Hiking the Peaks and Valleys of the Dolomites, Italy

The Trip

The Dolomites are famous for their surreal beauty, with rugged, pale white, gray, and pink peaks rising abruptly from rolling green valleys. Geologically they have strong contrasts being composed of both dolomitic limestone and volcanic formations. The area has a rich and diverse cultural heritage with Italian, Ladin, and Tyrolean influences. In fact, most villages and towns have names in three languages: Italian, German, and Ladin. The Ladins arrived in the area from the northeastern alps and were subjugated by the Romans but never fully absorbed. After thousands of years of occupation they have left their mark on the area, an impact we will see, hear, and taste over the course of our trip. We will be hiking beneath the peaks in three of the principal valleys of the Dolomites: the Val Gardena, heavily Tyrolean; the Val Badia, a primarily Ladin area; and Val d'Ampezzo, the most traditionally Italian of the three.

Day 1: Meet in our central Bolzano hotel lobby at 4:00 p.m. for introductions and a trip orientation followed by dinner. You’ll have free time afterward to walk around this charming town before turning in for the night. You are encouraged to arrive a day or two before to explore Bolzano’s museums and hiking trails before our trip begins. This also provides a buffer in case of travel delays and time to adjust to jet lag. Lodging: Bolzen/Bolzano.

Day 2: After breakfast, we take a lift to up Oberbozen and a local train to Klobenstein where we begin a warm-up hike to view the ‘Earth Pyramids,' conical formations of eroded glacial moraine soils. We continue our walk 1-2 miles farther to enjoy the views and return to Klobenstein for a short train ride to the Plattner Bee Museum for a bag lunch preceding the tour. After the tour we return to Bolzano in the late afternoon for an optional visit to the Regional Archaeological Museum, home of Ötzi the Iceman. Ötzi's 5,300-year-old mummified remains were discovered on a mountain pass in 1991 in near perfect condition. Archaeologists and forensic scientists have learned a lot about ancient man by studying his remains, tools, clothes, etc. and it’s a fascinating glimpse into early man. (4-5 miles, + / -350 feet) Lodging: Bolzen/Bolzano.

Day 3: After an hour-long taxi ride into the Val Gardena, we take a lift up to Col Raiser to begin our hike amidst a stunning panorama of Dolomite mountain ranges. We take in lunch at Rifugio Firenza and then hike down to the town of Selva and our next charming hotel. (4 miles, +200 feet, -2,000 feet) Lodging: Selva.

Day 4: Today is a full day of hiking in the Val Gardena. We take a lift up to Ciampinoi to begin our hike through the hills and countryside. We stop at the stunning Zallingers Hut for lunch before descending into a forested valley. We return to Selva by taking a lift down to St. Christina followed by a short bus ride to our hotel or a 2-mile walk. (10-12 miles, +1,000 feet, -3,000 feet) Lodging: Selva.

Day 5: We take a public bus to Passo Sella and take a lift up to Rifugio Demetz at almost 8,000 feet. The descent is on a steep and rocky switchback trail with stunning views to Rifugio Vicenza where we eat lunch. Hiking poles are required and this route is weather dependent (Days 4 and 5 may be reversed). After lunch we continue hiking down to our hotel in Selva. The cars on the lift up to Rifugio Demetz are tall and narrow, and only fit 2 people. Entry and exit requires some agility and coordination so please speak with the leader if you have any concerns. (9 miles, +360 feet, -4,000 feet) Lodging: Selva. Note: Days 4 and 5 may be reversed depending upon weather.

Day 6: A shuttle transports us to the Dantercepies cable car that carries us up to the pass (2,000 feet) and a trailhead just below the cliffs of the Gran Cier. We enjoy spectacular views of mountains, valleys, and distant villages as we hike uphill sections and traverse ridges and mountainsides. Our hotel provides bag lunches to eat on this scenic trail. A lengthy switchback descent returns us to our next hotel in Corvara, located in the Val Badia region. (8 miles, +1,200 feet, -3,600 feet) Lodging: Corvara.

Day 7: Today’s layover day is about relaxing, strolling through Corvara, and/or taking a leisurely walk in the valley of Val Badia along a river and through rural villages. For those interested in the walk, we stop in La Villa Stern for lunch at a locally owned restaurant. (7 miles, + / - 600 feet). Lodging: Corvara.

