Portugal Traverse: Hiking through History from the Mountains to the Sea

The Trip

From Porto to Lisbon, this comprehensive journey takes us across the historical and natural landscapes of Portugal. We will discover what attracted Iberians, Phoenicians, Romans, Muslims, and Christians to fight for this land.

Alongside the country’s rich history are the diverse landscapes of forests, mountains, and coast woven into each day of the trip: from the beautiful and lush northern forests and prairies, to the Mediterranean open forest, to the rough Atlantic coast, and to the calm waters of the Tejo River. Portugal’s landscapes, historic towns, and medieval villages come alive, giving us a deeper appreciation when we meet the people who live there.

Local guides, farmers, chefs, musicians, and wine makers are all part of this experience, and their livelihoods offer great insight to life in Portugal. Wines and food also play a large part in our journey with visits to some of Portugal´s most significant and oldest Designation of Origin (D.O.) regions, and unique culinary experiences ranging from traditional farm stews to exquisite regional cuisine.

The pace of the journey has been carefully considered to make it comprehensive without being tiring; however, many days will be full with activity. At the day’s end, we may arrive to our lodgings just in time for dinner. On days when our group travels by chartered van or bus to the next region of exploration, our journey times will be two and a half hours on average. Many days of our itinerary are active and include hiking from four and a half to eight and a half miles through countrysides and vineyards, along old pilgrim paths, through hilltop fortressed villages, and over mountains and coastal bluffs.

We’ll enjoy city walking tours, a boat ride, port wine tasting, ancient Roman ruins, medieval castle ruins, and a gothic monastery. Each night we’ll rest in comfortable hotels, all with a strong sense of place and a great variety of settings, including stunning historical buildings and small boutique hotels. We’ll also visit an organic farm in the Alentejo, where we will learn about their unique model of sustainable agroforestry. The itinerary may need to be changed due to unanticipated events and inclement weather.

Day 1: After meeting our group and in-country guide in Porto on this early morning, we’ll travel 2 hours into the Northern Minho region to explore Peneda-Geres, a UNESCO World Heritage site and Portugal’s only national park. Our moderately difficult hike takes us from the village of Gaviera, passing intriguing espigueiros (stone structures used for grain storage), and up hilly, stone-strewn trails through shrubland of gorse and broom, and forest of juniper and oak. We’ll descend into a riparian streambed then climb up and over a vast landscape of rock and granite slabs with magnificent views of nearby mountain ranges and Spanish lands to the east.

Along the way, we’re likely to see small herds of Garranos (a Portuguese breed of semi-wild horse) and free-range livestock. This region is also home to the elusive Iberian wolf and we may come upon evidence of its habitation here. After lunch on the plateau, we’ll descend via switchbacks to the Sanctuary of Peneda. There we’ll have dinner at the hotel and rest for the night below an impressive granite backdrop called the Meadinha Wall.

Hiking distance: 5.5 miles; elevation gain: 1,300 feet; elevation loss: 1,300 feet.

Day 2: Exploring another section of Peneda-Geres National Park, we’ll hike across the mountains following an old pilgrim route toward the village of Sistelo, one of the oldest villages in the region. Centuries of human passage on this route has left a lasting impression (in wagon and cart wheel ruts carved into stone). Sistelo is also known as the Portuguese Tibet for its beautiful agricultural terraces.

We’re likely to see villagers working the land with hand tools, and elder-women serenely walking their Chachena (Portuguese breed of cattle) toward the barn, guided with a mere tap of their stick. We’ll have lunch on the trail. In the afternoon, we’ll drive 90 minutes to the town of Guimaraes and settle into our hotel, located in the heart of town. We’ll have dinner at the hotel.

Hiking distance: 8 miles; elevation gain: 330 feet; elevation loss: 1,500 feet. 

