Waterfalls and Fall Foliage of the White Mountains, New Hampshire

The Trip

This remarkable area is characterized by tall mountains — often with bare rocky summits, deep glacial ravines, wide notches, diverse hardwood, and evergreen forests, boulder-filled cascading streams, and plentiful ponds, lakes, and waterfalls. The Whites have the largest alpine area in the East with 48 mountains over 4,000 feet. It is home to some of the best and most challenging hiking in the U.S. A section of the Appalachian Trail runs through the Whites. We will be hiking during the height of New England’s famed fall colors, which will add even more to the experience. The landscape will hopefully be filled by the autumn color palette: vibrant reds, yellows, and oranges.

We will be centrally located in Crawford Notch and will have our own space, the Shapleigh Bunkhouse, to call home. The bunkhouse is on the grounds of and part of the Appalachian Mountain Center’s (AMC) Highland Center, making the area a nexus for nature enthusiasts from all around the world. Even more convenient, we will have breakfast each day at the Highland Center main lodge, and we will have all dinners there as well. We will hike directly from Shapleigh or drive in cars to the day’s trailhead. The various day hikes will range from moderate to hard. We shall travel at a steady pace and, since we will be day hiking, our packs will be light. However, we do plan some strenuous hiking, so coming to the trip prepared is a must. Although the mileage may seem relatively short, the rocky surface and elevation gain and loss make the hikes physically demanding. Hiking trails in the White Mountains are steep, and often without switchbacks or trail improvements such as log cribs. Many trails follow stream beds, and stream crossings and rock slab descents are common. If you are uncomfortable with very steep and rocky descents, you may want to read more about the trails before committing to this trip.

We will be visiting the greater ancestral territory of the Abenaki and Wabanaki homeland.  The mountains still hear their songs with the drum and rattle.  The rivers carry the memory of their tears and prayers. The bones of their ancestors lie under our feet.  We are grateful for their presence throughout time.

The Abenaki believe that the tops of mountains are the dwelling place of the Gods. As visitors in their homeland, we are committed to a respectful and caretaking outing.

As will be the case on all hike days, alternate trails and plans may be used for numerous reasons, such as poor weather, access problems, or trail safety issues.

Day 1: (Sunday) We will meet at the Shapleigh Bunkhouse between 3:00-4:00 p.m. to settle in. At 4:00 p.m. we will assemble and introduce ourselves, describe the trip, answer questions, and conduct a tour of the grounds. At 6:00 p.m. we will eat dinner as a group at the Highland Center, less than 100 yards from the bunkhouse. After dinner, we will finish the orientation, describe in detail the following day’s plan, and check everyone’s gear. Quiet hours will begin at 9:30 p.m. so we are ready for our breakfast at 6:30 a.m. and our first hike tomorrow.

Day 2: (Monday) We will carpool about 15 minutes to the trailhead. We will hike up the Zealand Trail and see the Zealand River, Pond, and Falls on the way.  The area around Zealand Hut is a wonderful place to explore.  The hut is an off-the-grid bunkhouse staffed by crew members.  The “croo” maintains the facility and prepares hot meals for overnight guests and hot soup and baked goods for day visitors.  We will have our lunch at the hut and return by the same trail back to the trailhead.  The total distance will be 5.4 miles with a gain of 700 feet.  Hiking time should take 4 hours.   

Day 3: (Tuesday)  We will leave directly from the Highland Center hiking up the Avalon Trail along the Crawford Brook going over Mt Avalon (3442) and then up to Mt Field (4340) where we can have our lunch.  We will continue down the Willey Range Trail, the A-Z Trail, and back along the Avalon trial returning to the Highland Center. The total distance will be 5.3 miles with a gain of 2500 feet.  Hiking time should take 8 hours.

