Canoeing the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument, Montana

The Trip

You will become accustomed to wide, sweeping vistas under the big, blue Montana sky and the endless expanse of the Milky Way during these five days canoeing and four nights camping on the Missouri River. Surrounded in a deep, peaceful silence perfumed by sagebrush, you may imagine cathedrals and castles in the rock bluffs and formations cradling the Missouri River or see visions of Native Americans, French, Spanish, and British voyageurs and Lewis & Clark exploring this river valley. Like those early explorers, we will also experience a Missouri River in its natural state with ever-changing sandbars and braided channels, beautiful cliffs, and minimal evidence of civilization.

Since we will paddle only three to seven hours each day, with frequent breaks, we have plenty of time for exploration and leisure. Each day we can enjoy scenic side hikes, photography, fishing, wildlife viewing, relaxing, conversation, swimming, or simply calming our minds and refreshing our spirits in the raw, wild American West beauty.

“Congress designated 149 miles of the Upper Missouri as a component of the National Wild and Scenic River System in 1976, calling it an irreplaceable legacy of the historic American West.  Congress further stated that the river, with its immediate environments, possesses outstanding scenic, recreational, geological, fish and wildlife, historic, cultural, and other similar values. BLM was directed to preserve the Upper Missouri River in a free-flowing condition and protect it for the benefit of present and future generations. The boundary starts at Fort Benton, Montana, and runs 149 miles downstream ending at the James Kipp Recreation Area.” https://www.blm.gov/mt/st/en/prog/nlcs_new/UMRB_NM.html

Due to lodging reservation/cancellation fees, trip logistics, and food purchases, sign-ups are required before August 1, 2017. 

The leaders prefer intermediate to experienced paddlers but will consider sign-ups by less experienced paddlers. Before signup, don't hesitate to contact or send any questions about the trip to the leaders. Lodging, canoe rental, permits, meals (including restaurant meals), admission fees, boating maps, and other expenses are included.  

≈ 7 days before Rally Day 1 Trailhead Talk

Approximately seven days before Rally Day, you will attend a mandatory Trailhead Talk conference call from the comfort of your home. The leaders will discuss logistics, expectations, food, gear, etc.  Expect the call to last an hour, so find a phone with a good quality connection, charge your cell phone battery, get someplace quiet and comfortable, and have a pen and paper available. Questions or concerns will be addressed after the briefing.

Rally Day 1

Please schedule your airline flights and driving times to arrive in Great Falls, Montana on time. This may require you departing your hometown one or more days in advance and/or traveling on an overnight flight. Alaska Airlines, Allegiant Air, Delta Airlines, and United Airlines service the Great Falls International Airport.

The leaders will be staying at the Motel 6, 2 Treasure State Drive, Great Falls, MT 59404, phone (406) 453-1602. The Motel 6 offers a cold continental breakfast, free airport shuttle, and shares facilities with the Best Western. While we wait for everyone to arrive in Great Falls, we can get to know each other, check personal and group gear, do any final packing, stage our gear, etc. While in Great Falls, trips can be made to purchase additional supplies or gear.

The outing begins when we meet in the Motel 6 lobby at 9:00 a.m. Please arrive having eaten breakfast (not included in trip price).

Then we’ll load up and drive our vehicles to tour the Lewis & Clark Interpretative Center in Great Falls (admission included in trip price) http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/lcnf/recarea/?recid=61458  We’ll spend a couple of leisurely hours at the center learning about the Lewis & Clark expedition, Missouri River and the region’s cultural and natural history. 

Once finished touring, we will drive to Ft. Benton for a restaurant lunch (included in trip price). We’ll head towards Loma and given time, take a short hike up to Lewis & Clark’s Decision Point. “From this low but stunning vantage point one can imagine seeing the Corp of Discovery camped in the river bottom below. Lewis and Clark took 10 days (June 3-12, 1805) to decide which river would lead them to the northwest passage.”  http://www.visitmt.com/listings/general/national-historic-site/decision-point.html, http://www.travelmt.com/mt_sites_11813_Decision+Point.html

After leaving Decision Point, we’ll go to Woods Bottom Access. There we’ll unload our paddling and camping gear and set up camp. We’ll fix dinner while other paddlers shuttle our vehicles down to the Virgelle Mercantile.  For the duration of the outing our vehicles will be parked at the Virgelle Mercantile, awaiting our return on September 1.