Day 3: Our day will be a full and varied one! In the morning, we’ll meet our local guide for a walking tour of the city. Guimaraes, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is considered to be the origin of the nation, as it was the feudal territory of the Dukes of Portugal who declared Portugal’s independence in the mid-12th century. While the medieval Guimaraes Castle and the Palace of the Dukes of Braganza are the city’s historical centerpieces, Guimaraes also has great examples of 15th and 16th century architecture in its archways, balconied town houses, and granite stone buildings.

After our city tour, we’ll travel 1 hour to visit the Vila de Mateus Palace. Built in the 18th century, the palace façade showcases a splendid example of Baroque architecture. Its interior, art, and décor provide us with a historical glimpse of the nobility, lifestyle, and military career of Antonio Jose Botelho Mourao, the 3rd Morgado de Mateus. Contained within is a library collection of 2,000 parchments and royal charters dating back more than 500 years.

After our palace tour, we’ll travel 30 minutes to the hilltop village of Provesende, then hike down into the magnificent Douro Valley, weaving through vineyards to the village of Pinhao. We’ll have a picnic lunch along the way and discover this uniquely beautiful landscape adorned with varied shades of greenery and spring wildflowers.

The Douro River is one of the major rivers in the Iberian Peninsula. Its surrounding area, called the Douro Valley (a UNESCO World Heritage site), produces Portugal’s highest wine classification (as a Denomination of Origin Control D.O.C.). In addition to the Douro wines, the Portuguese fortified wine called Port (vinho do Porto) is produced exclusively from Douro Valley grapes. We’ll spend the next two days in our hotel overlooking the Douro River. We’ll enjoy our dinners together at the hotel. Hiking distance: approximately 3 miles; elevation loss: 1,500 feet.

Day 4: This morning we’ll visit a family winery to learn more about local table wines and enjoy a traditional Portuguese farm lunch (soup, bread, cheeses) at their quinta. In the afternoon we’ll travel a short distance and embark on a boat ride on the Douro River. For centuries, and prior to the construction of dams, locks, and railways, the rabelo (traditional wooden cargo boat) was used to transport wine in barrels from the producing area in the “Alto Douro," down the fast-flowing river (and through rapids), to the aging cellars of Porto. 

Day 5: This morning we’ll enjoy a beautiful hike, mostly downhill, on an earthen farm road shimmering with schist, into the Douro River Valley. We’ll walk amidst terraced vineyards and take in great views of the river.

In the afternoon, we’ll travel 2 hours to the historic Bucaco Palace Hotel, nestled on the edge of the National Forest of Bussaco. The forest preserve was created by the Carmelite Monks who settled in this area in the 16th century. The forest, full of pathways and hidden chapels, boasts a hilltop perch (Cruz Alta) that offers expansive views of the walled forest and distant lands. One can see all the way to the Atlantic Ocean on a clear day. Participants will be revitalized from a contemplative hike in the forest and gardens surrounding the hotel and can choose their own pace, length, and elevation gain of their journey.

We’ll enjoy a fine dinner, in the regal setting of the Neo-Manueline style hotel restaurant. Built in 1907 and prior to its remodeling, the hotel was once the summer palace of Portuguese royal family. Its rooms and halls are still appointed with period furniture and décor. Morning hiking distance: approximately 3.5 miles; elevation loss: 1,150 feet. Afternoon in Bussaco Forest: self-paced walking, half a mile to 3 miles on hilly terrain.

Day 6: Today, we’ll drive 30 minutes to Condeixa-a-Velha and begin hiking a loop route up and down gently rolling woodland hills. We’ll be treading on a rocky gravel path on sections of an ancient pilgrim route still used for those going north to Santiago de Compostela following the Portuguese Saint James Way. It's also used by those walking south toward the Sanctuary of Fátima.

After a picnic lunch on trail, we’ll continue hiking a short distance, then dive into the ancient history of Portugal, going back centuries as we visit the stunning ruins and museum of Conímbriga, one of the largest Roman settlements excavated in Portugal. We’ll be awestruck at the intricately patterned and vividly colored two thousand year-old mosaic tiled floors, and wonder at the advanced technology of the thermal spa systems and aqueduct structures that remain. In the afternoon we’ll travel a short distance to the Gothic Monastery of Batalha, built in the 14th century to commemorate the defeat of the Castilian forces in what was the first act of the new nation of Portugal.

