Backpacking the Bob Marshall Wilderness, Montana's Wildest Place

The Trip

“There is just one hope of repulsing the tyrannical ambition of civilization to conquer every niche on the whole earth. That hope is the organization of spirited people who will fight for the freedom of the wilderness. In a civilization which requires most lives to be passed amid inordinate dissonance, pressure and intrusion, the chance of retiring now and then to the quietude and privacy of sylvan haunts becomes for some people a psychic necessity. The preservation of a few samples of undeveloped territory is one of the most clamant issues before us today. Just a few more years of hesitation and the only trace of that wilderness which has exerted such a fundamental influence in molding American character will lie in the musty pages of pioneer books…To avoid this catastrophe demands immediate action.” - Robert Marshall, “Impressions from the Wilderness," Nature Magazine, 44 (1951)

The National Forest Service describes the Bob Marshall Wilderness (or just “the Bob”) as “one of the most completely preserved mountain ecosystems in the world, the kind of wilderness most people can only imagine: rugged peaks, alpine lakes, cascading waterfalls, grassy meadows embellished with shimmering streams, a towering coniferous forest and big river valleys.” Located just below Glacier National Park, this million-acre wilderness is part of the larger Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex, composed of the Bob, the Scapegoat Wilderness (240,00 acres), and the Great Bear Wilderness (290,000 acres). Together, these three wilderness areas comprise the third largest wilderness area in the lower 48 states.

On our adventure, we’ll follow several beautiful river valleys; view jagged peaks, reefs, and vistas; and bask in the wilderness. Our main goal is the Prairie Point Lookout, where we’ll be able to see the famous Chinese Wall, a 1,000-foot, 40-mile-long escarpment that is the result of an upheaval, creating a split from Glacier Park almost down to Yellowstone Park. We’ll be able to see Sphinx Peak and Cliff Mountain from the same lookout. We will take a layover day to ascend to this point without packs. If we are lucky, we might see some of the area’s wildlife, which includes wolverines, wolves, moose, deer, elk, mountain goats, mountain sheep, mountain lions, black bears, and grizzly bears.

Originally protected as primitive areas in 1941, this wilderness complex was designated in 1964 as part of the original group of lands in the Wilderness Act. It was named to honor Bob Marshall, the co-founder of the Wilderness Society who worked tirelessly to protect and preserve primitive land in the lower 48 states as well as Alaska. He often took “day hikes” of 40 miles. Though we will figuratively walk in his footsteps: we won’t try to match his mileage with our full packs. Plan on five hiking days with packs and one day without packs for a total trip mileage of around 40 miles.

As John Muir, the founder of the Sierra Club, wrote, “Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity.” Come home with us on this outing.

Please note: There are two trips running in August. 18124A follows this itinerary and 18124B runs in reverse.

The trip will be a loop so you can return to your vehicles. Please understand that the route may need to be changed for your safety, depending on trail conditions, weather, or the group’s ability.

Day 1: This will be our arrival day. Dinner will be included. We will camp tonight west of sleepy Choteau, Montana at the Benchmark Campground near the Straight Creek Trailhead where we will begin our journey.

Day 2: Beginning at the Straight Creek Trailhead we’ll follow Straight Creek turning at its junction with Hoadley Creek in the Scapegoat Wilderness for about 6 miles, camping for the night in the shadow of Scarlett Mountain.

Day 3: Today, we’ll have a bit of a climb up Hoadley Reef after leaving Hoadley Creek. We’ll see Grizzly Basin to our right, camping along the banks of the East Fork of Ahorn Creek, our first night in the “Bob." Twin Peaks will be to our left. 6-7 miles.

Day 4: We’ll continue along Ahorn Creek to its junction with the West Fork of the South Fork of the Sun River and the Continental Divide Trail. 7 miles today. We’ll camp here for two nights.

Day 5: No packs today! We’ll climb to Prairie Pointe Lookout where we can see the Chinese Wall, Sphinx Peak, and Cliff Mountain, inspiring us for a return to this wonderful land and new adventures. The climb will be about 3,300 feet and we’ll walk about 11 miles, round-trip.

Day 6: It'll be easy walking today down the valley of the West Fork of the South Fork of the Sun River and the Continental Divide Trail, which we’ll follow for our last two days. We’ll go 6-8 miles today, depending on how we feel about fishing and delaying our departure.

Day 7: Last day. We’ll continue as the day before along the river until it flows into the main body of the South Fork of the Sun River, about 4-6 miles depending on how far we got yesterday, finishing at the eponymously named trailhead. Breakfast and lunch will be provided as we’ll be leaving the “Bob” until the next time.