Woods Bottom Access: Vault toilet. Meals included: Lunch, Dinner.

Day 2 (Float start, River Mile (RM) 20.3 to 41.5, Woods Bottom Access to Coal Banks Landing)

Let’s Paddle! This morning or the previous afternoon our canoe outfitter will deliver the canoes and canoe gear to us at Woods Bottoms Access. We’ll load up the canoes and start downriver. We have approximately 21 miles ahead of us (the longest mileage of the trip) and, barring strong easterly winds, we should be able to cover that distance in five to seven hours.

If on Rally Day we did not hike up to Decision Point, we can stop under the Loma Bridge to take the hike or take a short paddle up the Marias River to look back up at Decision Point.

Once back on the Missouri River, we’ll pass Fort Piegan.

At Coal Banks we’ll set up camp for the night (free Wi-Fi) and enjoy a hearty dinner. If we’ve forgotten something, now is the time to get it: our vehicles are just one and a half miles from Coal Banks, an easy walk.

Note: In the event of unfavorable strong easterly winds and in consultation with canoe outfitter, we may start at Coal Banks Landing and then proceed on the rest of the route as planned.

Campground host, WiFi, pit toilets. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 3 (RM 41.5 to 56.0, Coal Banks Landing to Eagle Creek)

After a hearty breakfast, we’re back on the river and entering the famous White Cliffs section. We’ll take a side hike at Little Sandy to view some ancient stone tipi rings, linger to enjoy the White Cliff’s coulees and rock formations, and hike up to Horse Thief Cabin.

Eventually we’ll reach Eagle Creek. With LaBarge Rock towering over our shoulders, we’ll set up camp. 

While encamped, either this day or the next, we will explore Neat Coulee (http://www.greatfallstribune.com/story/outdoors/2016/10/26/ascending-neat-coulee/92709048/)

; visit Lewis & Clark’s May 31, 1805, campsite; search for ancient Native American petroglyphs and; cross the river to visit the former location of the Eye of the Needle.

Pit toilets and shelter house. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 4 (RM 56 to 63, Eagle Creek to Hole-in-the-Wall)

An easy paddling day! After breakfast, we’ll have time to explore Neat Coulee, Lewis & Clark’s May 31, 1805, campsite, or cross the river to visit the former location of the Eye of the Needle. Then we’re back in the canoes, paddling past the Great Natural Wall, through Kipp’s Rapids, and past the magnificent Citadel Rock before arriving at Hole-in-the-Wall camp.

We’ll set up camp and then hike up to Hole-in-the-Wall. Once there, we’ll enjoy an unforgettable vista that stretches for miles over the Missouri River valley and surrounding plains. It is quite spectacular!

Pit toilet and shelter house. Meals iIncluded: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 5 (RM 63 to 76.65, Hole-in-the-Wall to Slaughter River)

Another easy paddling day! We’ll enjoy breakfast, then pack up, and paddle to see The Seven Sisters, Valley of the Walls, Dark Butte, Lidstone Ferry Crossing. We can peek to see who’s home at the Lidstone Ferry prairie dog town, check out Lewis & Clark’s May 30, 1805 campsite, shoot the Pablo Rapids, and pass Wolf Island before reaching Slaughter River camp.

Once in camp at Slaughter River, we can hike down to see the Sneath Bottom prairie dog town and also check out the location of Lewis & Clark’s May 29, 1805 and June 29, 1806, campsites.

Pit toilets and shelter house. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 6 (RM 76.65 to 88.7, Slaughter River to Judith Landing)

Today’s our last paddle day and we’ll be leaving the White Cliffs section. Let’s take a break to see the Wall Camp prairie dog town, pass through Deadman’s Rapids, and float past the Judith River delta before passing under the Highway 236 bridge and our take out at Judith Landing. 