After visiting the monastery we’ll drive 80 minutes to Alvados and retreat to the peaceful setting of rural Portugal, staying two nights at a modern design hotel that is very much at one with nature, surrounded by olive trees in the Natural Park of Serras de Aire e Candeeiros.

Hiking distance: approximately 5 miles; elevation gain: 450 feet; elevation loss: 450 feet.

Day 7: Today we’ll take advantage of the morning coolness and set out directly from our hotel to hike up the mountainside, gaining expansive views of the verdant Alvados valley below, which is dotted with olive trees. Reaching the plateau, we’ll be taken back in time and tradition. Pastoral fields parcelled by sturdily erected rock-walled enclosures frame the landscape and contain much fewer cattle, horses, and sheep than in the earlier times when farming and agriculture was the hard-earned way of life for most. We’ll have a picnic lunch on the trail before descending down the gravelly and rocky path back to our hotel and welcoming refreshment of the swimming pool. This evening in the cooking workshop, we’ll have fun, laughs, and cooking craft, as we prepare a 3-course gourmet meal for our group.

Hiking distance: 7.5 miles; elevation gain: 1,470 feet; elevation loss: 1,460 feet.

Day 8: After breakfast we’ll travel east for 2 hours, along the Tejo river to enter the Alentejo region, which is the essence of Southern Portugal with its open landscapes of cork oak, hill top villages, and medieval fortresses. We’ll begin our hike in the small village of Galegos, located on the border with Spain (those who have never been to Spain are allowed a brief “side step”). We’ll hike on ancient paths through countryside of vast cork oak forest and granite rock outcroppings. We’ll have a picnic lunch on the trail.

On our journey to the hilltop fortress village of Marvao, we’ll tread on the same trails used long ago by smugglers who took coffee between Portugal and Spain. After some effort hiking the final uphill stretch, we’ll “gain the fortress” and enjoy expansive and stunning views of the border lands and Spain. Once checked into our hotel, a short walk and self-tour of the nearby Marvao Castle is a must do! We’ll enjoy dinner at the hotel and more amazing views of the countryside from its restaurant window.

Hiking distance: 7.5 miles; elevation gain: 1,411 feet.

Day 9: This morning, we’ll hike down from Marvao through oak forest, granite rock, and shrubland, then up to the beautiful hilltown of Castelo de Vide, with its cobblestone lanes, red-roofed, and white-washed houses. We’ll explore its castle, Jewish neighborhood (established in the 15^th century as Jews fled from Spain at a time of persecution), and medieval sections of the town considered to be some of the best-preserved places in Portugal.

Ancient inhabitants of Castelo de Vide included the Romans, Vandals, and Moors. We’ll have time on our own to have lunch and walk about the town before travelling a short distance to Galegos to visit a traditional olive oil press and learn about this unique product so intrinsically connected with the landscapes we are journeying through. We’ll return to Marvao in the afternoon and relax before dinner at our hotel.

Hiking distance: 6.5 miles, elevation gain: 820 feet; elevation loss: 1,640 feet.

Day 10: After breakfast, we’ll drive 2 hours toward the town of Evora, stopping on the way to ponder at the Iron Age megalithic monuments of Cromlech des Almendres. The circular patterned construction is believed to date back to the 6^th millennium BC and may have served a ceremonial, religious, or astronomical observation purpose. We’ll have a picnic lunch along the way. In the afternoon, we’ll enjoy a guided city tour of Évora. With its Roman temple, medieval Cathedral, Bone Chapel, and narrow curving streets, there is plenty of interest in and around this town. In the evening, we’ll have dinner on our own in the town.

Day 11: This morning we’ll travel 45 min to a very special organic farm to learn about Montado (ecosystem and agroforestry). Herdade do Freixo do Meio manages their land and its resources with strong social and environmental values using the Montado system -- an approach dating back to medieval times, characterized by low density trees such as cork oak, combined with agriculture and pastoral farming. The farm grows and produces an astonishing variety of food items, including wine, olive oil, smoked meats, honey, eggs, fruit, and vegetable products.