Day 8: This morning we take a lift up to Col Alt and and hike across a long, broad plateau with considerable climbs and descents, always in view of distant peaks. Following the hike, we ride a cable car up to our rifugio for a unique experience, spending the night in co-ed dormitory accommodations. Perched high on a craggy mountain at 9,028 feet, Rifugio Lagazuoi offers unparalleled views of Marmolada, the Queen of the Dolomites, and its highest peak at 10,968 feet. (9 miles, +900 feet, -1,950 feet) The temperature will drop significantly at the higher elevation and warm layers are essential. Lodging: Rifugio Lagazuoi.

Day 9: This morning we wake in the crisp mountain air. If the view is clear, we can enjoy a beautiful sunrise. After a simple hiker’s breakfast, we descend by cable car and hike ~2 miles to the Bai de Dones lift which takes us up to Cinque Torri (Five Towers) and an outdoor WWI museum. You’ll have about 1.5 hours to wander around the museum, which includes dioramas and restored trenches, to learn about this tragic period in Italian and Austrian/Hungarian history. Lunch is at the nearby Rifugio Scoiattoli followed by a 3-mile hike down to meet our taxi. A 30-minute drive brings us to our hotel in the heart of Cortina, site of the 1956 winter Olympics. (7 miles, +850 feet, -1,200 feet) Lodging: Cortina.

Day 10: Our taxi arrives around 7:30 a.m. for an early depature to Passo Tre Croci. We hike up a forested mountainside, enjoy magnificent views of distant peaks and valleys and the stark Dolomite cliff faces on the way to Lago Sorapis. Sorapis is an alpine lake with a surreal glacial-melt blue color surrounded by craggy Dolomite mountains. There are a few places as we approach the lake with exposure, metal walkways and steps, and cables so be sure to raise any concerns with the leader. We enjoy a bag lunch at the lake before returning to the trailhead and taking a taxi back to the hotel. Note: This is a beautiful but popular hike so we need to depart early to avoid the crowds. (7 miles, + / 1,500 feet) Lodging: Cortina.

Day 11: Our taxi arrives around 7:45 a.m. for a drive to the famous Tre Cimi de Lavaredo (Three Chimneys) area, close to the Austrian border, to embark on one of the most popular hikes in the Dolomites. We follow a loop trail around these famous rock spires, enjoy lunch at Rifugio Lavarella and return by taxi to our hotel in Cortina. Microspikes are may be needed for potential ice/snow on the trail (TBC by leader). Our actual distance will depend on weather and trail conditions. (5-7 miles, + / -1,500 feet) Lodging: Cortina.

Day 12: After breakfast, we check out of our hotel and say our goodbyes. 

Getting There

This trip begins and ends in different cities. We start in Bolzano/Bozen and end in Cortina d'Ampezzo, both in northeastern Italy. Bozen is on the main train route north to Germany. If you arrive at either Milan or Venice airport, you can take the train to Verona (a great place to visit for a day or two) and change for Bolzano. There is also train service from Munich, another fine place to spend a few days getting over jet lag before the trip starts. Allow about 4 hours for the journey from either the Milan or Venice airports and add an extra 30 minutes if you arrive in Munich. Bolzano has its own regional airport with limited flights; it would allow you to avoid the train ride, but it might be more expensive. 

We end our outing in Cortina d’Ampezzo, which has neither an airport or train service. You could either take an inter-city bus to Calalzo (20 minutes) to get a train (2.5 hours) all the way into Venice. The easiest option is to take a public bus (2.5 hrs, €20) from Cortina to the Venice airport. Don’t count on getting early flights out on the last day of the trip as much of the day will be used up getting to an airport. 

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

We stay at a variety of hotels from large, somewhat fancy hotels (Bolzano) to smaller family-run establishments (Selva) often frequented by hikers. You will stay in double rooms with no access to single rooms. The leader will assign roommates of the same gender for single travelers. All rooms have ensuite bathrooms, typically with a shower.

For our one night at Rifugio Lagazuoi, we stay in bunk bed dormitories and may be split up across multiple rooms. Shared bathrooms with coin-operated showers are located down the hall. The rifugio management will situate us upon arrival and attempt to keep us together. The dormitories are co-ed and shared with other groups so you should expect people coming and going during the night. Ear plugs and a face mask are highly recommended along with a sleeping bag liner and slippers. Bunk beds are outfitted with a mattress, comforter, and pillow (no sheets).

We eat all breakfasts and half of our dinners at our hotels with the remainder being at local restaurants. Breakfasts vary from simple continental buffets of breads and coffee, to hearty German selections featuring cheese, cold meats, yogurt, and fruit. While vegetarian meals are not the norm in this area, our hosts are willing to make a special effort to accommodate guests. Usually omelets, cheese dishes, or pasta with tomato sauce is available. 

