Hiking and Culture on Newfoundland's Bonavista Peninsula

The Trip

Known as “The Rock," Newfoundland (and Labrador) is Canada's easternmost province, a place with its own time zone and its own dictionary. It’s also a place of arresting landscapes, impressive wildlife, and superlative hospitality. 

We’ll spend our first and last nights in St. John’s, the centuries-old capital city, with its colorful houses and steep harbourside location. The rest of the week, we’ll be on the Bonavista Peninsula, learning about the fishing that was Newfoundland’s heart and soul, and making our own hearts beat faster from the rugged hiking and gasp-inducing coastal views.

Daily hikes will provide lots of opportunities for taking in the unique and varied geology, stirring scenery, and cultural history. We’ll round out our days with a sampling of the Irish-influenced music scene, tours of St. John’s and Trinity (established in 1558), and some authentic voices from Newfoundland’s past and present.

A trip to Newfoundland would be incomplete without boarding a boat or two. The tour price includes a Zodiac cruise to see if we can be watched by whales or if we can spot some of the puffins, bald eagles, murres, kittiwakes, or other birds and marine life that frequent the area; and an excursion around Trinity Bay to some abandoned fishing villages with a skipper whose family members lived there.

Day 1: We’ll meet midafternoon at our motel in St. John’s. After introductions and orientation, we’ll take a short walking tour to get acquainted with the city’s historic buildings and colorful stories (or is that colorful buildings and historic stories?) before enjoying dinner at a local restaurant. 

Day 2: Today we’ll look for moose and marvel at the otherworldly Newfoundland landscape on our three-hour drive to Trinity. En route, we’ll hike the woods and coastal cliffs of the three-mile Skerwink Trail, repeatedly cited as one of Canada’s best. We’ll be welcomed like long-lost family at our roadside motel, then head out for a traditional Jigg's Dinner.

Day 3: An action-packed day in quaint Trinity begins with a historical walking tour guided by a lifelong resident. Next, we anticipate close encounters with whales, bald eagles, sea birds, and other marine creatures as our excellent local guides take us out into Trinity Bay in a Zodiac.  We’ll finish the day with a dinner theater production combining Newfoundland’s infectious music and wry humor.

Day 4: Today begins with a visit to Dungeon Provincial Park and the twin arches of a collapsed sea cave. From there, we’ll continue to the end of the cape, to the distinctive 170-year-old lighthouse and its next-door neighbors—hundreds of puffins. In the afternoon, we’ll get a comprehensive overview of the fishery at the Ryan Premises National Historic Site.

Day 5: Our rugged 3.5-mile hike takes us to the remains of Kerley's Harbour and British Harbour, by way of quintessential harbors, a centuries-old cart path, a rocky summit, and a forest brook. After tea with our outspoken and utterly engaging captain, we’ll return by boat via some of the area’s resettled fishing villages.

Day 6: We’ll lace up our hiking boots again today for the Murphy’s Cove-Lodge’s Pond Trail, weaving natural and human history together (including some unique fossils) and perhaps even experiencing some land-based whale watching. Once we’re back in town, you’re free to explore Port Union, a National Historic District with several worthwhile sites.

Day 7: We’ll get in one more hike before our return to St. John’s, a short walk along the red cliffs of Tickle Cove (the filming location for The Grand Seduction). Back in St. John’s, we’ll enjoy a farewell dinner together, then head to tiny George Street and its profusion of pubs, in search of traditional music.

Day 8: After breakfast, it will be time to say our good-byes.

Getting There

Our trip will begin and end in St. John’s. St. John’s has an international airport (YYT) with flights connecting through Toronto, Halifax, Newark, or Montreal. A passport is required.

It is also possible to drive to Newfoundland, although significant time should be allowed. Ferries sail regularly from North Sydney, Nova Scotia. The crossing takes several hours and the closest landing is a two-hour drive from St. John’s.

Taxis from the airport cost about $25 Canadian. On the first and last days of the trip, shuttles will be available.

Please do not make travel arrangements until the leader has confirmed you as a trip member.

Accommodations and Food

We’ll stay in basic motels (2 stars in Port Union; 3 in St. John’s). Rooms are double occupancy and all have private baths. Some single rooms may be available, at additional cost, or we will match you with another solo participant.

The trip price includes all breakfasts and five lunches. We’ll have breakfast at our hotel each morning, then pack sack lunches before setting out for the day’s activities (except on day two, when we’ll have lunch at a café). Please bring reusable containers for your food. We’ll have dinner each evening at local restaurants, at your own expense. Provisions will be made for vegetarians. If you have other dietary restrictions, please discuss these with your leader prior to the trip.

Trip Difficulty

Daily hikes range from two to seven miles. Participants should be comfortable hiking several days in a row, over rocky, hilly, and possibly wet terrain. St. John’s is also quite steep, and walking around town will require a certain amount of exertion. We’ll hike at a relaxed pace, with plenty of time to soak up the scenery.

Equipment and Clothing

Sturdy, well-broken-in hiking boots are essential.  Full rain gear is also a must, as rain, drizzle, and fog won’t keep us from our appointed rounds. In your day pack, you’ll need a water bottle, reusable containers for packing your lunch, and anything else that keeps you comfortable for an active day outdoors. Cameras are highly recommended!

Valid passports are now required for U.S. citizens entering and leaving Canada.

References

Books:

• Arms, Myron, Servants of the Fish.
• Finch, Robert, The Iambics of Newfoundland.
• McFadden, David, An Innocent in Newfoundland.
• Momatiuk, Yva and Eastcott, John, This Marvellous Terrible Place: Images of Newfoundland and Labrador.
• Proulx, Annie, The Shipping News.
• Walls, Martha, Newfoundland Book of Everything.

Films:

• The Shipping News
• The Grand Seduction

Music:

• http://www.greatbigsea.com/music/discography

Conservation

We’ll see firsthand the disastrous consequences of overfishing, and learn about the impact of new economic models like tourism and oil drilling on the people and the land. We’ll also gain a poignant perspective on what stands to be lost to climate change; icebergs and whales being just the beginning of the list.