramway, around 1903 to carry logs ¾-mile from Eagle Lake to Chamberlain Lake to be driven by water down to the Penobscot River. At peak production, a half-million board feet of logs were handled in a single day. In the 1920s, a full-size railroad took over transporting logs. The two oil-fired locomotives still sit where they were abandoned more than eight decades ago.

Day 3: We continue our paddle up Eagle Lake (a total of 12 miles on Eagle Lake), a 2-mile run through the thoroughfare, and five more miles across Churchill Lake. We will camp at Churchill Dam to enjoy the historic exhibit of the area and scout the rapids.

Day 4: Our gear and those wishing to go with the gear are transported around the dam and the first 4.5 miles of Class II Whitewater through Chase Rapids. Those who wish will paddle with the water release at 9 a.m. We then meet back up with the gear to paddle the remaining 4.5 miles of Class I water and then 5 miles across Umsaskis Lake. There, we'll likely camp at The Ledges or Sandy Point. Weather, group, and conditions dependent, we might continue down through the thoroughfare and another 5 miles through Long Lake. We'll camp at Long Lake Dam, where we portage our kayaks.

Days 5-7: We continue paddling the 10-mile run downriver to Round Pond, where we will have our “treat” night at the traditional Jalbert Sporting Camps. Then an 18-mile paddle, camping at the spectacular 40-foot Allagash Falls. We portage 1/3-mile around the falls and then run the 8 miles to West Twin Brook, the “official” end of the Allagash Wilderness Waterway.

Day 8: We’ll get an early start and continue another 5 miles to Allagash Village at the confluence of the St. John and Allagash rivers, where we might end our journey by arranging a car shuttle and saying our goodbyes. Alternatively -- weather, river conditions, and group dependent -- we might continue another 10 miles down the St. John River to Pelletier’s Campground one mile past Rankin Rapids. We'd arrive early afternoon to unpack the gear, have a quick lunch, and say our farewells.

The itinerary may be adjusted before the start and during the trip based on water levels and weather.

Getting There

We meet day one (Saturday) at Pelletier’s Campground, St. Francis, Maine (Canada is across the river!) at 3 p.m. Pelletier’s is roughly 2 hours away from Presque Isle International Airport (PQI) (aka Northern Maine Regional Airport), 4.5 hours from Bangor, ME International Airport (BGR), or a 9-hour drive from Boston (BOS) via I-95 and Routes 11 and 161. Participants are responsible for their travel to and from the starting point. We will share fellow participants' contact information and carpooling is encouraged.

While we plan to end the trip on day eight (Saturday) after lunch, and fully expect we will, it is possible to become wind-bound. We have allowed time for this in our itinerary; however, it is still wise to make your return travel plans to consider this possibility.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We camp at designated sites along the river.  Campsites have fireplaces, picnic tables, and privies.  Everyone takes turns with cooking clean-up and other camp duties. 

Our first meal is dinner on day one and our last is lunch on day eight, served family style.  We provide snacks throughout the day, including snack bars, dried fruit, nuts, chocolate, etc.  The meals will generally be simple because of the remote environment, lack of refrigeration, and limited commissary equipment.  That said, Sierra Club trips and leaders are known for nutritious and delicious meals, and we plan to meet this expectation. 

Please note, that we can accommodate vegetarian and medically required special diets within reason as well as some preferences, but not all.  Please let us know well in advance.  We do offer some organic foods, but the trip is not predominantly organic so if this is your preference you may wish to bring some supply of your favorite snacks.

Trip Difficulty

Prior kayaking and camping and preferably kayak camping experience is required. While you need not be an expert, you should feel safe and comfortable kayaking. Water conditions vary from wide open lakes with exposure, to wind and waves, to a tranquil river, to Class I and II rapids. Some days may demand your inner resources to meet moderate or possibly strenuous (windy) conditions. Other days may be mostly quiet and leisurely. We will offer some instruction on paddling techniques and strokes, reading the water, paddling into the downstream “V”, etc. If you have questions as to whether your kayaking experience is sufficient for this trip, please contact the leader.

For the adventurous, there is a chance to run Chase Rapids, a 4.5-mile section of sharp Class II whitewater. Others will prefer Ranger transport with the gear around the first 4.5 miles of Class II rapids. The most difficult section of Chase Rapids is the first mile and a half below Churchill Dam. Chase Rapids has a controlled flow from Churchill Dam, with Waterway Rangers setting the flow at or near 500 cubic feet per second every morning, ideal for kayaking. After the first 4.5 miles, the rest of the rapids are fairly mild Class I with small drops and rocks to navigate around. Generally speaking, if you can read the river and see where to go and make your kayak go there, you shouldn’t have trouble with Chase Rapids. However, we encourage participants to take the portage around the rapids if at all nervous.