On most days, we stop at huts along our route for lunch. The huts serve soups, pastas, and often heartier entrees. On 3 days we carry bag lunches (you prepare 2 by shopping at a local market).

Trip Difficulty

This is a moderate hiking adventure, where we will hike well into the mountains. It is intended for the experienced hiker who is able to walk five to seven hours every day. Our maximum hiking distance is 12 miles, a 2,000-foot elevation gain and a 4,000-foot loss. We typically take a ski lift up into the mountains and hike down so there is significant elevation loss over the course of the trip, which requires strong legs and healthy knees. Our terrain includes pastoral rolling hills, broad meadows, steep ascents and descents, uneven trails with slippery roots and rocks, where we might encounter patches of snow even at the end of summer. Valley elevations are 4,000-5,000 feet and hikes will normally take us no higher than 8,000 feet. The elevation at rifugio (refuge) Laguzuoi is 9,020 feet. Everyone should plan on carrying day packs with water, rain gear (tops and bottoms), personal items and room for snacks and lunch. Expected daily distances and elevation gains are listed in the itinerary above, but may have to be changed depending on group abilities, weather, lift closures, etc. The distances in the itinerary include where applicable the use of cable cars to avoid the steeper and less interesting sections of trail. Trail snacks are the responsibility of each participant which can brought along or purchased locally.

We recommend you prepare for this outing by taking regular day hikes at altitudes similar to the ones we will encounter, with your day pack and 2 liters of water. We will be hiking at a moderate pace, around 2 miles per hour on level terrain and slightly slower going uphill, and taking short water breaks, but seldom long rest periods, except at the top of steep passes and while waiting for lifts. At a minimum, you need to be doing aerobic exercises in your mid-range or higher exercise zone, for 30 minutes at 3-4 times a week. If hill or stair-climbing with a pack is not part of your training you should at add resistance training (weights or machines) for your legs and back. 

Equipment and Clothing

You will need the gear you normally use on day hikes. Medium-weight broken-in boots are the most important item. Besides that, bring a day-pack (20-30 liters) with your hiking essentials; including water, rain-gear, and something to keep you warm should the weather turn unexpectedly. The leader will provide a more detailed list later. Be sure you have enough for snacks and bag lunch. Microspikes may be needed for the last hike on day 11 due to the possibility of snow/ice on the trail. These can be purchased on Amazon.com for about $25, but wait for the leader’s guidance.

It is important to have good-quality equipment in good condition, including boots, rain gear (tops and bottoms), day packs with rain covers, poly clothing, waterproof hats, and the willingness to hike with them every day. Remember, there is no such thing as bad weather, just wrong clothing. If one person doesn’t bring adequate protective clothing, it can significantly impact the whole group and the hiking plan for the day. No climbing equipment or climbing experience is required for this trip. However, experience with steep scree, snow fields, and exposure is important. An extensive packing list will be furnished to participants. Hiking poles are highly recommended. Well-broken-in yet sound boots are an absolute necessity.

Because we use taxi services for some of our moves, you are limited to 1 bag of 45 pounds or less. Soft-sided luggage, such as a duffel, is strongly preferred as it’s easier to fit into the taxis. Everyone should also be prepared to carry his or her own luggage up steep and possibly narrow stairs.

References

Maps:

• Kompass Maps nos. 616 and 617; available in Bozen upon arrival or online from: www.omnimap.com/catalog/hiking/kompass.htm.

or

• Tabacco Carta Topographic #s 03, 05, 07 & 011 - 1:250000 Series (available in Bolanzo and Selva).

Books:

• Price, Gillian, Walking in the Dolomites.
• The Lonely Planet Guide to Walking in Italy.
• Goldsmith, James and Anne, The Dolomites Of Italy, A Travel Guide. (Out of print, but worth the effort if you can find a used copy.)

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward understanding environmentally parallel concerns at home and abroad.

This mountainous region has been a center of human activity for thousands of years, since the days when hunters established seasonal camps in the valleys. 20,000 year-old petroglyphs are to be found nearby. Ötzi the Iceman, a 5,300-year-old man frozen in a glacier, was found here along the Austrian border. Beginning in the middle ages, early land managers instituted programs to protect grazing and woodcutting rights. Today, more and more tourists are attracted to this beautiful area, both in summer and during the ski season, and the Italian government is working to preserve the area and develop tourism. The impact of tourism is readily visible and the local concept of wilderness is very different than our own.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.