We’ll observe and join in the farm life, learn about their way of living, and enjoy a traditional meal with the rest of the workers. In the afternoon, we’ll drive a little over 2 hours to the Alentejo coastline that lies within the protected area of Costa Vicentina Natural Park and to our lovely rural hotel situated just inland from the coast, where we will stay for the next three nights. We’ll have dinner at the hotel.

Day 12: After breakfast, we’ll be transported to our hiking trailhead and begin our southward hike at Almograve, passing the Cabo Sardao Lighthouse and following the coastal path of the Rota Vicentina and the Fisherman’s Trail. Hiking on cliff-top pathways and sandy trails, we’ll view the ocean, rugged coastline, and deserted beaches below. White stork nests perch on rocky ledges all along the coastline.

If we’re lucky, we’ll catch glimpses of chicks in their nests and storks flying overhead. Kestrels, falcons, and other non-migratory coastal birds make this area their home year-round. We’ll enjoy a picnic lunch overlooking the ocean. Our hike ends on the back steps of our lodging where we can explore the tranquil surroundings, or jump into a refreshing saltwater pool and lounge until dinner at the hotel.

Hiking distance: 7.5 miles; minimal elevation changes.

Day 13: After a short transfer from our hotel, we’ll continue exploring Costa Vicentina Natural Park. Today’s hike starts with an ascent on a rocky trail to an outstanding viewpoint of Odeceixe beach seen from the majestic Ponta em Branco. The magnificence continues as our route passes many beautiful beaches to be admired from above: Alteirinhos, Carvalhal, Machados and Amália. We’ll be hiking mostly on the top of coastal bluffs, on undulating sandy and rocky trail, with a few steep inclines and descents. In Azenha do Mar, we’ll come upon a natural fishing harbor and can rest and refresh. We’ll have a picnic lunch on trail. Our hike ends at the welcoming fishing village of Zambujeira do Mar. This evening, we’ll have dinner at the hotel.

Hiking distance: 8.5 miles; elevation gain: approximately 300 feet; elevation loss: 300 feet.

Day 14: After breakfast, we’ll drive to Lisbon, a journey of around 2.5 hours. After dropping our bags at the hotel and taking some leisure time for lunch on our own, we’ll go on a guided walking tour of the city center. Lisbon is the capital of Portugal and also its largest city with a little over a half million population. It’s also one of the oldest cities in the world with an origin around 1200 BC. Lisbon is the country’s hub for finance, commerce, education, arts and entertainment, and tourism.

This evening we’ll enjoy dinner and a traditional Fado music show as a farewell to Portugal. Fado music began appearing in port districts in the early 1800s, sung by sailors, bohemians, and the working class. Fado is characterized by expressive and mournful lyrics about the sea, the life of the poor, regret, loss, and fate.

Day 15: After breakfast at the hotel (perhaps eating one or five more pastel de natas), we’ll bid each other farewell and coordinate our own transport to the airport and next destinations.

Getting There

The trip starts in Porto and ends in Lisbon. Porto is about 1 hour from the Lisbon airport by plane, and 3 hours by train. Participants may choose to book a round trip flight to Lisbon and take the short plane ride to Porto to start the trip. There are many historic and scenic attractions in Lisbon and Porto that can be enjoyed before the trip starts. The leader will provide a list of recommendations for sightseeing. Participants are encouraged to arrive at Portugal one or two days before the trip starts to acclimate and recover from jet lag.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

As we journey from Porto to Lisbon across diverse landscapes, from cities to villages and rural settings, we’ll also have diverse and unique lodging accommodations. In the city centers, we’ll stay in comfortable boutique hotels. In other destinations, we’ll stay in historic and contemporary buildings, each with a unique layout and fascinating story to tell. 

Lodging will be double occupancy (single travelers will share rooms with other single, same-sex travelers). Single room options are costly and cannot be guaranteed.