At Judith Landing, our canoe outfitter will meet us and shuttle our gear and us back to the Virgelle Mercantile Bed & Breakfast. We should have time to check out Lewis & Clarks’ May 28, 1805, campsite.

At the Virgelle B&B we will sleep in authentic, local log cabins or sheepherders wagon or B&B rooms (included in trip price). The Virgelle B&B has a shower facility and indoor toilets.  What luxury after roughing it!

Pit toilets and shelter house. Virgelle B&B has a shower facility and indoor toilets. Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

Day 7 (Trip end)

We’ll have a wonderful breakfast cooked by the Virgelle B&B (included in trip price). We’ll sort and pack our gear, load up our vehicles, and coordinate shuttles. Then we exchange farewells and hugs, reluctantly returning to our modern lives enriched by our adventure.

Indoor toilets and shower facility. Meals included: Breakfast.

Getting There

We will be meeting at 9:00 a.m. on Sunday, August 27th, in the lobby of the Motel 6 in Great Falls. Participants must arrange their own transportation to Great Falls and motel reservations. Trip leaders can help by providing emails of potential carpool partners so that you can arrange sharing car rentals and rides with other participants.

Sign-ups are required before August 1, 2017, due to lodging reservation/cancellation fees, trip logistics, and food purchases. Before sign-up don't hesitate to send any questions about the trip to the leaders.

Book your flights in and out of Great Falls, Montana. Alaska Airlines, Allegiant Air, Delta Airlines, and United Airlines service the Great Falls International Airport. Please schedule your airline flights and driving times to arrive on time. This may require you departing your hometown one or more days in advance and/or traveling on an overnight flight. 

Do not book any return flights for Day 6, as the leaders will not be able to guarantee a time that we arrive back at the Virgelle Mercantile. For outbound flights on day 7, anticipate a 1 hour 15 minute drive from the Virgelle Mercantile to Great Falls.

Driving:

Carpooling is eco-friendly and encouraged, but it is the participant's responsibility to arrange for carpooling or car-sharing with other participants. The leaders cannot arrange carpools for participants.

Rental car agencies are located at the airport and in downtown Great Falls. Prior to trip start, participants should coordinate vehicle rental amongst themselves. Ride and rental car cost sharing are encouraged as we will leave our vehicles at the Virgelle Mercantile for the duration of the float trip.

Airport Shuttles:

Inbound: Motel 6 is our rally location and the motel has a free airport shuttle (2 Treasure State Drive, Great Falls, MT 59404, phone (406) 453-1602).

Outbound: For outbound flights on Day 7, please coordinate your shuttle back to the Great Falls Airport with the leaders and other participants. It is approximately a one hour and 15 minute drive from the Virgelle Mercantile to Great Falls.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until the trip leaders approve your participation on the outing.

Accommodations and Food

While on the river, we will be primitive tent camping in sites with little to no accommodations. We will camp in established campsites but expect there to be limited facilities (i.e. pit toilets and maybe shelter houses) where we camp. Per the Bureau of Land Management permit, we will follow Leave No Trace principles at all times. Participants are expected to volunteer for camp chores on a rotating basis, including collecting firewood, and assisting in meal preparation and clean up. Since we will be traveling during the off-season and during weekdays, we may have the river nearly all to ourselves.

The trip leaders really like to cook and to eat, so count on interesting, varied, and nutritious meals. The first meal provided will be lunch on Day 1 and the last meal provided will be breakfast on Day 7. Pre-trip, the leaders will distribute a tentative menu and solicit input from the participants. Meals may include meats, dairy, and eggs. Speak up! Please discuss food allergies, dietary restrictions, or special requests with the leaders before signing up for by August 1. We will do our best to accommodate vegetarians and medical dietary restrictions but those people with especially challenging food restrictions may be asked to bring or prepare some of their own food. Please contact the leader if you require dietary accommodation.

