Cirques, Peaks, and Lakes of the Wind River Range, Wyoming

The Trip

"Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity; and that mountain parks and reservations are useful not only as fountains of timber and irrigating rivers, but as fountains of life." -- John Muir

Snowcapped granite peaks soaring into the sky, frothy cascades churning through steep canyons, golden tundra glowing in the late-evening light, deep lakes full of trout, moose grazing, pikas scurrying -- all these sights and more make Wyoming’s Wind River Range a favorite of backcountry enthusiasts. Home to 45 jagged peaks over 13,000 feet and 7 of the 10 largest glaciers in the Lower 48, the Winds intersperse dramatic glacial bowls and cirques with more than 1,300 alpine lakes. 

Our route visits an area that is less visited than areas in the north and south end of the Winds, but is no less beautiful. We will visit the full range of Wind River life zones, from thick lodgepole forests and expansive meadows to sharp granite peaks in the alpine zone above tree line.

Our journey will take us to one dazzling lake after another and into high, glacier-carved bowls along the Continental Divide. We will hike in the shadow of Pronghorn Peak, Mt. Bonneville, Nylon Peak, and other spectacular mountains. 

This trip seeks the route less traveled by backpacking into the central portion of this alpine wonderland and experiencing its charms in relative solitude. True solitude in the wilderness is best found off-trail, so this trip features cross-country segments west of the Continental Divide.

Some exertion and stamina will be required to successfully complete this trip. Participants who are willing to share an exploratory spirit, a positive outlook to (possible) unforeseen challenges, and a willingness to foster group cohesiveness will reap the greatest rewards from this experience.

While Europeans have explored the Winds since the early 1800s, they were not the first to roam this area. We respectfully acknowledge that we are on the traditional territory of the Shoshone and Arapaho peoples, who have inhabited these lands for over 9,000 years. We offer our gratitude to the First Nations for their care for, and teachings about, our earth and our relations. May we honor those teachings.

An early outfitter in the 1930s was Finis Mitchell. He was instrumental in stocking many of the lakes in the Winds with fish. He wrote, "My Pledge to future generations: While here on earth, I shall endeavor with all my ability and steadfast efforts to preserve and add to our wilderness so all who follow in my footsteps might have the same opportunity to use and enjoy it as I have. Remember, the way of wilderness is love and kindness toward all forms of life.” We will be in true wilderness, one of the areas protected in the original 1964 Wilderness Act.

It is our plan and hope that all of you who choose to join us on this trip will enjoy the Wind River Range/Bridger Wilderness as much as we do.

Pre-Trip: We will have an optional pre-trip diner and meeting at a location in Pinedale. For introductions, a trip briefing, and distribution of group gear and food.

Day 1: We will meet early morning in Pinedale to caravan to the Scab Creek Trailhead. The Scab Creek Trailhead is about 27 miles/1 hour southeast of Pinedale, Wyoming. Eighteen miles of this route is along paved roads, while the final nine miles is along good quality gravel roads, suitable for two-wheel drive vehicles. After last-minute fine-tuning we will tighten our boots, hoist on our packs, and begin our journey. We will hike about six miles with about 1,700 feet of gain today to our first campsite at Little Divide Lake.

Day 2: We will continue our hike in a northward direction, crossing expansive meadows and skirting a number of lakes, eventually reaching our campsite at a timberline lake nestled against the higher alpine terrain alongside the Continental Divide. We’ll cover about nine miles on this our longest hiking day, with about 1,500 feet of gain.

Days 3-6: During these days (four to seven miles, 800-1,500 feet of gain/1,000-2,000 feet of loss), we will use a combination of established trails, rough routes, and off-trail hiking, working our way southeast immediately west of the sharp granite peaks of the Continental Divide. We will combine more difficult cross-country travel with less difficult walking across alpine basins to explore cirques above the tree line. If our pace is good, we may have a layover day, which would give us time to explore without our backpacks.

Day 7: From Raid Lake we will continue our hike to Monroe Lake along the Basin Trail, passing back into trees, over a distance of about seven miles with about 800 feet of gain/1,200 feet of loss.

Day 8: For this last day, we will hike along the Lowline Trail, passing by Divide Lake and Little Divide Lakes, and connecting with the Scab Creek Trail to return to the Scab Creek Trailhead. We’ll cover about seven miles today and about 2,000 feet of loss.

Getting There

The nearest airport is Jackson, Wyoming, about 85 miles (2-hour drive) from Pinedale. Salt Lake City, Utah -- with more flights at a lower cost -- is about 250 miles (i.e., a 4- to 5-hour drive). The Great Outdoor Transportation Company (GOTCO) provides pre-arranged shuttle service from the Salt Lake City and Jackson airports to Pinedale as well as from Pinedale to various Wind River trailheads. Ridesharing is strongly encouraged, and a roster of trip members will be sent to approved participants.

