Backpacking Yellowstone's Cascade Corner, Wyoming

The Trip

 When mountain man John Colter told others that "spouts of water and steam erupted at intervals" and "hell bubbled up," news magazines responded, “Thank you, but we do not print fiction.” What they termed "Colter's Hell" sits atop a dormant volcano and is home to more geysers and hot springs than any other place on Earth. Wonders abound at this truly unique national park, from sights like the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone to wildlife like America’s largest buffalo herd, grizzly bears, and wolves. Our trip will explore the most extraordinary collection of hot springs, geysers, mud pots, fumaroles, and waterfalls on Earth.

Yellowstone's 2.2 million acres (about the size of Connecticut) is an intact ecosystem that boasts 67 species of mammals (including bison, bears, pronghorn, and gray wolf) and about 1,350 species of flowering plants. It sits on a geothermal hotspot that provides the heat necessary to drive the phenomenal hydrothermal features and volcanic activity in the park. While Yellowstone has over 1,000 miles of hiking trails, the majority of the Park’s visitors do not leave the roadside to view its colorful splendor, wildlife, and hidden secrets.

Our trip will provide an immersive, on-site educational experience. We'll learn how the myriad thermal features form, how to explain the reasons they have their vivid colors and why they constantly change, and about the inhabitants of this extraordinary wildlife habitat while enjoying countless spectacular waterfalls and soaking in riverside hot springs.

Our trip will explore the most dramatic and scenic terrain in the Yellowstone ecosystem. The route and itinerary described below should be taken as a general plan, and the actual details may depart from this plan as conditions dictate. How far we get each day and where we camp will depend on snow conditions, stream runoff, progress (and whims) of the group, campsite availability, and other factors that may require the leaders to make adjustments. Please plan to be flexible and bring a good sense of humor to the trip — you can be assured of having a memorable and satisfying adventure!

Day 1: Rendezvous at Madison Campground

We’ll gather at 4:00 p.m. on Saturday afternoon (the day before our hiking begins) to get acquainted, inspect gear, distribute commissary, discuss our adventure, and shuttle a vehicle to our exit trailhead.

Day 2: Day Hiking notable Yellowstone sites:

Our first day will be a series of short day hikes to several of the park's spectacular features before we hoist our packs the following day. Our first stop will be a hike to circumvent the awe-inspiring Norris Geyser Basin – the hottest, oldest, and most dynamic of Yellowstone's thermal areas. Next, we'll take a short, steep hike down into the multi-hued Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone to the dramatic crest of the lower falls. Our final stop will provide an extraordinary view of the Grand Prismatic Spring. We'll return to the nearby Madison campground for the evening.

Day 3: Old Faithful, Lone Star Geyser and Shoshone Lake.

After driving to the Old Faithful parking lot trailhead, we'll watch this famously predictable geyser erupt before donning our packs and entering the backcountry. Our walk through a mixture of forest and meadowland leads us to the largest backcountry geyser in the park – Lone Star Geyser. We continue our hike along the Firehole River and over the Continental Divide before arriving at our camp in Shoshone Meadows. After dropping our packs and setting up camp, we'll hike without packs to the western shore of scenic Shoshone Lake, one of the largest wilderness lakes in the Lower 48. Along the way, we'll visit the pristine Shoshone Geyser Basin. Its 100+ jewel-like thermal features include the aptly named Minute Man Geyser (eruption intervals of one to three minutes), several other regularly erupting geysers, and a variety of hot springs, bubbling pools, and frothing potholes. The water in the pools has a range of blue-grey tints, while the cyanobacteria inhabiting the springs and their run-off channels display bright shades of red, green, and yellow. Hike: 6.3 miles to camp, then 5 miles without packs to visit Shoshone Lake & Geyser Basin. Elevation Gain: 400'. Elevation Loss: 150'.

Day 4: Bechler Canyon and Mr. Bubbles

Today begins with a climb to a plateau of lush meadows and thick forests. We then continue to the headwaters of the Bechler River and into Bechler Canyon. After making camp near Three River Junction, we’ll take a short walk to soak in “Mr. Bubbles,” a 4' deep pool in the Ferris Fork River heated to 110 degrees F by steam bubbles from a fumarole. Hike: 8.5 miles Elevation Gain: 600' Elevation Loss: 1,100'.

