Kalaupapa Culture, Service, and Calm, Molokai, Hawaii

The Trip

"National Park staff guided our work projects with gentle hands and terrific information about Kalaupapa's history, people, and natural resources. … We felt lucky and honored to have worked for them." — 2018 trip participant

Volunteers on this trip have a unique opportunity to experience what few others do.

The peninsula of Kalaupapa occupies a special place in the history of the Hawaiian Islands. For many years this was the place to which Hansen's disease (leprosy) victims were banished to live in isolation from family and friends for the rest of their lives. Father Damien (now Saint Damien) and Mother Marianne (now Saint Marianne) lived and worked in the colony to serve the patients, advocate for changes, and make patients' lives more bearable. Now, former patients live at Kalaupapa, coming and going as they choose. The cure of this disease has affected many. In Hawaii's ohana-based (family) society, exclusion was an extremely difficult burden to bear, affecting both the victims and their families on other islands. Discrimination against families was common in the early 20th century when there was great ignorance and fear of leprosy.

Geographically, Kalaupapa is an isolated leaf-like flow of lava extending into the windward Pacific coastline. Its several miles of coast are a combination of tide pools, rocky shorelines, and pristine white or black sand beaches. The community of Kalaupapa occupies a small portion of this land area, leaving open tracts of grassland and trees. Now a National Historic Park, established in 1980, the park encompasses a total area of 10,726 acres, including approximately 8,726 acres of land and 2,000 acres of offshore/undersea area. Most of the land within the park boundaries is managed by NPS through formal cooperative agreements with various federal and state agencies, as well as private entities. The park was established to preserve the memories of the victims as well as maintain the settlements of Kalaupapa and Kalawao, a volcanic crater, rain forests and the iconic Molokai Lighthouse.

Typically, all visitors entering the peninsula must have a permit, and only visitors of the remaining residents are permitted to stay overnight (those 16 and younger are excluded -- a holdover from the days when patients' infants and children were taken from them). The island of Molokai bills itself as "the most Hawaiian island" -- indeed it has been subject to less development than other islands, with a strong coterie of residents who prefer to keep their island rural. Kalaupapa has seen none of the development typical elsewhere in the islands, making it an unusually quiet and lovely (and many say spiritual) place to experience.

The Project

“Worked hard, played hard, slept hard, ate hardy.” — 2019 participant

Our commitment is for each of us to work 30 hours on a variety of projects during our stay, under the direction of Miki'ala Pescaia, Ranger Coordinator of Volunteers, Kalaupapa Historical Park. These projects may include planting, gardening, weeding, and nursey work, as well as maintaining patients' gardens and clearing historic cemetery spaces. We will begin with a thorough cleaning of our quarters. Other projects will be developed as time allows and need dictates.

Day 1: We will meet at the Honolulu International airport for our morning, over-water, small-craft flight to Kalaupapa. There is a weight limit of one 15-pound bag and one 10-pound bag. Additional baggage will have to be stored in Honolulu. The leader will assist in arranging that. After landing on the inspiring Kalaupapa peninsula, we will be met by our NPS host and transported to our park-provided lodging. Settling in, we will find time to clean our quarters and unpack our gear. We will have an orientation to the island by Park staff, as well as an explanation of our service project. Lunch this day will be the first meal provided on the trip.

Days 2-5: We will work hard each day, but also get into the rhythm of "island time." Our shared meals provide nourishment as well as conversation and community. NPS staff, who include local islanders, will share stories and perspectives as they accompany us to daily work locations. These include breathtaking sights that few others ever see. During non-work hours, some will choose to snorkel or swim in the refreshing dock-side waters close to our accommodations. Others will wander the settlement, soaking up its history or observing a monk seal mother and pup. In the late afternoon on day five, after lunch provided by the Sierra Club, we will bid a fond “aloha” to new friends at Kalaupapa and return to Honolulu. Once at the airport in Honolulu, our trip comes to its conclusion.

”The trip was eye-opening and an amazing experience.” — 2019 trip participant

Getting There

Honolulu is accessible by many major air carriers. You are encouraged to come a day or two early to explore Honolulu's many fascinating and historical sites. The leaders will be happy to provide suggestions for accommodations and areas to visit. (See References.) Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

In Kalaupapa we will stay in the former dentists' and doctors' homes. These facilities are historic (i.e. old), but they are comfortable. Lodging is dormitory style and some rooms have as many as four beds. Bathrooms are shared and are uni-sex. There are bathrooms in each building. The setting is spectacular, with cool ocean breezes and shade trees. These homes are spacious and one has an outdoor wrap-around porch. We will gather and cook in one home; the other will be used for accommodations.

All of our food for the work week must be transported with us; the grocery store in Kalaupapa is available only to residents. The leaders will shop in Honolulu for groceries and package our food pre-trip to be flown to Kalaupapa. The Hawaii subcommittee prides itself on the food it serves; local products and recipes are incorporated into its menus. It is extremely important that you discuss any dietary restrictions with the leader(s) before you sign up. In addition to all grocery shopping being done in advance, our cooking facilities are limited. Special dietary needs may not be able to be accommodated. Participants will help with the preparation and clean-up of our meals during our Kalaupapa stay.

Trip Difficulty

This trip requires the ability to work in the outdoors in the tropical sun, wind, and heat, while bending, stretching, lifting, pulling, and sweating. The ability to perform physical tasks under these conditions is necessary for the enjoyment of this outing. A normal exercise program is important. There are no local medical facilities on the Kalaupapa peninsula. Trip participants must be willing to fly on small aircraft with limited personal luggage.

Equipment and Clothing

A detailed list will be provided to participants.

References

• Kalaupapa: A Collective Memory, Anwei Skinsnes Law.
• If you have time for a longer stay in Hawaii, the Bishop Museum in Honolulu tells the story of the Hawaiian Islands admirably. The museum has been updated in recent years; there are now daily activities and docent tours led by experienced and knowledgeable Hawaiians. On a recent trip there, we learned about (and practiced) traditional Hawaiian music, did some hula dancing, and toured the Hawaiian history section with a kahuna (knowledgeable teacher).

Conservation

The Sierra Club Outings program is based on heightening awareness of conservation and the environment throughout the world. We plan outings so members can experience new places, people, and activities. Our concern is the global environment; we encourage participants to take action to protect our shrinking world and its inhabitants -- human and otherwise. On this trip, we will be made aware of the uniqueness of Kalaupapa and the National Historic Park's participation in future plans for the peninsula.

"I loved the remoteness, a feeling of really being away from the rest of the world. The history of Kalaupapa drew me to this particular trip. I was glad to experience a little of what these people were put through due to Hansen's disease." — 2018 participant

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.