Day 4: (Wednesday) We will carpool about 45 minutes to the Appalachia Parking Lot.  We will hike up Valley Way along the Snyder Brook passing by Salroc Fall and Tama Fall and hike up Brookside Trail to Salmacis Fall where we can have our lunch.   We will continue down the Kelton Trail, Sylvan Way, and Valley Way back to the Appalachia Parking Lot.   The total distance will be 4.5 miles with a gain of 1600 feet.  Hiking time should take 6 hours.

Day 5: (Thursday)  We will carpool about 10 minutes to the trailhead.  We will hike up the Bemis Brook Trail and the Arethusa Falls Tail along the Bemis Brook leading us to the 176-foot-tall Arethusa Falls, the tallest waterfall in the state, where we can have our lunch.  We will continue along the Frankenstein Cliff Tail with beautiful views of Crawford Notch and return to the trailhead.  The total distance will be 4.5 miles with a gain of 1800 feet.  Hiking time should take 6 hours.    

Day 6: (Friday) We will leave directly from the Highland Center hiking up the Crawford Path, the oldest continuously maintained hiking path in the U.S., along Gibbs Brook and past the Gibbs Falls.  We will take the Mizpah Cutoff and stop by Mizpah Spring Hut where you can use the restrooms and get a snack.  We will continue on the Webster Cliff Trail, part of the Appalachian Trail, and summit Mt Jackson (4052), where we can have our lunch and view the southern Presidential Range including Mt Washington (6288), the highest peak in the Northeast.  We will continue along the Jackson Branch and the Webster Jackson Trail returning to the Highland Center.  The total distance will be 6.3 miles with a gain of 2200 feet.  Hiking time should take 8 hours.

Day 7: (Saturday) After breakfast we will say goodbye to our new trail friends. The area has a lot of great places to explore and experience, so please consider visiting some other interesting places before returning home.

Getting There

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

If you are flying in, Manchester Regional Airport (Manchester, NH) may be your best option at about 2 hours and 115 miles from the Highland Center. From Manchester, you can get a rental car and drive up to the AMC Highland Center. Local road directions to the Lodge are easily found online. Boston Logan Airport is a longer drive but will have more availability for flights and car rentals. Logan is about 2.5 hours and 165 miles from the Highland Center.

There is limited commercial bus and train service in the White Mountains. Concord Coach Lines reaches Franconia, NH. Amtrak trains and thruway connecting services reach Littleton, NH.

To encourage carpooling we will share fellow participants' contact information.

Accommodations and Food

The Shapleigh Bunkhouse originates from the late 1800s and is set up hostel-style, but we will be the only group occupying the modern, three-room bunkhouse with electricity, hot running water, flush toilets, and showers. This provides us with a comfortable, group-centric environment. Shapleigh is also set in a convenient location with beautiful surroundings. The bunkhouse shares facilities and services with the AMC Highland Center Lodge, so it will be a nice balance of independence and support for us.

Please disclose your dietary needs and preferences when completing your trip form.  We will be eating breakfast and dinner at the AMC Highland Center Lodge where the food is served buffet-style.  Lunch will be the responsibility of each participant with the option of purchasing their lunch for the day from the Highland Center.

Trip Difficulty

Hiking in the White Mountains is always challenging, but worth the effort.  The trails are steep with rocks, tree roots, and mud on practically every trail.  If you are only familiar with hiking on graded trails this trip will be quite an adjustment.  You will need to be in very good shape and should be able to comfortably hike 6 miles over rough terrain. Although the trip has a mix of shorter and longer hikes, some easier and some more strenuous, it is important to note that the most difficult hikes are 5 to 6 miles in length, at 4000-foot altitude, with up to 2500 feet of elevation gain and take 8 hours to complete.