Day 5: Colonnade and Iris Falls

Today's experience entails two river crossings that can be as deep as three feet. Proper techniques for safe river crossings will be explained and practiced. Highlights of the day include two of the features that account for this area's moniker of Cascade Corner: Colonnade and Iris Falls. The former is a double-plunge of the Bechler River, with the 35' high upper falls leading to a second 67' waterfall. The spray from Iris Falls often creates a rainbow, possibly accounting for its name association with the Greek and Roman female goddess of the rainbow. Camp is a short walk from Colonnade Falls. Hike: 5 miles. Elevation Gain: 200'. Elevation Loss: 900'.

Day 6: Dunanda Falls and Boundary Creek Hot Springs

Our last day in the canyon crosses fields rich with trailside berries to scavenge, so we might sight a black bear or two. As we approach Ouzel Creek, the canyon opens up into beautiful Bechler Meadows. To the north, the vista reveals 230' Ouzel Falls cascading off the Madison Plateau to join the Bechler River. We'll skirt the northern boundary of the meadows and head up Boundary Creek to make camp at the stunning 150' Dunanda Falls. A short walk takes us to a final soak in a natural 110-degree hot spring. Hike: 7 miles Elevation gain 600'. Elevation Loss: 500'. 

Day 7: Bechler Ranger Station — exit

Our hike to the trailhead at the Bechler Ranger Station takes us through the heart of Bechler Meadows, an area that boasts one of the Park’s largest concentrations of moose and beaver. Deer, elk, black bear, and wolves also inhabit the area, along with an occasional grizzly. The Bechler wolf pack that originated in 2003 ranges throughout the area. Bald eagles, osprey, waterfowl, muskrats, river otters, coyotes, and sandhill cranes can also be found in the meadows. A 3-hour drive back to our cars provides an opportunity to reflect on our experience and share memories of Yellowstone. Hike: 8 miles. Elevation gain 300' Elevation Loss: 500'.

Please do not schedule your flight until after 7:00 p.m., as the day's hike, long van ride back to our cars, and travel time to the airport make earlier flights impractical.

Getting There

The closest airports are Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport and Jackson Hole Airport, each about 100 miles from our campground. Note that airfare, train, bus, car rental, and other modes of transportation to and from our lodge are not included in the trip price. The trip leader will provide contact information of other participants to aid in arranging carpooling if desired.

Please do not make travel arrangements until the leader has confirmed you as a trip member.

Accommodations and Food

 All on-trip meals, beginning with breakfast on Sunday and ending with lunch on our last day, are included in the trip fee.

The menu consists of low-bulk, lightweight foods that are simple to prepare and use a minimum of commissary gear. Generally, we will have hot or cold cereal for breakfast, dinners will usually be one-pot meals with soup to start and a light dessert to finish. Vegetarians can be accommodated, but more restrictive diets may be difficult to accommodate on this trip. Contact the leader prior to signing up to determine if we can accommodate your specific needs without impacting the group. We provide tablets for participants to treat water. Bear canisters will be used, and all personal snacks and some toiletries (e.g., toothpaste) can fill no more than a one-quart Ziplock bag.

Trail snacks and hot drinks (hot water available at breakfast and dinner) are not included; we’ve found that both of these (preferences and amounts) are distinctly individualistic, so we leave it up to the participants to provide their own. Participants are responsible for lodging and meals before and after the trip.

Trip Difficulty

 This is a moderately strenuous hike for experienced backpackers in excellent physical condition. The trip difficulty is rated 3 on a scale from 1 to 5, where a rating of 5 would denote the most difficult Sierra Club trips. The trip difficulty of 3 is an average rating for the trip as a whole. Some days will feel harder, as some sections are steep, rugged, and rocky, with occasional vertical exposure. Our hike each day will range from 5 to 9 miles at elevations of 5,000 to 8,000 feet and with daily elevation gains or losses of 1,000 feet. Some trail sections have exposed roots or rocks or can be muddy after rain. Optional day hikes add more miles and elevation gain.

Our route through the bear, bison, wolf, and other large wildlife habitats with occasional geothermal danger demands that we remain together as a group, adhering to the park’s wildlife encounter safety protocol. Accordingly, hikers must be capable of maintaining a reasonable hiking pace, so that we get to our next camp by early/mid-afternoon. To ensure adequate fitness for this trip, hikers must commit to regular aerobic activity three or more days per week. To help build sport-specific endurance, frequent hikes of eight to 10 miles that gain 1,000 feet of elevation a few months before the trip will be essential. Some of those hikes should include a 35 lb backpack.