Buffet-style breakfasts offer a delicious and varied assortment of freshly baked breads and pastries, hot dishes, cold meats, cheeses, fruits, and juices. Group lunches will be picnic style (sandwich, fruit, cookie, or cake) provided as lunch packs by the hotels or guides. Our group will need to pack our own water (for the day hikes and excursions) in our water reservoir or Nalgene bottles. Most dinners will be at the hotels (offering a 3-course fixed menu for groups). On one fun and engaging evening, we’ll prepare and cook our own 3-course gourmet meal!

The hotel settings offer a quaint ambiance, with the exception of the Bucaco Palace Hotel, where the diner may feel quite regal seated under an Arabic designed ceiling, with marbled columns, and ornate decor. Portuguese cuisine is hearty and wholesome, with vegetables (kale, collard greens, beans, onions, potatoes, and carrots). Portuguese bean soups are a “must-try” as they will fill your soul with comfort in addition to your stomach. Commonly served dishes include pork, chicken, and codfish. Vegetarian (non-vegan) preferences can be accommodated. On two occasions, participants will have time to explore the villages and towns and have lunch on their own. On one evening, in the village of Evora, participants will enjoy dinner on their own.

Trip Difficulty

This is a hiking and cultural trip that is suitable for active hikers who are in good health, and have good knees! Our trip includes nine days of hiking on varied terrain including village footpaths, paved and unpaved roads, through vineyards, hilly and rocky trails, cobblestone, and sandy coastal trails. We’ll ascend and descend sections of steep trail and footpaths. Hiking in sand may be unfamiliar to some. Our group pace will be adjusted to allow the group to stay together. In the villages and cities, we’ll be climbing up and down many stairs.

Participants should be comfortable hiking on uneven surfaces, into brushy woodland areas, crossing streambeds and marsh. Hiking in warmer temperatures can also increase the sense of difficulty on the activities. Participants will be encouraged to maintain their hydration, and wear lightweight wicking clothing and sun protection. On a few days of the trip, walking city tours and non-hiking activities (on the farm, boat ride, wine tasting) will make up the daily itinerary.

Equipment and Clothing

The climate in Portugal in May ranges from an average low temperature of 55 degrees Fahrenheit to an average high temperature of 85 degrees Fahrenheit (with warmer temps in the Douro River region). Rain showers are anticipated on some days. Please be sure to bring the following for hikes: hiking boots, a daypack, hiking poles, and a hat for sun protection. Casual wear and comfortable shoes are recommended for dining and walking in the towns. The leader will provide participants with a detailed clothing and gear list.

References

• Birmingham, David, A Concise History of Portugal, 3rd Edition.
• Hatton, Barry, The Portuguese: A Modern History.
• Hermano Saraiva, Jose, Portugal: A Companion History.

Conservation

As our journey through Portugal takes us to forests, mountains, prairies, and coastline, we’ll discuss the environmental concerns for each ecosystem. We’ll learn about the impacts of habitat loss and how it affects species survival for majestic animals like the Iberian wolf. We’ll learn how cork oak restoration projects are improving the health structure and density of forest habitats. We’ll learn about the Montado and agroforestry that is focused on conservation and agricultural sustainability. We’ll discuss how air and water quality is threatened by pollutants from industries, how the land and farming is threatened by desertification, and what measures the communities and country are taking to reduce these threats.

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff, encouraging grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward environmentally understanding parallel concerns at home and abroad.

Evacuation and Travel Insurance

The Sierra Club provides evacuation insurance to all participants on international trips. Since this coverage does not include any trip cancellation or interruption insurance, we suggest you purchase another policy separately to provide coverage for your trip and other travel costs. This policy also does not cover pre-trip and post-trip travel. Please note the evacuation insurance provided does not cover claims resulting from any pre-existing condition that occurs within 60 days of the trip departure. If you have specific questions about this exclusion, please review the insurance brochure. For information on purchasing a separate policy, please see our travel insurance page.