Since all kayak trips are somewhat strenuous, you owe it to yourself and the group to get in good physical condition beforehand to ensure the most fun for all. We will paddle most days for a good part of the day, averaging 11-12 miles per day (80 + miles in 7 days of paddling). We will paddle faster on the river, assisted by the flow of the river.

In May, we will have nice long days and take advantage of brisk, high water and see relatively few others. Our average expected daytime temperature is 65 degrees, with the average nighttime temperatures of 40-45 degrees. We hope we will hit that window in Northern Maine just after blackfly season and before the mosquitos. Regardless, we recommend you be prepared with a head net and plenty of mosquito repellent.

As with all Sierra Club trips, we are a team. You are expected to have a positive attitude and an open mind. The unexpected can occur at any time. You are expected to be supportive and understanding of anyone having difficulties. Everyone is expected to contribute to the group experience, be approachable to others, and take a genuine interest in team members. Interpersonal matters that participants cannot resolve themselves should be brought to the attention of the leaders for resolution. Participants are expected to stay committed to the planned activity and respect and follow the leader’s decisions. Participants’ thoughts, concerns, and group consensus are appreciated and taken into consideration in the leader’s decisions. To minimize risk, we stick together as a group and kayak together.

Equipment and Clothing

We will send you a detailed equipment list and answer gear questions when you are accepted onto the trip. The trip price does not include kayak rental. If you plan to bring your kayak you will need to have it approved by the leader to ensure it is suitable for this trip.  If you need a rental kayak, Pelletier’s has rental kayaks available. 

You will need a system to keep your gear dry. The easiest method is to put everything in small dry bags that will fit nicely in your hatches.  Spring is generally warm and sunny; however, rain is always possible and evenings can get chilly. All your clothing should be made of synthetic materials or wool to retain their warmth when wet and have the advantage of drying quickly. Cotton should be avoided. Good rain gear is essential as well as paddling footwear and dry shoes for camp.

You will need a reliable small tent, sleeping bag, and pad. We ask that you bring your eating utensils, etc. A hat with a brim is invaluable, especially to support an insect head-net (recommended this time of year).

All gear, including food and group gear, will be carried in the kayaks, so we will ask you to keep your gear to a reasonable minimum. The club provides food, cooking equipment, a first aid kit, and water purification equipment.

References

Books you might like to read include:

• Cook, David S., Above the Gravel Bar: The Native Canoe Routes of Maine.

• Caverly, Tim, Headin’ North: A Tale of Two Diaries.

• Marchand, Peter, Nature Guide to the Northern Forest: Exploring The Ecology Of The Forests Of New York, New Hampshire, Vermont, And Maine.

• Huber, J. Parker, The Wildest Country: Exploring Thoreau's Maine

Maps:

Your leaders will have ample maps, but it is always fun to have your own.

• "Allagash Waterway Guide & Map" published by the Maine Department of Agriculture, Conservation, and Forestry. http://www.maine.gov/dacf/parksearch/PropertyGuides/PDF_GUIDE/aww-guide.pdf
• Northern Forest Canoe Trail (NFCT) Maps available from the NFCT at: https://shop.northernforestcanoetrail.org/products/nfctmaps

  • Map 12: Allagash Region (South), Umbazooksus Stream to Umsaskis Lake

  • Map 13: Allagash Region (North) Maine. Umsaskis Lake to St. John River 

• National Geographic (A particular leader favorite)
  • "Allagash Wilderness Waterway North” Map #400
  • "Allagash Wilderness Waterway South" Map #401

Conservation

The Sierra Club’s history is steeped in efforts to protect wild places and promote the responsible use of the earth's resources.

As we travel down the Allagash we shall acknowledge the Wabanaki; the Abenaki, Maliseet, Micmac, Passamaquoddy, and Penobscot Nations; and extend our respect and gratitude for their stewardship of this land. We shall consider the continual violations of water, territorial rights, and sacred sites of their homeland.

Though the Allagash is designated a National Wild and Scenic River, the surrounding area faces environmental issues that include the climate crisis, fragmentation and development of timberlands, damage by invasive species, and proposed mining operations. We will discuss these issues and ways to address them.

On this, as on all Sierra Club outings, we will show concern and consideration for the environment and employ good conservation practices. We will recycle where we can and follow Leave No Trace (LNT) principles. Notably, at Allagash Falls, we will enjoy the bog “boardwalk” built by a Sierra Club Service Trip in 1990.