Please do not make non-refundable travel arrangements until notified to do so by the trip leader. Because of uncertainties that can occasionally occur (e.g., accidents, weather, etc.) on the last day of the trip, which can cause a longer than normal hiking day, you should not schedule your return flights to depart until the day following the last day of the trip. Note that the leaders will arrive two days early to Pinedale (about 7,200 feet) to help start the acclimatization to altitude.

Accommodations and Food

All meals are included from lunch on day one through lunch on the last day. Trail snacks and hot drinks are not included (although hot water is available at breakfast and dinner). We’ve found that both of these (preferences and amounts) are distinctly individualistic, so we leave it up to the participants to provide their own. Participants are responsible for lodging and meals before and after the trip. 

The menu consists of low-bulk, lightweight foods that are simple to prepare and use a minimum of commissary gear. Generally, we will have hot or cold cereal for breakfast, and dinners will usually be one-pot meals with soup to start and a light dessert to finish. Vegetarians can be accommodated, but more restrictive diets are difficult to accommodate on this trip. Contact the leader prior to sign-up to determine if we can accommodate your specific needs without impacting the group. We provide tablets for participants to treat water. Bear canisters will be used, and all personal snacks and some toiletries (e.g., toothpaste) can fill no more than a one-quart Ziplock bag.

Accommodation and meals in Pinedale are not included in the trip.

Trip Difficulty

Following Leave No Trace ethics, we will do our part in continuing to maintain the Wind River area pristine and as wild as possible. Our route is approximately a 44-mile loop and is rated as “4.5” with a mix of on-trail and off-trail travel. While we will start at about 8,000 feet, often we will be above 10,000 feet. 

Cross-country hiking is more difficult than trail hiking, not only requiring strong aerobic condition, but excellent balance and agility to carry a heavy pack at high altitude and on uneven terrain. You must be in excellent physical condition in order to enjoy this trip safely and not impact the group’s success. You will need to sustain a program of physical conditioning to carry a 40-to-45-pound pack (less is preferred) under these conditions, and the leader will provide suggestions for this. Proper preparation will enhance your wilderness experience. Shared group gear and food will weigh in the range of 12 pounds.

This is a group trip whose success relies upon the cheerful, active contribution and good humor of all participants. You will assist with cooking, cleaning, sanitation, camp set up and break down. We will be following a Leave No Trace ethic in all aspects of our journey.

August in the Winds can be quite pleasant with highs in the 70s and lows in the 30s, but be prepared for extremes and the infamous pesky Wind River mosquitoes. In addition, afternoon thunderstorms, all day rain, and even snow can occur anytime in the Winds, so good quality rain gear is a must. Hiking poles are strongly recommended for difficult stream crossings and rough, steep, boulder-strewn terrain.

Mountain conditions are always unpredictable, and the Wind River Range is no exception. Our itinerary is tentative and subject to change depending on trail conditions, weather, and the abilities of the group. To enjoy this adventure to the fullest, come with a flexible and positive attitude and a good sense of humor.

Equipment and Clothing

The leader will send detailed equipment recommendations to participants well in advance of the trip.

We will use bear canisters for food storage. You will be issued one loaded bear canister which, when combined with your share of the other group items, will bring your total share of group equipment to about 12 pounds at the start of the trip.

You must limit your personal gear to no more than 25 pounds, with 20 pounds being ideal. Your backpack should have a capacity of at least 4,000 cubic inches (65 liters) in order to accommodate commissary and personal gear.

Cross-country travel requires sturdy, durable, well-fitting backpacking boots that fit over your ankle. Leather boots in particular are better able to withstand prolonged abrasion from sharp granite, loose talus, and soaking from streams, mud, and snow.

References

Maps:

• Southern Wind River Range, Earthwalk Press.
• USGS 7.5 minute topo maps:
• Scab Creek
• Raid Lake
• Mt. Bonneville
• Roberts Mountain
• Halls Mountain

Books:

• Kelsey, Joe, Climbing and Hiking Wind River Mountains. Falcon Publishing.
• Pallister, Nancy, Beyond Trails in the Wind River Mountains. Gray Dog Press.

Conservation

The Bridger Wilderness area is permanently protected by Congress, but most of Wyoming's roadless areas have no such legal protection, and logging, drilling, and off-road vehicles continue to threaten them.

We will discuss what wilderness protection means, reasons for protecting more land as wilderness, and the Wilderness Act itself. We'll also discuss the national park system, the pronghorn migration (largest in the lower 48 states), sustainability, the role extractive industries (coal, oil, gas) play in Wyoming's economy, and other issues.

We also invite participants to contribute on topics of their passion. This is optional, but on many trips we have had some wonderful discussions about subjects that individual participants are passionate about.

Sierra Club National Outings is an equal-opportunity provider and when applicable will operate under permit located in the Bridger-Teton National Forest.