This is a group trip whose success relies upon the cheerful, active contribution and ‘good humor’ of all participants. Traveling in a group invariably involves compromise to accommodate the diverse interests, travel goals, personalities, and physical abilities of all participants. Trip leaders may be required to improvise and exercise good faith, use discretion, and/or make decisions based on weather conditions, trail/route conditions, group fitness level, and group consensus. These decisions may not always please everyone, but they are intended to satisfy the desires of the group and comply with the intended goals, safety, and spirit of the trip. If you feel you do not have such flexibility then solo travel may be the appropriate alternative. Remember, on group trips, you give up some autonomy, independence, and authority. You will assist with cooking, cleaning, sanitation, camp set up, and break down. We will be following a Leave No Trace ethic in all aspects of our journey.

Our itinerary is tentative and subject to change depending on trail conditions, weather, and the abilities of the group. To enjoy this adventure to the fullest, come with a flexible and positive attitude and a good sense of humor.

Equipment and Clothing

The Sierra Club will provide food, pots, cooking utensils, stoves, fuel, bear-proof canisters, a first-aid kit (used only for emergencies), bear spray, and water purification treatment. At the beginning of the trip, you will be issued one bear canister loaded with food and a portion of the group gear, which together may weigh up to 12-14 lbs.

Personal gear is limited to 22 pounds or less (including your pack), so that your total pack weight is less than 40 pounds, including up to two liters of water, which can account for almost five pounds. Your pack needs to have the capacity to carry your share of group gear, which will include one bear can and one or two gear items (e.g., fuel bottles or bulky pots). Although this trip isn't technically ultralight, the trip leaders will employ (and teach to those interested) modern backpacking techniques to lighten our packs and quicken our pace. Packs that are too heavy are a leading reason for discomfort and slow progress in the backcountry. The leader will send detailed equipment recommendations to participants well before the trip.

Known for its temperate summer weather, Yellowstone can also experience sudden, unexpected spells of rain, hail, snow, heat, and cold. Daytime temperatures can soar into the upper 80s, while nighttime temperatures can dip into the 20s or lower. It is essential that you be prepared for extremes in weather conditions, and also be flexible so that we can adapt our route to accommodate unexpected conditions or events. Bring clothes that can be layered, rain gear, hiking boots, or shoes that are already broken in.

References

• Schneider, Bill. Hiking Yellowstone National Park. Helena, MT: Morris Book Publishing, LLC. 2012.
• Haines, Aubrey L., Yellowstone National Park: Its Exploration and Establishment. U.S. Department of the Interior National Park Service, Washington.
• 1974. http://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/haines1/iee1b.htm Dilsaver, Larry. America's National Park System: The Critical Documents. Rowman & Littlefield Publishers. 1994. http://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/anps/index.htm Geyser and Hot Spring. Science Clarified.
• 2015. http://www.scienceclarified.com/landforms/Faults-to-Mountains/Geyser-and-HotSpring.html Yellowstone National Park Mammals. National Park Service US Department of the Interior. 2015. http://www.nps.gov/yell/learn/nature/mammals.htm

Conservation

Yellowstone National Park and the Greater Yellowstone ecosystem are facing several conservation issues today. As in so many wild areas, the clash between wilderness preservation and human use is evident in many ways:

• Migration of bison out of the park on roads used by snowmobiles and other vehicles. They are often shot once they leave the park because they carry brucellosis, a bacterial disease of concern to the cattle industry.
• Reintroduction of the gray wolf to the park, which sparked vocal opposition from local interests.
• Introduction of exotic trout species in Yellowstone Lake.
• The impact of human visitation (over 3 million people per year, 20,000 per summer day) on wildlife, thermal features, and other natural resources.

Greater Yellowstone’s location at the convergence of the Great Plains, Great Basin, and Plateau Indian cultures means that many tribes have a traditional connection to the land and its resources. For thousands of years, before Yellowstone became a national park, it was a place where people hunted, fished, gathered plants, quarried obsidian, and used the thermal waters for religious and medicinal purposes. Kiowa, Blackfeet, Cayuse, Coeur d'Alene, Shoshone, Nez Perce, and other tribes are all believed to have explored and utilized the park for its abundant resources at some point in their recent history, within the past several hundred years. We acknowledge that these lands carry the stories of these Nations. We recognize Elders past and present as people who have cared for, and continue to care for, the land.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal opportunity provider and will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.