Getting There

Everyone should be at Benchmark Campground, west of Choteau, Montana, on day one (Sunday) by 4:00 p.m. We’ll have an orientation, review packing suggestions, and eat dinner together. Dinner that day will be the first meal provided on the trip. The trip leader recommends flying into Great Falls Airport. If you prefer to arrive elsewhere or you are driving, please notify the leader. The distance from Great Falls to our trailhead is 84 miles; the first 54 miles is on major highways, and the last 30 miles is on secondary Forest Service roads. From Choteau, the trailhead is 56 miles, and about two hours' driving time. We recommend arriving a day or two before the trip (to ensure that no travel problems prevent you from joining us and to acclimate if you are a flatlander like the trip leader) and staying at one of several small motels in or near Choteau.

We finish the trip on Saturday. Participants should not book return flights until the day following the end of the trip (Sunday). We hope to be back to the trailhead by 4:00 p.m. on our last hiking day.

The leader will provide more information and driving directions for approved participants. Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader.

Accommodations and Food

The trip leader believes in eating well on hiking trips and plan for a variety of tasty, nutritious food. Meals may include meat or fish, but will be adapted for vegetarians. Please let the leader know if you are a vegetarian as he needs to know before he buys the food. As everyone has different tastes, we will ask participants about food and drink preferences before finalizing the menu. We will not supply snacks or drinks on the trail during the day as people have diverse preferences. Please bring your own trail snacks so that you can enjoy what you like and fulfill your caloric needs on the trail.

The trip price includes all meals from dinner on day one through lunch on the last day, as well as use of group camping gear. We will prepare simple, lightweight, easy-to-prepare, good-tasting meals from dried and freeze-dried ingredients, using recipes tested on previous Sierra Club trips. Any food allergies or limitations must be indicated to the leader as far in advance of the trip as possible. Participants will share cooking and clean-up activities with guidance as necessary from the trip staff.

Accommodations before and after the trip are not included in the trip. 

Trip Difficulty

This trip is rated 3 on a scale of 1 to 5. We will be on established trails. The difficulty rating reflects the distances expected and the elevation gain and loss on our more challenging days. Trip participants should have backpacking experience and the ability to carry a fully loaded (40- to 45-pound) backpack. Before adding food and water, you should shoot for pack weight of less than 20-25 pounds. We will use bear canisters. Weight of group gear you are asked to carry may be adjusted to account for body weight. No climbing experience is required.

Water will be readily available along our route; we’ll have a group filter (for commissary only) at camp and purification tablets available during the day. Anything is possible with weather; the mountains make their own weather. Come prepared for anything, as you would on any backpack trip.

The demands of the trip require good physical conditioning and a sense of adventure.  Likewise, wilderness travel can go as planned or unforeseen conditions or circumstances can necessitate a change in plans, so please bring a flexible attitude with you on the trip. With these three traits, the rest will work out!

Equipment and Clothing

Trip members furnish their own backpack, sleeping bag, tent and other personal gear, including eating utensils. This must not weigh more than 25 pounds -– and if you can keep it below 20 pounds, all the better. The Club will provide commissary equipment, including pots, stoves, cooking utensils, and all food.  We will have a group first-aid kit; you should bring personal supplies and medications (particularly blister supplies). You must bring mosquito repellent, sunscreen, water bottle(s), a hat with a brim, and clothing suitable for possible rain and cold, along with well broken-in hiking boots.

A detailed equipment checklist will be sent to approve participants.

To enjoy this adventure to the fullest, you're also asked to come equipped with a flexible and positive attitude, as well as a healthy sense of humor.

References

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Conservation

The area we’ll visit has been “permanently” protected by a Wilderness designation, but the majority of Montana’s roadless areas have no such legal protection and are under continuous pressure of encroachment.

We’ll be in an ideal locale to reflect on the role this area plays in the Yellowstone-to-Yukon movement, as embodied in the proposed Rockies Prosperity Act. This act will define and establish corridors for flora and fauna in a novel approach.

Extractive industries continue to greedily eye the Rocky Mountain front, and past inroads have already taken their toll. We know that decisions are temporary and can be changed by new administrations and new government officials. We cannot consider existing wilderness designation to be permanent as far as threats from oil and gas exploration or hard rock mining industries are concerned. As we drive from Choteau, we’ll pass through the last home of the plains grizzly. Drilling in this area was turned back a few years ago only by an outcry by local citizen groups while national focus was on areas like the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

We will discuss and practice minimal impact camping techniques. We may encounter a variety of different user groups, and will consider the proper respect due others, a cornerstone of Montana’s traditional Western ethic.

Many evenings, we will take time to discuss national and local environmental issues. You are encouraged to come prepared to introduce any topics of local or national interest.

The areas we will visit are among the most remote in the Lower 48, yet we’ll still see evidence of other users. We’ll have a magnificent setting to reflect on the question: “How much wilderness is enough?”

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.