The leaders will provide stoves, cooking equipment, and other group gear. The leaders will not provide trail snacks, between-meal snacks, or alcohol.

Trip Difficulty

Physically, this could be a moderately difficult trip. Apart from Day 2 (21 miles), most days we will paddle seven to 14 miles per day with frequent breaks. We will be making and breaking camp each day. As a group, we need to cooperatively move gear and canoes into our campsites.

The Missouri River can be a gentle river but it does have a persistent current (approx. two to five mph) with faster currents in certain places (approx. five to seven mph). We face the challenge of picking our way around sandbars, through back channels, and around islands. Experienced and intermediate paddlers may find the paddling easy but beginning or novice paddlers may find it challenging. Basic paddling skills are required and some participants may be asked to take pre-outing canoe instruction classes. 

Participants should have some experience with both canoeing and camping. Participants must be able to manage, with teamwork, a canoe in at least light wind and small waves. Don’t hesitate to ask the leaders for advice or a demonstration of paddle strokes. Initially the leaders will pair paddlers into teams based upon their self-reported skill levels but may adjust those partners during the outing.

We expect wind could be an issue on most days. With consideration of prevailing winds and the sections of the river most susceptible to strong winds, the leaders have built extra time into the itinerary in the event we have to adjust to unfavorable weather and river conditions or to lay-up waiting for winds to subside.

Cell phone coverage will be non-existent or spotty at best.

Although we will do our very best to adhere to the schedule listed above, the itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control. Selection of the final itinerary and paddling route is left up to the discretion of the leaders, and is based upon consideration of each participant’s physical condition, skills and weather conditions. As needed, the leaders will adjust the trip itinerary based on the capabilities and experience of the group. This trip is operated rain or shine, however, the trip may be cancelled in the event of current or imminent flooding conditions. Travel and medical evacuation insurance is recommended and is available through the Sierra Club (see “Notes for Sierra Club Outings” below).

Equipment and Clothing

The leaders will provide a trip guide and a detailed gear list after you are approved for the outing. Prior to sign-up, feel free to ask the leaders for a gear list. The leaders will also provide a list of group gear they are providing, like water bladders, stoves, pots and pans, cooking and water purification equipment and camp tarps. The leaders will have a group first-aid kit and a satellite phone for emergency use only. 

Canoes, paddles, and PFDs are included in the trip cost. Some specialized gear will be required and necessary. You must have a good two-piece waterproof rain suit. You will need to provide tents, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, gear bags, and personal first-aid kit containing extra vision corrective devices, prescription medications, OTC items like Band-Aids, aspirin, ibuprofen, etc. After receiving the trip guide and gear lists and if you have any questions, please contact the trip leaders or discuss it during the Trailhead Talk.

With some advance planning, most gear can be rented on an individual basis or purchased second-hand, like on Ebay. The leaders may have some gear that can be loaned. The canoe outfitter has camping gear available for rent like coolers, canoe seats, dry bags, personal bags, or tents. These are NOT included in the trip price but the leaders can help coordinate these rentals with the canoe outfitter. 

Leaders will consider allowing personal canoes, but not kayaks, but the trip price will remain the same. Check with the leaders first if you want to bring your personal canoe.

The average high/low temperature is 78/47 degrees Fahrenheit with historical record high/low at 99º/33º F. 

In addition to printed maps, the leaders will be using Garmin GPS units. You are welcome to bring your personal GPS unit and the leaders can share their GPS navigation e-files with you.