Chilly temperatures, clouds, strong winds, dense fog, and rapid changes in conditions (especially in the mountains) characterize the weather in the White Mountains at this time of year. Snow may already be on the ground in September and likely will be a minor factor on the trip. We cannot control the weather, but we can be prepared for it. In the Whites, early October temperatures in the valleys range from highs in the mid-50s to mid-60s to lows in the mid-30s to mid-40s. As a general guide, a typical decline of about 3 degrees takes place for every 1,000-foot ascent. If it’s in the mid-50s at the bottom of a mountain it may be 10-15 degrees colder at the top. Wind speeds of 40 mph are common, making the wind chill factor quite significant. These are serious mountains. Safety is paramount and everyone needs to be prepared for rain, high winds, cold weather, and even sleet and snow. 

Needless to say, the leaders will be prepared for a safe, challenging, but enjoyable trip, and will carefully monitor the weather reports and adjust plans accordingly. Each evening everyone on our trip shall meet after dinner for an assessment and discuss the plans for the next day. Routes may be adjusted for the group’s safety and well-being. 

Leaders shall contact registered participants by phone or video to discuss the trip in detail, answer questions, and help determine whether this outing is the right one for them.

Equipment and Clothing

A list of clothing and equipment will be provided to registered participants. 

You should have comfortable, broken-in hiking boots or sturdy hiking shoes, non-cotton hiking clothes, and a durable daypack big enough for an all-day hike in changing weather conditions. Potable water will be available at the bunkhouse and lodge, but not on the trail. Bring enough refillable bottles or hydration bladders to keep you hydrated through the day. A thermos with hot drinks may also be nice to have. Hiking poles to help walk and balance on the rocky trails are strongly suggested. Capture the colorful views with a camera! Bring some casual clothes to change into after a warm shower at the end of the day. 

While hiking we will need to carry or wear several layers of clothing and be ready for the elements, so rain gear, warm clothes for freezing temperatures, micro-spikes, and such need to be brought on the trip, if not carried every day. As we start up a trail we will take a break after about 20 minutes to remove a layer or add one, thereby regulating our perspiration and comfort. Before reaching the exposed windy zones we will stop to put on an additional layer or windbreaker to protect us from the wind chill. Warm gloves and a hat should always be handy.

What to take and how to pack will be discussed on the first evening and before every hike.

References

Maps:

A variety of publishers produce maps of the White Mountains.

• Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC), White Mountains Trail Map -- Crawford Notch To Sandwich Range & Moosilauke To Kinsman Ridge.
• Map Adventures, White Mountains Hiking Trail Map.
• National Geographic Trails Illustrated 
• White Mountain National Forest West, #740 (Franconia Notch, Lincoln)
• White Mountain National Forest East, #741 (Presidential Range, Gorham)

Books:

• Buchsbaum, R.N., AMC’s Best Day Hikes in the White Mountains.
• Marchand, Peter J., Nature Guide to the Northern Forests. 

Conservation

This area has been a domestic and international travel destination for quite some time by U.S. standards. The White Mountain area has seen several purposes since early European settlement. The idea of sustainable, multipurpose land use through the implementation of nature-based solutions is a topic that is very relevant and current to the area: With millions of people visiting the area annually, how can its character be maintained, nature-supported, and still allow existing communities to prosper? Or, for example, how can we make the area accessible for people with all mobility levels and from every socioeconomic group? How can the area that serves the large resorts, golf courses, and ski resorts, equitably and sustainably serve a growing local population? Can these demands be balanced?

The loser in the land-use equation is ultimately, in almost all cases, nature. It is also rare that an area, once developed, goes back at some point to a non-developed state. There are a few exceptions, and there are areas that are repurposed — redeveloped for impacts that are not so damaging to nature. Even with the stated exceptions, the area does not go back to a mature state of nature for a long time. We will discuss these issues and try to present some ideas that may at least slow down the loss of non-developed land. It's important to remember that even lands that may only have hiking trails and huts on them are still considered developed and that these too stress nature. There are European models of sustainable land use that have been implemented and seem workable with support.

We will present some of these topics and have a participant-driven discussion of the pros and cons of “land management," how important an issue this is, and whether it’s too late for many areas to change or be protected.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.