References

Maps:

• BLM Boater Guide depicting the area between Ft. Benton and Judith Landing River Miles 0-88.5 (one each included in trip price)
• Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument, Montana, http://www.blm.gov/mt/st/en/prog/nlcs_new/UMRB_NM.html
• Upper Missouri River Breaks Boating Guide, http://www.blm.gov/mt/st/en/fo/umrbnm/boatersguide.html

Websites:

• Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Upper_Missouri_River_Breaks_National_Monument
• Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument, Montana, http://www.blm.gov/mt/st/en/prog/nlcs_new/UMRB_NM.html
• Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument Interpretative Center, http://www.blm.gov/mt/st/en/fo/umrbnm/interpcenter.html
• Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, Great Falls: http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/lcnf/recarea/?recid=61458
• Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument Interpretative Center, http://www.fortbentonmuseums.com/interpcenter.html
• Decision Point, Loma, Montana, http://www.visitmt.com/listings/general/national-historic-site/decision-point.html and http://www.travelmt.com/mt_sites_11813_Decision+Point.html
• Ascending Neat Coulee, http://www.greatfallstribune.com/story/outdoors/2016/10/26/ascending-neat-coulee/92709048/

Charles M. Russell Museum, Great Falls

• https://cmrussell.org/

The Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition Online, University of Nebraska-Lincoln's Center for Great Plains Studies (in the order of our route):

• 06/10/1805 Decision Point http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-06-10.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 06/09/1805 Decision Point http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-06-09.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 06/08/1805 Decision Point http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-06-08.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 06/07/1805 Decision Point http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-06-07.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 06/06/1805 Decision Point http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-06-06.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 06/05/1805 Decision Point http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-06-05.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 06/04/1805 Decision Point http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-06-04.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 06/03/1805 Decision Point http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-06-03.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 06/02/1805 Decision Point http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-06-02.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 06/01/1805 Decision Point http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-06-01.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 05/31/1805 Eagle Creek http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-05-31.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 05/30/1805 http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-05-30.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 07/28/1806 http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1806-07-28.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 05/29/1805 Slaughter River http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-05-29.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 07/29/1806 Slaughter River http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1806-07-29.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl
• 05/28/1805 Judith Landing http://lewisandclarkjournals.unl.edu/read/?_xmlsrc=1805-05-28.xml&_xslsrc=LCstyles.xsl

Virgelle Mercantile:

• http://www.virgellemontana.com/
• http://www.virgellemontana.com/BBLodging.htm

Instructional:

• Tandem Canoe Basics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjdlF7Cnr3E
• How to Do a J-Stroke - Canoe Technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=kSOu0jyuqN8&feature=endscreen
• "How Rivers Get Their Curves, The Answer Is Both Simple And Fascinating" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8a3r-cG8Wic

Conservation

The Sierra Club is an environmentally focused entity. We are concerned about conservation and sustainability of resources, both locally and globally. Our work is accomplished by volunteers and aided by a salaried staff to encourage grassroots involvement. Our outings seek to empower participants toward greater understanding, advocacy and participation in the goals of the club. The focus of this trip is to enjoy the wilderness and also to discuss issues relating to the Missouri Breaks and the environment.

The Missouri River is affected by a myriad of complicated environmental concerns, such as: oil and gas piplines; invasive species; water quality; sediment deposition in the reservoirs; use of the river by local, commercial, and recreational interests; the effects of reservoir releases on Missouri River wildlife and habitat; restoration and protection of the riparian buffer; including cottonwood habitat, sandbar habitat and vegetation control; and threatened and endangered species, including the least tern, the piping plover, and the pallid sturgeon. The leaders will promote discussion of these and other topics.

The Friends of the Missouri Breaks is an awesome group with the stated mission: “We protect and preserve the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument by educating the public, advocating for responsible access and environmentally responsible uses, and supporting groups and agencies that protect and restore the Monument.”  One of the Friends’ conservation issues is saving the Missouri River’s cottonwood forests within the Missouri Breaks. Go to http://missouribreaks.org/ to learn more about the Friends and supporting their good work. http://www.greatfallstribune.com/story/outdoors/2016/03/23/young-cottonwoods-planted-save-forests-missouri/82176374/

Per the Bureau of Land Management permit, we will follow Leave No Trace principles at all times. Please take a moment to test your “Leave No Trace” knowledge using the LNT Online Awareness Course.  First take the tutorial at https://lnt.org/learn/online-awareness-course to refresh your LNT awareness. Then take the test! 

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permits obtained from U.S. federal land agencies.